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Model Y Trailer Hitch Anti-Corrosion Washers?

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I recently picked up a used Official OEM Tesla MY Trailer hitch and was watching this video on installing an EcoHitch 3rd party trailer hitch to the MY and they mentioned using nylon washer to isolate the aluminum hitch from the steel MY body. I live in California and very rarely drive up to Tahoe which is the only place I might encounter salted roads.

  • QUESTION1: Can anyone confirm that the MY body panel that the trailer hitch connects to is made from steel?
On TorkLift's website, they say their hitch is "Made from a combination of up to aerospace-grade aluminum, stainless steel, and steel," which I'm assuming means the parts of the hitch that touch the MY body are aluminum hence the need for the washer (and the parts of the hitch that touch the aluminum crash bar are aluminum, so the washers are NOT needed between hitch and crash bar).

However my OEM Tesla Trailer Hitch is all steel, per the Tesla website "1X HIGH-STRENGTH STEEL TOW BAR" and as I have verified all over with a magnet.

  • QUESTION2: Is it correct then that, opposite of the TorkLift EcoHitch, I need nylon washers only between the crash bar and the hitch, since crash bar is definitely aluminum and the hitch is definitely steel?
  • QUESTION3: Does anyone know the dimensions, specs, and a place to buy the correct nylon washers to prevent Galvanic Corrosion? This thread includes a link to TorkLift's M3 trailer hitch installation instructions, which include 14 7/16" x 1 1/2" nylon washers. My guess is MY's would need the same size but have been unable to confirm. I would like to have all the pieces before I start removing the panels and everything as this is our only car and obviously it will be out of commission so waiting for even 1 day shipping would be a problem. Can I pick these nylon washers up from a local O'Reilly or other auto parts store?
  • QUESTION4: The video also mentioned using zinc washers with dielectric grease as a more durable isolation for nylon washers. Same question on specs and where to locally buy these. I already have dielectric grease from some home electronics stuff.
 
Find a magnet around your house. If 1 side sticks to the magnet and the other doesn't, then it needs a washer between them. Otherwise, steel and aluminum will bond together and you'll never be able to get them apart.
 
I recently picked up a used Official OEM Tesla MY Trailer hitch and was watching this video on installing an EcoHitch 3rd party trailer hitch to the MY and they mentioned using nylon washer to isolate the aluminum hitch from the steel MY body. I live in California and very rarely drive up to Tahoe which is the only place I might encounter salted roads.

  • QUESTION1: Can anyone confirm that the MY body panel that the trailer hitch connects to is made from steel?
On TorkLift's website, they say their hitch is "Made from a combination of up to aerospace-grade aluminum, stainless steel, and steel," which I'm assuming means the parts of the hitch that touch the MY body are aluminum hence the need for the washer (and the parts of the hitch that touch the aluminum crash bar are aluminum, so the washers are NOT needed between hitch and crash bar).

However my OEM Tesla Trailer Hitch is all steel, per the Tesla website "1X HIGH-STRENGTH STEEL TOW BAR" and as I have verified all over with a magnet.

  • QUESTION2: Is it correct then that, opposite of the TorkLift EcoHitch, I need nylon washers only between the crash bar and the hitch, since crash bar is definitely aluminum and the hitch is definitely steel?
  • QUESTION3: Does anyone know the dimensions, specs, and a place to buy the correct nylon washers to prevent Galvanic Corrosion? This thread includes a link to TorkLift's M3 trailer hitch installation instructions, which include 14 7/16" x 1 1/2" nylon washers. My guess is MY's would need the same size but have been unable to confirm. I would like to have all the pieces before I start removing the panels and everything as this is our only car and obviously it will be out of commission so waiting for even 1 day shipping would be a problem. Can I pick these nylon washers up from a local O'Reilly or other auto parts store?
  • QUESTION4: The video also mentioned using zinc washers with dielectric grease as a more durable isolation for nylon washers. Same question on specs and where to locally buy these. I already have dielectric grease from some home electronics stuff.
The "hitch" is not aluminum!
The above in BOLD is where you jumped the rail.

You have an OEM hitch. Not a 3rd party POS!
Don't mix apples to oranges. Stick with what you have
and things will be much easier for you.
 
Thank you did hear anyone mention 3 screws are right handed and 3 are left handed in the video, but these instructions clearly state that. Also they do not mention any washers at all hmmm.
 
The "hitch" is not aluminum!
The above in BOLD is where you jumped the rail.

You have an OEM hitch. Not a 3rd party POS!
Don't mix apples to oranges. Stick with what you have
and things will be much easier for you.
Yes - actually I wrote that in my post along with a link. But I don't blame you for not seeing it because my post was long! So thanks for responding anyway.
However my OEM Tesla Trailer Hitch is all steel, per the Tesla website "1X HIGH-STRENGTH STEEL TOW BAR" and as I have verified all over with a magnet.
 
Find a magnet around your house. If 1 side sticks to the magnet and the other doesn't, then it needs a washer between them. Otherwise, steel and aluminum will bond together and you'll never be able to get them apart.
Yes, I did this already and mentioned it already in my OP:
However my OEM Tesla Trailer Hitch is all steel, per the Tesla website "1X HIGH-STRENGTH STEEL TOW BAR" and as I have verified all over with a magnet.
But appreciate you responding to me anyway (since I'm just some random stranger!) and yes very much aware of the challenges steel aluminum contact (hence the post).
 
@Landmark4615, soooooo curious what you came up with? nylon or Delrin washers are cheap, I would whole heartedly get ---non-metallic washers for in-between the body and the hitch, the other thing you're not mentioning is where the bolts are touching the body, I'd highly recommend nylon sleeving them, dissimilar metals between flex/friction/temp they are going to attack each other, and the steel components are going to cause the aluminum to oxidize. first inspection you won't see anything, then at the worst possible moment when you look at the hitch, it's going to fail.

good luck
 
@Landmark4615, soooooo curious what you came up with? nylon or Delrin washers are cheap, I would whole heartedly get ---non-metallic washers for in-between the body and the hitch, the other thing you're not mentioning is where the bolts are touching the body, I'd highly recommend nylon sleeving them, dissimilar metals between flex/friction/temp they are going to attack each other, and the steel components are going to cause the aluminum to oxidize. first inspection you won't see anything, then at the worst possible moment when you look at the hitch, it's going to fail.

good luck
No harm in getting nylon washers. And sleeves. Where do you get them from?
 
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No harm in getting nylon washers. And sleeves. Where do you get them from?
home depot/lowes, Amazon, if there's a marine supply near you like west marine...just beware you'll spend red bottom shoe prices from there.