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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers

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Could someone explain Hub to Fender? I currently have my FRONT SPRING PERCH OFFSET at 1.5 inches and REAR SPRING PERCH OFFSET at 0.5 inches. If I was to adjust it exactly to the recommended settings, will I noticed more in comfort? I am at 12/12 all around.

FRONT:
FRONT SPRING PERCH OFFSET: START AT: 55mm....translate to: 2.16535 inches?
FRONT RIDE HEIGHT: 395mm (Hub to Fender)

REAR:
REAR SPRING PERCH OFFSET: 16mm....translate to: 0.629921 inches?
REAR RIDE HEIGHT: 395mm (Hub to Fender)

Thanks in advance.
 
I had it set at 385 front/390 rear when it got installed. Maybe settled a couple mm now. Have maybe 1.5 finger gap. Last pic is of the wife's daily. 1 finger gap at most.
 

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Could someone explain Hub to Fender?
Measurement from the middle of your wheel to the fender.

But what I like to do is measure from the bottom lip of the wheel to the fender. Take that measurement and subtract the diameter of the wheel divided by two. This is because sometimes it's hard to gauge exactly where the middle of the wheel is, but it's easier to clip the measuring tape to the bottom lip of the wheel.
 
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+1

I know it's just a matter of time. Get a new car thinking things have changed and you go right back to doing the same stuff. :)

Hey fellas, have you ever come to a website and come across a link where you know you really shouldn't click on but you click on it anyway. ;)
That's how I feel about this thread. Dang it! I'm in the middle of my Taco build (yes, the antithesis of Tesla). I lift my truck, now I wanna drop my Tesla.
KW (and MPP) is this ish - I ran them on my Audis back in the day and they were so nice.
 
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Hey fellas, have you ever come to a website and come across a link where you know you really shouldn't click on but you click on it anyway. ;)
That's how I feel about this thread. Dang it! I'm in the middle of my Taco build (yes, the antithesis of Tesla). I lift my truck, now I wanna drop my Tesla.
KW (and MPP) is this ish - I ran them on my Audis back in the day and they were so nice.
You can do way worse than landing on this page ;)
 
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Hey fellas, have you ever come to a website and come across a link where you know you really shouldn't click on but you click on it anyway. ;)
That's how I feel about this thread. Dang it! I'm in the middle of my Taco build (yes, the antithesis of Tesla). I lift my truck, now I wanna drop my Tesla.
KW (and MPP) is this ish - I ran them on my Audis back in the day and they were so nice.
You'll love it!
 
Anyone here with mud flaps and height set at lowest recommended? If so, are you scrapping the flaps pretty often and is there potential damage to anything else besides just the flaps? I’m fine with replacing the flaps every once in a while.
 
Anyone here with mud flaps and height set at lowest recommended? If so, are you scrapping the flaps pretty often and is there potential damage to anything else besides just the flaps? I’m fine with replacing the flaps every once in a while.

I have mud flaps and coils at basically at lowest setting. They're diy rally armour flaps so I measured out my desired height prior to installing. I redrilled the holes after I lowered the car. Shouldn't be much potential for damage other than maybe the clips/lining but it should be pretty minimal. I scrape my rear flaps on my driveway daily and no damage so far other than the very bottom of the flaps.
 

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I have mud flaps and coils at basically at lowest setting. They're diy rally armour flaps so I measured out my desired height prior to installing. I redrilled the holes after I lowered the car. Shouldn't be much potential for damage other than maybe the clips/lining but it should be pretty minimal. I scrape my rear flaps on my driveway daily and no damage so far other than the very bottom of the flaps.
whoa! your car looks like its hovering... is this a software update? 😁
 
Hi -

Id love the opinion from some folks who purchased these.
My only goal is to reduce the stiff ride and bumps. No desire to adjust the height of the car.

I’ve lowered tire pressure but would still like to retain 20” tires.

Yes 3k is expensive, but worth it if it helps significantly. Will it? Or is this a dumb idea / overkill.

Asked another way, is everyone buying these for track use and to lower the car or are there people just looking for a smooooth ride? I’d love to hear from y’all :)
Several not mutually exclusive ways to improve ride: 1) drop some serious unsprung weight (you can replace the rotors with lighter ones, replace the wheels with lighter ones, downsize the wheels 19 in which sounds like it's something you wouldn't be interested in 2) get a better riding Tire (if you got one of the newer performance models they've gone away from the best-in-class Michelin Pilot Sport 4S to the 2nd or 3rd in class Pirelli p zero. It does not ride as well however); 3) change compression or at least optimally tune both compression and rebound 4) prevent the car from hitting its bump stops except in the most extreme circumstances. The Mountain Pass Performance Comfort coilover kit achieves #3 and #4 and if you get the adjustable version of that you have the luxury of tuning your car if you don't like the initial settings. We have that kit on my wife's car and it is set at a very comfortable 12/10 where the ride is better than stock but the handling is also better as well. We dropped some unsprung weight by getting lighter Wheels so the car really does ride better than stock. My car has the sport kit with even lighter Wheels but super wide tires (265/30 fronts, 275/30 rears) and it rides a little better than the stock car did (no pitching or pogoing but it's very Firm) while it handles in a different universe.

So there really are a range of tuning options with the mountain pass coilover kits. You can get a much better riding car that handles virtually as well or maybe a little bit better or you can get a car that handles leagues better and probably rides over all about as well to a little bit better if you like firmness. Or you can split the difference and simultaneously get some ride and some handling benefits. That would be the Comfort adjustable coilover kit set somewhere in the middle of its range.
 
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So I’ve driven over 300 miles on these. Here are my experience:
  1. Height is on recommended settings at 16mm rear perch and 55mm front perch. These settings give me even height all around, contrary to Barrygold’s experience.
  2. I got it installed at parts3xpress
  3. These are noticeably more comfortable with the right settings. Highway comfort has improved greatly similar to other’s experience.
  4. Originally I had the compression/rebound at 12/12 all around. But felt that rebound was too soft so I adjust it to 12/10 all around and liking it a lot more.
  5. With a 1.5 inch drop on MYLR, my front camber is at -1.6 degrees. My rear camber before alignment was -1.8 degrees but I also got MPP rear camber arm and so was able to get the rear dialed to -1.0 degree after alignment.
D6C9E4A9-FEE2-4D1C-B97B-1A3CBBAF608C.jpeg
 
Thanks for the pics. Looks like I’m going to roll with that height.

In Hawaii we normally back into our parking spot/spaces. I need full clearance of parking block to back in because most parking spaces are short and tight.
Yea I’m not going any lower than this. I’ve had lowered cars before and am very familiar with the height of some speed bumps in my area to go that low again.
 
Got alignment done after ~1000 miles at Tru-Line Bellevue, who also installed my suspension, corner-balanced, and did post-install initial alignment and recommended I come back at 1K miles. Great experience as always.

Inside of rear tire on both sides were showing heavier wear than rest of tire, likely happening prior to suspension change (1K miles on my Michelin PS A/S4 tires prior to MPP coilovers), but also possible as new suspension settled and threw off alignment. Likely due to strong regen. bias on rear motor/tires and heavy foot. Jesse @MountainPass recommended -1.2 deg. camber, shop did -1.1 deg. for extra caution and believes inner rear wear should no longer be an issue. Definitely glad I got the MPP adjustable rear camber arms. As front camber is non-adjustable, shop thinks those will show irregular wear, if anything; those have been wearing evenly so far for my use (again, probably due to rear motor regen/torque bias, and I don’t track the car). To be clear, the specified ranges in the printout are that of the shop's, not Tesla spec.

It's interesting to see how much the alignment numbers have drifted since the initial alignment from suspension bits settling after accumulating miles.

Did some hard driving afterwards and car handles very well, planted and stable at speed and bumps. Very fast turns at intersections (to see if rear would skip/slip) felt great and did not have any loss of grip.

2nd alignment.jpg


For reference, this was alignment after a few miles post-install:
initial alignment.jpg
 
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