It does fit with the full 2 inches inserted at the ball, it does mean when in the storage position there might be 2mm of space between the car and rack so it’s a tight fit but carries the bikes fine.
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Model Y Hitch depth
- Thread starter Robb F
- Start date
It does fit with the full 2 inches inserted at the ball, it does mean when in the storage position there might be 2mm of space between the car and rack so it’s a tight fit but carries the bikes fine.
Not sure if the rubber end hitch locks are the new 1/4 turn locks like they're showing on their website, or if they're older locks from a year or 2 ago.
I just got my 1Up rack in December, and the hitch lock that came with the rack has the smaller end so it's easier to fit into the Model Y hitch space.
Hitch lock on the left, add-on locks in the middle, wheel locks on the right for reference.
Wish I had that lock version, I managed to get through it with a hacksaw so it fit, scared me it was going to get stuck, but with a proper vise grip I think I can make it work. Your add-on locks look different, do you have the equipD or one of the first generation 1up or heavy duty versions, wondering if the hitch pin is different between the two and I can just order one like yours, hard to believe the pin will be different otherwise.
SDM44
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I have the Super Duty double rack and add-ons for the Super Duty racks, so that's probably why my locks looks different. I believe the Equip-D is the only rack that uses different locks from all of the other 1Up racks.
This seems like as good a thread as any to jump into.
I want to go see what it would take to get my old Saris hitch on the back of my Y.
If I want the hatch to clear the rack in the up (normal) position, I'll need to extend my hitch a minimum of 4"
I made the following rough measurements. (by marking a piece of wood stuck into the 2" hitch receiver as far as it would go.
0" datum is my best estimate of the center of the 5/8" pin hole.
from fwd to aft:
-4" : the plastic tub hanging down - likely the lower trunk space
-3 1/8" fwd end of hitch receiver tube
0": center of pin hole
+1 5/8 fat end of hitch receiver tube
+5 1/8 roughly the aft most extent of the bumper
~+13 1/4" closest my Saris rack would be if sharing the hitch pin
~+17 1/4" furthest out the hatch swing
since I need a 2" to 1 1/4 hitch adapter anyway I might buy one with a 4" extension.
the thing that surprised me was the lack of space for the hitch pin between the receiver tube and the electrical bracket. as others before have mentioned, the Saris locking end doesn't fit. My saris lock is about 2 1/4" long. I'm thinking there might be about 2" available.
I want to go see what it would take to get my old Saris hitch on the back of my Y.
If I want the hatch to clear the rack in the up (normal) position, I'll need to extend my hitch a minimum of 4"
I made the following rough measurements. (by marking a piece of wood stuck into the 2" hitch receiver as far as it would go.
0" datum is my best estimate of the center of the 5/8" pin hole.
from fwd to aft:
-4" : the plastic tub hanging down - likely the lower trunk space
-3 1/8" fwd end of hitch receiver tube
0": center of pin hole
+1 5/8 fat end of hitch receiver tube
+5 1/8 roughly the aft most extent of the bumper
~+13 1/4" closest my Saris rack would be if sharing the hitch pin
~+17 1/4" furthest out the hatch swing
since I need a 2" to 1 1/4 hitch adapter anyway I might buy one with a 4" extension.
the thing that surprised me was the lack of space for the hitch pin between the receiver tube and the electrical bracket. as others before have mentioned, the Saris locking end doesn't fit. My saris lock is about 2 1/4" long. I'm thinking there might be about 2" available.
I thought I would resurrect this post. I really want to get the Saris SuperClamp EX 4. I have looked as other bikes racks and I really like the compactness of the Superclamp. When you get into 4 bikes the other manufacturers stick out much further.
Anyway, I was doing some digging on the locking hitch pin issue. I came across this locking pin that has the lock with a 90 degree orientation that appears to allow for easy locking and unlocking if the pin was installed from the right side. It is noted to be specific to Saris bike.
Has anyone tried this solution or any other solutions that may work? This is the only thing holding me back from buying the rack.
Anyway, I was doing some digging on the locking hitch pin issue. I came across this locking pin that has the lock with a 90 degree orientation that appears to allow for easy locking and unlocking if the pin was installed from the right side. It is noted to be specific to Saris bike.
Has anyone tried this solution or any other solutions that may work? This is the only thing holding me back from buying the rack.
I went out yesterday and put on my thule swing 4 bike rack for the first time. No problems but as I expected the thule locking hitch pin is too long. I've ordered the thule passive lock strap as a work around. Looks to be a basic cable lock with a puck attached. You wrap the cable around the bike rack and the puck end goes in the car.
I can verify that this product fits into the OEM hitch on the Model Y:
"Master Lock 1480DAT Stainless Steel Receiver Lock for 5/88221" -- look it up on amazon
My issue now is I can't fit a hitch tightener/stabilizer in the confined space of the OEM hitch/bumper carveout area. The result is the rack I have will bouce around and cause a lot of noise. Does anyone have a solution? See picture below.
"Master Lock 1480DAT Stainless Steel Receiver Lock for 5/88221" -- look it up on amazon
My issue now is I can't fit a hitch tightener/stabilizer in the confined space of the OEM hitch/bumper carveout area. The result is the rack I have will bouce around and cause a lot of noise. Does anyone have a solution? See picture below.
Tedkidd
Member
Got a car, and the hitch and rack work great!
(waived off the performance order when they called and told me it was coming a month early, in the middle of the arctic blast snowstorm, and they wanted $800 to deliver it from Kisco. Fortuitous, as on delivery date there was a snowstorm. Also, shortly after Elon dropped the sr car price $2k, then cancelled it altogether. ...After he did that I grabbed one out of inventory, and picked it up 4 days later. Real wheel with 19's is really good in the snow! We took it on a 4800 mile 13 day road trip, it was great! Turns out it's not so great carrying bikes and a box - thirsty and slow charging. Probably will trade for an Austin car.)
But the 1up rack works great!
I wrapped electrical tape around the stanchions that rub slightly against the matte bumper plastic when in the full up position - but mostly leave rack in the "mostly up" position so the tailgate is useable if I'm not carrying bikes, and don't remove the rack.
Installed the stopping collar so the rack inserts just enough for the locking pin. That collar piece is great to have as the bikes can be a little close, locking pin is nice piece of mind too, though I only use it on trips.
If my bikes have flats instead of clips I use an old toe clip strap to keep the pedals fixed so they don't risk bumping the car (just in case....), and so they don't spin the cranks, etc. You can see the extra one hanging off the back of the rack:
Rack in "mostly up" position:
Yes, same problem with my Swagman bike rack which also uses a threaded pin and snap-on lock. Only answer so far is to shorten the pin and forget the lock, and rely on the spring washer to keep everything tight. Was wondering if anyone has any ideas about relocating the electrical connector. I have not had the time to take off body parts to see what might be possible.
I had the same problem with my Kuat rack--difficult getting the pin to fit. I solved it be getting an aftermarket pin that you put in from the passenger's side and the lock is small enough to fit on the driver's side. This is the pin/lock that worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T9N6DNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CURT 23502 Right-Angle Stainless Steel Trailer Hitch Lock, 5/8-Inch Pin Diameter, Fits 2-Inch Receiver
I use a similar rack with integrated expansion plate to eliminate wobble. I love how easy it is to lock.
