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@teaston is this post relevant to your wiring? :
Thanks for the info, looks like the terminal under the rear seat is on the monitored side of the battery, and will switch off completely when the car sleeps?
 
That’s a good bit of insight, thanks for the info. I think this definitely adds up, this Kicker sub should really kick with 160w RMS fed to it, but it’s no better than the stock sub. I’m really looking forward to getting the amp fitted, I haven’t had time this weekend due to family days out.

So is your bass level the same on radio and spotify?
Yes it's the same. I didn't try streaming audio from USB but can't imagine it would be any better.
 
Is the stock amplifier not wired into the central loom though regardless of it taking power directly from the 12v? @teaston i.e. does the amplifier not report to a secondary or primary CAN BUS, and therefore removing the existing amplifier would throw some codes or you mind find you lose EQ control or something?
 
Is the stock amplifier not wired into the central loom though regardless of it taking power directly from the 12v? @teaston i.e. does the amplifier not report to a secondary or primary CAN BUS, and therefore removing the existing amplifier would throw some codes or you mind find you lose EQ control or something?
I won’t be removing or disconnecting the stock amplifier, it also runs the rear speakers and I will still be using its subwoofer outputs to supply sound to the new amplifier via high-level phono connectors that are supplied with the new amp.
 
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Seen this a while back. Although I felt it's a big process, it looks simple enough to follow.
Just Watching this video and his US MY boot trim has openings in it exactly where I made the hole in mine!

So looks like Tesla did originally think the panel needed holes in it, but then they got rid of them for some reason.

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Another observation, his factory subwoofer looks completely different to mine, no cheap crappy paper cone on his, looks like it’s carbon fibre or kevlar! See pic below. And his car didn’t have any of the wheel arch sound insulation that mine has.

The install of that Hansshow audio upgrade kit looks immense though, my little amp install is going to be child's play in comparison.

Also, man his car is filthy, you would think he’d give it a hoover before posting video of it on youtube. And he’s so careless with taking the interior apart, all those broken panels and clips! 😱
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I finally got round to fitting the amp today, and I now have bass in my MY!!

I’ve only turned the amp’s gain control to halfway, and the bass control is turned all the way down, but the bass is immense! If anyone is considering a more powerful subwoofer or amp, I can guarantee you there is no need! In fact, I think the limiting factor of the stock system is definitely the amplification, so just installing this amp with the stock sub would probably work very well, with the gain control kept low to prevent damage to the sub of course.

The only issue is there is some rattling from the interior trim on some tracks on certain bass notes, so I will have to track them down and apply some felt or sound deadening.

I’m also very happy to find that the car’s subwoofer slider still works (well, it actually didn’t seem to do anything at all before!). And the install is totally non-destructive, so the car can easily be put back to standard. Also the amp takes up very little space in the front under boot floor area, still loads of space for all the charging leads, and air space to keep the amp cool (not that it needs much being a Class D amp, and only being run at 250w at 2ohms, and the gain control at halfway).

Sorry I didn’t take photos along the process of the installation, it was hard enough finding the couple of hours to do the install, but if anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!
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I finally got round to fitting the amp today, and I now have bass in my MY!!

I’ve only turned the amp’s gain control to halfway, and the bass control is turned all the way down, but the bass is immense! If anyone is considering a more powerful subwoofer or amp, I can guarantee you there is no need! In fact, I think the limiting factor of the stock system is definitely the amplification, so just installing this amp with the stock sub would probably work very well, with the gain control kept low to prevent damage to the sub of course.

The only issue is there is some rattling from the interior trim on some tracks on certain bass notes, so I will have to track them down and apply some felt or sound deadening.

I’m also very happy to find that the car’s subwoofer slider still works (well, it actually didn’t seem to do anything at all before!). And the install is totally non-destructive, so the car can easily be put back to standard. Also the amp takes up very little space in the front under boot floor area, still loads of space for all the charging leads, and air space to keep the amp cool (not that it needs much being a Class D amp, and only being run at 250w at 2ohms, and the gain control at halfway).

Sorry I didn’t take photos along the process of the installation, it was hard enough finding the couple of hours to do the install, but if anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!View attachment 796788View attachment 796789
@teaston Great job! Am even more interested in this upgrade now and would love to hear how your audio performs so I can compare to what I used to have in my M3.

If you ever travel outside the Norwich area towards the south (Essex/London), I'd be more than happy to drive to wherever you are if you have time to demo this :)
 
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One thing that the OP didn't check that actually affects the bass or even volume is the EQ inside the Spotify app itself. If that is adjusted at all your definitely lose some volume/bass. Otherwise good job with the mod. Might do something like this soon but with a sealed single 12" in the lower storage.
 
One thing that the OP didn't check that actually affects the bass or even volume is the EQ inside the Spotify app itself. If that is adjusted at all your definitely lose some volume/bass. Otherwise good job with the mod. Might do something like this soon but with a sealed single 12" in the lower storage.
There are no eq settings inside the Tesla Spotify app afaik?

And honestly there’s no need for a 12” sub, this 8” setup can produce far more bass than anyone could need, I’ve had to turn the amp gain down to 1/3, and the bass control is still on minimum!
 
My bass mod is now complete, I installed sound deadening in the arch around the sub and a bit on the sub box, but there were still a lot of vibration rattles coming from the boot lid panels, so I put a load on the boot lid and the plastic panels, now there’s no rattles on any frequency! 😁

I now have loads of decent quality bass, really happy with the sound system now. Incredible VFM too, it’s cost me less than £300 total including the wiring kit, sound deadening and cable crimps.
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