Model X arm control disconnects from wheel at low speed

[mxnym]

I've been complaining about the front end/steering for more than a year. Tesla service has always told me everything was okay. Then my control arm snaps. This is not a confidence builder.


I've got both a Chevy and a Cadillac both with substantially more miles and more abuse than my Model-X. While they have both have had lots of work done, the most dangerous failure I've ever had was a blow out. And I knew that was coming. I was just debating on buying new tires, or selling the truck. So while ball joints can go at anytime, only Tesla seems to be having trouble with them. Again, this isn't making me feel like I should put my kids in the model-X or drive it on the highway.

So does anyone have any suggestions for a practical car that won't feel like torture driving after a Model-X? Even just the idea of having to buy gas all the time is making me sick.

The biggest thing I don't love about my wife's VW Atlas is that it's an ICE. However, I don't know if any of the benefits I love it for apply to you.

 

[rb-loudoun]

Thanks for the suggestion.

However, another thought has occurred to me. My Model-X is basically out of warranty. I know speed and lift shots make custom control arms. Does anyone know how hard it would be to get custom control arms made out of something other than aluminum? I would lose a bit of range, but it would more than make up for it in piece of mind. My understanding is a visual inspection can detect the ball joint problems, so I may not need to worry about them as much.

 

[Dr. John]

These failures are basically limited to very low speed, so they are really not a safety concern. Reversing with the wheel cranked all the way over is what puts the most stress on the control arm and that's the most probable mode of failure. It happened many years ago to me when I was driving my SAAB. I learned all about that problem back then. Basic recommendation is not to turn the wheel 100% over when reversing -- back off just a bit and that eliminates the stress on the control arm.

 

[Dr. John]

My 2016 x has done the clunking intermittently for at least 2 years as I back out of my garage and then turn wheel to max for 90 degree turn backwards before turning back to go forward out my driveway. Is the control arm already broken or is it OK and I need to turn less on backing?

 

[AWDtsla]

Wife was parking her car on Main St. Andover, MA, and suddenly she felt the car was rubbing on something and became immobile. After checking, the front passenger wheel was stuck on a 45% direction with entire body frame sitting on it directly (see picture attached). Initially she thought she had flat tire but police quickly came to scene and pointed out that the wheel (front right) was disintegrated with its arm control. This was at very low speed while trying to turn steering wheel to park the car. Driving the car from home to where the incident happened was no problem, there was no sign of issues and suddenly the issue occurred.

We visited Tesla Watertown in MA today. The service manager was polite but pointed out that there was scratches on the rim and he believed that it must be because she scratched a curbside and caused the wheel to disconnect. I insisted on the dealer to inspect the vehicle before drawing any conclusion. Even though rim may be scratched, nobody is expecting the control arm to break free. Moreover, it seems a latent safety issue: you don't know when it will happen because it is not a result of direct impact like an accident, or as the dealer say, scratching rim and right after that, you get a control arm broken free. This is quite bothering because we kept thinking about the vehicle safety issue, it's our family car and we must make sure it's safe to drive. The dealer was still talking about insurance and they don't want to cover the cost because it seems like we did something to the vehicle causing this to happen - we weren't even thinking about the same thing. Getting the issue fixed is one thing, get to the bottom of the incident is another and more important. I will update on what I am hearing back tomorrow from Tesla Watertown.

You know how hard you have to drive into a curb to replicate the damage shown on that wheel? Really really hard. I hit a curb once at around 15 mph, it was so hard I was sure I broke something, I was stunned by the impact. The damage on my wheel was about 1/3rd of what is shown in the second picture. Referring to that damage as "a scratch". Hmmm. Tesla should put on weaker wheels so the wheel breaks before the suspension does.

 

[bushburner]

Recently, (about a week) I have noticed that there is a sort of rattle from the front left wheel when I drive slowly in parking lots and there are bumps. Not sure if this is a precursor sign to the ball joint failing.

I had both my ball joints replaced under warranty. My driver side ball joint was rattling like how you described it. The noise got progressively worse, ranger told me it was safe to drive until the parts came in. He told me it was a common problem with the X. Don't know if you got it addressed yet. Drove it around for a month with it like that.

 

[Tobyw]

From what we can see it appears to have been sheared off. I've broken a few this way. But rock crawling.
As a mechanic I've seen worn out ball joints, but shearing one in a newer street driven vehicle is very rare. Something I have never seen in my days working as a mechanic for a GM dealer.
If the ball joints are failing like this in these cars, they are either undersize or poor quality.

Why the mystery? All you have to do is reverse the ball joint manufacturing process and see where it failed. Ancient Jaguars used to have ball joint repair kits containing a ball stud, two ball seats, a few shims, and a rubber boot to keep the grease in and the weather out. If someone put it together, someone can take it apart and read the entrails.

 

[ricohman]

Why the mystery? All you have to do is reverse the ball joint manufacturing process and see where it failed. Ancient Jaguars used to have ball joint repair kits containing a ball stud, two ball seats, a few shims, and a rubber boot to keep the grease in and the weather out. If someone put it together, someone can take it apart and read the entrails.

I've worked on junk with ball joints so loose that you could move the wheel an inch top and bottom. I have no idea why these would fail like this. Maybe in a collision they would shear.
I have used an EM yoke many times but never on a ball joint as they are simply replaced.
I wonder if Tesla has done random examinations?

 

[snooze]

Another lower control arm failure here....was traveling at 15mph with kids in car. Rear lower control arm failed and wheel is at 45 degree angle. Car is under extended warranty, but Tesla is saying its my fault. No evidence of a hit on any panel or bumper. We live in flat Florida. Estimated price is $5700 with control arm, rear assembly replacement and new wheel. Nuts!

 

[Percy]

Another lower control arm failure here....was traveling at 15mph with kids in car. Rear lower control arm failed and wheel is at 45 degree angle. Car is under extended warranty, but Tesla is saying its my fault. No evidence of a hit on any panel or bumper. We live in flat Florida. Estimated price is $5700 with control arm, rear assembly replacement and new wheel. Nuts!

Casting quality looks impressive!

 

[Hoodoo]

What when that happens at 160 km an hour?

 

[Percy]

What when that happens at 160 km an hour?

Who's going to complain?

 

[CyberShy]

Another lower control arm failure here....was traveling at 15mph with kids in car. Rear lower control arm failed and wheel is at 45 degree angle. Car is under extended warranty, but Tesla is saying its my fault. No evidence of a hit on any panel or bumper. We live in flat Florida. Estimated price is $5700 with control arm, rear assembly replacement and new wheel. Nuts!

This part look under-designed and defective to me.