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Model Y Hansshow V5 Frunk opener help

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I am having the same issue with the Hansshow power frunk v5, it does not latch into the locking mechanism, seems like it does not have enough power bring the frunk down. I tried with spacers and without, I have also adjusted the latch mechanism in at least 20 different ways and it still does not work. I have to manually assist the power frunk to close in order for it to latch correctly. For me, it does open correctly, my only problem is the latching of the lock mechanism. I am in the process of contacting Hansshow to see if there’s a fix to the problem.
I had this same issue a few months back. A two hour install turned into 10. We noticed if we removed the gasket it would close or even helping it when shutting it worked. We updated firmware and it actually came down to Hansshow having to send us a stronger motor. Once installed it works perfectly. Side note here. Hansshow knew about this issue as build quality differences in the vehicles are not equal. The frunk did have a noticeable bow in the hood from factory. The revised motor took care of the problem. They were very easy to work with and even though frustrating to have to spend so much time on a simple install, they did make it right.
 
Does it pull it down but after it 'latches' it bounces back up? That's what happened to me. When the tub wasn't installed the hood would close normally. But as soon as I reinstalled the tub the hood wouldn't close. The gasket around the tub created enough resistance that it activated the anti pinch. What I did was move the latch higher up. You really have to play with the position of the latch
We were sent a revised motor. Had exactly the same issue prior. Swapped the motor and release mechanism and it worked perfect. 8 hours of trouble shooting fixed in 10 mins with different parts.
 
I have a tesla offer one that I installed that is having issues as well. The car is now saying the frunk is open. This is something created after a few weeks after the install so its not the factory issue the Y had on release. Point being, they both have issues.
Hansshowed tech told me NOT to push the hood up if the power latch closes without the hood. otherwise the computer won't now what to believe and requires pulling the power out of the frunk computer module, wait 3 seconds, and plug it back in again, essentially resetting it with the hood all the way up. unfortunately you might have to take out the plastic liners to reset the module
 
I was going to install my frunk kit today but I have the new 15v battery and need to know if their module can handle the increased voltage.

Reached out to HansShow, but acording to last response in WharsApp:

“We will certainly deal with your problem, please rest assured, but since we will have the Spring Festival holiday in China, we will come back to work on February 10th and deal with the messages one by one. Thank you for your support”
 
I wouldn't install it until I hear back from them. 3v variance is platy enough to fry the control module the moment your power it up.
Ya. I am inclined to be cautious about it. Funny I asked them if the power connector or method of getting power changes with the new battery and they showed me the new terminal block which seems cleaner than the old battery hook-up. They had the opportunity to say something about the voltage but didn't. I'll wait to hear back. Thanks.
 
Ya. I am inclined to be cautious about it. Funny I asked them if the power connector or method of getting power changes with the new battery and they showed me the new terminal block which seems cleaner than the old battery hook-up. They had the opportunity to say something about the voltage but didn't. I'll wait to hear back. Thanks.
Perhaps the new fuse block has a different amperage fuse or some sort of voltage regulator built-in. Good luck with the install. As many have said, once you get the driver-side strut installed, it's all downhill from there!
 
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Perhaps the new fuse block has a different amperage fuse or some sort of voltage regulator built-in. Good luck with the install. As many have said, once you get the driver-side strut installed, it's all downhill from there!
I received the unit before the new battery was shipping, so not sure.

Took a long look at many videos and poked around the car itself today. Betting that the strut installations will be least of my worries. Concerned about the latch and full closing actions.
 
I heard back from HansShow just now. No issues with the higher voltage.

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I’ve installed several of Hansshow‘s power frunks for my Model Y customer’s and Ive come across the same quirk when the hood closes but pops back up even though everything is aligned properly. If you adjust the two rubber knobs on the underside of the hood, it will help with lessening the pressure for the hood when closing. 95% of the time it works and latch mechanism is able to fully pull down the hood and close.
 

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Did you guys get this Fixed. The two symptoms I saw for not closing all the way.
1) will not close all the way automatically but will close manually
Root cause: "Suction motor" not pulling the hood down far enough. Look for the boudin cable length.
Corrective action: Adjust the base of the boudin cable to take slack out. if that doesn't work add a zip tie on the boudin cable before the ball.
2) Frunk hood will not go down manually
Root cause: Physical obstruction. Look at the locking movement and determine what is miss aligned.
Corrective actions: Adjust the latch forward backward (Using Washers). Right and left , up and down by loosening the latch bolts and make the adjustment and re tighten.
 
The New Hansshow symptom of the M3 is The trunk will open from the phone and the screen.
but will not close from the phone or the screen. The frunk will only close from the button inside the button.
The fix is to update the softwear version on the ECU. I have to to try it. I will keep you posted.
 
I fought with the hood closing and then popping back up. I spent forever adjusting the lock like everyone is mentioning. This is NOT the problem. If the lock isn’t aligned the hood will not close at all. If your hood closes completely but then pops back up this means the lock isn’t hitting the second stage. For safety the locks have two stages of locking to prevent it from accidentally opening while driving.

The problem is the emergency manual cable that hansshow wants you to add can prevent the release from fully disengaging. The slightest tension on the release and the first stage locks no problem but the second stage won’t.

I just removed the manual release and everything is good. Hopefully this saves someone the hours of head scratching I ran into.

Brian
THANK YOU!!! I spent two hours trying to figure out why even with the latch all the way up it wouldn't close down without me pushing on it. I even read your comment and ignored it because it didn't make sense that could be it. eventually I came back to this and removed the emergency cable and boom. It closed!! like WTF.. anyways I had put the emergency release in then the OEM release and the OEM cable was putting too much pressure, so I switched them around and it's working perfectly now. You're the only comment that suggested this fix. Thank you!
 
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