Most current 12v remote option for 2021 Model 3?

[Captain McFunk]

I've been hunting through all of the threads regarding the 12v remote turn-on location and it seems to change in every post and thread I find -- Can anyone quickly tell me a remote turn-on wire i can tap into for the 2021 Model 3? is the "midle-sized" of the 3 red wires in the passenger front kick panel area still a good option? I'm trying to hook up my audiocontrol lc2i, as the auto turn-on from the subwoofer + and - doesn't actually turn off the lc2i and amp until about 30 minutes after the car is asleep.... Thanks!

 

[Captain McFunk]

just an update here for anyone searching, i worked on this this past weekend, and the small red wire UNDERNEATH a majority of the bundle of wires in the passenger front kick panel area DOES work -- specifically when someone is sitting in the driver seat and puts their foot on the brake to "turn on" the car. it will stop receiving power if you get out of the driver's seat (say to get something out of the backseat or trunk, etc.) but that will work for me.

TLDR -- small red wire at the back/underneath the bundle of wires in the plastic "channel" in the passenger front kick panel area will work for remote turn-on for an amp or anything else that needs remote turn-on when there is weight in the driver seat and the brake pedal is pushed.

 

[Timbo2]

just an update here for anyone searching, i worked on this this past weekend, and the small red wire UNDERNEATH a majority of the bundle of wires in the passenger front kick panel area DOES work -- specifically when someone is sitting in the driver seat and puts their foot on the brake to "turn on" the car. it will stop receiving power if you get out of the driver's seat (say to get something out of the backseat or trunk, etc.) but that will work for me.

TLDR -- small red wire at the back/underneath the bundle of wires in the plastic "channel" in the passenger front kick panel area will work for remote turn-on for an amp or anything else that needs remote turn-on when there is weight in the driver seat and the brake pedal is pushed.

My understanding is the vehicle is quite sensitive to current draw. So folks are using that wire for "sense" only - i.e. low current draw.

I'm not aware that anyone is trying to power anything significant from that. For example it powers a relay with the actual device power coming from either the trailer wiring circuit or the 12V plug in the center console.

 

[Sbcarter1997]

Might not be the solution for everybody, but I ran a wire from the 15v in the harness for the oem amp to a kill switch and am planning on turning the subs on/off manually for now. Like I said not the solution for everyone but it is an option.

 

[Dadstoyy]

just an update here for anyone searching, i worked on this this past weekend, and the small red wire UNDERNEATH a majority of the bundle of wires in the passenger front kick panel area DOES work -- specifically when someone is sitting in the driver seat and puts their foot on the brake to "turn on" the car. it will stop receiving power if you get out of the driver's seat (say to get something out of the backseat or trunk, etc.) but that will work for me.

TLDR -- small red wire at the back/underneath the bundle of wires in the plastic "channel" in the passenger front kick panel area will work for remote turn-on for an amp or anything else that needs remote turn-on when there is weight in the driver seat and the brake pedal is pushed.

I think this is brilliant. I am trying to run an audio control LC.1-800 for 2 subs in the trunk and don’t want to use the GTO on the Audio control. I heard about using the brake to activate the remote turn on for the amp as a solution. The problem I have found it that the car powers up instantly and with a surge of power. Using this option would mean the car was powered up and voltage stable for you to then turn on the amp. Do you have pictures of where or which wire this actually is.

 

[TeslX100D]

Might not be the solution for everybody, but I ran a wire from the 15v in the harness for the oem amp to a kill switch and am planning on turning the subs on/off manually for now. Like I said not the solution for everyone but it is an option.

Could always use a switched fuse block + a relay (not picture but attaches on the right) that solves the power problem and simply turns it on/off. twisted cables at the bottom are coming from a DSP.

Courtesy of www.caraudiofabrication.com youtube channel:

 

[TeslX100D]

I think this is brilliant. I am trying to run an audio control LC.1-800 for 2 subs in the trunk and don’t want to use the GTO on the Audio control. I heard about using the brake to activate the remote turn on for the amp as a solution. The problem I have found it that the car powers up instantly and with a surge of power. Using this option would mean the car was powered up and voltage stable for you to then turn on the amp. Do you have pictures of where or which wire this actually is.

You can look this up by creating a Tesla service account - its free and you have access to all of the wiring diagrams for your specific vehicle: Tesla Service