Model X noticeable changes from 2016 to now?

[Tes La Ferrari]

@Tes La Ferrari ..look for > mid 2017 build and u will be fine ..the only possible thing that is ok from older models is active spoiler ..but the implementation of that was horrible ie scratched paint etc until service center adjusted

You are probably right about mid 2017+. I'm going to take a look at some late 16's to compare to some newer ones to see if I can notice a difference.

 

[r0xx0r]

Did your FWD's always slam hard ? or was it a one time thing that caused damage that required the bodyshop visit ?

Also do you know if they replaced the FWD's as a retrofit, or do you think it was just something inside them or adding sensors ? ...and is the FWD blind area less now, and are you happy withe FWD's since you had your retrofit ?

That is a well known FWD door problem. It always slammed hard cause the paint inside scratched.

I know they replaced sensors & the pinch points are shorter.

 

[mattack4000]

Maybe I am the only one, but a spoiler less Model X reminds me of the green shell from Mario

 

[Peteski]

200 miles on a 75D is gonna be cutting it close. I have a 90D and even with 20" wheels, driving in 75-80mph California traffic I struggled to get 200 miles on a full charge. That said, driving even a little slower (e.g. 65-70mph) makes a huge difference and you might get 200 miles if you watch your Wh/mile closely (I think wk057 said 327Wh/mile is the target for rated range for 75D and 90D). 22" wheels knock off about 10-20% range, but IMO, most of that loss occurs at city driving speeds and higher highway speeds. Lately in warm weather while cruising at 65-70mph I've been able to get my 90D with 22" wheels down to under 350Wh/mile.

+1 I haven't done any long trips, but on shorter trips at 75-80 mph I'm lucky to dip below 400 Wh/mile and in the winter it's more like 450-500 Wh/mile! So I think you would have to make a conscious effort to realise a 200 mile range i.e. drive a bit slower and in colder weather it may not be very practical. It doesn't bother me because I don't need anything like a 200 mile range, but if I did I'd get a 100D.

 

[Peteski]

I think the general build quality has improved significantly on later cars. The first showroom car I viewed in mid 2017 had pretty poor fit and finish and that put me off buying one at the time. Simple things like door shut-lines and the front headlight fit was terrible. The finish and sealing around the FWD shuts looked "homemade" too. I discussed this with the SC guys and they said that newer cars were coming through in much better shape and when I tested another car in September 2017 it was indeed much better built.

Now a lot of these build quality issues can be resolved in the SC, so a well sorted early car could be just fine, especially if later parts are retro-fitted in the problem areas. But I would look very very closely before buying any used Model X and would want to go through it's service history with a fine tooth comb! A brand new car not so much. Mine was delivered in Feb 18 in pretty decent shape - just a couple of trivial quality niggles to be resolved.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

I think the general build quality has improved significantly on later cars. The first showroom car I viewed in mid 2017 had pretty poor fit and finish and that put me off buying one at the time. Simple things like door shut-lines and the front headlight fit was terrible. The finish and sealing around the FWD shuts looked "homemade" too. I discussed this with the SC guys and they said that newer cars were coming through in much better shape and when I tested another car in September 2017 it was indeed much better built.

Now a lot of these build quality issues can be resolved in the SC, so a well sorted early car could be just fine, especially if later parts are retro-fitted in the problem areas. But I would look very very closely before buying any used Model X and would want to go through it's service history with a fine tooth comb! A brand new car not so much. Mine was delivered in Feb 18 in pretty decent shape - just a couple of trivial quality niggles to be resolved.

I think you are likely right on this. I am going to be looking at a few late 16s and comparing them to some mid to late 17s. If all of the issues have been sorted, and there is a sufficient delta in pricing on the 16s, I’d consider one over a 17.

In addition to what’s already been listed before are there specific parts of the FWDs and ( other parts of the vehicle too ) that I should pay close attention to to determine whether the issues have been sorted ?

 

[Peteybabes]

I think you are likely right on this. I am going to be looking at a few late 16s and comparing them to some mid to late 17s. If all of the issues have been sorted, and there is a sufficient delta in pricing on the 16s, I’d consider one over a 17.

In addition to what’s already been listed before are there specific parts of the FWDs and ( other parts of the vehicle too ) that I should pay close attention to to determine whether the issues have been sorted ?

if you want an incredible lease deal for a 2016 P90D let me know.

the door latches will be upgraded soon, along with a new windshield, and the FWD switches have already been upgraded to the more intuitive design.

 

[Peteski]

I think you are likely right on this. I am going to be looking at a few late 16s and comparing them to some mid to late 17s. If all of the issues have been sorted, and there is a sufficient delta in pricing on the 16s, I’d consider one over a 17.

In addition to what’s already been listed before are there specific parts of the FWDs and ( other parts of the vehicle too ) that I should pay close attention to to determine whether the issues have been sorted ?

That’s a tricky question as there have been so many updates to the door parts and sensors along the way. Things to look out for are evidence of rubbing on the inside of the door posts and wheelarch where the FWDs close. Also pay attention to the door alignment on the outside. Any sign of significant misalignment and/or rubbing would suggest it hasn’t been fully sorted. Also listen out for creaking and popping noises when the FWDs open and close. It should all be smooth and silent apart from the whir of the door motors. Check panel gaps in general, especially around the front light clusters, I’ve seen some bad examples in that area with the light clusters sticking out at the rear side edge. Check the front hood is not dented from a careless owner pressing it down as it is very fragile. If it has powered rear seats, check all the motors are working. Also check that the rear row seats fold correctly on 7 seaters as it was common for them to get stuck. Check that the front seats don’t rock on their mounts, I’ve heard that reported as an issue on some cars, but not sure if that was an S specific issue or not. Easy to check anyway! Worth checking the heaters and a/c too, both front and back - you often hear reports of missing ducting or poor rear heating/cooling performance. When driving, look out for a shudder on full bore acceleration. This seems quite a common issue on standard ride height. Lowering it tends to reduce the problem. Check for even tyre wear too, again quite common to see cars with excessive edge wear, inside or outside. On the sound system, check all speakers are working and no rattling of speaker grilles etc. Easiest way to do that is to move the sound balance around the car to isolate each corner. Check the touchscreen display is clear, with no colour distortion at the edges. Some have been replaced due to yellowing.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

That’s a tricky question as there have been so many updates to the door parts and sensors along the way. Things to look out for are evidence of rubbing on the inside of the door posts and wheelarch where the FWDs close. Also pay attention to the door alignment on the outside. Any sign of significant misalignment and/or rubbing would suggest it hasn’t been fully sorted. Also listen out for creaking and popping noises when the FWDs open and close. It should all be smooth and silent apart from the whir of the door motors. Check panel gaps in general, especially around the front light clusters, I’ve seen some bad examples in that area with the light clusters sticking out at the rear side edge. Check the front hood is not dented from a careless owner pressing it down as it is very fragile. If it has powered rear seats, check all the motors are working. Also check that the rear row seats fold correctly on 7 seaters as it was common for them to get stuck. Check that the front seats don’t rock on their mounts, I’ve heard that reported as an issue on some cars, but not sure if that was an S specific issue or not. Easy to check anyway! Worth checking the heaters and a/c too, both front and back - you often hear reports of missing ducting or poor rear heating/cooling performance. When driving, look out for a shudder on full bore acceleration. This seems quite a common issue on standard ride height. Lowering it tends to reduce the problem. Check for even tyre wear too, again quite common to see cars with excessive edge wear, inside or outside. On the sound system, check all speakers are working and no rattling of speaker grilles etc. Easiest way to do that is to move the sound balance around the car to isolate each corner. Check the touchscreen display is clear, with no colour distortion at the edges. Some have been replaced due to yellowing.

Thanks Peteski for that very thorough and detailed response. Very helpful.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

if you want an incredible lease deal for a 2016 P90D let me know.

the door latches will be upgraded soon, along with a new windshield, and the FWD switches have already been upgraded to the more intuitive design.

Looks like an AP1 from your sig.

AP2 is pretty important for me. Thanks for the offer though

 

[P85_DA]

By default than you are looking at mid 2017 models which quality is generally better

Looks like an AP1 from your sig.

AP2 is pretty important for me. Thanks for the offer though

 

[Leftysmasher]

Looks like an AP1 from your sig.

AP2 is pretty important for me. Thanks for the offer though

Why is AP2 important vs. AP1? For me it’s the side cameras that help with warnings when cars are next to you on the hwy especially.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

By default than you are looking at mid 2017 models which quality is generally better

That's what I thought too -- until I came across a couple of end of 16 AP2 X's.

You are right though...the FWD fit and finish are definitely noticeable in person. and the floor is all weird in the 5 seater versions.

It's split levels back there...Not sure why

 

[P85_DA]

I stand corrected I was talking about AP2.5 mid 2017 ..I held off getting my X for a year so I could specifically get 2.5 and was waiting for all the quality issues to go away ..I had early 2013 S than 2014 S ..and the quality differences were notable ..I’m usually early adopter but in case of Tesla’s glad I wasn’t

 

[Peteybabes]

Looks like an AP1 from your sig.

AP2 is pretty important for me. Thanks for the offer though

ok, no worries.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

Anyone know when / if the 5 seater & 7 seater X got sliding and fold flat seats ?

 

[Peteybabes]

Anyone know when / if the 5 seater & 7 seater X got sliding and fold flat seats ?

must have been mid 2017?

 

[P85_DA]

2017

 

[Peteski]

Anyone know when / if the 5 seater & 7 seater X got sliding and fold flat seats ?

I think it was mid to late 2017. I ordered my new 7 seater at the end of September not long after it was released. The demo cars I saw in summer 2017 all had the older seat configurations.

 

[Tes La Ferrari]

I think it was mid to late 2017. I ordered my new 7 seater at the end of September not long after it was released. The demo cars I saw in summer 2017 all had the older seat configurations.

Do the 2nd row seats in your late 17 slide, and fold flat,Peteski ?