Model Y - Totaled or repair?

[ZenAF_311]

I'm aware my insurance adjuster will make the final decision, but I'm interested if anybody else has experienced similar damage (cost) to their Model Y and what the outcome was. I'm only curious as I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and submit an order for a new car or wait to hear from my adjuster.

What happened? - The last week we've experienced abnormally heavy rains in the area. While traveling on the freeway I drove into an area with standing water which caused me to hydroplane into another lane. I tried to correct with the steering wheel and spun my vehicle in the concrete divider. Steering wheel and leg airbags deployed and the windshield in smashed.

Collision repair shop estimate is currently at $27,000

2021 Long range model with tow hitch, 32,000 miles. 10 month since purchase.

 

[Prax]

I'm not an insurance adjuster, but my guess is Totaled

 

[torifile]

It absolutely comes down to your state. In NC, the repair cost must exceed 75% of the car’s value to be totaled. Given the high cost of used cars these days, it would take upwards of 35k in damage here to exceed that amount.

 

[ZenAF_311]

It absolutely comes down to your state. In NC, the repair cost must exceed 75% of the car’s value to be totaled. Given the high cost of used cars these days, it would take upwards of 35k in damage here to exceed that amount.

Thanks for the response. I believe In California they take into account the salvage value. If the salvage value + cost of repairs is over the ACV of the vehicle, then it is totaled. I guess the question here is what is the salvage value which may be impossible to know.

 

[torifile]

Thanks for the response. I believe In California they take into account the salvage value. If the salvage value + cost of repairs is over the ACV of the vehicle, then it is totaled. I guess the question here is what is the salvage value which may be impossible to know.

View attachment 726673

That’s a more sensible approach. I was in an accident 2 years ago in my year old Golf R. Total repair cost was $22k. Plus $5k in car rental fees to the insurance company. And they still didn’t total it. New, the car was $38k. I imagine if salvage value were included, it would have been. That said, I’m glad they didn’t total it. It was finally repaired and I’ve gotten 2 years of problem-free, fun driving out of it. Selling it now because I need a bigger car but that’s a different story.

 

[PNWLeccy]

Since the current price of MY is likely higher than when you ordered, what sort of coverage would you need to make sure it covers the cost of a new MY? I remember seeing something like a "New Car Replacement" option when I had Geico that would cover the cost of a new vehicle if your car was totaled within the first 1-2 years but don't see a similar option with Progressive.

Ironically, the replacement cost of a new vehicle is cheaper than the FMV replacement cost of used vehicles, so I have no idea how insurance is handling that nowadays. For example, if your ~1 year old MYLR is totaled and the FMV of a 21' used MYLR is ~$65k vs a new MYLR that is ~$58k, would they pay out the elevated value of a used ($65K) or a new replacement ($58k)?

 

[nate704]

you have to look at the bottom where the battery pack is. If it is damaged meaning leaking coolant, crushed battery pack, etc., it will be totaled.

 

[ZenAF_311]

Since the current price of MY is likely higher than when you ordered, what sort of coverage would you need to make sure it covers the cost of a new MY? I remember seeing something like a "New Car Replacement" option when I had Geico that would cover the cost of a new vehicle if your car was totaled within the first 1-2 years but don't see a similar option with Progressive.

Ironically, the replacement cost of a new vehicle is cheaper than the FMV replacement cost of used vehicles, so I have no idea how insurance is handling that nowadays. For example, if your ~1 year old MYLR is totaled and the FMV of a 21' used MYLR is ~$65k vs a new MYLR that is ~$58k, would they pay out the elevated value of a used ($65K) or a new replacement ($58k)?

You bring a good point if totaled and is something I've been curious to find out. In my area used 2021 Model Y's are selling for anywhere between 60k - 65k which is more than purchasing new from Tesla. I imagine the adjuster would go with the lowest value which is a new value. I'll definitely update this thread with the outcome and hope to hear from my adjuster by end of week or early next week.

 

[EVdrive]

Can you share the dashcam footage?

I'm the OP of this thread, its been 5 months since my collision and I still don't have my car back. It's currently at the San Francisco Service Center, they're waiting on airbags to arrive. The most frustrating part of the entire experience is that Tesla Insurance only covers one month of rental car (and Tesla Insurance estimated that the repair would take "9 days"); it's completely inadequate for the length of time these repairs take.

From the perspective of getting your car back as soon as possible, I'd hope yours is totaled so you can purchase one (plenty of used ones for sale that you could get in a week). If they deem it repairable, I'd honestly consider purchasing another car to use while yours is in the repair process.

 

[ZenAF_311]

Link to Dashcam footage - Accident front.mp4

I definitely hope it's totaled. I'd prefer to get a brand new car if I have to wait months to get anything back.

As far as insurance goes, I only have $1200 max for a rental which will last about a month with the cheapest vehicle available. I'm going to upgrade that option in the future. Luckily this was my commuter car and we have two other family vehicles, so I'll be okay waiting for delivery.

 

[nicpottier]

Woah, did you just hydroplane? Kind of surprised stability control didn't manage that. Are you on 21"s? How much tread on the tires?

 

[ZenAF_311]

Woah, did you just hydroplane? Kind of surprised stability control didn't manage that. Are you on 21"s? How much tread on the tires?

Yes the car hydroplaned. I had the tread inspected about a week prior to the accident and ordered new tires. Those were the original tires with 7/32 left on them at 32,000 miles. 19" rims with the Continental tires

 

[69KWH]

Your car hydroplaned at 7/32" tread? This is very scary because I'm around 6/32" currently on the OEM Continental 19" tires...

 

[jcanoe]

The OE Contintental Procontact RX tires have a tread depth of 9/32 inch when new; most tires come with 10/32 tread depth. 7/32 is 78% of the original tread remaining so the tires were not at the point where they would need to be replaced. A combination of speed and road conditions (standing water) likely contributed to the crash. Some tires are fine at 55 MPH in heavy rain, yet start to hydroplane at ~60 MPH.

 

[ZenAF_311]

Your car hydroplaned at 7/32" tread? This is very scary because I'm around 6/32" currently on the OEM Continental 19" tires...

Yeah I was surprised as well. However, the video doesn't do a good job of showing the amount of water on the roads at the time. Also, I had just got on the freeway and was only going about 45 mph. The video makes it look much faster.

 

[ZenAF_311]

The OE Contintental Procontact RX tires have a tread depth of 9/32 inch when new; most tires come with 10/32 tread depth. 7/32 is 78% of the original tread remaining so the tires were not at the point where they would need to be replaced. A combination of speed and road conditions (standing water) likely contributed to the crash. Some tires are fine at 55 MPH in heavy rain, yet start to hydroplane at ~60 MPH.

Thanks for the response. After my tire inspection I thought she said 7/32, but it must have been less. I still saw good tread on the tires and normally wouldn't have replaced them yet. But I live near snow and thought after 32,000 miles on the original tires, it was time to splurge for new ones. The Continentals have been magnets for screws and nails and I didn't like them much.

 

[jcanoe]

Thanks for the response. After my tire inspection I thought she said 7/32, but it must have been less. I still saw good tread on the tires and normally wouldn't have replaced them yet. But I live near snow and thought after 32,000 miles on the original tires, it was time to splurge for new ones. The Continentals have been magnets for screws and nails and I didn't like them much.

I'm surprised the OE tires lasted 32k miles. How often do you rotate the tires? What tire pressure have you been running?

 

[ZenAF_311]

I'm surprised the OE tires lasted 32k miles. How often do you rotate the tires? What tire pressure have you been running?

I rotated every 10,000 miles. Most of my miles are highway miles as well as I travel for work. Pressure usually set to 41psi.

 

[jpy1980]

Just saw the video OP, GLAD YOU ARE OK! That was so scary!

Question to all the hot shoes out there, what would you do in a situation like that?

 

[ZenAF_311]

Updated estimate is now over 30K. I'm feeling pretty confident it's totaled.
Thank you all for your responses!