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Wiki Model X Reset Techniques

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I live in Phoenix which has very hot summers. Will take one long road trip towing airstream to escape hot Phoenix summer (2,000 - 3,000 miles) per year.

Total estimated mileage will be 12,000 miles/yr
Total Towing mileage 3,000 (2/3's will be supercharger, 1/3 RV parks and destination charging)
Non-Towing mileage 9,000 (Supercharging 50% home 50%)

I am assuming Towing range is 50% of Model X range.

Will keep this car 4 to 5 years then buy another new Tesla. So I am thinking the 5 seater Model X D90 with free SC will have higher resale vs 5 seater 100D no free SC).
 
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Ohmman, I'd like your opinion as someone who has had considerable time to tow with Model X. Now that the 100D is available, if you were able to decide between the 90D with free supercharging or the 100D without free SC, which would you do? Would the 40 miles of extra range be enough to make you give up free SC?
I have answered your question in the other thread where you asked it.
 
One more window recalibration technique sent directly by email from the service center when the simpler method didn't work. It's several steps, but more detailed than anything I've seen here before.

De-Calibration

  1. Open the door that has the affected window.
  2. Fully raise the window.
  3. Use a pen or screwdriver shaft to manually latch the door while it is open.
Note: The latch is fully closed when it clicks twice.

  1. Use the interior or exterior door handle to unlatch the door.
  2. Press the window switch down to the second position to activate the auto-lower function.
    • If the window lowers slightly, the regulator has been decalibrated. Skip to the Calibration section.
    • If the window lowers completely, continue to the next step.
  3. Repeatedly activate auto-reverse on the affected window:
  • Enter the vehicle and close the door.
  • Hold a non-marring tool (we used a rolled up bath towel) below the upper window seal. Raise the window so that it contacts the tool and automatically reverses. (Will go about 1/2 way down)
  • Repeat the previous sub-step 14 times.
Calibration

Note: Perform the steps in the De-Calibration section before continuing.

  1. Enter the vehicle and close the door.
  2. Lower the window fully, and continue to hold the window switch down for 2 seconds after the window stops.
  3. Raise the window fully, and continue to hold the window switch up for 5 seconds after the window stops.
  4. Press the window switch down to the second position to activate the auto-lower function.
    • If the window lowers completely, the regulator is properly calibrated. Discontinue this procedure.
    • If the window does not lower completely, repeat step 6 of the De-Calibration procedure, then perform the Calibration procedure again.

Hi, does this method also work for Model S, or just X?
Thanks
Mark
 
My passenger FWD is permanently displaying gray obstacle irrespective of the location after 8.1 update. I tried the first listed reset technique to no avail. I wanted to do a full reset now, but I can not find access panel on the frunk. Where exactly is it? Thanks!
 
My passenger FWD is permanently displaying gray obstacle irrespective of the location after 8.1 update. I tried the first listed reset technique to no avail. I wanted to do a full reset now, but I can not find access panel on the frunk. Where exactly is it? Thanks!
Before doing that, and please excuse the obvious question, but have you checked the new FWD setting to make sure it is not in Low mode?
A constant phantom obstacle can likely be a sensor in the door that has come loose. There are a number of reports on the forum of this. It's an easy SC fix.
 
Before doing that, and please excuse the obvious question, but have you checked the new FWD setting to make sure it is not in Low mode?
A constant phantom obstacle can likely be a sensor in the door that has come loose. There are a number of reports on the forum of this. It's an easy SC fix.

I have checked everything I could. Today, I actually notice that BOTH passenger doors behave abnormally, FWD and front door. Not sure if they have separate sensors, but front door also opens just slightly when handle is pressed. I sent videos to my SA.
 
I had my car in about 10 days ago for the annual service, detail, and rumbling. They also swapped out my latches even though I didn't have any problems with it. Luckily, they fixed the rumbling issue but introduced a more significant problem. Since I picked up my car, I had problems with the passenger door. I am disappointed that they failed to check this before returning the car to me.

Occasionally when I switch into drive/reverse, the car tells me the passenger door is open. While the door is closed, it fails to make the latching sound and move the window upwards. This unfortunately results in a beeping noise while driving, requiring me to manually close the door or pull the interior handle slightly while the door is fully closed and it will latch. This also results in my car being unlocked at time with the AC running. NOT SAFE, especially when parked at the mall, etc...

Is this something I can fix myself?? Or do I have to take it in, yet again???

By the way @ohmman, you are on GOOGLE!

Screen Shot 2017-04-22 at 8.37.24 PM.png
 
I had my car in about 10 days ago for the annual service, detail, and rumbling. They also swapped out my latches even though I didn't have any problems with it. Luckily, they fixed the rumbling issue but introduced a more significant problem. Since I picked up my car, I had problems with the passenger door. I am disappointed that they failed to check this before returning the car to me.

Occasionally when I switch into drive/reverse, the car tells me the passenger door is open. While the door is closed, it fails to make the latching sound and move the window upwards. This unfortunately results in a beeping noise while driving, requiring me to manually close the door or pull the interior handle slightly while the door is fully closed and it will latch. This also results in my car being unlocked at time with the AC running. NOT SAFE, especially when parked at the mall, etc...

Is this something I can fix myself?? Or do I have to take it in, yet again???

By the way @ohmman, you are on GOOGLE!

View attachment 224036

The issue is getting worse, now my car alarm goes off because it thinks the door opened (the car just randomly lowers the glass).
 
I thought this would be like a 5-minute job since the issue started occurring after I previously picked up my car after they replaced the latches so I didn't assume it would be hardware related and I can fix it myself....
My guess is that they put in a bad latch, and it needs replacing.
 
How far does your window go down when you open the door? For my drivers door it goes down 3/4 inch below the rubber seal and goes back up when you close the door. For my passenger door it lines up with the rubber seal and barley goes back up.
 
Front Door Windows Calibration

Method 2 (Newer)
Open door.
Roll window down.
Auto-roll window up (pull up fully on the switch and release so it rolls itself up without you holding the switch).
When window is about half way open, give it a firm smack downwards from above. This simulates something getting stuck in the window and it will roll down to prevent injury.
Repeat this process until the window will no longer auto roll up. This can take 10-15 repetitions.
Close and open the door to verify
Invaluable -- the "bump" window calibration (light tap with palm as window auto closes ... 4 repetitions) saved me today. I owe you a beer.