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Model X door handle issue

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Hi all
I’m wondering if someone can help with a model X door handle issue. I have searched the internet but all I can find is info on the model S door handles.
My Model X drivers door when pressing the handle it clicks and then pops half way open (unlatched) and then I hear a motor like sound and then a couple seconds later the door unlatches the remainder of the way so I can then open it. Pass front door is fine. It’s just on the drivers door. Does anyone have any info on the components and how they work? Or a video of a model x door handle tear down or something? I’ve been to Tesla but they just say to replace both front door handles for $1,000 with Gen 2 handles. I’m sure it’s just a simple small part that needs replaced or adjusted. Mine are Gen 1 handles. I can try and upload a video tomorrow when it’s light out if that would help.
Your help is appreciated. Thanks
 
I had that same pop-motor-pause-open on handles replaced in 2016. Driver’s side often, passenger’s very rarely. Worse when cold or wet, not all the time. Upgraded to latest handles which feel smoother/easier and the open is instant, smooth, and silent.
 
Hi all
I’m wondering if someone can help with a model X door handle issue. I have searched the internet but all I can find is info on the model S door handles.
My Model X drivers door when pressing the handle it clicks and then pops half way open (unlatched) and then I hear a motor like sound and then a couple seconds later the door unlatches the remainder of the way so I can then open it. Pass front door is fine. It’s just on the drivers door. Does anyone have any info on the components and how they work? Or a video of a model x door handle tear down or something? I’ve been to Tesla but they just say to replace both front door handles for $1,000 with Gen 2 handles. I’m sure it’s just a simple small part that needs replaced or adjusted. Mine are Gen 1 handles. I can try and upload a video tomorrow when it’s light out if that would help.
Your help is appreciated. Thanks
I have this same issue. It shouldn't have anything to do with the actual push handle. That just initiates a series of complex events. I have been trouble shooting mine for a week or so and come to some conclusions. First here is the list of the mechanisms involved.
  • Door handle - Just initiates all actions with a press. But of course, there are many initiations. If any other initiation results in the same problem, it is not the handle. For instance, if you double tap the top of your remote and the door exhibits the same problem, you can rule out the door handle.
  • Locking latch - This is a restricted part for some reason and is hard to find. it controls the locking of the door.
  • Door drive unit - This opens the door during the auto present feature.
  • Door latch - This is the physical latch that releases the door and pulls it in on hard and soft close.
  • Door pop actuator - This is the unit that pushes the door if for some reason it doesn't fully open on initiation. This is the motor like sound you are hearing because the door didn't fully open. It is also called an ice breaker because this unit usually is needed when doors are frozen shut and need a push to break the ice.
My problems seems very similar or the same. I get a pop (door opens just a bit then seems to stop), then I hear another click about a second later with a simultaneous motor sound (which is the pop actuator pushing the door open fully), then the drive unit takes over and opens the door to the fully open position (auto present).

I replaced the door latch this weekend with no luck. It did not fix the problem. I found a youtube video from a person who had a similar problem. The mobile tech replaced the locking latch which he shows a picture of. Here is a picture tesla model x DOOR LOCK LATCH left FRONT | eBay .

I am starting to think it is the door locking latch. I am thinking that the door latch tries to unlatch and is stopped momentarily by the locking latch. Then it unlocks (the second click) while the pop actuator opens the door. I am going to look into this next. My only issue is there is no videos or online procedure to work on it myself.

If anyone has any information on dyi replacement of the locking latch, please share.
 
I have this same issue. It shouldn't have anything to do with the actual push handle. That just initiates a series of complex events. I have been trouble shooting mine for a week or so and come to some conclusions. First here is the list of the mechanisms involved.
  • Door handle - Just initiates all actions with a press. But of course, there are many initiations. If any other initiation results in the same problem, it is not the handle. For instance, if you double tap the top of your remote and the door exhibits the same problem, you can rule out the door handle.
  • Locking latch - This is a restricted part for some reason and is hard to find. it controls the locking of the door.
  • Door drive unit - This opens the door during the auto present feature.
  • Door latch - This is the physical latch that releases the door and pulls it in on hard and soft close.
  • Door pop actuator - This is the unit that pushes the door if for some reason it doesn't fully open on initiation. This is the motor like sound you are hearing because the door didn't fully open. It is also called an ice breaker because this unit usually is needed when doors are frozen shut and need a push to break the ice.
My problems seems very similar or the same. I get a pop (door opens just a bit then seems to stop), then I hear another click about a second later with a simultaneous motor sound (which is the pop actuator pushing the door open fully), then the drive unit takes over and opens the door to the fully open position (auto present).

I replaced the door latch this weekend with no luck. It did not fix the problem. I found a youtube video from a person who had a similar problem. The mobile tech replaced the locking latch which he shows a picture of. Here is a picture tesla model x DOOR LOCK LATCH left FRONT | eBay .

I am starting to think it is the door locking latch. I am thinking that the door latch tries to unlatch and is stopped momentarily by the locking latch. Then it unlocks (the second click) while the pop actuator opens the door. I am going to look into this next. My only issue is there is no videos or online procedure to work on it myself.

If anyone has any information on dyi replacement of the locking latch, please share.

Thank you for the reply with the all the info detailing the components and how they work. Is yours a 2016 as well? Sounds like you are having the exact same issue as I am. DIY videos of model X door lock replacement don’t seam to exist. I’ve spent a lot of time looking. When you move onto step 2 with yours can you please let me know the results? Perhaps take some pictures and a video if you can. It would be greatly appreciated.
 
I just had my drivers door fixed. Same issue. See the invoice attached
 

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Thank you for the reply with the all the info detailing the components and how they work. Is yours a 2016 as well? Sounds like you are having the exact same issue as I am. DIY videos of model X door lock replacement don’t seam to exist. I’ve spent a lot of time looking. When you move onto step 2 with yours can you please let me know the results? Perhaps take some pictures and a video if you can. It would be greatly appreciated.
I have a late 2016. I did some more tinkering and researching last night. So, I believe the door locking latch is a replacement to the current latch in my car. I must have an old version. It looks like this latch TESLA MODEL X DOOR LATCH LOCK LEFT FRONT 2016 2017 2018 2019 1084918-00-G OEM | eBay was replaced by this latch tesla model x DOOR LOCK LATCH left FRONT | eBay (teslamotorsclub.com). They are completely different and is clearly an update we don't have. I wouldn't even know where to begin on the newer latch to replace it. Much more complex mechanism. I couldn't find any information on how to update.

With that said, I continued my research and found a video on a misaligned door and how to bring it back to alignment. So, I tinkered around with that thought and found I could make the door work with a bit of pressure pulling out on the bottom of the door. After four years the door might have slightly got out of alignment.

Give this a try. I opened my FWD to get it out of the way and expose the front door. While the front door is closed I slightly forced my fingers between the A-frame and bottom of the door applying a slight force outward. Then, I push the door handle and the door opens normally. To confirm this assessment, I taped a good sized piece of foam at the same location where I applied the force with my fingers. It works every time. I had to play around a bit to get the right amount of pressure for it to work. With some more research I emulated the door torque procedure that the door alignment video demonstrated, except I torqued the bottom of the door inward and the top outward. This seemed to solve the problem.

I am sure the new latch probably applies a bit more force and overcomes any slight misalignments. But, what I discovered might be a good cheap alternative.
 
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Hi Jillmark99,

I don't know if you have fixed your door latch lock problem yet or not.
I had a very similar repair done to my 2018 Model X yesterday.
I may be able to supplement and clarify some of the information @rush6410 provided above...

Part 1084918-00-G Door latch lock front left is a part with a long cable that
looks like a motorcycle throttle cable. It has a small cylinder on the end of the cable.

Part 1115332-90-A Door lock release actuator LH
Has a small motor that pulls on the cable on the part above.
This is a fairly frequently replaced part.
If this does not act quickly enough the door will not open properly...

Part 1045351-00-H Front Door Drive Unit (LH)
This is the actual motor that opens and closes the door.
It is connected to the silver metal link you can see at the hinge of your door.
This is not a frequently replaced part...

The door lock release actuator is a key to the process...
If you cannot buy a LH unit, buy a RH unit and you can reverse the
"eye" on top of the unit and that will make it a LH unit...

Good luck,

Shawn
 
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Part 1115332-90-A Door lock release actuator LH
Has a small motor that pulls on the cable on the part above.
This is a fairly frequently replaced part.
If this does not act quickly enough the door will not open properly...
Thank you Shawn. The part you mentioned is only available as part of the upgraded latch pictured here TESLA MODEL X DOOR LOCK LATCH LEFT FRONT 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 1126199-00-A | eBay. Unfortunately I have the older unit which does not have the part that was replaced on your 2018 model.

On a side note, my window regulator went out about the same time and I will be replacing that unit after the holidays. I am wondering if the two issue are related. If the window does not detect as going down a bit, will the latch not unlatch immediately.

Here is the retrofit kit that has the part that was replaced on your. I do not have this latch assembly. Genuine Tesla 1446159-00-C Door Latch LH & RH Retrofit Service Kit | eBay
 
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Hi @rush6410,

These cars can be complicated...
I hoped that @Jillmark99 's car would be a 2019 from her profile creation date.

My car was made just before they put the premium upgrade package (PUP) on all X cars.

The window regulator can be troublesome...
A part that might be on your car involved in the door opening sequence
is the latch actuator 1115332-90-A mentioned above.
It has a tiny motor and a spiral screw that translates the motion to "pull"
on the latch cable.
If this unit slows down - the opening sequence of the door fails...
Your car should have this part...

Good luck getting yours fixed,

Shawn
 
Hi @ShawnA,

Thank you for your response and insight.

Both @Jillmark99 and I have the same year and generation of the latch which is a complete overhaul of the mechanism starting in 2017 (Kiekert). The 2016's have a Chevalier latch. The retrofit kit that I posted above upgrades the Chevalier to Kiekert. Basically a complete overhaul of the locking and latch mechanisms. The actuator you are referring to above does not exist with the Chevalier latch mechanism. So, it is a bit different. I wished it was the same. I already replaced the Chevalier latch and didn't help. I believe the mechanical mechanisms with the Kiekert assembly is electronically controlled with the Chavalier assembly. My assumption is the door controller electronically uses the mechanics of the window regulator and Chavalier latch to time all the actions. Since my regulator has failed, I am hoping the window regulator will solve the latch issues.
 
@Jillmark99,

I have a conclusion to my issue. I replaced the window regulator which happened to be on the fritz followed by complete failure around the same time I was having the latching issues. The window because of the regulator failure misaligned. That caused the timing issues with door opening. Once I replaced the regulator and aligned the window my door opening problems went away. Opens smoothly and every time now. With the new regulator installed, I was still able to replicate the door opening issues as I detailed previously. The issues occur when the window is tilted or misaligned.
 
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Hi @rush6410 ,

Thank you for your comments and solution...
My auto door opening continues to perform erratically,
even after the replacement of the latch parts.

In my garage sometimes I show an obstruction (the wall) on the
driver's side of the car. Sometimes not...
This may affect how far the car determines to open the door.

When I find myself in warmer weather, I will experiment with the
window lowered to see if I get better consistency of the door opening.

Thanks again,

Shawn
 
@Jillmark99,

I have a conclusion to my issue. I replaced the window regulator which happened to be on the fritz followed by complete failure around the same time I was having the latching issues. The window because of the regulator failure misaligned. That caused the timing issues with door opening. Once I replaced the regulator and aligned the window my door opening problems went away. Opens smoothly and every time now. With the new regulator installed, I was still able to replicate the door opening issues as I detailed previously. The issues occur when the window is tilted or misaligned.
Nice to see you were able to come to a conclusion. I really appreciate all of your, and everyone’s, contributions to this thread.
I have not had any free time to mess around with mine like I hoped I would. Hoping I can get to it in the somewhat near future. not driving it much due to the lockdown so hasn’t been much of an issue lately.