If you are using heat in winter (I suppose you're in Bay Area) it won't come down to that level in an X. Do you drive short distances? Then around 400 is normal in winter plus short distance.
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Model X: Average Wh/mile Tracker
- Thread starter MattXowner
- Start date
I live in Southern CA with a plethora of superchargers and use them more than at home charging.
This is an area of my car that I have questions. I’m not a tech guru and don’t understand all the numbers... I’m trying. I have had my X for 6 mos and not happy with the range. I’m not a speedster. I don’t take off fast and I cruise on freeway around 70. I’ve noticed that my range will decrease about 1/3 more then actual miles driven. (Ex I’ll drive 30, but my car range decreases 45). I’ve been watching the energy consumption and the average is usually around 360-370. I’m told I should be at 311.... way off. Not sure how to get it lower. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What model and wheels do you have? 360 is really not that bad, but it depends a lot on the weather. in the summer I can get down around 300 or even less. But in cold weather, maybe double that.
Honestly, I would not obsess over the indicated range. All it is, is a relative indication of how full the "tank" is. It has nothing to do with actual range (use the energy graph for that if it really important for your circumstances). I would suggest switching your car to show % instead. 0 to 100% is a whole lot easier to manage mentally.
piyu7444
Member
What year is your MX? I have had MX for just 1 month and so far I am getting close to 200 in a single charge. I am yet to take it out for a long trip.
Bigriver
Member
Your stated Wh/mile and number of miles isn’t as alarming to me as the length of time you are reporting for your charge. Not all chargers are the same, so I assume you must not be at superchargers are you in a situation where you have always been sharing (like at 1A while someone else is at 1B)? What are the amps and kWs shown while charging?
Bigriver
Member
200 miles? And are you a 75D or 100D? What are you counting as a single charge, as im sure it’s not from 100% to 0% state of charge.
piyu7444
Member
The EPA estimate (which is what the distance display on battery remaining in the IC means in the USA) is based off of specific testing under specific conditions. It does not include going 70 miles per hour at all. Going faster increases drag and reduces range. This was most likely true in your previous vehicle as well, but you probably didn't check your MPG every time you filled up to see that it was always lower than the EPA estimate. It also probably wasn't as relevant, because your previous vehicle probably didn't advertise its range, so unless you went out of your way to calculate that range, you had no reason to feel that the full tank of fuel should take you further than it was. There are some neat charts about how much speed affects range, and I believe there are also some regarding time cost to charge vs time cost to drive slower and increase range. I believe some of this is discussed in detail somewhere on TMC, but I don't have any links handy.
That sound about right, there is nothing wrong with your car. In summer my 100-0% range on our 75D X at 70mph around 210-220 miles, in winter that figure is around 160-180 miles. Clearly your not going to be aiming to arrive at a charger with 0%, and also unlikely to charge to 100%, so 160 miles between stops is quite normal. With a 100D X your get another 30-40 miles but not world changing.
Luckily I live in England, and 150 miles of driving gets me pretty much to any where I need to go, so rarely if ever have to stop to recharge and even than at most its 1 stop which can be timed with food. If I was living in the US, where you can literally drive for days I would have gone for a 100D S or LR Model 3.
I usually go to the super charges in San Juan cap or San Clemente. i noticed when i first plugged in it said 90 min and my battery showed 23% avail. After about five min it jumped up really high. Then someone plugged into 3A and it dropped very low to 23! I called Tesla support because i thought something was wrong with my car. The women looked it up and told me it would take 110 min to fully charge because it was split between 3a and 3b. the problem is that the sign says you can only charge for 30 min. That gave me very little. I couldn't charge it enough for my sun to take it to LA that night for a concert. He was very upset because they had 6 people and now had to take 2 cars.
Actually i did chick the MPG every time i filled up. My car was right on at 14...yeah it was a Lexus LX470 8 passanger gas HOG!!
You sure about that? I've seen some 40-minute limit signs on the Bay Area superchargers because they're so massively beyond their capacity almost continuously, but the only 30-minute signs I've ever seen say "30 minutes general parking", i.e. 30 minutes if you are in a non-Tesla and using it as a normal parking place.
While certainly unintentional, you may have missed my finer points:
- Did you compare that 14MPG to the EPA estimate?
- Did you calculate your MPG (actually check it vs gasoline purchased as opposed to looking at the number shown in the dash and resetting it)?
I had to assume that 311 Wh/mi is the highway rating to do that math. In my AP2.5 2017 X100D, the rated line is at roughly 337.5 Wh/mi, and according to fueleconomy.gov, a 2018 X75D has a combined rating of 360 (which is much closer to your experience) while the 2018 X100D combined rating is 390. Presumably the rated line on the consumption chart (which might be around 311 on the X75D, I wouldn't know) is the highway rating, which would further validate my example comparison in the previous paragraph.
I haven't had my X for very long but one thing that is already emerging is that apparently one way to get better mileage is to take longer trips.View attachment 371501 The reason for this lies in the aptly named "Departure Tax".
Here's the details of one from this morning.
The car sat in the unheated garage over night. As soon as I got close it turned on the heat and opened the door. I sat in it for a while listening to the radio and planning trips etc. in simulation of what one might do when actually leaving the house or a motel in the morning. Note that the load rose pretty steadily for the first minute, oscillated around 5 kW for a minute or so (after which the car was comfortably warm inside) and the slowly declined thereafter. The average power drawn over this 6.5 minute period was 3.69 kW and the total energy used 402 wH. For this experiment this power was drawn from the wall but if you did what I did disconnected from the wall the 402 wH would come out of your battery. If you run 5 miles to the shops that 402 amounts to 80 wH per mile. If traction is using 320 wH/mi your trip indicator will tell you at arrival that your consumption was 400 wH/mi. But if you went 10 miles it would report 360 and for a 20 mile trip 340. Etc.
Thus the first tip for better consumption numbers is: Don't pay the departure tax from the battery. Pay it from the charger. Of course this may not be possible if you are returning from a plane trip or departing a motel on a frosty morning.
Note that the heater appears to want about 1.8 kW or 1.8 kW/hr per hour in the steady state. If you go 60 mph then in an hour you travel 60 mi and use 1800 Whr for 1800/60 = 30 Wh/mi to be added to whatever the traction system is using. This depends, of course, on how cold it is. In very cold climates the heater may draw more and in warmer less.
The other things have been stated dozens of times before.
•Make sure tires are properly inflated
•Avoid, where possible, wet pavement, snow, gravel, mud
•Don't carry your barbells with you unless you need them
•Slow down but..
*Avoid stop and go and/or traffic that will have you below the sweet spot (30-40 mpH)
•If the battery is cold it won't accept full regeneration so try to manage your stops such that brake use is minimized and you use all the regen that's available to you until the battery warms up.
•Avoid rapid acceleration
•Avoid headwinds and exploit tail winds if you can.
•In cold weather travel during the daytime when temperatures are warmest (lowers heater requirement and minimizes drag)
•Other things I can't think of at the moment.
For comparison to others results: I've gone 536 mi since delivery at an average of 349 wH/mi.
Note from the first chart that there is tremendous variability in the achieved performance for short trips. This depends on traffic conditions, whether you are demonstrating the neck snapping acceleration, departure tax, road conditions...
I find this suggestion rather amusing. First off, if your emulation of what one does in the vehicle is activity that occurs PRIOR to pushing the brake pedal to turn on the car, that energy consumption wouldn't count toward the Wh/mi (while it would technically still come from the battery and reduce range). However, even if I assume that your intention was to emulate what people do at the beginning of a drive (and distill those numbers from the additional energy consumed by actual driving), it is still over-simplified and/or off-point.
It actually reminds me of an argument I once witnessed in another forum where someone insisted that the MPG estimator in their vehicle was wrong if they reset it when they filled the tank instead of after they were up to speed on the highway. I don't know whether they refused to believe that starting the engine and accelerating from 0 used more fuel (energy) than maintaining speed on the highway or refused to understand that the high consumption showing would be brief because it had no previous data to average out against, but it was impossible to convince this person that the MPG estimator was actually accurate for the full tank if reset when refilling. This person also refused to use a calculator and figure against the actual fuel required to fill the tank, so there was obviously no point in arguing with them.
Back on the topic of your post being over-simplified and/or off-point, here are the biggest problems I have with this analysis:
- You don't ALAWYS use heat or even A/C, so while these numbers can be involved in "departure tax" they won't always be.
- Heat, A/C, and other accessories use Wh/h, not Wh/mi, so more miles isn't automatically going to lead to a better rating, because sitting in traffic is still using those Wh/h and averaging them back into the counted miles.
- To said second point above, you seem to be acting like BEV is different than an ICEV, when in realty, they aren't. This concept is even reflected in EPA efficiency estimates, highway mileage (Wh/mi is a measure of mileage, just like MPG and L/100kM) is better than city mileage (H/PEV being an exception because the benefits provided have a stronger effect on city mileage).
- While some of what you are classifying as "departure tax" is more prevalent at the beginning of a trip, most of it is not. The fact of the matter is that accelerating takes a lot of energy (and the amount of energy required for a given acceleration increases at a higher rate than the speed of said acceleration).
- To illustrate this point and tie the story from my previous paragraph into the topic, if you were to stop halfway through a drive and actually turn your Tesla off and back on (to Car Off state and then back into "PRNDS" state to reset the figures, not recommended, potentially unsafe [although it may be able to do something similar with the trip meters]), you would find out that the initial Wh/mi would still be bad from that acceleration even though the "start of trip" factors were already leveled off.
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