I'm sure some software engineer at Tesla will figure out an ingenious solution to automatically re-calibrate the windows/doors without user intervention. It may be 6-12 months from now, but remember we're still in the teething years of this new vehicle.
Today my X displayed a service warning, touch screen not enabled. Could not auto park or open doors, with father in-law on board. So I: Press and hold both scroll buttons for a few seconds. Center console display will turn black and reboot. Everything happy there-after, thanks @ohmman !! A swift perpendicular hands-free park happened then.
Our front driver side window somehow got messed up and wouldn't close. You'd pull the switch to close it but as soon as it got to the top it went back down to half way. I followed the instructions in this thread and eventually got it back to normal--yay forums, no need to call the service center.
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I am seeing a variation in recalibration techniques. This is what tech support told me. First we have to reset the current calibration - open the door, bring the window all the way up. - With the door open engage the latch by using a screw driver or a pen. (Basically puts the latch in the lock position) -now use the unlock handle and the latch should disengage. Now close the door and repeat the roll down & hold for ~5 seconds followed by roll up and hold for ~5 seconds sequence a few times. It might need to be repeated a dozen times. Ultimately the above did not help my issue. SC took care of it.
We had to do a front passenger window calibration (window was rolling too far up). Our tech suggested the above and when that didn't work, he sent us this: I’m sorry that didn’t work! Our service team told me they have had little success with that method and gave me a much better method (and the method they would use). Again, if you feel uncomfortable about this we can get you in and have the service team do this. The (better) procedure is: 1.Open door. 2.Roll window down. 3.Auto-roll window up (pull up fully on the switch and release so it rolls itself up without you holding the switch). 4.When window is about half way open, give it a firm smack downwards from above. This simulates something getting stuck in the window and it will roll down to prevent injury. 5.Repeat this process until the window will no longer auto roll up. This can take 10-15 repetitions. 6.Close and open the door to verify Please let me know if that works and if not we will work swiftly to resolve it through service.
I am really surprised at the variations and also the unpredictability of these methods. It should be far simpler than this. It is not like the doors and windows have machine learning embedded in them and we need to simulate various scenarios multiple times to make it learn the right away. Really odd!
I had the same problem...everytime time trying to raise to the closed position, it would automatically go to the mid open position. After several attemps at the reset/recalibration....I tried the tap, rise, tap, rise method....at some point while doing this, the auto window function stopped working all together (when pushing or pulling the button to its rull up/down position, the window would not move automatically). At this point, I tried the original calibration procedure...moving the window to the full open position and holding the button down for 5 seconds, then raise to the top holding the button down for 5 seconds....after this, the window started functioning normally again... (break pedal pushed the entire time)...Hope this helps
My guess is that there are different failure modes of the window...one when it is miscalibrated in a higher than normal position and tries to raise the window to high and then feels resistance at the top and lowers to a safe position...and another when it is miscalibrated in a lower than normal position...and each requires different reset techniques...perhaps there are other failure modes as well. I believe mine was miscalibrated in a "too high" mode. the previous night, when closing the door, the window actually raised too high and went above its normal position to above the trim and the top was acutally pushed out from its normal plane of operation...this was very disconcerting....so I lowered the window and kept it open till I could try some of the reset technicques
Thanks @ohmman . My X is in the shop having the driver's window regulator replaced. I had to recalibrate the window several times and finally they decided to replace the regulator. By that time the X had partially "eaten" the window molding which is also being replaced. Helpful post. Definitely should be in Wiki.
I have an appointment to get that done for my passenger window next week along with some seal fixes and a rattle from the trunk
This reminds me of the Dick Van Dyke show or perhaps the superstitious actions of tech support in the (very) old days whose first recommendation was to "defrag the disk." For you youngsters, trust me.
Today I had my Model X windows tinted and hence the need to recalibrate the front windows. The following is what Tesla tech support told over the phone to the installer and it worked the first time: 1. Pinch the door 25 times. See attached pic. The circled area is one big button that tells the car when to roll up/down the window so it doesn't hit the top of the car. And then close the door. 2. Roll the window down completely and hold the roll button down for 10secs 3. Slowly roll the window up in several small increments. 4. For the final up roll, hold the roll button up for 10secs. Open the door and test. It should have recalibrated.
Pinch = hold the door with the fingers on the outside edge on the metal and the thumb on the inside kind of where the arrow is on the pic and press your hand in a pinching movement That area I have circled moves in and out a bit..it's a large button disguised as the inside of the door. When it is pressed (when the door closes) the car knows to pull the window up and when it is released (when the door is open) the car knows to roll down the window a little.