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Model X Auto Opening and Closing Door Issues

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Anyone having issues with the Model X drivers door auto opening and closing? About 20% of the time the door does not open and the car does not even blink when I approach. Even worse about once a day the door does not close when I walk away. I have reset the car both ways with no effect.

In addition about 10% of the time when you use the touchscreen to open the passenger door, it moves about an inch and makes a horrible clicking noise. Taking it in to the SC next week. Curious if I am the only one with this issue. I'm sure when I take it in they will work fine :( I have recorded videos to prove it just in case.
 
Anyone having issues with the Model X drivers door auto opening and closing? About 20% of the time the door does not open and the car does not even blink when I approach. Even worse about once a day the door does not close when I walk away. I have reset the car both ways with no effect.

In addition about 10% of the time when you use the touchscreen to open the passenger door, it moves about an inch and makes a horrible clicking noise. Taking it in to the SC next week. Curious if I am the only one with this issue. I'm sure when I take it in they will work fine :( I have recorded videos to prove it just in case.

Given the bluetooth nature of the key, the symptoms you describe would make me suspect the battery. It's a CR2354 that should last a year but I think a lot of people not familiar with the care and feeding of battery powered bluetooth LE devices may not be aware that the battery will drain *rapidly* if left in the proximity of the car as at that point the car and the key are communicating nearly constantly.

If you store the key near the car (i.e. on a hook in the garage or not far from the garage somewhere in your house) then it's almost certainly draining significantly while you are at home. Get a Faraday bag (there are some made just for key fobs) for when you put it on the hook to prevent it from talking to the car, which will put it into its lowest power mode which will allow for a 1+ year battery life.

If I'd been tesla I would have put a LiPo in the fob and provided a wireless charger for it... Hmm. That could be an interesting aftermarket accessory....

Peter+
 
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Doubt if its the battery. I only had the car for 3 days and keep the car in an attached garage about 50 feet from the house.

Given the bluetooth nature of the key, the symptoms you describe would make me suspect the battery. It's a CR2354 that should last a year but I think a lot of people not familiar with the care and feeding of battery powered bluetooth LE devices may not be aware that the battery will drain *rapidly* if left in the proximity of the car as at that point the car and the key are communicating nearly constantly.

If you store the key near the car (i.e. on a hook in the garage or not far from the garage somewhere in your house) then it's almost certainly draining significantly while you are at home. Get a Faraday bag (there are some made just for key fobs) for when you put it on the hook to prevent it from talking to the car, which will put it into its lowest power mode which will allow for a 1+ year battery life.

If I'd been tesla I would have put a LiPo in the fob and provided a wireless charger for it... Hmm. That could be an interesting aftermarket accessory....

Peter+
 
Ahh. But who knows how old that "new" battery is? I replaced mine the day I got the car with fresh ones. Never had a problem. And our friend Mr. Vogel just reminded me to replace it now, as I do leave the fob in the garage about 5 ft from the rear of car on the weekends so it won't constantly open and close the 500 times I walk past the car on a Saturday! Thanks!
 
Yeah, I don't even know if the Model X can auto open its charging port from the charge cable button. At any rate, I always have to press the port to open it.

And yeah, I had to get a new battery for my fob too. Drains quickly. Buy a few extra batteries now. It is an unusual kind that you probably won't be able to find at the drugstore. Much thicker than normal coin batteries.

Leaving the key fob in the garage to prevent the door from opening and closing is a good workaround. Having that door open and close constantly while working in the garage is just nuts. Can't the software cool it after the fourth time you walk past it????
 
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I think I saw something in a release note that the charge port auto open is not yet functional in the current firmware release.

That's correct - the button on the HPWC does not open it. Just push on the door and it will pop open. Hopefully in the next software update.

- - - Updated - - -

And yeah, I had to get a new battery for my fob too. Drains quickly. Buy a few extra batteries now. It is an usual kind that you probably won't be able to find at the drugstore. Much thicker than normal coin batteries.

Batteries are available cheap on Amazon: Amazon.com: [ Pack of 10 ] Panasonic CR2354 2354 CR 2354 3V lithium BATTERIES: Industrial Scientific
 
Front Door Calibration

Keeping the doors open too long (manual car wash drying) resulted in no electric motor action for the driver door. The result was a partially latched door that wouldn't open or close. Once the door was opened from the inside, moving the door in either direction took strength. Lots of resistance, but it could be moved.

Nothing I did could get the driver door to work electrically. I tried a scroll wheel (touchscreen) reset, starting the car, locking the car (couldn't lock it) and powering off the car. Nothing worked.

After calling the local service center, they said to recalibrate the front door. While it didn't solve the problem immediately, it could help others with door issues. Here is the process:

From inside the vehicle, do a scroll wheel (touchscreen) reset. Open the door from inside (the manual handle will always release the door). Manually push the door to the full open position, then slowly and deliberately push the door manually closed so that it will latch. Close it slow enough that it takes about 5 to 10 seconds. If the latch pulls the door in, all is working okay.

Since I could not get the door to latch electrically, a Tesla Motors technician drove out from the SC to help. Before he arrived I remembered a trick that the detailer uses to raise the windshield glass. Sure enough, it did the trick to fool the door into action. With the door open, I moved a standard key across the door latch slot to trigger the switch in the latch. Only about 1/4" of the key depth is used as it is drawn though the slot from the side. The touch screen blacked out for a moment, so I knew the switch had been activated.

Once the door latch switch was triggered, the door calibration could be done. I also lowered the glass window and raised it fully to recalibrate the window, since it had stopped working properly. All is working fine now.
 
@Mark Z: I think you mean door window, not "windshield glass". I puzzled over the description for awhile trying to figure out how you raise the windshield.:wink:
@FarmerDave: You are absolutely right! I did mean the door window glass.

With a recent 6" scratch in the Big Sky windshield, getting that professionally repaired is on my mind.

(OT: Too bad my edit time is reduced to hours. There was a time when over 24 hours was given to make corrections.)
 
How did that scratch happen???
Not quite sure.

I need to check the arc of the windshield wiper, could have been a dry swipe with something sharp. The wiper did dry swipe once that day.

May have been something sharp in a microfiber cloth. The window was cleaned after some specks of possible sap were discovered when the sun caused the specks to reflect light.

The professional may have a suggestion about the cause. It is unlike anything I have ever experienced.