Model X door handle issue

[rush6410]

Problem identified (for real this time, parts on order)

Ok...I was still having the same issues even after the window regulator replacement. So, one has nothing to do with the other. To repeat the issue I am seeing: When I initiate door open from any of the door open initiations (door handle, MCU, FOB) the door starts to open with a door latch cycle, the door stops at the ajar position with latch still in the latched position, then the ice breaker pushes the door along with another latch cycle finally opening the door.

I continued my troubleshooting this weekend. I removed the latch thinking it must be the issue even though I replaced it with a used one. I opened it up as detailed in my pics. There was a broken piece inside the latch case. It was a teflon part that was broken. This piece must be the culprit. As I stated before, I replaced the latch earlier, but with a used one off ebay. It also was presenting the same issue but less frequently (works about 25% of the time). My observation is that the teflon piece in with all the metal gears gets worn out over time or breaks. Worn out probably is the intermittent working scenario. Broke is the never works scenario which the two latches I used presented. In either case they presented the identical fault hence my conclusion it must be the latch. So, with that being said, I am ordering a new latch directly from Tesla assuming the teflon piece would be brand new and in working condition. It is obvious this piece is meant to be the first point of failure in the latch case.

I will give another update when I replace with a new latch (not a used).

 

[Jillmark99]

@rush6410 is that 2nd picture the backside of the push button “handle” for the drivers door? what was the difficulty in removing it? I have to go to Tesla tomorrow to grab a part for something else. I can ask them about this. Maybe I can buy one too while I’m there.
You have really dove into this project. Thanks for all of your replies. Your troubleshooting is great. Unfortunately I haven’t had the time to look at mine.

 

[rush6410]

@rush6410 is that 2nd picture the backside of the push button “handle” for the drivers door? what was the difficulty in removing it? I have to go to Tesla tomorrow to grab a part for something else. I can ask them about this. Maybe I can buy one too while I’m there.
You have really dove into this project. Thanks for all of your replies. Your troubleshooting is great. Unfortunately I haven’t had the time to look at mine.

It is a stand alone part. The handle is just above it. The Icebreaker (actuator) is in between them. I am having them ship me the part. So, it might be a week or so for me.

The replacement is medium difficulty. You have to first remove the door panel. Then the black inner door cover (closeout panel). If you reach in to the left you will see the latch. Remove the wire connector and the three screws on the outside. Take a look at this video to remove the panel. Tesla Model X Door Panel Removal | How To - YouTube.

 

[Sandiegodoug]

My x doing exactly same thing. Ranger coming out today, I will show him your picture

 

[rush6410]

Update. Tesla does not sell the pre retrofit door latches. My only option is to have the retrofit kit done for the new latches. They quoted me $860 for both doors. The kit looks like this Genuine Tesla 1446159-00-C Door Latch LH & RH Retrofit Service Kit | eBay. Pretty extensive overhaul. So, I am having it done Wednesday along with a MCU1 to MCU2 upgrade. I am lucky because they just dropped the price for the infortainment upgrade from $2500 to $1500.

 

[CuriousM3]

Mine does the same thing, more and more nowadays, it all started when they replaced the inner belt molding, then it never worked right after. Since then we had the drive motor replaced, the pop actuator replace, still no dice. The door still pops open then the stupid ice breaker comes out and pushes the door more open. Its intermittent so whatever is failing is on its way out.

And if your door is having this issue make sure it shuts all the way. I left it ajar today by accident as i was getting the mail and the car thought the door was locked and would not open when pressing the door handle or key fob. I had to push the door close then try to lock it so the door would suck in shut then try and reopen the door.

 

[Sandiegodoug]

Mine is fixed. Ranger replaced part in about 10 minutes. Said part and labor 70. Mine still under warentee for 5 months. Works perfectly now.

 

[rush6410]

Mine is fixed. Ranger replaced part in about 10 minutes. Said part and labor 70. Mine still under warentee for 5 months. Works perfectly now.

I would assume you have the latest latching system.

 

[Sandiegodoug]

Mine 6/17 delivery

 

[ShawnA]

Hi @Sandiegodoug ,

Would you please add the part numbers that were replaced?
This thread can become a resource for part numbers used in repairing
door opening and door latching problems.

Thank You,

Shawn

 

[Sandiegodoug]

Please send a ranger. Makes noise, screen shows open but nothing happens
Verified customer concern. Replaced LH Front Door E Release Actuator. Verified Proper Operation.
Correction: Actuator - E Release - Door - Front - LH (Remove & Replace)
Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity
MX, FR DR E RELEASE ACTUATOR, LH(1115332-00-B) 1.0
Pa

 

[Sandiegodoug]

Concern: Customer States: Remote App access is not working
Verified customer concern. Determined that the MCU was upgraded to MCU2. Possible remote security access was not
reprogrammed on new MCU2. Performed remote security

did this too after I was told via on line that it was my iPhone causing issues. Works perfectly now

 

[ShawnA]

Hi @Sandiegodoug ,

Thank you for the part number.
That was one of the parts replaced on mine...
It's a ballet of intricate timing - If that release actuator
does not pull the pin before the motor actuates to open
the door, there is a partial opening of the door.
It does not open to the partial position and certainly
not fully open if the release actuator is slow...

My mobile tech left the dead part with me and I can feel
the drag on the bad actuator.

Shawn

 

[Sandiegodoug]

He checked the other side, but was ok. I asked if he could replace failed part, but he said must fail. Only 70 bucks for ranger to come out and replace.

 

[Jillmark99]

Problem identified (for real this time, parts on order)

Ok...I was still having the same issues even after the window regulator replacement. So, one has nothing to do with the other. To repeat the issue I am seeing: When I initiate door open from any of the door open initiations (door handle, MCU, FOB) the door starts to open with a door latch cycle, the door stops at the ajar position with latch still in the latched position, then the ice breaker pushes the door along with another latch cycle finally opening the door.

I continued my troubleshooting this weekend. I removed the latch thinking it must be the issue even though I replaced it with a used one. I opened it up as detailed in my pics. There was a broken piece inside the latch case. It was a teflon part that was broken. This piece must be the culprit. As I stated before, I replaced the latch earlier, but with a used one off ebay. It also was presenting the same issue but less frequently (works about 25% of the time). My observation is that the teflon piece in with all the metal gears gets worn out over time or breaks. Worn out probably is the intermittent working scenario. Broke is the never works scenario which the two latches I used presented. In either case they presented the identical fault hence my conclusion it must be the latch. So, with that being said, I am ordering a new latch directly from Tesla assuming the teflon piece would be brand new and in working condition. It is obvious this piece is meant to be the first point of failure in the latch case.

I will give another update when I replace with a new latch (not a used).
View attachment 628611
View attachment 628612

@rush6410
Now that I have the Gen3 retrofit complete in my X I figured I would open up my problematic latch and see if it was the same issue as yours. The teflon piece in my latch was actually ok unlike yours which was broken. Not exactly sure what the issue was with mine. Attached are 3 pictures of the inside of my drivers door latch.

 

[krazineurons]

My X is out of warranty and I have a similar issue. In my case the door remains glued to the car and I have to push it hard to open out. I hear the ice breaker sound and can see it physically going inside but am not sure if that is normal behavior every open sequence. Mine is also X built in 2016 and service is quoting to replace both side latches around $860 (including labor).

2 questions
1) Can I fix this issue myself?
2) What parts may need addressing?

 

[marsh1n]

My X is out of warranty and I have a similar issue. In my case the door remains glued to the car and I have to push it hard to open out. I hear the ice breaker sound and can see it physically going inside but am not sure if that is normal behavior every open sequence. Mine is also X built in 2016 and service is quoting to replace both side latches around $860 (including labor).

2 questions
1) Can I fix this issue myself?
2) What parts may need addressing?

Any update on what you did in this situation?

 

[rajbsn]

I'm having the same issue with my MX and the drive side door won't t open from outside and show open on the display.

 

[m5james]

I'm having the same issue with my MX and the drive side door won't t open from outside and show open on the display.

Does the door still crack the window and try to push itself open, fail and then give up...but still opens from the inside? If so, it's a simple $13 actuator you can get from Tesla...look on YouTube to remove the door panel and get to the actuator, it's in the middle of the door and you'll be able to see it trying to work. Give it some help pulling the cable and if it opens, there's the issue.

 

[rajbsn]

Does the door still crack the window and try to push itself open, fail and then give up...but still opens from the inside? If so, it's a simple $13 actuator you can get from Tesla...look on YouTube to remove the door panel and get to the actuator, it's in the middle of the door and you'll be able to see it trying to work. Give it some help pulling the cable and if it opens, there's the issue.

Yes it still Crack the window and try to push itself. Actually had the issue for couple of days and then it started working again. Now the problem is permanent. I saw the door panel removal videos and called the SC for part price. But I was told to schedule an appointment to find the service details and the parts quote. I'm waiting on my service quote and will update here soon.