Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model Y Towing - Experiences Post here

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
This is a Model 3, not a Y, but here's some craziness from Cam-Am RV in Canada. They're known for towing larger trailers with sedans.

The Tesla Experiment - RV Lifestyle Magazine

I sure would like to be able to ask that author some questions....or better yet see a nice video production of the experience!

They did mention that handling and such were good...but how fast did they tow, dynamically how good is "good"?
I wonder how much did the suspension end up squatting?...I suppose folks more familiar with the car could probably extrapolate form the photos, but it's hard for me to know.
but what's even more interesting to me would be to see what it did before the weight distributing hitch was loaded....just weight on the bumper.
and dynamically how was the ride...really?
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: JayClark and Ken43
the schnell, I'd be very interested to know your "as loaded for camping" weight, as well as the tongue weight...if you ever stop by a CAT scale
(use the app so you don't have to go in to the weigh master)

If you've never done it...let the app find the scale before you pull on, or enter the scale's number
pull on so that the steer axle is on one pad, the drive axle on the other, and the trailers axle will be on the 3rd pad
Then trigger the app to make the weight
then, go unhitch the trailer someplace and pull the car back on alone....and click re-weigh. A re-weigh costs less than the initial weigh...I did it recently & I think it's $12 for the initial + $2.50 for the re-weigh at CAT
That way you'll be able to subtract out to see how much tongue weight the car is holding in the initial weigh....and it's also interesting to see how the trailer affects the front axle weight

Also, curious...how much does the trailer squat the car?

It doesn't look like you're fighting the wheel at all....and I know you mentioned it being a bit bumpier. Hard to tell in the video how much of that movement is just camera shake...but it looks like it's doing a great job!

Looks like you have a nice rig there, in that camper. I used to pull a popup tent camper and now have a class C motorhome. It really is a great way to travel!

I replied to one of your vids about the brakes and regen. My E-450 motorhome chasis has a feature for downhills to use engine compression and automatic downshifting to maintain speed downhill. I rarely ever need brakes in the mountains, it works great. I wonder if Teslas regen would give the same result.

Thank you for posting this!
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Ken43
the schnell, I'd be very interested to know your "as loaded for camping" weight, as well as the tongue weight...if you ever stop by a CAT scale
(use the app so you don't have to go in to the weigh master)

If you've never done it...let the app find the scale before you pull on, or enter the scale's number
pull on so that the steer axle is on one pad, the drive axle on the other, and the trailers axle will be on the 3rd pad
Then trigger the app to make the weight
then, go unhitch the trailer someplace and pull the car back on alone....and click re-weigh. A re-weigh costs less than the initial weigh...I did it recently & I think it's $12 for the initial + $2.50 for the re-weigh at CAT
That way you'll be able to subtract out to see how much tongue weight the car is holding in the initial weigh....and it's also interesting to see how the trailer affects the front axle weight

Also, curious...how much does the trailer squat the car?

It doesn't look like you're fighting the wheel at all....and I know you mentioned it being a bit bumpier. Hard to tell in the video how much of that movement is just camera shake...but it looks like it's doing a great job!

Looks like you have a nice rig there, in that camper. I used to pull a popup tent camper and now have a class C motorhome. It really is a great way to travel!

I replied to one of your vids about the brakes and regen. My E-450 motorhome chasis has a feature for downhills to use engine compression and automatic downshifting to maintain speed downhill. I rarely ever need brakes in the mountains, it works great. I wonder if Teslas regen would give the same result.

Thank you for posting this!

This is good advice as far as how to weigh. I've never done it and would never try without this specific info. That said, I'm actually between trips and left the car and trailer out west, so it will be a little while before I can weigh it. I did find the following on a Casita Forum.

"In my carport, dry and unloaded between trips, the tongue weight of my 2007 Casita 17 SD is 390 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Sep, 2007 - trailer axle 2,920 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Oct, 2007 - trailer axle 2,980 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Yes, we travel heavy and I suspect that my tongue weight is greater than many, but it is what it is. I do not use a WDH hitch.

You can view my travel configuration at:

November 2, 2007, After satellite dome, TV antenna, vent cover and rear mounted generator.

Don"


link Casita 17 Deluxe Tongue Wt. - The Casita Club Forum.

I highly doubt I'm that heavy since I was by myself for this first half of the trip and did not pack a ton of stuff.

I would estimate that the trailer squats the car about 2 - 3 inches. It seems pretty reasonable.

In regards to regen, it at least maintains speed if the hill is super steep, but typically you can reduce speed as needed without ever using the brakes unless you need to come to a complete stop while still on a steep hill.

I hope that helps a little. Again I will provide an overview of the whole trip with stats once I have a chance to pull it all together. It will probably be a few weeks.

EDIT: See corrected tongue weight from post above should be 440 lbs. Thank you @Ken43
 
Last edited:
This is good advice as far as how to weigh. I've never done it and would never try without this specific info. That said, I'm actually between trips and left the car and trailer out west, so it will be a little while before I can weigh it. I did find the following on a Casita Forum.

"In my carport, dry and unloaded between trips, the tongue weight of my 2007 Casita 17 SD is 390 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Sep, 2007 - trailer axle 2,920 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Oct, 2007 - trailer axle 2,980 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Yes, we travel heavy and I suspect that my tongue weight is greater than many, but it is what it is. I do not use a WDH hitch.

You can view my travel configuration at:

November 2, 2007, After satellite dome, TV antenna, vent cover and rear mounted generator.

Don"


link Casita 17 Deluxe Tongue Wt. - The Casita Club Forum.

I highly doubt I'm that heavy since I was by myself for this first half of the trip and did not pack a ton of stuff.

I would estimate that the trailer squats the car about 2 - 3 inches. It seems pretty reasonable.

In regards to regen, it at least maintains speed if the hill is super steep, but typically you can reduce speed as needed without ever using the brakes unless you need to come to a complete stop while still on a steep hill.

I hope that helps a little. Again I will provide an overview of the whole trip with stats once I have a chance to pull it all together. It will probably be a few weeks.

On that Casita Forum, Don a few messages later corrects his tounge weight downward:
"
QUOTE (Don @ Feb 21 2008, 08:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<snip>
Actual CAT scale weights, Sep, 2007 - trailer axle 2,920 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Oct, 2007 - trailer axle 2,980 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.
<snip>


CORRECTION - CORRECTION - CORRECTION

In both Actual CAT scale weights shown above the tongure weight should have been shown as 440 lbs. My error - gotta get the old tri-focals redone. Sorry.

Don"
 
  • Like
Reactions: theschnell
On that Casita Forum, Don a few messages later corrects his tounge weight downward:
"
QUOTE (Don @ Feb 21 2008, 08:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<snip>
Actual CAT scale weights, Sep, 2007 - trailer axle 2,920 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.

Actual CAT scale weights, Oct, 2007 - trailer axle 2,980 lbs, tongue 600 lbs.
<snip>


CORRECTION - CORRECTION - CORRECTION

In both Actual CAT scale weights shown above the tongure weight should have been shown as 440 lbs. My error - gotta get the old tri-focals redone. Sorry.

Don"

Thank you! I was so eager to post info that I had not read further.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ken43
yeah...440 seems more reasonable for those gross numbers.

all very encouraging to me! I figured the Y would handle towing better than the numbers would seem to indicate since it drives so stable and is rather heavy for its size.
Did you by chance note much of a difference with full family onboard the car....stuff in the trunk perhaps?

I'm looking forward to your future vids on this...and EV RVing in general
 
yeah...440 seems more reasonable for those gross numbers.

all very encouraging to me! I figured the Y would handle towing better than the numbers would seem to indicate since it drives so stable and is rather heavy for its size.
Did you by chance note much of a difference with full family onboard the car....stuff in the trunk perhaps?

I'm looking forward to your future vids on this...and EV RVing in general


I just realized I forgot to answer your question regarding additional bumpiness. It's extremely minimal. Almost unnoticeable unless you're really thinking about it. That particular video is shaky because my mount was not sturdy at all, and on that acceleration test, I was holding the camera in my hand.

I have not yet had my full family in the car while towing. That will come several weeks from now. To be honest, I don't expect to notice much. Car is just so stable. It doesn't seem bothered by the weight much at all.

You do notice when you drive without the trailer after using the trailer for a while that the car is zippier, but when you first put the trailer on you're expecting such a difference, that the minor difference in acceleration goes almost unnoticed.
 
I have a Sherline tongue weight scale, which makes measuring tongue weight very easy after loading. I can do it in the driveway before leaving on a trip and ensure I'm balanced the way I'd like. You can also use leverage to use a bathroom scale to calculate your tongue weight. @ecarfan and some others here have a Weigh-Safe ball mount, which measures tongue weight in real time.

There is also this device, which uses data from the ODB II port to somehow estimate tongue and trailer weight in real time. It seems to be well reviewed, but it feels a little too "black box" for me.
 
We pulled our 1100lb (empty) utility trailer today (plus maybe 50 pounds of rust) with our Model Y. It's a small trailer, but made out of unusually heavy duty steel (it's 45+ years old), completely boxed except for the top. The box itself is 6.5ft long, and a hair under 4ft wide. Wheels stick outside this box.

We ended up making the trip out and back empty. Stats for our trip are itemized below plus attached photos. The trailer has a gross weight capacity of 3500lbs, so it's fairly heavy duty for a small utility trailer.
  1. Starting Charge level: 80%
  2. End charge level: 30%, car had 91 miles of remaining range.
  3. Total Trip: Distance: 93.4 miles and said we used a total kWrs of 36, so about 50% of battery depletion (but note 2nd and 3rd bullets below)
    • 65 miles of the journey was by freeaway at a consistent 65mph
    • 28 miles surface streets with frequent stop lights (every 0.5 to 1 mile), and we spent about 75 minutes during this 28 miles on the surface streets running errands for our business, with the ac full tilt on the whole time, stopped several times for 5-10 minutes (again with AC on even when stopped).
    • The lovely Arizona temperature today was 108-110.
  4. kW/mi - Best observed instantaneous (well, 10 minute average) kWhr observed after first 10 minutes or so on the freeway was on the straight and level was 356 (ish) based on trip computer that restarted on our last stop just before starting up and getting on the freeway.
  5. kW/mi Total Trip efficiency 384, but this included all of the stop and go noted in the bullets above. It was 380 as we got off the freeway.
  6. Total kWrs used: 36 during nearly 4 hours of total driving, and lots of idling with AC on.
One note, the MY gets used for a lot of Real estate business work without the trailer usually, and does a lot of sitting with AC on, cruising from one suburban neighborhood to the next, in the Arizona heat. So even without the trailer, in our Arizona summer, we seem to be averaging around 320-345kw/mi which puts us in the lowest 10% of all Tesla drivers based on the iStat app over the last 2000 miles - when NOT pulling the trailer! This is mostly due to the fact almost all the miles miles put on the car since late June have been during an unusually hot summer (even for us) with high daily temps usually hitting at least 110deg and often closer to 114-115. We know from our Chevy volt, we get about 20-30% better efficiency in the 8 months that are not crazy hot like June-Sept. We don't ever really have to use any heat in the fall/winter/spring months here. The sun on the windows is usually more than enough. The point being, 320-345 is only about 40 or so better than what we saw today pulling a 1100lbs square brick of a trailer around for 4 hours.

General observations is that the MY pulls this trailer easily (see pictures), the trailer is almost not noticeable except for the hitch rattling noise. The MY receiver seems looser than the one on my Ram truck. The noise on unibody vehicles is always louder than receivers mounted on truck frames which are isolated from the truck body. A pathfinder I had years ago was surprising loud, like the MY, when Nissan switched the Pathfinder to unibody many years ago. I have a rattle preventing receiver pin coming that should mostly eliminate the noise, I've used these before, and on light duty trailers they work fine.

For small trips and loads like this the MY works well enough that I'm preferring to just use the MY vs taking the cover off my Ram truck that is now parked in the back yard pretty much full time except for really big jobs. It only gets pulled out about once or twice a month now.

The MY pulls the trailer as easily as my ram 1500/10-speed with a 7500lb tow rating. After using the MY to tow about 3 times over the last couple weeks, I really have no concerns pulling the trailer or having range enough to even make cross-town trips like today running lots of errands and such along the way.

The Tesla energy usage/range estimator chart while pulling the trailer seemed to be spot on when I checked it on the freeway (again, see pic), and we seemed to actually do a bit better than what it originally forecasted by just a bit.

PS: Oh, and the Model Y pulling a trailer seems to be Model S owner approved... we got a big "hanging out the window" smile & thumbs up from what looks like a very friendly retired couple driving a super nice looking Model S. :)

TrailerTrip1.jpg
TrailerTrip2.jpg
TrailerTrip3.jpg
TrailerTrip4.jpg
TrailerTrip5.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You could sell the Ram I wonder what the range drop will be if towing in cold weather

We've thought about selling the Ram, but every other month or so we make use of the 7500lb towing capacity in our business, and/or helping out friends. Also, it has a lifetime engine and drivetrain warranty that I plan on testing out - ;).

I'm not sure about elsewhere, but in the winter here our range will actually go significantly up, even with the trailer I'm guessing.
 
Use a trailer hitch lock like the one sold at U-Haul that bolts the hitch to the receiver. That will get rid of the rattle ( or most of it). It fixed the hitch rattle on my MX.

Is the MY hitch made by Bosal? If so, I’m guessing that they make the receiver a bit too large.
 
We pulled our 1100lb (empty) utility trailer today (plus maybe 50 pounds of rust) with our Model Y. It's a small trailer, but made out of unusually heavy duty steel (it's 45+ years old), completely boxed except for the top. The box itself is 6.5ft long, and a hair under 4ft wide. Wheels stick outside this box.

We ended up making the trip out and back empty. Stats for our trip are itemized below plus attached photos. The trailer has a gross weight capacity of 3500lbs, so it's fairly heavy duty for a small utility trailer.
  1. Starting Charge level: 80%
  2. End charge level: 30%, car had 91 miles of remaining range.
  3. Total Trip: Distance: 93.4 miles and said we used a total kWrs of 36, so about 50% of battery depletion (but note 2nd and 3rd bullets below)
    • 65 miles of the journey was by freeaway at a consistent 65mph
    • 28 miles surface streets with frequent stop lights (every 0.5 to 1 mile), and we spent about 75 minutes during this 28 miles on the surface streets running errands for our business, with the ac full tilt on the whole time, stopped several times for 5-10 minutes (again with AC on even when stopped).
    • The lovely Arizona temperature today was 108-110.
  4. kW/mi - Best observed instantaneous (well, 10 minute average) kWhr observed after first 10 minutes or so on the freeway was on the straight and level was 356 (ish) based on trip computer that restarted on our last stop just before starting up and getting on the freeway.
  5. kW/mi Total Trip efficiency 384, but this included all of the stop and go noted in the bullets above. It was 380 as we got off the freeway.
  6. Total kWrs used: 36 during nearly 4 hours of total driving, and lots of idling with AC on.
One note, the MY gets used for a lot of Real estate business work without the trailer usually, and does a lot of sitting with AC on, cruising from one suburban neighborhood to the next, in the Arizona heat. So even without the trailer, in our Arizona summer, we seem to be averaging around 320-345kw/mi which puts us in the lowest 10% of all Tesla drivers based on the iStat app over the last 2000 miles - when NOT pulling the trailer! This is mostly due to the fact almost all the miles miles put on the car since late June have been during an unusually hot summer (even for us) with high daily temps usually hitting at least 110deg and often closer to 114-115. We know from our Chevy volt, we get about 20-30% better efficiency in the 8 months that are not crazy hot like June-Sept. We don't ever really have to use any heat in the fall/winter/spring months here. The sun on the windows is usually more than enough. The point being, 320-345 is only about 40 or so better than what we saw today pulling a 1100lbs square brick of a trailer around for 4 hours.

General observations is that the MY pulls this trailer easily (see pictures), the trailer is almost not noticeable except for the hitch rattling noise. The MY receiver seems looser than the one on my Ram truck. The noise on unibody vehicles is always louder than receivers mounted on truck frames which are isolated from the truck body. A pathfinder I had years ago was surprising loud, like the MY, when Nissan switched the Pathfinder to unibody many years ago. I have a rattle preventing receiver pin coming that should mostly eliminate the noise, I've used these before, and on light duty trailers they work fine.

For small trips and loads like this the MY works well enough that I'm preferring to just use the MY vs taking the cover off my Ram truck that is now parked in the back yard pretty much full time except for really big jobs. It only gets pulled out about once or twice a month now.

The MY pulls the trailer as easily as my ram 1500/10-speed with a 7500lb tow rating. After using the MY to tow about 3 times over the last couple weeks, I really have no concerns pulling the trailer or having range enough to even make cross-town trips like today running lots of errands and such along the way.

The Tesla energy usage/range estimator chart while pulling the trailer seemed to be spot on when I checked it on the freeway (again, see pic), and we seemed to actually do a bit better than what it originally forecasted by just a bit.

PS: Oh, and the Model Y pulling a trailer seems to be Model S owner approved... we got a big "hanging out the window" smile & thumbs up from what looks like a very friendly retired couple driving a super nice looking Model S. :)

View attachment 577121 View attachment 577122 View attachment 577123 View attachment 577125 View attachment 577126
I do not have the hitch on my Y yet but I always used an anti rattle hitch pin in prior receivers. They have a nut and a spring and then thread in and get snugged. It pulls the receiver to one side to reduce the rattle. Then you can snug the nut under the trailer tongue until it fits the ball just right. These will not upgrade that great old trailer but I bet it takes out 80% of the rattle?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Padelford
I do not have the hitch on my Y yet but I always used an anti rattle hitch pin in prior receivers. They have a nut and a spring and then thread in and get snugged. It pulls the receiver to one side to reduce the rattle. Then you can snug the nut under the trailer tongue until it fits the ball just right. These will not upgrade that great old trailer but I bet it takes out 80% of the rattle?

Yes, agreed, this should work to minimize the noise, and was what I was actually referring, but didn't spell out specifically... " I have a rattle preventing receiver pin coming that should mostly eliminate the noise, I've used these before, and on light duty trailers they work fine."
 
I towed my utility trailer yesterday. First towing experience with the MY. We used to tow our teardrop camp trailer and utility trailer with a Model X so I have some means of comparison. A couple observations:

There is road noise transmitted through the hitch and into the MY frame, which can then be heard in the cabin. It’s not horribly loud but it does add extra noise in the cabin. Same thing happened on the MX. Hooking up is so much easier than it was on the MX. it’s still tight in there though. My hitch pin could only be inserted from the right side.

This trailer isn’t extremely heavy, 800 lbs curb weight, and we probably had another couple hundred pounds of stuff in it, but I could definitely tell that the MY will get pushed around more than the MX. This makes sense given the vast weight difference between the two vehicles. But something to keep in mind. I don’t think I would want to tow something that was near the maximum towing capacity without trailer breaks. Our tear drop trailer, Little Guy Silver Shadow, is around 1100 lbs curb weight and probably 1500-1600 loaded (wild guess but probably close) and doesn’t have trailer brakes. If I were to consider a heavier trailer I would insist on something with trailer breaks.

The safety chains rest on the plastic bumper lip below the hitch. This will scratch it all up over time. I’m going to figure something out to protect that area.

There is a lot of slop between the receiver and the drawbar. There is more up/down movement than I like. I have a clamp thing with a U-bolt and a metal plate that I used on a previous non-Tesla SUV. I’m not sure if it will work due to how recessed the receiver is. I’ll try though.

I had to move the ball down another notch from what is shown in this photo to get a more level trailer.

View attachment 571670 View attachment 571671

Cray beard- Are there attachments for the safety chains on the vehicle from the factory?
I have ordered a tow hitch and was wondering where I connect the safety chains too?
Thanks
Darren