What is your build date.
I didn’t even try to install mud flaps. My bolt was broken. My car was build 3/22
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Model Y Mud Flaps (Rear Bolt Issue)
- Thread starter SDDizzle
- Start date
I didn’t even try to install mud flaps. My bolt was broken. My car was build 3/22
I hope I don't run into this problem. I just picked up my MYP as well with a 6/22 build date. My flaps arrive tomorrow so I'll be giving it a go later in the evening. Fingers crossed!
I had read a number of posts referencing the difficulty of removing those rear bolts. So I was cognizant of the issue and had seen a video recommending how to apply lubricants to help prevent the problem. I put the first flap on with no problem and did not need to apply any lubricant. The videos always stressed that if you felt an increase in the resistance that then you applied the lubricant, ran the bolt back into the nut to spread the lubricant, backed out some more until you felt an increase in the resistance and repeat until bolts removed. I didn’t feel an increase in the resistance with the first bolt and didn’t feel an increase in resistance with the second one either. But in turning the second bolt, I heard a snap and the nut was dislodged. I considered several options but the bolt was out enough that I could slide the mudflap underneath it and it would be snug, not tight but snug. So I cut a slit in the mudflap to allow it to slide into position underneath the washer and bolt. Not a perfect solution but I’m gonna leave it like that and see what happens.
Moral of the story is to use the lubricant early and often.
Moral of the story is to use the lubricant early and often.
Hello, I tried to peel back the panel behind the rear wheel but noticed that there was another bolt (similar to the problematic bolt) after the second plastic fastener. Did you have to touch that too?
Bassmanbrett
Member
Just sent my car to the dealership to fix this bolt issue. I had the spinning bolt on both sides.
My problem is that I needed them off to install a 3rd party hitch. They ended up tightening them back on. Since the bolt was so tight, I thought that they had fixed the spot weld on the nut. I tried removing the bolt again only to have it keep spinning once it got to a certain looseness.
I tried setting up another appointment stating I want it off and they are sitting there scratching their heads as to what is wrong.
I may have found a solution in getting this bolt off and on without them.. hear me out:
Grab one of those flat and wide rubber bands and wind it around the spinning nut. The nut the bolt is attached to is circular but it seems to have some indentations around it that may give the rubber band somethign to grip onto. Once you get the rubber band around the nut enough, grab some needle nose pliars to hold it into place. The rubber I am thinking should give enough grip to loosen then bolt. If not, hit the bolt with some WD40 and try again.
Going to try this later ill update with results.
My problem is that I needed them off to install a 3rd party hitch. They ended up tightening them back on. Since the bolt was so tight, I thought that they had fixed the spot weld on the nut. I tried removing the bolt again only to have it keep spinning once it got to a certain looseness.
I tried setting up another appointment stating I want it off and they are sitting there scratching their heads as to what is wrong.
I may have found a solution in getting this bolt off and on without them.. hear me out:
Grab one of those flat and wide rubber bands and wind it around the spinning nut. The nut the bolt is attached to is circular but it seems to have some indentations around it that may give the rubber band somethign to grip onto. Once you get the rubber band around the nut enough, grab some needle nose pliars to hold it into place. The rubber I am thinking should give enough grip to loosen then bolt. If not, hit the bolt with some WD40 and try again.
Going to try this later ill update with results.
gr8tdane24
Member
Or use some needle nose vise grips to keep the nut from spinning like I did with mine. They are your best friend.
gr8tdane24
Member
These are the ones I use (made in Spain with top quality alloy jaws that wont deform):
Here's a budget option (but as I always say, buy once cry once):
fstop11
Member
Since I didn't see this mentioned in this thread yet, I thought I'd share my solution. I was being careful loosening the bolt on my 6/22-build MYLR, but it still broke loose on one side. I was thinking of using a hack saw to remove the bolt, but then I tried slathering the nut with JB Weld. I held it flush against the panel for about a minute, then let it sit for about 18 hours, and I was able to unscrew it and install the mudflaps without the nut breaking free.
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fstop11
Member
I had to open up the wheel well by carefully pulling back the liner. I didn't get it open very much, but it was enough to get a couple fingers inside. I tried applying the JB Weld with a chopstick at first, but fingers were more successful.
Thanks for the response. I've read that some people have managed to get limited access to that bolt through the trim on the bottom of the bumper, but not through the wheal well trim. I'll have to look at that to see if it gives me better access. Glad you got the problem solved for your bolt!
gr8tdane24
Member
I also accessed mine through the wheel well. The fender liner is a soft felt-like material that is easy to bend out of the way and gets you pretty good access to the loose nut, even with the rear wheel still on the vehicle.
fstop11
Member
I tried the bumper trim too, but I found the wheel well to be the best option. It wasn't enough room to get a pair of channel locks or even needle nose pliars inside without removing the wheel, but it was just enough to get my fingers on the nut.
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