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Model Y hitch (Draw-Tite)
- Thread starter jacksonlui
- Start date
I don't know how much it would be to add wiring and hitch with some 3rd party installer but if it's too close with Tesla's price I would go with Tesla as they would upgrade the software as well. It all depends what the price difference will be.
That is not the factory hitch. You will be hard-pressed to find an install video of one, though I suppose there may be someone out there who had one installed by an SC who might be willing to take off their rear panel and show us what’s there. Lot of work, though.
On a hunch I checked the UHaul site, and it looks like they’re installing the Draw-Tite hitch on the Model Y. Here in LA it’s about $477 all in (parts and labor). The cheapest I’ve found for an independent shop installing the EcoHitch out here is $400 labor (if anyone knows a cheaper installer please let me know) plus of course about $330 for the hitch. And of course SC will install the factory hitch for $1200. Those seem to be the option currently.
Does that $477 including wiring as well or just the hitch itself? While I have had good luck with non-factory hitches in the past, I have had some fights with dealers more about the wiring rather than the hitch. A few years ago on an MDX, I had nothing but issues with a non-factory trailer wiring connector. I am pretty sure the issue was with the car, but the dealer (and Acura) kept blaming it on the wiring harness which was from a good company.
So when I bought my next Acura, I went with a different hitch as the Acura one didn't offer what I was looking for, but I bought the Acura one and no issues so far. Came out cheaper, but more importantly better, for me.
If you can only get the software update with the Tesla hitch, I'll just order it from the factory if I go with the MYP and be done with it. I also thought I read somewhere on this forum that if you remove the bumper cover you need to have the sensor recalibrated. I am new to Teslas but wouldn't that seem to apply here or is it a non-issue if you don't?
So when I bought my next Acura, I went with a different hitch as the Acura one didn't offer what I was looking for, but I bought the Acura one and no issues so far. Came out cheaper, but more importantly better, for me.
If you can only get the software update with the Tesla hitch, I'll just order it from the factory if I go with the MYP and be done with it. I also thought I read somewhere on this forum that if you remove the bumper cover you need to have the sensor recalibrated. I am new to Teslas but wouldn't that seem to apply here or is it a non-issue if you don't?
Wiring harness on the UHaul site is an additional $99. Unclear if this involves splicing existing wires or tapping them as some have.
Towing software seems to be available only with a factory or SC installed hitch.
Hadn’t heard about sensor recalibration but I believe the ones on the rear panel are just parking sensors.
Towing software seems to be available only with a factory or SC installed hitch.
Hadn’t heard about sensor recalibration but I believe the ones on the rear panel are just parking sensors.
avi7116
Member
I got quote for 501$, scheduled in Dublin,ca on 16th ,I got reference from my neighbor, this is the cheapest quote I've got in bay area.
I did some research on yelp about this installation center, someone already installed hitch his tesla-3 and he looks happy.
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Thanks for the pic @MikeInFL
If Tesla replaces their bumper beam then I feel good about any aftermarket option which does the same.
I'd go with a well known company like Draw-Tite.
The EcoHitch is also a great option.
We three great options. It's really just an option of keeping the bumper beam and not keeping it and both can be had for under 1K. The OEM option is great for those people who dont want to deal with all this and just want a hitch which comes with the car.
It really is a pretty easy install for a capable DIY person, it will just take more time. I did it with a few beers, no jacks, and really took my time to hand thread everything to avoid cross threading. I've found a few screws which I thought should've been more tight and allowed me to understand my car a little more. I feel the car is better than when it came off the line.
Also, in terms of the plastic panel, I went ahead and cut off all the tabs except one on the top and bottom. I epoxied 2 horizontal magnets and double layered them so it's closer to the hitch and works great. It's not touching the hitch but it's strong enough to hold it in place. I can remove the panel by prying with just my finger on a corner.
I bought these magnets off Amazon for $6.
Don't be afraid to experiment because a new panel is just $15 from Tesla.
I bought these magnets off Amazon for $6.
Pack of 4 Strong Neodymium Bar Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Rare-Earth Metal Neodymium Magnet - 60 x 10 x 5 mm: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Pack of 4 Strong Neodymium Bar Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Rare-Earth Metal Neodymium Magnet - 60 x 10 x 5 mm: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
This is false and misleading. The guy in the video clearly states it's aftermarket and the one they've installed is the ecohitch which they've also linked.
Hey all, resurrecting this thread as Im a new to me 2020 MYP owner looking to also install a hitch for bikes/harbor freight trailer for dirt bikes, fishing kayak) towing.
Does anyone know if 2020 is same hitch used as the 2021 ? For some reason Uhaul / draw-tite list their hitch as 2021 but NOT 2020. Wouldnt they be the same ?
Few more follow on questions/discussion -
OEM/draw-tite both remove the AL bumper beam. Eco hitch retains it. Think removing the crash bar would affect minor structural rigidity of the plastic bumper cover (since essentially NOTHING would be behind it very close) ?? Like if you backed into something slowly would it dent the bumper cover easier since no bumper crash bar were back there ? I know, speculation for us all (hopefully). I guess if its good enough for Tesla on a new vehicle then it should be OK to also remove the crash bar when doing a home install too...
If I bought a used Tesla OEM hitch + wire wire connector harness - could I connect it into the OEM wire harness and somehow download the tow software ? Is anything else required to use the Tesla OEM hitch (longer/shorter bolts, other brackets, ect ... ?). Is having tow software necessary to connect wiring if using OEM hitch/harness ? OEM hitch w/harness come up for sale every now and then.
Range - Any real world input here towing / bike rack ? for some reason my 20 MYP shows about 260 mi on a 100% complete full charge. Im not too worried about it because the computer is prob calculating based on the last bit of data, which is always an F1 race (new owner, ect... impossible NOT to juice it everywhere) .. however ... when towing, Id be far more responsible, put it in chill mode so I dont dump the dirt bikes out of the trailer, ect ... I would need to travel approx 120 miles max. Maybe 100 of that would be hwy (worst case). And by hwy in Atlanta I mean if you arent doing 80 mph then you are a moving construction cone and I dont drive that way since its against my religion and sanity. I could prob dial it back to 70 mph max. If it cant do 120 mi at 70 mph towing about 1000# harbor freight trailer w/kayak or a few dirt bikes then i would just take the jeep. which sucks because i really want to be using the MYP for everything ... but i also understand that zero tesla owners live near places people ride dirt bikes so may be best to just take the jeep for those days...
Last - a general question - is Teslarati a good vendor ? I actually ordered the eco hitch/wire harness via their site but havent heard anything back from them. Wondering if they are a legit place to work with as I see they sell quite a few parts for these but the lack of call back/email back is concerning me...
Does anyone know if 2020 is same hitch used as the 2021 ? For some reason Uhaul / draw-tite list their hitch as 2021 but NOT 2020. Wouldnt they be the same ?
Few more follow on questions/discussion -
OEM/draw-tite both remove the AL bumper beam. Eco hitch retains it. Think removing the crash bar would affect minor structural rigidity of the plastic bumper cover (since essentially NOTHING would be behind it very close) ?? Like if you backed into something slowly would it dent the bumper cover easier since no bumper crash bar were back there ? I know, speculation for us all (hopefully). I guess if its good enough for Tesla on a new vehicle then it should be OK to also remove the crash bar when doing a home install too...
If I bought a used Tesla OEM hitch + wire wire connector harness - could I connect it into the OEM wire harness and somehow download the tow software ? Is anything else required to use the Tesla OEM hitch (longer/shorter bolts, other brackets, ect ... ?). Is having tow software necessary to connect wiring if using OEM hitch/harness ? OEM hitch w/harness come up for sale every now and then.
Range - Any real world input here towing / bike rack ? for some reason my 20 MYP shows about 260 mi on a 100% complete full charge. Im not too worried about it because the computer is prob calculating based on the last bit of data, which is always an F1 race (new owner, ect... impossible NOT to juice it everywhere) .. however ... when towing, Id be far more responsible, put it in chill mode so I dont dump the dirt bikes out of the trailer, ect ... I would need to travel approx 120 miles max. Maybe 100 of that would be hwy (worst case). And by hwy in Atlanta I mean if you arent doing 80 mph then you are a moving construction cone and I dont drive that way since its against my religion and sanity. I could prob dial it back to 70 mph max. If it cant do 120 mi at 70 mph towing about 1000# harbor freight trailer w/kayak or a few dirt bikes then i would just take the jeep. which sucks because i really want to be using the MYP for everything ... but i also understand that zero tesla owners live near places people ride dirt bikes so may be best to just take the jeep for those days...
Last - a general question - is Teslarati a good vendor ? I actually ordered the eco hitch/wire harness via their site but havent heard anything back from them. Wondering if they are a legit place to work with as I see they sell quite a few parts for these but the lack of call back/email back is concerning me...
Looks like a very capable hitch for towing, with a tongue weight rating that greatly exceeds the max allowed weight of the tow vehicle.
I don’t see information on that page for the vertical load rating of the hitch. And the manufacturers web page does not provide that information Draw-Tite | 76430 | Class III Trailer Hitch
The vertical load rating is what you want to know when calculating if the hitch can safely support a bike rack + bike(s). But unless you are intending to carry two heavy e bikes, in all likelihood you will be fine.
@a2t2 I think 20% range loss for one bike.
@ecarfan I'm only carrying one 32 lb bike and the rack is about 40 lbs so I should be good.
I used this rack with a similar hitch on my older car with 3 bikes from san diego to snow summit and it was fine the entire way.
I'm planning on getting a 1up single rack when they are available, that should further reduce the weight.
@ecarfan I'm only carrying one 32 lb bike and the rack is about 40 lbs so I should be good.
I used this rack with a similar hitch on my older car with 3 bikes from san diego to snow summit and it was fine the entire way.
I'm planning on getting a 1up single rack when they are available, that should further reduce the weight.
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