Hmmm....I got complaints from my rear seat passengers couple days back that it was blowing cold air back there. We just ignored it since it was a short enough drive but I have to try this change to LO and then higher trick...thanks for the tip! BTW, I am on 2.48.35 on MX.
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Hmmm....I got complaints from my rear seat passengers couple days back that it was blowing cold air back there. We just ignored it since it was a short enough drive but I have to try this change to LO and then higher trick...thanks for the tip! BTW, I am on 2.48.35 on MX.
This used to happen with all of the vents on my '99 Acura TL when going from one season to the next. I don't actually know the mechanics of it, but I always pictured a valve/flap in the ducts that was stuck in the "block the heat" position from being there so long. Flipping back and forth "jiggled" it loose.
Totally my imagination, but it's interesting to hear the same thing happening with the X.
K-MTG
Sunshade Captain of TMC
Now if only the X shared my Acura's build quality...
scottf200
Well-Known Member
I had a more senior tech pickup, test my car with me, and then return it after some fixes. During that time he mentioned a couple things about the Center Display and Instr Cluster resets. See comments below. Sorry I don't have more details but wanted to let you know what I heard.
He used the developer access screen (via the 4 alphanumeric 24hr rolling code) to reset some 'modules'. There seemed to be like 12 or 16 different reset buttons. While in the car my Android didn't connect but was shown in the list of available past devices. He reset some modules to clear cache (and other data?) related to bluetooth. My phone then connected right away. In the past I would 'forget' and then repair my phone. Happens perhaps each month or every other.
He used the developer access screen (via the 4 alphanumeric 24hr rolling code) to reset some 'modules'. There seemed to be like 12 or 16 different reset buttons. While in the car my Android didn't connect but was shown in the list of available past devices. He reset some modules to clear cache (and other data?) related to bluetooth. My phone then connected right away. In the past I would 'forget' and then repair my phone. Happens perhaps each month or every other.
There is another level of this reset if you hold down for 25-30 seconds. It was not exactly clear what else it cleaned up or cache it cleared but just wanted to point out there was more than one way to reset this.
This reset is not really required anymore (probably for at least a year). They started clearing cache and other data automatically related to the IC.
One more window recalibration technique sent directly by email from the service center when the simpler method didn't work. It's several steps, but more detailed than anything I've seen here before.
De-Calibration
Calibration
Note: Perform the steps in the De-Calibration section before continuing.
De-Calibration
- Open the door that has the affected window.
- Fully raise the window.
- Use a pen or screwdriver shaft to manually latch the door while it is open.
- Use the interior or exterior door handle to unlatch the door.
- Press the window switch down to the second position to activate the auto-lower function.
- If the window lowers slightly, the regulator has been decalibrated. Skip to the Calibration section.
- If the window lowers completely, continue to the next step.
- Repeatedly activate auto-reverse on the affected window:
- Enter the vehicle and close the door.
- Hold a non-marring tool (we used a rolled up bath towel) below the upper window seal. Raise the window so that it contacts the tool and automatically reverses. (Will go about 1/2 way down)
- Repeat the previous sub-step 14 times.
Note: Perform the steps in the De-Calibration section before continuing.
- Enter the vehicle and close the door.
- Lower the window fully, and continue to hold the window switch down for 2 seconds after the window stops.
- Raise the window fully, and continue to hold the window switch up for 5 seconds after the window stops.
- Press the window switch down to the second position to activate the auto-lower function.
- If the window lowers completely, the regulator is properly calibrated. Discontinue this procedure.
- If the window does not lower completely, repeat step 6 of the De-Calibration procedure, then perform the Calibration procedure again.
Solarman004
Member
The following handy tip was posted on the TM Forum:
FWD problem post Merry X mas (solution)
Submitted by emailarvin on January 11, 2017
We had the pleasure of doing the model X max presentation once the easter egg was released. It was the highlight of the Christmas Party we were at, and everyone seemed to enjoy it. We then left the country, and upon return we found that the passenger side FWD would no longer open. It was closed, but whenever we pressed it from the touchscreen or from outside nothing would happen.
We contacted Tesla who checked the logs, stated that there was some sort of problem where the door was deactivated, and they felt it was in result of a bug from the X max Easter egg. They stated they would need the car in the shop, but next availability wasn't for a few weeks. As the other doors worked, I hesitantly agreed.
My service Rep then called me about 15 minutes later, and asked me to do a reset procedure. Essentially to hold the inside lever downwards for 15-20 seconds to see if this would help. I proceeded to do this, and after about 15 seconds, I heard a small pop. After this the door worked without any difficulty.
This may be common knowledge, but I am unsure if anyone else has had to deal with this, so I wanted the community to know in case anyone has any problems similar to this.
FWD problem post Merry X mas (solution)
Submitted by emailarvin on January 11, 2017
We had the pleasure of doing the model X max presentation once the easter egg was released. It was the highlight of the Christmas Party we were at, and everyone seemed to enjoy it. We then left the country, and upon return we found that the passenger side FWD would no longer open. It was closed, but whenever we pressed it from the touchscreen or from outside nothing would happen.
We contacted Tesla who checked the logs, stated that there was some sort of problem where the door was deactivated, and they felt it was in result of a bug from the X max Easter egg. They stated they would need the car in the shop, but next availability wasn't for a few weeks. As the other doors worked, I hesitantly agreed.
My service Rep then called me about 15 minutes later, and asked me to do a reset procedure. Essentially to hold the inside lever downwards for 15-20 seconds to see if this would help. I proceeded to do this, and after about 15 seconds, I heard a small pop. After this the door worked without any difficulty.
This may be common knowledge, but I am unsure if anyone else has had to deal with this, so I wanted the community to know in case anyone has any problems similar to this.
Solarman004
Member
Loss of All Sound
I, and a handful of others, have experienced a total loss of all sounds--radio, parking assist, turn signals, navigation, etc. The usual reset techniques did not work.
The following tip, submitted by @NuG in the Model S/User Interface section worked for me and others. I had to perform it twice before it worked:
After 3 days of no sound, I was able to get my sound to come back by doing the following:
1. From the Music menu, go to your equalizer. Move each of the 5 settings from its current position to a different position, doesnt matter up or down. Stay on the EQ settings
2. Then perform a scroll reset on the steering wheel
The sound came back by doing the above. Before this, I tried powering down, scroll reset, dashboard reset and none of these work until I did the above told to me by my service center. Hope it works for others, please report back if it does.
I, and a handful of others, have experienced a total loss of all sounds--radio, parking assist, turn signals, navigation, etc. The usual reset techniques did not work.
The following tip, submitted by @NuG in the Model S/User Interface section worked for me and others. I had to perform it twice before it worked:
After 3 days of no sound, I was able to get my sound to come back by doing the following:
1. From the Music menu, go to your equalizer. Move each of the 5 settings from its current position to a different position, doesnt matter up or down. Stay on the EQ settings
2. Then perform a scroll reset on the steering wheel
The sound came back by doing the above. Before this, I tried powering down, scroll reset, dashboard reset and none of these work until I did the above told to me by my service center. Hope it works for others, please report back if it does.
Interesting...may have to try this technique. My wife and I in our Model S and Model X respectively have had a loss of sound, but on the dash display it showed our phones as connected as if we were in a call, but even though the "End Call" option was highlighted, nothing happened when you clicked the scroll wheel. We tried the reboot of the center display, but this did not resolve the problem (note, we did not try moving the EQ settings). Thinking this might be a phone based issue, we were both successful getting out of this "phone connected" issue by turning our phones off, then back on and for at least the duration of that drive the problem didn't recur. That said, it has recurred in my wife's Model X at least twice. I just got the latest firmware in the X and it has only happened once, but I haven't driven it much. Also, we tried just disconnecting the phone from BlueTooth in the car, this temporarily fixed the issue, but as soon as BT reconnected, the "phone connected" issue would recur.
Hopefully that bug is also being addressed.
Not quite exactly the same...I have a recurring issue (once every 60 days) when the phone (mine is an iPhone 6+) is playing audio (song or podcast) but nothing is coming from the speakers.
I've found that switching to Streaming and pressing play to generate audio and then back to Phone restores audio. However you must have music playing when on Streaming otherwise simply switching sources to Streaming and back to Phone won't fix it.
I've found that switching to Streaming and pressing play to generate audio and then back to Phone restores audio. However you must have music playing when on Streaming otherwise simply switching sources to Streaming and back to Phone won't fix it.
Solarman004
Member
I downloaded this morning the software update to v8.0(2.52.22). It corrected the issue of the equalizer constantly resetting itself. Hopefully it will also eliminate this loss of sound issue.
krazineurons
krazineurons
Connecting to wifi was originally thought to help with updates, then it wasn't. It has recently been confirmed to aid in priority on software updates, so if you see conflicting information this is why. Do you connect to wifi overnight at home? Also, what are you using as a metric to determine whether you should have received an update or not?
krazineurons
krazineurons
Yes I keep it connected overnight to home WiFi, I have no indication from the car if it is connected or not though as the screen is off. I have looked at a few router stats and it seems to be exchanging data packets so that probably is a good indicator.
What makes me think I should get an update is a good question, perhaps it's my naiveness but I assumed when the shadow 52.120 update went out to all AP2 cars, since it's been a week now the update should have got to the car? What is the longest it can take for an update to get to a car?
Updates are released in ways nobody has figured out to date. Sometimes, if they're security or safety based, they seem to push to the entire fleet within a day or two. But most times, they seem to scatter out to the fleet. I remember early on with my Model S, trying to track when I'd get the next update. It never made sense. Sometimes I'd be in the first day, sometimes it'd be two weeks later. These days, I don't think about it. I just update when it shows up.
I'm guessing that so long as you're contacting the mothership, and it sounds like you are, you'll eventually get the update. I don't think there's anything in the vehicle that's going to stop it.
I'm guessing that so long as you're contacting the mothership, and it sounds like you are, you'll eventually get the update. I don't think there's anything in the vehicle that's going to stop it.
Can you give us more information? How long have you had the car? Have you ever gotten an update? Have you missed any specific update? Have you taken the care to the SvC and had an update applied that didn't get done over the air and if so, when? What is your current firmware?
krazineurons
krazineurons
I got the 17.3.2 update today morning via home WiFi, phone app did not notify me. So I guess all my connectivity issues are sorted (hopefully), but it still feels like a blackbox where there is no way for me to identify if my car has any connectivity issues or not. So here are the details, hopefully this discussion will help me or someone else in the future.
How long have you had the car? 10 days
Have you ever gotten an update? yes 52.36, prompted after I parked it first-time in garage and paired with home WiFi. Took delivery at tesla SvC, few hours before that.
Have you missed any specific update? I think so, as I never got the 52.120 shadow mode update. I have a 90D
Have you taken the care to the SvC and had an update applied that didn't get done over the air and if so, when? Didn't get a chance to do that.
What is your current firmware? 17.3.2
I'd say everything is fine. Updates are irregularly sent out. You'll go months sometimes, then the next week you might get 2 (first one is the main update, second is a bug fix). The rollout of a single update may take a couple of weeks as they tend to send it out to a limited number of vehicles initially, apply any necessary bug fixes, roll it out to the next batch, then eventually to everyone. Sometimes you'll be in an early batch, other times you'll swear everyone but you has it before you finally get the notification. Check your app settings, but you should get a notification when the software is ready to install.
Ohmman, I'd like your opinion as someone who has had considerable time to tow with Model X. Now that the 100D is available, if you were able to decide between the 90D with free supercharging or the 100D without free SC, which would you do? Would the 40 miles of extra range be enough to make you give up free SC?
Haven't done towing yet, but may have a little food for thought for you.
1)How much long distance travel are you likely to do that would involve supercharging? If a lot, say monthly long distance travel utilizing superchargers where SpC access is readily available, then I would probably stick to the 90 w/Free.
2)If you plan to travel more remotely, particularly if towing, and not super frequently, I would hands down take the extra capacity battery and just pay for SpC when necessary. I suspect the cost to do so will be pretty minimal for most trips and the extra range, esp. when cold and/or towing will give you a lot of piece of mind.
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