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Wiki Model X Reset Techniques

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Methods for resetting various features in the Model X:

Center Display
Press and hold both scroll buttons for a few seconds. Center console display will turn black and reboot.​
Instrument Cluster
Press and hold both of the steering wheel buttons above the scroll wheels. IC display will turn black and reboot.​
Power Off/Reset
Under Settings, E-Brake and Power Off. Power vehicle off, then use the brake to restart.
Front Door Calibration
From inside the vehicle, do a scroll wheel (touchscreen) reset.
Open the door from inside (the manual handle will always release the door).
Manually push the door to the full open position, then slowly and deliberately push the door manually closed so that it will latch. Close it slow enough that it takes about 5 to 10 seconds. If the latch pulls the door in, all is working okay.
Front Door Windows Calibration
With the door closed, roll the window all the way down with a "soft click" (not the full down click). Hold the window down for at least 5 seconds after it is fully closed.
Roll the window back up with a soft click (not full up) and hold the window all the way up for at least 5 seconds.​
Today my X displayed a service warning, touch screen not enabled. Could not auto park or open doors, with father in-law on board. So I:
Press and hold both scroll buttons for a few seconds. Center console display will turn black and reboot.
Everything happy there-after, thanks @ohmman !! A swift perpendicular hands-free park happened then.
 
I am seeing a variation in recalibration techniques. This is what tech support told me.
First we have to reset the current calibration
- open the door, bring the window all the way up.
- With the door open engage the latch by using a screw driver or a pen. (Basically puts the latch in the lock position)
-now use the unlock handle and the latch should disengage.

Now close the door and repeat the roll down & hold for ~5 seconds followed by roll up and hold for ~5 seconds sequence a few times. It might need to be repeated a dozen times.

Ultimately the above did not help my issue. SC took care of it.
 
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We had to do a front passenger window calibration (window was rolling too far up). Our tech suggested the above and when that didn't work, he sent us this:

I’m sorry that didn’t work! Our service team told me they have had little success with that method and gave me a much better method (and the method they would use). Again, if you feel uncomfortable about this we can get you in and have the service team do this. The (better) procedure is:


1.Open door.

2.Roll window down.

3.Auto-roll window up (pull up fully on the switch and release so it rolls itself up without you holding the switch).

4.When window is about half way open, give it a firm smack downwards from above. This simulates something getting stuck in the window and it will roll down to prevent injury.

5.Repeat this process until the window will no longer auto roll up. This can take 10-15 repetitions.

6.Close and open the door to verify


Please let me know if that works and if not we will work swiftly to resolve it through service.​
 
I am really surprised at the variations and also the unpredictability of these methods. It should be far simpler than this. It is not like the doors and windows have machine learning embedded in them and we need to simulate various scenarios multiple times to make it learn the right away. Really odd!
 
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I am really surprised at the variations and also the unpredictability of these methods. It should be far simpler than this. It is not like the doors and windows have machine learning embedded in them and we need to simulate various scenarios multiple times to make it learn the right away. Really odd!

Agreed. What really strikes me is the "it may take a dozen times" or "try 10-15 times".
 
Reposting this from another thread, as I was trying to figure out a front driver-side window that had lost its calibration:
---------

So I went to a service center today and had the window fixed. This is what they did:

At first, the guy tried the regular window calibration trick—push and hold to the bottom, wait a few seconds (guy said 2-3 seconds was enough), then raise and hold. But of course, when the window hit the top, it would immediately drop back down to the halfway mark. He tried this 5-6 times. I was like "dude, it's not working", but he said it just took persistence sometimes. So if at first it doesn't succeed, try, try again.

But after that 6th time or so, he changed tacks. He still brought it down, held for two seconds. But then he began raising it in short increments, like tap and raise, tap and raise, a few inches at a time. This actually did the trick. When the window got to the top, it didn't drop back down again. After that, it was working fine.

He said that sometimes you've got to mix it up if the regular recalibration process doesn't work, still go down and press-hold, but then try raising it in various increments. So now my window works, and hopefully this will help the next person with that problem.

I had the same problem...everytime time trying to raise to the closed position, it would automatically go to the mid open position. After several attemps at the reset/recalibration....I tried the tap, rise, tap, rise method....at some point while doing this, the auto window function stopped working all together (when pushing or pulling the button to its rull up/down position, the window would not move automatically). At this point, I tried the original calibration procedure...moving the window to the full open position and holding the button down for 5 seconds, then raise to the top holding the button down for 5 seconds....after this, the window started functioning normally again... (break pedal pushed the entire time)...Hope this helps
 
I am really surprised at the variations and also the unpredictability of these methods. It should be far simpler than this. It is not like the doors and windows have machine learning embedded in them and we need to simulate various scenarios multiple times to make it learn the right away. Really odd!

My guess is that there are different failure modes of the window...one when it is miscalibrated in a higher than normal position and tries to raise the window to high and then feels resistance at the top and lowers to a safe position...and another when it is miscalibrated in a lower than normal position...and each requires different reset techniques...perhaps there are other failure modes as well.

I believe mine was miscalibrated in a "too high" mode. the previous night, when closing the door, the window actually raised too high and went above its normal position to above the trim and the top was acutally pushed out from its normal plane of operation...this was very disconcerting....so I lowered the window and kept it open till I could try some of the reset technicques
 
Thanks @ohmman . My X is in the shop having the driver's window regulator replaced. I had to recalibrate the window several times and finally they decided to replace the regulator. By that time the X had partially "eaten" the window molding which is also being replaced. Helpful post. Definitely should be in Wiki.
 
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Thanks @ohmman . My X is in the shop having the driver's window regulator replaced. I had to recalibrate the window several times and finally they decided to replace the regulator. By that time the X had partially "eaten" the window molding which is also being replaced. Helpful post. Definitely should be in Wiki.

I have an appointment to get that done for my passenger window next week along with some seal fixes and a rattle from the trunk
 
This reminds me of the Dick Van Dyke show
First, Phil tells Rob that people have called the telephone company that they could not successfully call his phone number. While Phil is talking, he begins to tap Sally's telephone and get Rob to think the echoing tap, is that his telephone! Rob calls it static. Phil got Rob to do five things, 'to repair his undamaged telephone'. First, shake it vigorously over his head. Second, blow hard on the bottom part of the phone. Third, unscrew the telephone handle apart mouthpiece and earpiece and look at it, unassembled. Fourth, Phil pretends that he can not hear Rob, which causes Rob to raise his voice and shout on the telephone. After this, Phil said a hysterical line and asked Rob if would take the phone outside and 'scream like a chicken!

or perhaps the superstitious actions of tech support in the (very) old days whose first recommendation was to "defrag the disk." For you youngsters, trust me.
 
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Today I had my Model X windows tinted and hence the need to recalibrate the front windows. The following is what Tesla tech support told over the phone to the installer and it worked the first time:
1. Pinch the door 25 times. See attached pic. The circled area is one big button that tells the car when to roll up/down the window so it doesn't hit the top of the car. And then close the door.
2. Roll the window down completely and hold the roll button down for 10secs
3. Slowly roll the window up in several small increments.
4. For the final up roll, hold the roll button up for 10secs.

Open the door and test. It should have recalibrated.
 

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Today I had my Model X windows tinted and hence the need to recalibrate the front windows. The following is what Tesla tech support told over the phone to the installer and it worked the first time:
1. Pinch the door 25 times. See attached pic. The circled area is one big button that tells the car when to roll up/down the window so it doesn't hit the top of the car. And then close the door.
2. Roll the window down completely and hold the roll button down for 10secs
3. Slowly roll the window up in several small increments.
4. For the final up roll, hold the roll button up for 10secs.
Open the door and test. It should have recalibrated.

Clarification please...PINCH o_O ????? is it open
 
Pinch = hold the door with the fingers on the outside edge on the metal and the thumb on the inside kind of where the arrow is on the pic and press your hand in a pinching movement

That area I have circled moves in and out a bit..it's a large button disguised as the inside of the door. When it is pressed (when the door closes) the car knows to pull the window up and when it is released (when the door is open) the car knows to roll down the window a little.
 
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