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Model Y Performance on TST 19" Wheels from TSportline - Pics Attached

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Looks great. How is the OD from your original tire versus the OD of the new tire? New tires 'look' a little smaller, don't quite fill the wheel well as much?

I have an MYP on order, and I feel I very much want to do a similar mod and get rid of the 21"s...
Can you define OD? Not sure what you're referring to. Outer diameter maybe? They definitely don't fill the wheel well out as much, but the sidewall is a lot thicker and the ride is greatly improved as a result.

I am installing a set of Mountain Pass coilovers, and will be dropping the car by maybe a 1/2" or full inch. Model Y P on comfortable suspension, lightweight wheels, and fat sidewalls, = heaven for me.
 
Lovely ride OP. Silver-wheeled Model Y's unite!

I'm across the pond, and had fully intended to powder coat the gemini's immediately, but they're growing on me more especially given the prevalence of dark wheels. I think I'll run a set of anthracite turbine replicas or something else in the winter, and keep these nice for milder months.

View attachment 798749
On the white paint, the silver of the uncovered Gemini's looks decent IMO. Other paint color, it doesn't work well IMO.
 
So here's some not so thorough but still useful data. Above is after switching to the 19" wheels, below is on the Uberturbines. Obviously the Uberturbines have actually *gained* some wh/mi due to accumulating further data from the 19's, so the Wh/mi is likely a lot less than is shown here.

Basically from day 1 of ownership I left trip B alone, and as soon as getting the 19's on I reset trip A to collect some data. Suffice to say range has most certainly increased.

IMG_8655.jpg
 
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So here's some not so thorough but still useful data. Above is after switching to the 19" wheels, below is on the Uberturbines. Obviously the Uberturbines have actually *gained* some wh/mi due to accumulating further data from the 19's, so the Wh/mi is likely a lot less than is shown here.

Basically from day 1 of ownership I left trip B alone, and as soon as getting the 19's on I reset trip A to collect some data. Suffice to say range has most certainly increased.

View attachment 800473

What wheel setting do you have in the computer?

If you are getting 320 Wh/mi with the 19s vs 305 Wh/mi lifetime, seems that range has decreased rather than increased? Using more energy per mile than before the change.

Asking as I'm seeing similar results which is contrary to what was expected...
 
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What wheel setting do you have in the computer?

If you are getting 320 Wh/mi with the 19s vs 305 Wh/mi lifetime, seems that range has decreased rather than increased? Using more energy per mile than before the change.

Asking as I'm seeing similar results which is contrary to what was expected...
Yes, I've got the 19's set in the computer.

I had a brainfart. Trip A is the lifetime which was never reset since I got the car. Trip B is when I stuck on the 19's. Trip B has been of course gradually been pulling down the average wh/mi of Trip A as there's no way to "freeze" it, so technically the original wh/mi consumption was a lot higher before.
 
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Yes, I've got the 19's set in the computer.

I had a brainfart. Trip A is the lifetime which was never reset since I got the car. Trip B is when I stuck on the 19's. Trip B has been of course gradually been pulling down the average wh/mi of Trip A as there's no way to "freeze" it, so technically the original wh/mi consumption was a lot higher before.

Ok, that makes way more sense!

I just reset my trip since installing the 19 TSTs this weekend because the data was never going to get to an apples-to-apples comparison due to starting elevation. My "lifetime" trip was reset at delivery but we reside at over 1K elevation whereas the 19s were installed closer to sea level so had an additional uphill journey that made the Wh/mi higher for that trip (even as overall total was inching downwards from when I had the original 21s). Not going to look at it for the next 1,100 miles or so and see what the numbers look like then. I have mine set to 20s (because the graphic more resembles my actual setup vs the 19 Geminis 😂) but should be OK since the wheel/tire setup have similar profiles (other than weight) but maybe that is also having an impact on what is being displayed.

The odd thing is, my "trip for 19s" will change much more dramatically than my "current trip" which doesn't make any sense to me given it is supposed to be average consumption over more miles...

For example, this morning, I had trips open during my 7 mile drive (first down a 900+ft elevation hill then back home) where the Wh/mi for the first half is negative and the return drive is 600+ off the charts.

Current trip was hovering in the high 200s during 7 mile drive.
Trip for 19s went up over 320 (which is supposed to be an average over more miles).
Overall Wh/mi was holding around 310.

How does Trip for 19s go up HIGHER than the Overall Wh/mi when the Current trip is LOWER than the Overall Wh/mi? 🤷‍♂️

Anyway, thanks for sharing your photos! Helped in making my choice to go with the 19s vs the 20s and happy with the improved ride and looking forward to seeing consumption figures improve, even slightly. 👍
 
Just an update on this thread. Still super happy with this wheel and tire combo.

Tires are still happy after 8 months and 6,800 miles.

I've gently curbed the front wheels on both sides, which is fine, because now I don't have to care or worry much about them. This is my daily driver / make boring driving a non issue - car, so I really don't care too much about that.

Efficiency after running them now has been averaging around 289wh/mi, so even lower than what I originally reported, even in the winter temperatures.

To anyone considering dropping a P or a LR onto 19's... if you're on the edge, I'll happily be the one to push you over. I couldn't be happier on these wheels.

Tires are still solid, but I'll be looking to replace probably by 10k miles, or at least will be examining them. Have rotated them twice so far (square setup FTW). For the next set, I'll be going a bit wider and if possible for the tire I want (Michelin Pilot Sport 4, or 4S) taller as well to get a ton of juicy sidewall.
 
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I got a set of gloss black 19” TST’s for my winter set before last winter. While the temps were in the low to mid 40s, I found the consumption to be about 10 Wh/Mi lower than the Ubers got in warmer temps, but obviously the consumptions gets a lot higher when the temp drops.

I’m curious what tires you use for the track? I ordered a set of 20” Martian wheels with the intention of using them in the upcoming summer and on a few casual track days on a relatively small track. Is Michelin PS4S good enough for that?

BTW, 3 of my Ubers are curbed and I have relatively new PS-AS4’s on them, so there is probably going to be a lot of wheel swapping in my future.

19” gloss black TST’s on my MYP:
5D5E91B1-41EF-4E0C-8E2C-A2C1E39C66E3.jpeg
 
I got a set of gloss black 19” TST’s for my winter set before last winter. While the temps were in the low to mid 40s, I found the consumption to be about 10 Wh/Mi lower than the Ubers got in warmer temps, but obviously the consumptions gets a lot higher when the temp drops.

I’m curious what tires you use for the track? I ordered a set of 20” Martian wheels with the intention of using them in the upcoming summer and on a few casual track days on a relatively small track. Is Michelin PS4S good enough for that?

BTW, 3 of my Ubers are curbed and I have relatively new PS-AS4’s on them, so there is probably going to be a lot of wheel swapping in my future.

19” gloss black TST’s on my MYP:
View attachment 895617
I have never and would never take my Tesla to the track lol. I have my dual duty street track car, my BMW E46 M3, and that car runs Michelin Pilot Sport 4S on the street, and a wider set of wheels and tires (Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2's) and a dedicated track 1994 turbocharged Miata (285whp, which if you've never driven a car this light, sounds not very powerful, but that amount of power in a car that weighs ~2280 pounds with me in it, is absolutely terrifyingly fast lol; fully stripped out, caged, fire suppression system, extensive braking and suspension modifications, etc) I'll be running Toyo R888's if conditions aren't flawless, and full Toyo R7 slicks if conditions are perfect.

For track use, if you really insist on it, I'd go with a set of Pilot Sport 4S, or Pilot Sport Cup 2's if you've got money to blow. Just keep in mind, whatever tire you take to the track, they will be thoroughly scrubbed and their lifetime will be dramatically reduced.

If you are a fast driver, and are pushing the car hard, you absolutely will be using your brake pads and the regen won't be sufficient, so you should be aware of course that you will reduce your pad life dramatically. I haven't tracked my car, but I'd assume the fluids and pads installed from the factory are not up to par to full intensity braking corner after corner, and you'll probably experience strong brake fade, which you should be paying attention to, so that you notice it before you go to brake into a hairpin and your foot goes to the floor with boiled brake fluid and you go into a wall lol.

Long story short, I would never track my YP because I have cars specifically for that purpose that are much more fun and effective for that purpose. But if you do decide to do so, just realize you will be putting a lot of wear on your car rapidly compared to regular daily driving.

This primarily will be tires, brake pads, and suspension joints/bushings.

Still, if you insist on it, have a ton of fun!

If I could, I would recommend running the tires you run on a daily basis, with no changes to your car, and go to some HPDE classes, and do autocross work. You'll have a ton of fun, and actually learn more about the more subtle dynamics about how your car handles, and handles at the limit. Learning how to control the car at the limit can help you build muscle memory for things like unexpected oversteer in bad conditions, which happens so quickly that it can't be a subconcious action, it has to be purely muscle memory because recovering from those things happen too quickly for your brain to consciously think "input countersteering until I feel the front end grip up, then return steering straight immediately to balance the car out".

Tesla does have a pretty sophisticated TC/SC system, and of course electric motors have such fast latency that they can react in ways ICE cars simply can't, so it's unlikely you'll be in that situation, but it's still fun as hell to go out on a giant skid pad with sprinklers running to provide an oversteer happy setting and letting an instructor guide you on how to manage your car in those conditions.

Your car looks great by the way! If those are Rally Armor mudflaps, I've since added those to my car as well, and I absolutely love them. My car is lowered, and as such the rigid plastic ones just don't work for me. The rally armor ones just slide right over any sort of tall speed bumps, which is awesome.
 
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I have never and would never take my Tesla to the track lol. I have my dual duty street track car, my BMW E46 M3, and that car runs Michelin Pilot Sport 4S on the street, and a wider set of wheels and tires (Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2's) and a dedicated track 1994 turbocharged Miata (285whp, which if you've never driven a car this light, sounds not very powerful, but that amount of power in a car that weighs ~2280 pounds with me in it, is absolutely terrifyingly fast lol; fully stripped out, caged, fire suppression system, extensive braking and suspension modifications, etc) I'll be running Toyo R888's if conditions aren't flawless, and full Toyo R7 slicks if conditions are perfect.

For track use, if you really insist on it, I'd go with a set of Pilot Sport 4S, or Pilot Sport Cup 2's if you've got money to blow. Just keep in mind, whatever tire you take to the track, they will be thoroughly scrubbed and their lifetime will be dramatically reduced.

If you are a fast driver, and are pushing the car hard, you absolutely will be using your brake pads and the regen won't be sufficient, so you should be aware of course that you will reduce your pad life dramatically. I haven't tracked my car, but I'd assume the fluids and pads installed from the factory are not up to par to full intensity braking corner after corner, and you'll probably experience strong brake fade, which you should be paying attention to, so that you notice it before you go to brake into a hairpin and your foot goes to the floor with boiled brake fluid and you go into a wall lol.

Long story short, I would never track my YP because I have cars specifically for that purpose that are much more fun and effective for that purpose. But if you do decide to do so, just realize you will be putting a lot of wear on your car rapidly compared to regular daily driving.

This primarily will be tires, brake pads, and suspension joints/bushings.

Still, if you insist on it, have a ton of fun!

If I could, I would recommend running the tires you run on a daily basis, with no changes to your car, and go to some HPDE classes, and do autocross work. You'll have a ton of fun, and actually learn more about the more subtle dynamics about how your car handles, and handles at the limit. Learning how to control the car at the limit can help you build muscle memory for things like unexpected oversteer in bad conditions, which happens so quickly that it can't be a subconcious action, it has to be purely muscle memory because recovering from those things happen too quickly for your brain to consciously think "input countersteering until I feel the front end grip up, then return steering straight immediately to balance the car out".

Tesla does have a pretty sophisticated TC/SC system, and of course electric motors have such fast latency that they can react in ways ICE cars simply can't, so it's unlikely you'll be in that situation, but it's still fun as hell to go out on a giant skid pad with sprinklers running to provide an oversteer happy setting and letting an instructor guide you on how to manage your car in those conditions.

Your car looks great by the way! If those are Rally Armor mudflaps, I've since added those to my car as well, and I absolutely love them. My car is lowered, and as such the rigid plastic ones just don't work for me. The rally armor ones just slide right over any sort of tall speed bumps, which is awesome.
Thank you very much for the detailed response! By "causual track day", I meant HPDE classes, of which I went to 4 last summer. The MYP is all I've got, so that's what I have to drive if I want to go on a track. LOL! The track we have here is only about 1.3 miles and mostly turns, so I think I've only gotten up to about 95 MPH briefly on it. As far as I could tell I didn't stress the car much, since I'm very much a novice. I did finish off the stock Pirelli P-Zeros after the 4th time (they had roughly 15k miles). I replaced them with Michelin PS-AS4's and thought I'd use them at the HDPE next summer. But now that I sort of impulsively bought a set of Martian wheels, I figure I'd put more suitable tires on them for the HDPE. Sounds like Michelin PS4 should be good enough. Even though the MYP isn't a track car, I do look forward to checking out Track Mode on that track next summer. Just driving on a track at a semi-fast pace brings a huge smile to my face.

As for those mudflaps, they are just the stock Tesla ones.

In case you're wondering, this is the track we have at the HPDE. They configure it so we drive mostly on the outermost sections :
DCTC-Track-and-Facility-Overview1120.jpg
 
Thank you very much for the detailed response! By "causual track day", I meant HPDE classes, of which I went to 4 last summer. The MYP is all I've got, so that's what I have to drive if I want to go on a track. LOL! The track we have here is only about 1.3 miles and mostly turns, so I think I've only gotten up to about 95 MPH briefly on it. As far as I could tell I didn't stress the car much, since I'm very much a novice. I did finish off the stock Pirelli P-Zeros after the 4th time (they had roughly 15k miles). I replaced them with Michelin PS-AS4's and thought I'd use them at the HDPE next summer. But now that I sort of impulsively bought a set of Martian wheels, I figure I'd put more suitable tires on them for the HDPE. Sounds like Michelin PS4 should be good enough. Even though the MYP isn't a track car, I do look forward to checking out Track Mode on that track next summer. Just driving on a track at a semi-fast pace brings a huge smile to my face.

As for those mudflaps, they are just the stock Tesla ones.

In case you're wondering, this is the track we have at the HPDE. They configure it so we drive mostly on the outermost sections :
DCTC-Track-and-Facility-Overview1120.jpg
Oh perfect then. If you've got a dedicated set of wheels for track/summer use, (I don't really have to deal with tire changes during "winter" in SoCal, I run high performance summer tires on all my cars year round) I would go for Michelin Pilot Sport 4S for sure. I would include during your HPDE work some playing around with TC/SC all the way off, so you can get a feel for what the car would feel like if it lost control and you had no driver aids to help out.

For driving fast and having fun, I'd reduce the TC/SC back quite a bit and shift the car to be very rear power biased, along with those fun sticky new tires.
 
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Hey all. First post here. Very happy new first time Tesla owner. Going to do a bit of an introduction story, just skip down the page if you just want to see the new wheels. You may note my username. I had a beautiful 2019 C63 AMG, with some modifications on it, and that sweet beautiful V8 symphony with 680 horsepower on the right foot, and 720+ ft-lbs of torque. The city decided to redo the asphalt late into the night, and not close down the road despite it having been done just shortly after. Long story short, driving completely straight at 33 MPH, the car caught a pool of grease from the fresh asphalt, and rear wheel drive + huge torque = immediate wheelspin. Traction control kicked in but it was too quick and too fast... rear tires broke traction for a brief moment, and threw the car immediately into a 90* turn into the concrete barrier right next to me. All airbags deployed, front end wrecked, rear is fine. Still waiting on insurance, but I'm assuming it's totaled due to the airbags being deployed. Great shame as this was the last of the AMG V8's ever to be produced... but alas.

The search for a new daily driver began. The new house I'm moving into already had a Tesla level 2 charger installed, and after owning my C63 AMG and E46 M3 only (previously before the C63, had an Audi A4 Allroad station wagon) I realized I really needed a car with strong utility and storage space. I have dogs, transport stuff often, and having a sport sedan and sport coupe really weren't an ideal mix for my lifestyle. This plus the insanity cost of gas... the Tesla just made sense. I've always wanted a Tesla, so decided to go for it.

Originally ordered a Model Y LR, in Blue. Only chose the Blue because the paid option scooted up my EDD from December to September. Considering the only car I'd have was my manual E46 M3 that is set up for dual duty track and street use, it wasn't going to be a practical or fun daily to *have* to use in traffic. Thus I needed the car ASAP.
Through reddit, I learned MYP's were being delivered much earlier and prioritized, so I decided to edit my order to a MYP. Got in before price increases. Ordered it in grey which was the color I wanted from the beginning.

Ordered on March 11th. Got a call from Tesla sales offering me a car that a person couldn't take delivery on due to being out of the country. The one condition was I needed to take delivery TOMORROW. Keep in mind this was 6pm. Delivery was set to 12pm the next day. This left me about 4-5 hours to get the financing done on a very expensive car lol. Needless to say I was pretty stressed the night before, as I had a "conditional approval" based on income verification documents I sent in. Woke up at 7am to check, and it was still pending approval. Really really stressed at this point... then boom. 10pm, approved. Went to the bank and grabbed the down payment as a cashiers check, and at 12PM on the dot, the car pulled up and the deal was done. Ordered March 11th, delivered on March 27th.





All this out of the way. Yes, it's stiff. Keep in mind I'm coming from a German sports sedan (to be fair, with adjustable suspension, but stiff nonetheless) and a dual duty track/street car that is quite low to the ground. And this car is much more rough on the road than either of them. I attributed this to the low profile tires, as many have noted.

I thus decided to go for a set of 19" TST wheels from TSportline in Brilliant Silver as I like silver wheels on basically all my cars, no matter the color. I went with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4's, which is a 255/45/19. I still find them to be a bit stretched, so will probably go for 265/45/19's in the future for a more flat sidewall. Bluetooth TPMS were already pre-installed.

The wheels are indeed a "brilliant" silver. Very very nice, very high quality flow forged wheels which I'm very familiar with as I have several sets of flow forged wheels for track use for the M3.

I also purchased the Tesla silver cap inserts, as well as the lug nut caps. Also purchased the jack point mounts.

Easy job as I'm well accustomed to doing my own work, so a quick wheel swap was easy and fast.

I love the new contrast, thicker sidewall, and wow; huge difference on weight. 26.95lb's for the TST's, 38.05lb's (front), 38.95lb's (rears) for the Uberturbines. 107lb's vs 154lb's in unsprung mass.

Have done only a bit of driving, and haven't done my usual commute on them yet as I just installed them tonight, but yeah, the difference is the real deal. Much better ride quality, its very obvious. I would say I have a pretty sensitive feel, and can confidently say the car absorbs minor imperfections in the road much better, and generally feels a lot softer. Will be interesting to see how it behaves at high cornering speeds, as well as if there is any noticeable range increase. I don't expect a big increase, but I do expect some increase due to the big drop in unsprung mass and change in wheel height.

Obviously I can also rotate the tires now. I set cold tire pressures to 40 PSI all the way around the car.

Anyways, onto the fun part. The photos. Sorry for the difference in lighting, I'll post more photos in the day time later at a better angle. Lost the light and was in a tight space.

Uberturbine 21's
View attachment 790896
View attachment 790897

TST 19" in Brilliant Silver.
View attachment 790898View attachment 790899

FYI the Uberturbines are for sale, without a scratch, and about 100 miles on them. SoCal.
Did you get the 9.5" width or 8.5" width? Looks like 9.5 to me (same as stock Gemini I believe). I'm paranoid about curb rash and thinking about getting these in 8.5" width with the same tires.