Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Most unreliable second hand model S

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
My 2015 Model S70D was purchased through the Tesla CPO program about 2 years ago. I had 2 door handles fail (covered by 4 year warranty), and my 12V battery failed. Strangely, the 12V was also covered by warranty. In any other car that I have owned I would have had to pay for a new battery as well as install it myself, but Tesla did it for free.
Even so, I wouldn't have bought the car second hand without some kind of warranty.
I feel sorry for the OP in that they have had so much trouble.
 
Can't you trade it for a new 3/S/Y? Life is too short to stress over this sort of stuff. You didn't really by the car of your dreams..you kind of settled for somwthing close right? We all have done it...just don't double down on it by being miserable locking yourself into any more day's with a dud Tesla.

I'm a fronine HCW myself so I know exactly how you feel. I bought mine during the height of the crisis for 3 reasons...I damn well earned and deserve it (and you know exactly what I mean), interest rates were super low and I got fed up with the ELR and the lack of support or vision from GM with the car.
Best of luck and be well!
 
You bought a used car. Who knows how it was maintained or driven before you got it. You are just paying for the sins of the first or second owner. Pony up for those few repairs knowing that you bought (as is) for a discount. Make your used car initial repairs and then enjoy your car after you have caught up with the maintenance on the wear and tear. Learn how to do some of the repairs yourself if money is tight. I have a 2012 out of warranty and I love it...
 
Just bought a used 2013 P85+ six weeks ago. I knew the risks involved. Things happened so far:

- One broken door handle. Bought new stronger paddle gear from Ebay for 40eur, and about half hour work.

- Changed two rear suspension arms (toe links), because there was considerable play in right rear.. About 250eur for the parts and few hours of work.

- Car had only one set of tires which were worn badly. Bought used Model X 20" Slipstreams and summer tires for those, and also 19" winter tires for the included rims.. About 2000eur total. :eek: Still not a bad price for rims and two sets of tires.

- Obviously, a week ago my eMMC failed. I sent the Tegra board to be fixed, and now Finnish Post apparently has lost the parcel. This is incredibly annoying! If it's not found, I have to ask Tesla to install a replacement board, or wait for MCU2 which is not yet available in Europe for pre-AP cars.

However, I'm still very happy with the car. Everything so far is "normal wear" in my opinion, and now that I've fixed those I probably never have to do it again.

I bought the car knewing that I probably have to do some tinkering myself. I'm a DIY person, I hope I never have to take it to SC for repairs. Local SC has very good policy on spare parts, you can order parts by email and they ship them to your home address..
 
  • Like
Reactions: P85_DA and Evoforce
At $4,000 I would have lost my shirt on the ESA. In 110,000 miles my out of pocket repairs have been less than $500.

It's always tricky trying to decide about these things. In my life as a whole, I have almost never purchased extended warranties for anything, considering they were unlikely to be worth it. But a car is a somewhat extreme case because of the potential costs involved.
In my case, I waited until my initial 4-year warranty was up. Tesla gives you 30 days from the end of the initial warranty to decide. Just before that month was up, I had a firmware update stall, and brought the car to the shop. Their initial diagnosis was that the MCU was failing and that it would cost about $2400 to replace it. So, they ordered the parts and we set a date for the replacement. Knowing I was facing that large a bill, I bought the ESA, figuring that the computer replacement alone would justify the 2-year ESA cost or half the 4-year ESA cost. I opted for the 4-year term, knowing that I was also likely to face more door handle replacements, at least.

But when the MCU service appointment arrived, guess what? They said I did not need an MCU, the problem was a corrupt file on my USB drive (which I later confirmed). But I left the ESA in place, knowing that I could cancel at any time and get a pro-rated refund.
A few months went by, and the MCU was steadily showing more and more signs of failure. In the meantime, Tesla lowered the price of the MCU replacement from $2400 to something like $1500. Eventually mine failed utterly and it was replaced, with the ESA cost being just $200. I still felt that the ESA saved me money on that, even though the MCU repair price dropped further a few weeks after that.
Coincidentally, however, at the same time, one of my rear parking brake calipers failed. I had not heard much about these failures, but the cars of mine's vintage have a motorized parking brake caliper that is quite costly to replace. I had both calipers replaced at the same time as the MCU repair. Without the ESA, the cost would have been something like several hundred dollars each, as I recall. So, in that one visit got more than $2000 in repairs for $200 with the ESA, and I am only one year into it. (And since then, I have one more door handle fail, so the repair was roughly half price with the ESA fee.)
I have owned my car from new, it has gotten regular service, I do not think I treat it roughly or neglect it, but stuff does fail and wear, so I feel the ESA is a reasonable investment.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: P85_DA
Unfortunately the plural of anecdote is not data. There are stories on both sides showing how reliable or unreliable their cars have been. Both kinds of stories are true for all makes and models if you look for them.

That said, since I have no data, I'll provide another anecdote:

I bought my 2015 just under a year ago from Tesla with around 48k on the clock. I've had a number of things replaced, some of which are known failure points:

Steering rack shims
Front half shafts
Rear tail lights
Door handle
MCU
Air strut

Since these were under warranty repairs, I paid nothing out of pocket, but I'm keeping a list to see what the difference is between the higher depreciation of a newer car, and the lower depreciation + projected repair costs of my current car when the bumper to bumper warranty expires next year.

I buy used cars exclusively, and I do 90% of the work myself, so in those cases it is exceptionally more expensive to own a newer vehicle. We'll see what the Tesla spreadsheet shows next year...
 
  • Informative
Reactions: David29
I’m a front line essential worker and it has caused me so much stress through the worst of Covid. I am gutted to have my heart and wallet ripped apart after having bought my dream car.

First failure early April after 2 weeks was the battery coolant heater £1300 and off the road for 2 1/2 weeks

Next failure 3 weeks later was a boot lock but I couldn’t lock the car since it still believed the boot was open, 4 days off road to get that fixed

all the tesla service would offer me was a normal hire car at £140 per day ffs.totally useless.

It worked for most of June and July.

As I was travelling home from work the night before I went away on a 2 week family holiday I stayed getting a horribly loud crackling and arcing noise over the audio at max volume. No radio, sound or anything. The car was only driveable with ear plugs and ear defenders over the top.

3 weeks to get the car into the service Center a week to diagnose an MCU fault, 2 weeks to wait for the wrong part to be delivered then half a week for the correct part. A week to fit it, total over 7 weeks and £1724

I picked it up last thursday then on Saturday night. I stoppped to charge at a supercharger On my way to work and reversing in there was a very loud bang from the front suspension and It part collapsed. Car towed back to service Center and an £85 taxi to get me to work. Goodness knows how long it will be in the Center for now and how much it will cost.

I just don’t know what to do with it.. advice appreciated..

I think Tesla should buy it and crush it. Unless something changes I won’t ever be recommending anyone to ever buy one.

many dream has been destroyed!
Sorry for your experience and crushed dream - I get it. Not sure I would have plunged in to Tesla like that at start of cv19 being essential but I feel for your stress load and how this made it worse. Did you buy this from a third party and not Tesla? I would fix it and sell it to carvana vroom or one of those and take the money and buy a M3 with a proper warranty.
 
No matter how much money I have I would NEVER own a Tesla outside of warranty.

My 2015 S 85D, had plenty of problems God knows would cost how much if I didn't have warranty on it.

The 2016 P90DL also had a billion problems.

The P100D was OK, but the MCU and the dashboard would scarily and randomly lock up sometimes. It was rare, but it's really scary... it should just not happen.


Even WITH a warranty, it's still a crapshoot, considering the number of new cars at the service centers and the way those cars are taken care, or not. On top of that, the way the owners are treated is worse. The best warranty is one you don't have to use.
 
Even WITH a warranty, it's still a crapshoot, considering the number of new cars at the service centers and the way those cars are taken care, or not. On top of that, the way the owners are treated is worse. The best warranty is one you don't have to use.

True. Plus, from what I've seen, Tesla warranty honoring has gone from "good" to "terrible". They used to do a lot of goodwill stuff, but now they just don't. Lately they haven't even been accepting stuff like creaks and noises as part of warranty - last year when I had my P90DL with a huge amount of noise, they wanted to charge me $100 or something just to identify where the noises were coming from, God knows what they would have charged to fix them. It was under full warranty too!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Darren Donovan
Update. It has taken the service Center 10 days to even get the car up on ramps to look at it. They even had the cheek to tell me that there didn’t look as if there was any problem with the suspension as it has sat in the carpark and it looks ok and it hasn’t dropped or sunk... now I am told lower control arm failure.. it’s just broken.. how crap is that. I heard it was a fault on some cars. Currently waiting for the bill I’ve been told the wheel alignment costs £200.!!!!