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To update my sub upgrade project, I have fitted the Kicker sub now (physical comparison of the two subs is stark, the Tesla sub is so small and light, with a very cheap paper cone).

But my initial testing appears that there is no discernible difference in bass response! So I think this either means that the rated power of the amplifier is lower than I thought, or there’s a fault with the amplifier’s power output.

So, I’m now considering adding an aftermarket amp, but just a little worried that I buy and install that and the bass is still crap!
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I’m really surprised by the lack of bass comments, coming out of the G05 X5 with the £3k optional B&W sound system I was pleasantly surprised by the system in the Model Y - especially the bass!

Guess it all depends on listening preference, and to be fair the one complaint levelled against the B&W was it’s lack of punch.

Will follow this install with interest!
 
I’m really surprised by the lack of bass comments, coming out of the G05 X5 with the £3k optional B&W sound system I was pleasantly surprised by the system in the Model Y - especially the bass!

Guess it all depends on listening preference, and to be fair the one complaint levelled against the B&W was it’s lack of punch.

Will follow this install with interest!
That is interesting, the several HK systems I’ve had in BMW had far far more bass than the MY system.
 
That is interesting, the several HK systems I’ve had in BMW had far far more bass than the MY system.
That’s probably correct, although I never really rated any of the HK systems I experienced across the F and G series platforms. I found they were quite “boomy” systems, whereas I prefer a punchier sound, but I guess it depends on the genre you listen to mostly. HK always showed well with electronic/dance music I found.

B&W was at its best at louder volumes, but I found it quite clinical and prefer a warmer sounding system. Impressed with the MY so far, but if you find an improved setup I would be interested in the all in cost at the end.
 
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I’ve order an amp, this Vibe Slick one is a bargain, and tiny! It will provide 250w to this sub at 2ohms:

VIBE Powerbox Micro Mono Amplifier - 1 x 400W, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FF2C8Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WVARD5FAJZTB9A164ZKV
Can you access the stock Tesla sub amp for inspection? Any markings on it to indicate power? How will you tie in the new amp? Do you have access to line level signals? Are they already low pass filtered or will you need a crossover as well?

Edit: I see the amp you linked has a lpf built it that might be suitable. We’re you just going to use the existing sub amp output connected to the speaker level inputs?
 
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Can you access the stock Tesla sub amp for inspection? Any markings on it to indicate power? How will you tie in the new amp? Do you have access to line level signals? Are they already low pass filtered or will you need a crossover as well?

Edit: I see the amp you linked has a lpf built it that might be suitable. We’re you just going to use the existing sub amp output connected to the speaker level inputs?
Yeah the amp comes with phone plugs/wires that connect to the existing high level sub wires, I’ll fit male spade connectors to them to plug them straight into the end of the current sub wires. Amp does have LPF. It also has a wired remote bass level knob. Looks like incredible value for £89, and it’s really tiny and will fit just about anywhere.

Just really hope the bass is good once it’s fitted!
 
That is a very low price. Problem is, sometimes you get what you pay for. I am eager to hear your assessment. If you are wiring the amps in series as described you probably won’t need the LPF since your high level input signal has already passed through the existing LPF.

How’s that remote option work? Looks like an rj45 jack (ENET)
 
That is a very low price. Problem is, sometimes you get what you pay for. I am eager to hear your assessment. If you are wiring the amps in series as described you probably won’t need the LPF since your high level input signal has already passed through the existing LPF.

How’s that remote option work? Looks like an rj45 jack (ENET)
well, it’s not as if it’s some generic Chinese brand, Vibe are a well known UK audio company, and the reviews of this amp are very good, so I have no reason to doubt that it will produce 250w at 2ohms.

The remote socket is an RJ11 I think, and the lead and controller are included with the amp.
 
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Yeah the amp comes with phone plugs/wires that connect to the existing high level sub wires, I’ll fit male spade connectors to them to plug them straight into the end of the current sub wires. Amp does have LPF. It also has a wired remote bass level knob. Looks like incredible value for £89, and it’s really tiny and will fit just about anywhere.

Just really hope the bass is good once it’s fitted!
Just have to hope that the issue isn’t just the result of an inadequate power supply to the sub amp. Though the new amp may have the potential of 250w (rms?) it still won’t be able to deliver that if it can’t be supplied with enough power via the existing Tesla loom. Fingers crossed!

(Maybe some nutter will invent a way of taking power off the main HV battery one day… probably run an entire Glastonbury PA off that!)
 
Just have to hope that the issue isn’t just the result of an inadequate power supply to the sub amp. Though the new amp may have the potential of 250w (rms?) it still won’t be able to deliver that if it can’t be supplied with enough power via the existing Tesla loom. Fingers crossed!

(Maybe some nutter will invent a way of taking power off the main HV battery one day… probably run an entire Glastonbury PA off that!)
Power will come from the positive terminal under the rear seat bench, which comes straight from the 12v battery.

Actually the 12v lithium battery supplies around 14.8v compared to around 12.8v in the old AGM battery, so it should be considerably more capable of supplying this amp with enough juice.
 
A short story ref my "mega-bass" in my 2019 M3LR......

My M3 had the most amazing audio when the car was first delivered. The sound was nothing short of spectacular with the bass so loud and deep that it vibrated the whole car and literally went through you. Everyone who heard it was blown away...it was a real joy to not just listen to music but to "feel" it.

6 months later, that powerful bass disappeared after a firmware update, never to return. I took it twice to Tesla to rectify but they could never "fix" it. They replaced the sub and amplifier, did various sounds measurements and then compared it to other M3s....and mine was the same as the other vehicles. I asked them to roll-back the firmware to the version where my bass was strong to prove it was the firmware but they said it was not possible. Everyone who rode in my car afterwards mentioned the audio felt a bit flat and asked what had happened.

I found posts on some of the US forums from people who's bass had come and gone and come back again after different firmware updates and some with the same problem as mine where the "mega-bass" permanently went.

I never did get to the bottom of this and it's still one of the things I still notice.....I wish I had my bass back (I even tweeted Elon Musk on the offchance he'd pick-up on it but of course no response).

My theory is that Tesla turned down the power of the amp as people were either blowing them by running them too loud or they were draining so much power that it was effecting the range too much. So now I'm really interested in aftermarket upgrades to the amp/speakers to see how well they improve the bass and if it gets back to what I originally had (.....and I'm also interested in anyone else who had the same experience as me).
 
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A short story ref my "mega-bass" in my 2019 M3LR......

My M3 had the most amazing audio when the car was first delivered. The sound was nothing short of spectacular with the bass so loud and deep that it vibrated the whole car and literally went through you. Everyone who heard it was blown away...it was a real joy to not just listen to music but to "feel" it.

6 months later, that powerful bass disappeared after a firmware update, never to return. I took it twice to Tesla to rectify but they could never "fix" it. They replaced the sub and amplifier, did various sounds measurements and then compared it to other M3s....and mine was the same as the other vehicles. I asked them to roll-back the firmware to the version where my bass was strong to prove it was the firmware but they said it was not possible. Everyone who rode in my car afterwards mentioned the audio felt a bit flat and asked what had happened.

I found posts on some of the US forums from people who's bass had come and gone and come back again after different firmware updates and some with the same problem as mine where the "mega-bass" permanently went.

I never did get to the bottom of this and it's still one of the things I still notice.....I wish I had my bass back (I even tweeted Elon Musk on the offchance he'd pick-up on it but of course no response).

My theory is that Tesla turned down the power of the amp as people were either blowing them by running them too loud or they were draining so much power that it was effecting the range too much. So now I'm really interested in aftermarket upgrades to the amp/speakers to see how well they improve the bass and if it gets back to what I originally had (.....and I'm also interested in anyone else who had the same experience as me).
That’s a good bit of insight, thanks for the info. I think this definitely adds up, this Kicker sub should really kick with 160w RMS fed to it, but it’s no better than the stock sub. I’m really looking forward to getting the amp fitted, I haven’t had time this weekend due to family days out.

So is your bass level the same on radio and spotify?
 
Power will come from the positive terminal under the rear seat bench, which comes straight from the 12v battery.

Actually the 12v lithium battery supplies around 14.8v compared to around 12.8v in the old AGM battery, so it should be considerably more capable of supplying this amp with enough juice.
I imagine you are right but having a higher voltage is not the crucial parameter. It’s the ability of the battery to instantly supply high amps. You technically could have a higher voltage battery but with poor ability to supply high levels of instant power. However I would have thought that the lithium battery should outperform the lead acid types in all respects… though I don’t know the specifications.

I suppose since the Tesla 12v battery doesn’t need to have the ability to crank an ICE it may not be as capable as we imagine.