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Model X seemingly bricked—black screens all around, reboots don’t work

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Have a 2021 Model X with roughly 15k miles.

Drove the car multiple times today without issue. Parked the car at home for about an hour and went to leave and the instrument panel wouldn’t come on, though center screen would.

I first did a soft reboot and then neither screen would come on.

I then did a four-button hard reset. That brought the center screen back on.

I then did a “power off” from the menu and now back to no screens.

A few things to note…

* There’s power. Brake lights work. Air stays on. Interior lights are on.

* iOS app appears to be able to connect

* I’ve plugged it in and my wall charger shows it’s charging, but iOS app just says “parked” instead of charging.
* Running 2021.12.25.7

I’ve scheduled mobile service but earliest appointment is 10 days out.
Stumped on what else to try.
 
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I tested the 12V battery and it was actually putting out ~14V, so don’t think that’s the issue.

I also did a hard reset of the whole system by disconnecting the 12V battery.

That brought back the center screen but the instrument panel is still off/black.
 
Stumped on what else to try.
Have you tried the un-official Gateway reboot?

Go to Controls, then Service, and click on Wheel Configuration.

Select any other wheel size different than the one your Tesla currently has, (if you have 20' wheels select 22's and if you have 22' select 20').

Let the MCU change the Gateway line of code for your wheels and for it to restart.

After it comes back to life, return to your previous wheel configuration using the same procedure.

This is important because a different wheel size than the one installed on you vehicle, directly impacts the range and energy consumption calculations from the BMS.
 
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No idea *how* someone stumbled across it, but this trick starting to show up in a lot of threads here the last few months. Except this one, strangely:
Maybe I'll "report" this and ohmman will use his moderator superpowers to add it.
 
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Have you tried the un-official Gateway reboot?

Go to Controls, then Service, and click on Wheel Configuration.

Select any other wheel size different than the one your Tesla currently has, (if you have 20' wheels select 22's and if you have 22' select 20').

Let the MCU change the Gateway line of code for your wheels and for it to restart.

After it comes back to life, return to your previous wheel configuration using the same procedure.

This is important because a different wheel size than the one installed on you vehicle, directly impacts the range and energy consumption calculations from the BMS.
Unfortunately no go. Would never save and restart. Tesla Roadside actually suggested this as well, but alas, no luck.

Tow truck coming this afternoon to take it to the service center. ☹️
 
My 2020 Model X (currently has only 12,400 miles) has experienced the same problem - repeated center "black screen" outages + radio function (Sirius) unavailable on screen intermittently.

I did a simple reboot yesterday and the both screens went black. The MX will not drive at all - although there is power for interior lights, AC system is running and car remote Fob will open the doors.

I call Roadside Assistance and the rep only asked me to try one "reboot" with the two scroll wheels - when that didn't work she set up a tow truck pickup and my car is now at a dealer 1 1/2 hours away.

The service rep did not call me when the car arrived.

We don't have a second car and we were not given any information about a rental car replacement or Uber credits.

Very frustrated that a $104,000 car is so unreliable with its electronics - where the electronics are the dominant feature (after EV power) of the vehicle.

Tom in New Paltz, New York
 
My 2020 Model X (currently has only 12,400 miles) has experienced the same problem - repeated center "black screen" outages + radio function (Sirius) unavailable on screen intermittently.

I did a simple reboot yesterday and the both screens went black. The MX will not drive at all - although there is power for interior lights, AC system is running and car remote Fob will open the doors.

I call Roadside Assistance and the rep only asked me to try one "reboot" with the two scroll wheels - when that didn't work she set up a tow truck pickup and my car is now at a dealer 1 1/2 hours away.

The service rep did not call me when the car arrived.

We don't have a second car and we were not given any information about a rental car replacement or Uber credits.

Very frustrated that a $104,000 car is so unreliable with its electronics - where the electronics are the dominant feature (after EV power) of the vehicle.

Tom in New Paltz, New York

Wow that's bad. It's a weekend so Tesla service centers typically aren't open. When mine died on a weekend, the center called on Monday afternoon after they moved it from the lot inside and had diagnosed the issue.

Our S is our only vehicle and other than the one HV front motor short, it has been very reliable and dependable. I'm a bit concerned the X is overall less reliable as a model as compared to the S.

As far as MCU issues, not sure why this issue is popping up on newer cars. They should be able to fix it with a new MCU but Tesla is so cheap now as compared to 4 years ago. They used to really replace everything with little push back to ensure you had a functional car and gave loaners (though only after weekend).
 
Park assist not available shows up quite often, seems to be a software bug, as for the X mine was a corrupted SD card. Needed to be towed to service and would not go into drive for a 2020 LR and was unresponsive. Mine was a update that failed that triggered it.

One thing everyone with matte black wheels should note, if you care, the straps on the tow truck scuffs the matte black finish on the wheels. Make sure you wrap the spokes where the straps touch your wheels with a microfiber to try and prevent the scuffs. All 4 wheels has the imprint of the tow straps after I double check with the tow guy that the straps wont scratch…again only if you care about your matte black wheel finish

SD card replacement involves taking apart the dash and getting behind the screen, so make sure they don’t gouge , scratch and put pry marks/dents all over the place.
 
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* I’ve plugged it in and my wall charger shows it’s charging, but iOS app just says “parked” instead of charging.
I know this isn't really helpful to the situation at hand, but in case you are interested, I'm guessing the app is correct in this case. The wall charger technically only shows that its relay is closed and the vehicle is connected to "shore power." This does NOT mean the vehicle is charging, and in my experience, it is typical when HVAC is on while connected to the charger. Presumably this is because it's more efficient to power the HVAC from the on-board charger than it is to discharge and recharge the battery.
 
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I know this isn't really helpful to the situation at hand, but in case you are interested, I'm guessing the app is correct in this case. The wall charger technically only shows that its relay is closed and the vehicle is connected to "shore power." This does NOT mean the vehicle is charging, and in my experience, it is typical when HVAC is on while connected to the charger. Presumably this is because it's more efficient to power the HVAC from the on-board charger than it is to discharge and recharge the battery.
I have noticed this too and quickly turned my AC off during peak power periods when I was sitting in the car doing some tests.