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Model Y LR built in Giga Austin!!

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That said.. no real surprise its that easy when you really are just paying MSRP. From a price point, I can do much better price-wise being able to negotiate and making dealers compete against each other to offer me their lowest price. It's not my goal to get the absolutely lowest price, as there will always be a lower price. But if I can locate one dealer offering me the exact same vehicle for thousands less than another dealer why would I pay the higher price? What's crazy about this forum is people are downvoting me for saying this.. but those hypocrites are literally doing the exact same thing when they submitting quotes to Carvana, Vroom, Driveway, Givemethevin, CarBuyerUSA, etc.. trying to get the MOST money for their old vehicle. They are searching different dealers looking the BEST price.

My Model Y is literally the only car I paid sticker price for. The 2018 Honda I had before my Model Y.. had an MSRP at $31,000 and I was able to purchase it for $27,000 with just a few emails to random dealers looking for the cheapest price. I literally emailed a few local dealers during my lunchtime at the office.. agreed to a price an hour later (including my trade) and bought the Honda that evening after work.

Wouldn't be great if you could bypass the middleman at the dealership, can just call the factory directly? They could sell to you at the same price they sell to the dealers.

...aaaaaaand that's what buying a Tesla is like
 
I never said it was horrific. I said they gave me an even lower offer (by about $2,000) than what they originally quoted.

Next time before you rush so quickly to downvote my post.. take some time to actually read what I wrote.

Its important to do that if we are going to have an honest conversation and not just be a bunch of fanboys.


For your information, I checked Carvana and Vroom before initially agreeing on Tesla's initial offer. The others were higher by $600-$800.. but the added sales tax credit while trading in made the one-stop transaction made easier and initially more attractive. Once they lowered their offer.. at the last minute.. I was no longer interested in trading my vehicle in. They literally lowered the offer their offer by $2,000 the day before I set to accept delivery.
So who actually played a game? Big or small your car had a dent you didn’t disclose when quoted. As a used buyer I To would negotiate a correct price. If it was as simple as $25 as you noted maybe you should have fixed it?
 
So who actually played a game? Big or small your car had a dent you didn’t disclose when quoted. As a used buyer I To would negotiate a correct price. If it was as simple as $25 as you noted maybe you should have fixed it?
I disclosed the dent when the original quote was issued. Where did you read that I had not disclosed it? Or did you just make that up? I didn't fix it, because there was no need for me to fix it. Which was verified when the Honda dealer bought the vehicle.. with the dent.. that I physically pointed out for them IN-PERSON.. and still wrote me a check for $4,000 more than Tesla's low-ball price.



***FYI.. this is my last post on my trade in. As someone else pointed out.. I'll stick to the thread subject.***
 
The most satisfying part of purchasing at Tesla was actually the delivery experience.

Ha ha - that was the absolute worst part of the purchase for me

They were supposed to call me when enroute, but didn't
They were supposed to park it round the back, but didn't

Instead I just happened to look at the security cameras (I wfh, but in the very back of the house) and saw the vehicle just sitting there on the front of the house and the dickhead who delivered it parked it too close to a fire hydrant and directly opposite a painter's van parked on the other side making it a sitting duck for all the commercial vehicles that come barreling down our street. When I reviewed the footage, he'd parked it, taken a bunch of CYA pics then effed off back to base

I'd read the manual so I knew I had to to accept delivery, then got in the vehicle and it asked me for the key cards. I didn't know they were in the glovebox so had to call the SA to figure that out just to get it off the street

First World Problem I know, but a pretty lousy end to a four month wait. Other than that though I love the vehicle, had few if any problems with it and really liked the online-buy-for-a-fixed-price system
 
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I've never had this horrific experience at a dealership. Maybe some people do not like negotiating, but I look at it for what it is.. a transaction, nothing more, nothing less. They are trying to make as much profit on each sale.. I am trying to pay the lowest price on every car I purchase. This is not a surprise to anyone. I have no loyalty to any dealer, or brand, or particular vehicle. I am simply shopping for the best value on the vehicle I want to purchase. This means I literally have hundreds of dealers to choose from and it's advantageous to me that they have to compete on price to get my money.

I also don't just walk into dealerships looking at shiny new cars. I do my homework first. This means searching around the internet for what prices others are paying, finding the dealerships that honor the lowest pricing and I have my financing pre-approved. This is all done before I walk into the dealership. Most importantly, before I ever step foot into a dealership, I email dealers inquiring about their OTD "out-the-door" price. This is their itemized price with all the extras including.. delivery, fees, discounts, markups, taxes, tags, and title. Dealers will either give you the pricing upfront.. or if they refuse.. I move on to another dealership that will. And being able to move on to another dealer is exactly what makes the dealership model attractive to me. I do not have to purchase my car from a specific dealer or at a specific price. I can always find a cheaper price.. just takes a little homework to find it.

Once I find a dealer who agrees with the OTD pricing I'm looking for.. I head to the dealer to purchase the car. Outside of the Finance guy offering the usual extra market & protection packages.. which I've already told him upfront I'm going to say: "No to everything". I bring home that new car in about an hour. This was precisely the scenario when I bought my wife's ID.4 for MSRP about 8 months ago. And the dealer even matched the Carvana trade-in quote.. which saved us another $2,000 in sales tax. The exact same experience for the 5-6 cars I bought before. Do your homework, know what price you are willing to pay, treat it like a business transaction, and move on with your life.

Whereas when I purchased my Model Y.. I was very surprised to see Tesla was the one who wanted to play games. The internet offer for my trade-in was original $21,000 when I put down the $100 deposit and reserved my 2021 Model Y. When it was time to take delivery of the Y.. the offer magically dropped to $19,000. Their reason was because of a dime-sized dent in one of the pictures.. a dent any paintless dent repair shop would fix for $25. I know this because random PDR guys in parking lots have offered to fix it for $25. I ended up refusing Tesla's low ball offer.. listed the car on Facebook Marketplace and sold the same vehicle just 2 days later to a local Honda dealership for $23,000. Already $4,000 more than what Tesla offered. As far as the dent.. the Honda dealer laughed at it. Then the Honda dealer even went a step further and helped me refund the prepaid maintenance & extended warranty I had purchased on the Honda. Something I was not aware you could do. A week later I got an additional $1,200 check from Honda Financial.

All done.. I saved over $5,000 by avoiding Tesla lack of dealership veneer & polish by refusing to trade in my car to them.
So.. did you buy Honda if their service is so great?
 
Back on track - Munro separates the structural pack from the vehicle...this is insane.


They are using self-piercing rivets to put the top on the battery. So no just opening it up and then closing it back up. (Which I think you can do on the 2170 based Model 3/Y packs.) It will be interesting to see how destructive it is to get the top off.
 
For all you folks critical of Tesla QC, I have a story for you.
I have a Model Y on order, but mostly because I decided that a lesser car would do, I bought a new Chevy Bolt on Saturday from the dealer and drove it home 30 miles.

Next morning I found service alert lights, and a few hours later when it dawned on me to look under the hood I found a filthy compartment and an EMPTY coolant reservoir for the battery cooling circuit. This 2022 new Bolt was under recall for a new battery due to the spate of battery fires, so the battery had been swapped out one day earlier. A battery swap entails drainage of coolant, swap, then refill of fluid. So they either did not refill or the fluid leaked out very quickly.

Dealer error is not in dispute. I call it dealer incompetence, but whatever. I notified the dealership, and said I was fine with either returning the car for a full refund or an exchange of a new Bolt that had been prepped correctly. Each option was refused by the dealership. They instead offered to bring the car in and add coolant. As far as they are concerned, that is all that is needed.
 
For all you folks critical of Tesla QC, I have a story for you.
I have a Model Y on order, but mostly because I decided that a lesser car would do, I bought a new Chevy Bolt on Saturday from the dealer and drove it home 30 miles.

Next morning I found service alert lights, and a few hours later when it dawned on me to look under the hood I found a filthy compartment and an EMPTY coolant reservoir for the battery cooling circuit. This 2022 new Bolt was under recall for a new battery due to the spate of battery fires, so the battery had been swapped out one day earlier. A battery swap entails drainage of coolant, swap, then refill of fluid. So they either did not refill or the fluid leaked out very quickly.

Dealer error is not in dispute. I call it dealer incompetence, but whatever. I notified the dealership, and said I was fine with either returning the car for a full refund or an exchange of a new Bolt that had been prepped correctly. Each option was refused by the dealership. They instead offered to bring the car in and add coolant. As far as they are concerned, that is all that is needed.
Dealers are scum in this country as well...especially Volvo
 
Model Y LR delivery from Austin this week.
Serial 44xx
LI battery, parcel shelf, Ryzen CPU, NO matrix lights.
Drivers side door and front fender not perfect, but acceptable. No other issues noted. Door looks adjustable, fender (top gaps near windshield) is a just live with it thing.
Paid cash, so I wanted to inspect prior to delivery.
They store the cars in the church parking lot on McNeil Rd. Mine was unlocked and I gave it a good checkout prior to pickup the next day.
At the service center on pickup day, just for fun I tried to get them to open it up for inspection. They would not. Go inspect prior if you want to get inside.
Cleanup was adequate but not great. They appear to be a little swamped with delivery (3 of us at the same time).

In general OK experience, but the wild fluctuations in EDD and the no-look-before-you-pay things will become non-starters when they have competition.

Don't forget you have to pay sales tax when you register the car for Texas plates.
 
For all you folks critical of Tesla QC, I have a story for you.
I have a Model Y on order, but mostly because I decided that a lesser car would do, I bought a new Chevy Bolt on Saturday from the dealer and drove it home 30 miles.

Next morning I found service alert lights, and a few hours later when it dawned on me to look under the hood I found a filthy compartment and an EMPTY coolant reservoir for the battery cooling circuit. This 2022 new Bolt was under recall for a new battery due to the spate of battery fires, so the battery had been swapped out one day earlier. A battery swap entails drainage of coolant, swap, then refill of fluid. So they either did not refill or the fluid leaked out very quickly.

Dealer error is not in dispute. I call it dealer incompetence, but whatever. I notified the dealership, and said I was fine with either returning the car for a full refund or an exchange of a new Bolt that had been prepped correctly. Each option was refused by the dealership. They instead offered to bring the car in and add coolant. As far as they are concerned, that is all that is needed.
Not great. But other than cleaning the compartment and adding coolant what else need to be done?
 
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Not great. But other than cleaning the compartment and adding coolant what else need to be done?

Well if the battery was damaged from driving around with no coolant it would need to be replaced, what is that $20,000?

The tough part is it would be hard to know how much premature damage and premature wear happened. Maybe zero damage. Maybe the battery will fail at 10k miles, or 70k miles or 150k miles. Would really suck to have this on a car you paid to buy new.
 
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Well if the battery was damaged from driving around with no coolant it would need to be replaced, what is that $20,000?

The tough part is it would be hard to know how much premature damage and premature wear happened. Maybe zero damage. Maybe the battery will fail at 10k miles, or 70k miles or 150k miles. Would really suck to have this on a car you paid to buy new.
While I agree this could happen, the car was driven 30 miles and the battery sensor tripped. One would assume that sensor detected the condition early enough to prevent damage or else there is serious design flaw. In addition, the battery has an 8 year/100K mile warranty.

With that said, I hope the owner and dealership can come to some sort of agreement.
 
Not great. But other than cleaning the compartment and adding coolant what else need to be done?

Think about it this way: you go to buy a car and there are two choices. They are identical expect one of the EVs had been driven about 100 miles without coolant in the battery circuit (coolant pump, chiller, battery pack.) Which car do you choose ? I'll guess you pick the car that has not been driven coolant free. The dealer turns to you and says "how much of a discount do you want to take the other car ?"

It it helps, imagine the EVs are Teslas (without Octovalves.)
 
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Think about it this way: you go to buy a car and there are two choices. They are identical expect one of the EVs had been driven about 100 miles without coolant in the battery circuit (coolant pump, chiller, battery pack.) Which car do you choose ? I'll guess you pick the car that has not been driven coolant free. The dealer turns to you and says "how much of a discount do you want to take the other car ?"

It it helps, imagine the EVs are Teslas (without Octovalves.)
Well, I hope you and the dealer come to an agreement.

But it is the fallacy that any previous car anyone has owned had never been damaged and repaired. A new car can have damage or repairs AND the dealer or manufacturer does not need to reveal it unless it exceeds a large number. The car industry pays a lot to get these things written into your state's laws.

 
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