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Wiki Model X Reset Techniques

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I have tried both ways to calibrate the window with no luck. I am worried the window is going to shatter when the glass hits the metal frame. For now I am leaving the window down about two inches. Tesla is going to send a porter to pick the car up at my house on Wednesday.
 
My on screen mapping has stopped displaying either maps or overhead view, yet still knows my location. Has anyone found some way of resetting that?

The problem seemed to occur after we were out of 3G range for a bit.

Thanks,

Jon
Monday, AT&T had an outage that affected Tesla. Most Tesla's on Monday had spotty LTE/3G coverage, which could explain the issue with your maps. Things were back to normal Monday night/Tuesday morning.
 
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1.) On the b pillar interior switch hold the switch down for about 3 seconds. The FWD cracked open an inch or two. At this point, it was still non-responsive to the touch screen.
2.) Again on the b pillar interior switch, hold the switch down for about 3 second. The FWD closed.

Did you have to perform a center screen reset before you could re-calibrate the Falcon Wing Door? I just tried to do this in my car and, while sitting in the drivers seat and reaching back to push the pillar switch down, I just got a single warning beep with no door movement.
 
Did you have to perform a center screen reset before you could re-calibrate the Falcon Wing Door? I just tried to do this in my car and, while sitting in the drivers seat and reaching back to push the pillar switch down, I just got a single warning beep with no door movement.

Dazureus,
I walked through all the various reset procedures at the time in the hopes that it would help, so I did an instrument cluster restart, a center console restart, I powered down the car and powered it back up. All of that preceded the sequence above.
 
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a few people have had the issue of active spoiler stuck down. in a last ditch effort before going to the SC today, i finally fixed mine.
method was the following:

put vehicle in park. change active spoiler setting to "extended". then, use center console reset technique. upon boot-up, the spoiler will extend fully, which is normal operation.
 
a few people have had the issue of active spoiler stuck down. in a last ditch effort before going to the SC today, i finally fixed mine.
method was the following:

put vehicle in park. change active spoiler setting to "extended". then, use center console reset technique. upon boot-up, the spoiler will extend fully, which is normal operation.
I must have missed those threads. I just got my X back from the SC today and they couldn't find anything wrong with my active spoiler. I've had several case s of it going down during a drive. Seems like a couple are if I go above my threshold (60 MPH) for a short duration (< 10 seconds) where it tilts 30 degrees or whatever it is. I've then gone to a full stop and had it drop down and stay for the rest of the drive. I've had it stay down for a few days while on a roadtrip.
 
I must have missed those threads. I just got my X back from the SC today and they couldn't find anything wrong with my active spoiler. I've had several case s of it going down during a drive. Seems like a couple are if I go above my threshold (60 MPH) for a short duration (< 10 seconds) where it tilts 30 degrees or whatever it is. I've then gone to a full stop and had it drop down and stay for the rest of the drive. I've had it stay down for a few days while on a roadtrip.

yours actually could be a controller issue. one case had more erratic behavior than just being stuck and the SC replaced the spoiler controller, which fixed the issues. try the above to see if it helps. else, may be a controller issue.
 
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yours actually could be a controller issue. one case had more erratic behavior than just being stuck and the SC replaced the spoiler controller, which fixed the issues. try the above to see if it helps. else, may be a controller issue.

I had to get mine recalibrated after a firmware update as it just didn't go up at all. It was "stuck" down. Calibration took the SC 10 minutes to do.
 
I have tried both ways to calibrate the window with no luck. I am worried the window is going to shatter when the glass hits the metal frame. For now I am leaving the window down about two inches. Tesla is going to send a porter to pick the car up at my house on Wednesday.

I had our passenger front window stop rolling down slightly when door opened so it hit the frame when closed. It would roll down with switch fine and then if back up only almost to top like it should be.

Tried the reset techniques. After the method of bumping it hard on way up, about 10+ times, so it eventually would not roll up at all, that seemed to work. I also rolled it down all the way and held it, reset the center screen, etc. The odd thing is that there is some "extra" window in there even as when I rolled it up all the way after this it went way higher than it should even by another 1/4 inch.

Eventually it is working fine now, some combo i did worked. It was still acting odd as when closing the door, it takes about 4-5 seconds before it pops up that final bit, slower than other door now.
 
Last night rear HVAC was blowing cold air the first time I needed heat back there.
This happened: Range Mode off. Temp setting 68F. Outside temps low 20’sF. Butts in rear seats. Rear HVAC on, fan manually up to 7 (max). Front heat nice and warm, including center console for the middle seats. Pillar vents blew cold air. Passengers shut the vents and when they told me I tried turning the rear temp setting up to Hi but no change so I just turned it off. FW 8 v 2.44.121. {middle seat passengers were comfortable and seat heaters were on 1 or 2, no passengers were harmed as a result}

Today I checked and rear HVAC was still blowing cold air UNTIL I changed the temp to LO first then back to HI. Now it blows warm air with the temp set to 68.