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Most cost effective instrument cluster and MCU1 repair/upgrade

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Hi guys! My first post here. Just recently got a '15 MS 85 and started going through it so I'm excited. One thing I see I need is an instrument cluster screen because of glass delamination. From what I read so far, an MCU upgrade also gets you the displays replaced @ $2k or $2.5k total. My main display is still ok. I think it has a little of the side yellow bars, but not terrible. Sounds like it's better to have the eMMC fixed or MCU upgraded sooner rather than later.

My question is what's better/possible:
1. Tesla MCU upgrade which gets me new displays for $2-2.5k or
2. Get used cluster screen ($100ish) and fix eMMC/get used MCU2 ($???)

What I don't know is what it takes or if it's even possible to get a used MCU2 and make it work.

Any info is greatly appreciated.
 
MCU1 and MCU2 are not plug-and-play. You cannot upgrade it yourself without EXTENSIVE modifications and programming. It's not worth it to do on your own, Tesla's in-house price is actually pretty good for that.

FYI, it's only $1750 for you because you don't have AP2.

I believe the instrument cluster screen is plug-and-play. If you're comfortable replacing the eMMC on your own you can, but it's a bit of a process as well. I believe they have a free recall to do it, though, might want to call your service center to check first.
 
Really appreciate your reply. So $1750 gets me MCU2 and instrument and main displays? I haven't been able to add the car to my account yet so I can ask directly.

And cluster plug-and-play was another question I had. Worst case, I think I can use the LCD of a used one on my original PCB.
 
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Really appreciate your reply. So $1750 gets me MCU2 and instrument and main displays? I haven't been able to add the car to my account yet so I can ask directly.

And cluster plug-and-play was another question I had. Worst case, I think I can use the LCD of a used one on my original PCB.
Yes, the MCU2 upgrade includes replacing both the main screen and the instrument panel display.

With MCU1, the instrument panel has it's own processor. That's where you can reset the instrument panel using the two buttons above the scroll wheels independently of resetting the main screen with the two scroll wheels.

With MCU2, the instrument panel is a secondary display off of the main MCU2 processor and screen. That is why when you get the MCU2 replacement of the main screen, they must replace the instrument panel from your original MCU1 setup in combination with the MCU2 main screen. You cannot mix-and-match the IP and main displays between MCU1 and MCU2 systems.

So, you could go ahead replace the IP with a used one. Do just the eMMC replacement for your MCU1. But if your MCU1 would need to be replaced in the future, or you'd elect to do the MCU2 upgrade, you'd be replacing the IP again a second time.
 
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I'll probably start with replacing the cluster and see if I can get the eMMC replaced under the recall. If I decide later to upgrade the MCU, I would just be out and extra $100ish for the cluster but not have to look at glue stripes untill then. Thanks, guys!
 
Thanks! I had seen it. I kind of wanted to still have the glass. Hoping a newer revision will not bubble up too soon. Used was cheaper too.
When you say "newer revision", are you referencing the letter after the part number on the back of the cluster assembly?
I was under the impression that you needed to stick with the same revision you have when replacing it.
If not, how do we know which revisions are compatible with ours?
Do we know which revision, if any, they started wrapping the screens to avoid the delam from happening?

I have a 1004788-00-D that is delamming. I actually recently bought my MS used and saw the cluster screen prior to buying. I did my research and saw that TMSC charges $1500 to replace it, but I could do it myself for a couple hundred. So I used the SC charge amount as a bargaining chip and got the dealership to "split the difference" with me. So they came down on the price $750 and I'm going to pocket the +$500 difference.
 
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Yes, by newer resivision, I was referring to the letter at the end of the part number. I was assuming that the newer ones would be compatible, but I guess that would not be necessarily the case. Anyway, my original was also -D and I got a -G and was able to successfully swap the display. I can't guarantee a newer revision would work, but I would think the chances are pretty good.
 
Yes, by newer resivision, I was referring to the letter at the end of the part number. I was assuming that the newer ones would be compatible, but I guess that would not be necessarily the case. Anyway, my original was also -D and I got a -G and was able to successfully swap the display. I can't guarantee a newer revision would work, but I would think the chances are pretty good.
Yeah, I just wasn't completely confident in picking a newer one, and then the plugs being different or something.
So I purchased a used rev D replacement off eBay, and recently swapped it. Works fine.
Really nice to have no more bubbles!
And I went ahead and wrapped the bottom of the screen with Gorilla mounting tape while I was swapping the motherboards to hopefully stop this one from delamming.
My '15 MS doesn't have any window tint, so I'm hoping that was a large contributor to the original bubbling prior to me owning it.
I'm going to tint all the glass this spring with ceramic tint. So the interior will be staying much cooler after that.
Don't want the center console to start delamming. At that point, I might as well upgrade to MCU2.
 
I'll probably start with replacing the cluster and see if I can get the eMMC replaced under the recall. If I decide later to upgrade the MCU, I would just be out and extra $100ish for the cluster but not have to look at glue stripes untill then. Thanks, guys!
I'm in a similar boat. I had the eMMc replaced as part of the recall. MCU1 seems to work OK for me. I like the FM radio and the main screen is OK, but the IC is showing signs of leakage. The car has about 113k miles on it, and so far no major repairs. I think I'll just replace the IC screen from reeldeal and see how it goes after that. Hate to spend $2250 plus tax plus the time they need to do the work, and then end up with issues or hassles...