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Wiki Model X Reset Techniques

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#161
Can the 12v battery terminal be disconnected without removing the Frunk liner etc? I saw the 12V battery change procedure on YouTube and it looked pretty intense:)

Also curious why Model 3 owners were also disconnecting a connector located under rear seats vs. just removing the 12v terminal.
 
#162
tommytuna said:
Can the 12v battery terminal be disconnected without removing the Frunk liner etc? I saw the 12V battery change procedure on YouTube and it looked pretty intense:)
Click to expand...
In the Model X you can easily disconnect the +12V terminal with just removing the cover in the frunk. You don't need to remove the frunk liner.

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#168
Cross positing, sorry

I have recently found that I have a new hobby- showing local Tesla owners how to resuscitate their dead Teslas if they let the main battery (and subsequent 12 volt battery) discharge completely. Have helped several people on the Tesla Forum and even one of my associates who thought he could charge his 2019 Model S up to 100% and then fly to India for 3 weeks (and got stuck there for 6 weeks with the pandemic and cancelled flights. We knew this was going to happen!). Each model Tesla has different challenges. I am surprised more owners have not learned what to do when the Triple A guy


The strategy is the same for each car- have the main Tesla battery charger ready to go, get access to the 12 volt battery or the hot leads in the fuse box, jump the 12 volt battery until there is enough charge to open the charge port, and charge the car!


For the Model X (my car), you need to pull the plastic cover off of the front left side of the car and get access to the two pull cables labeled 1 and 2, release them sequentially, then open the frunk. Pull the housing off the flat part in front of the windshield and just behind the frunk, pop the fuse box in the left side (the battery is deep behind the frunk, you cannot get to it) and locate the hot lead and plug the hot lead of the charger to that and the ground of the charger to chassis, turn on charger and wait. When the car wakes up, open the charge port and charge.


(I also suggested leaving the 12 volt charger attached for a while to get the 12 volt battery up a little, until there is enough main battery charge to continue to charge the 12 volt).


For early Model S’s you don’t need to pop the frunk, but you can get access to the 12 volt battery hot leads by pulling the front nose cone off (carefully)- they are right there behind the nose cone on top. Repeat the charge and charging process.


The late Model S’s are a little more challenging. The emergency frunk releases are behind the right and left front wheel well plastic covers. You have to pry the bottom edge off of both sides and pull both right and left cables to release the two frunk latches. There are a number of good You Tube videos that demonstrate. Once inside the frunk, you have to pull the center plastic cover off (behind the frunk on top) to get access to the fuse box. Pop the fuse box, and attach the hot lead of the 12 volt charger to hot lead, and the ground to the chassis (but you can also barely see the ground of the 12 volt battery partially exposed to the left and I guess you could ground the charger there). Turn on the 12 volt charger, wait, and then when the car wakes up, pop the charge port and charge.


The Model 3 and Ys are unique- there is a round 3 inch port in the front bumper that can be popped open with a plastic pry bar (watch the You Tube videos, you have to pry from the bottom left to avoid damaging the cover) and attached to the cover are two leads, the 12 volt hot lead and a little ways back the ground lead. Plug into the 12 volt charger and wait. You will know what to do with the car wakes up!


So far this has seemed to work for me. I am amused that the hot lead in many of these cars are not covered with a red protective cover to prevent electrical shorting but this is my experience. Would welcome any other user’s experience and advice!
 
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#169
Sorry, cross posting again

I am developing a hobby of resuscitating dead or misbehaving Teslas in my small sphere of influence and there seems to be three levels of severity of reboots. However I am not an engineer, just a user and and an enthusiast. The first level is the double scroll wheel reboot that seems to reboot the MCU and fixes small issues.

A more severe reboot is located under safety and security and forces the car to "turn off." This seems to have fixed persistent misbehavior that the scroll wheel reboot does not. I think this reboots the whole car. I just fixed a MS that would not drive for its owner today. (I hope this fixes the problem, gulp!)

The most deep reboot that seems to clear caches and misbehavior I learned from this forum is to reset the wheel size of the car. I have done this on my MX once or twice and after resetting from 20" to 22" wheels, forces the whole car to reboot and clear memory caches... and then I set the wheel size back to to correct size. That has fixed a few problems I have had.

I wonder what that does? What do you guys think?
 
#170
mbp11 said:
The strategy is the same for each car- have the main Tesla battery charger ready to go, get access to the 12 volt battery or the hot leads in the fuse box, jump the 12 volt battery until there is enough charge to open the charge port, and charge the car!

For the Model X (my car), you need to pull the plastic cover off of the front left side of the car and get access to the two pull cables labeled 1 and 2, release them sequentially, then open the frunk. Pull the housing off the flat part in front of the windshield and just behind the frunk, pop the fuse box in the left side (the battery is deep behind the frunk, you cannot get to it) and locate the hot lead and plug the hot lead of the charger to that and the ground of the charger to chassis, turn on charger and wait. When the car wakes up, open the charge port and charge.

(I also suggested leaving the 12 volt charger attached for a while to get the 12 volt battery up a little, until there is enough main battery charge to continue to charge the 12 volt).
Click to expand...
This description along with the pictures in Model X Reset Techniques are useful if you do an OTA update and your aging 12v battery dies. This can show up because during the OTA software update the 400v DC -to- 12v DC charging will stop for some duration and the 12v battery is supplying all the power on its own. I had to do this exact procedure last year. Used an auto mechanics booster 12v jumper pack and left it on until the OTA finished.

The picture below is on the Tesla website for emergency/first repsonders: https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...16_Models_X_Emergency_Responders_Guide_en.pdf

5y6elvT.jpg
 
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#174
tommytuna said:
Can the 12v battery terminal be disconnected without removing the Frunk liner etc? I saw the 12V battery change procedure on YouTube and it looked pretty intense:)

Also curious why Model 3 owners were also disconnecting a connector located under rear seats vs. just removing the 12v terminal.
Click to expand...

I replaced my 12v battery recently with a lithium (LiFePO4) Ohmmu one. Below is the post which also lists the steps to remove the First Responder loop (which is similar to the Model 3 owners disconnecting the connector under the right rear seat (see Ohmmu video/install PDF below).

These Ohmmu videos and guides show the Model X and 3 (etc): Ohmmu Install Videos & Guides ).

teslamotorsclub.com

Anybody install an Ohmmu battery in their X? Looking for feedback.

I can only find threads on S and 3 for Ohmmu battery. I have the OEM battery in my MX, it is 3 years 4 months and still going but planning an extended camping trip soon which will include have a Dometic refrigerator plugged in the 12V. OEM battery is still under warranty but Tesla won't replace...
teslamotorsclub.com teslamotorsclub.com
 
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#176
mr-dmitry said:
There are no buttons above the wheel buttons on the refreshed Model X. So, the hard reset must be performed differently on it.
Click to expand...

In the MCU1 based cars, the driver's display was independent (its own computer and display) from the center infotainment. I recall using the 'four finger' reboot to restart my drivers display. 3rd party help page below indicates it is another level of 'full' rebooting.

A sometimes used trick to restart more subsystems is to temporarily change the tire configuration as it restarts the car. Then change tire config back to original. (Service -> Wheel Configuration) [I updated wiki with this].

Tesla manual:
It appears there are only two ways (reboot|recycle|restart) per the manual. Model X Owner's Manual | Tesla

ImD6ObR.jpg


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3rd party help page:
www.findmyelectric.com

How to Reset and Reboot Your Tesla – Complete Instructions

Find out how to reset your Tesla Model S, 3, X or Y. See how to reboot a Tesla (both soft and hard reset options). Unfreeze your Tesla now!
www.findmyelectric.com www.findmyelectric.com

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#178
On my X Plaid - there is no longer a ground strap under the emergency services power loop as it appears that the entire area is different than previous X's because of the 12 V changes to the Plaid. Does anybody know how to do the complete reset as below on a Model X Plaid (Refresh). I have searched and not found an answer.



Falcon Wing Door Complete Reset:
Remove access panel in funk area (no tool required)
Disconnect emergency services power loop located under the orange sticker that should be above your funk space.
Get a stubby 13mm socket and disconnect ground strap (black wire bolted to chassis under the area of the Emergency Services loop.) Wait 20 Seconds. Reconnect it.
Plug the loop back in.
Center screen will suggest you need to recalibrate the doors.
This reset is needed when no button pushes or holds work and the door is completely non-responsive.
 
#179
Toecutter said:
On my X Plaid - there is no longer a ground strap under the emergency services power loop as it appears that the entire area is different than previous X's because of the 12 V changes to the Plaid. Does anybody know how to do the complete reset as below on a Model X Plaid (Refresh). I have searched and not found an answer.



Falcon Wing Door Complete Reset:
Remove access panel in funk area (no tool required)
Disconnect emergency services power loop located under the orange sticker that should be above your funk space.
Get a stubby 13mm socket and disconnect ground strap (black wire bolted to chassis under the area of the Emergency Services loop.) Wait 20 Seconds. Reconnect it.
Plug the loop back in.
Center screen will suggest you need to recalibrate the doors.
This reset is needed when no button pushes or holds work and the door is completely non-responsive.
Click to expand...
I figured it out. If you remove the frunk cover and go to the passenger side, the new 12 V batter is right in front of the passenger area and away from the frunk towards the dash. It is a silver box with a terminal that has a green button on it. Lift the green button, slide the black cover and the connection disconnects which allows for the recalibration as above. I did everything in the order above on my Plaid and was able to get the recalibrate doors box.
 
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