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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers

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Just wanted to chime in here and say that I love these MPP coilovers thus far! Communication with MPP was excellent while I impatiently waited for delivery :)
I've had mine installed now for almost a month. Had them installed by a local shop, who did a great job. I'm thinking that I probably need to soften them up a bit, but I'm not setup to do that myself just yet...so I guess I need to decide whether I want to invest in a jack/stands or pay a shop to adjust for me... I'm not in too big a rush - might become more of a problem if the fam and I decide to take a road trip this summer.

Not the greatest shot, but here it is:
p2603600752-4.jpg


What do you all think I could safely install spacer wise to get a little more flush?
Curious where you have them set on compression and rebound?
 
TBH I'm not sure, lol. I'll have to review the paperwork from the installer, but I think he said it was set to MPP recommended settings - so I'm guessing that is 12/12 and 10/8?

On the model 3 kit it's 12 and 10 both front and rear compression and rebound as kind of a good default compromise with good ride and significant handling improvements. So slightly firmer rebound than compression. My wife was initially very skeptical but she really likes the ride on her performance model 3 with the Comfort kit set that way. I have the sport kit set firmer at 10 / 8.
 
looks great!! any scraping from the mudflaps? I'm needing some but hesitant to purchase because I think ground clearance won't be good.
My front flaps will scrap on speed bumps if I go over them really slowly (which I thought would prevent scraping). I've found if I go a little faster, the flaps have cleared the bump by the time the car returns to its normal position. I think your a little lower than me even so you will probably have the same issue.
 
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Just wanted to chime in here and say that I love these MPP coilovers thus far! Communication with MPP was excellent while I impatiently waited for delivery :)
I've had mine installed now for almost a month. Had them installed by a local shop, who did a great job. I'm thinking that I probably need to soften them up a bit, but I'm not setup to do that myself just yet...so I guess I need to decide whether I want to invest in a jack/stands or pay a shop to adjust for me... I'm not in too big a rush - might become more of a problem if the fam and I decide to take a road trip this summer.

Not the greatest shot, but here it is:
p2603600752-4.jpg


What do you all think I could safely install spacer wise to get a little more flush?
Is it lowered at all or at stock height? How are your mudflaps, any issues?
 
Is it lowered at all or at stock height? How are your mudflaps, any issues?
I have the Unplugged Performance Coil-overs and my Model Y is lowered. the front is 1.25" lower and the rear is 2.0" lower. Up until yesterday I had no mud-flap issues. But I was careful to approach speed bumps and steep driveway curbs at an angle. Well yesterday I wasn't paying attention and exited a driveway curb straight. Both front flaps hit hard, but I turned sharply and the rears didn't hit. The front passenger side mud-flap was totally ripped off.

I'm having a set of Ohlins Coil-Overs installed by Vinnie's Exotics here in Baton Rouge next Monday and they will be set to stock LR AWD heights.
 
Yep, lowered! I guess I don't know the official amount - I'd have to look at the paperwork, but when I dropped it off for the appointment I asked that it be lowered to MPP's lowest recommended height and settings.

No issue with the mud flaps (yet)
That would be roughly 1 inch lower than your stock height, still pretty conservative, and lots of suspension travel for a smooth ride!
 
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Now that I've got my coilovers installed, I'm starting to play with adjustments. The bump/compression settings I understand. The rebound is a little fuzzy. I understand it controls how fast the shock returns to its original position but I don't know what that equates to in ride feel. What sort of ride characteristics should I look for to signify the need for more or less rebound?
 
Now that I've got my coilovers installed, I'm starting to play with adjustments. The bump/compression settings I understand. The rebound is a little fuzzy. I understand it controls how fast the shock returns to its original position but I don't know what that equates to in ride feel. What sort of ride characteristics should I look for to signify the need for more or less rebound?
If you feel like the suspension compresses then springs back up too quickly, it means you need more rebound damping (lower number of clicks from full stiff). Too much rebound damping will make the car feel like it is falling down into potholes and bumps.

One of the big problems with the stock dampers is how little rebound damping they have. If you drive behind a stock Model Y, you will note that the rear of the car will hit a bump then come flying up quickly, which is what makes your passengers complain.

The dampers have enough adjustment to reduce the rebound damping too much and get bouncy, so you have all the tools you need to get the ride to the best possible place for your own taste.
 
If you feel like the suspension compresses then springs back up too quickly, it means you need more rebound damping (lower number of clicks from full stiff). Too much rebound damping will make the car feel like it is falling down into potholes and bumps.
I had to re-read that a few times to see get it, and I think I almost do. So let's see if I have it right.

I think we all know, from the previous post, how compression dial works. I'll take an example, made up shock with adjustments from 1-4, like KW's. A lower number, (like 1) means that its super difficult to push the rod into the cylinder. a high number, (like 14), means you can push the rod into the cylinder very easily.

Now, for the rebound dial, a lower number, like 1, would mean that, for the same shock, starting from a fully compressed state, the rod will shoot out super fast, launching a Lego to the top of Mt. Everest, and a high number, like 14, would be like an elevator submerged in molasses, taking 30 minutes to go from fully compressed to full extension. Not that extreme, but did I get this right so far?

So, putting this together, Let's take a shock which has a rebound setting of say, 14, (which is super slow to extend) and is mounted to the rear wheel, and then have the car drive over a 2x4 lying flat on the ground. What will then happen is this.......

Right when the car hits the 2x4. the shock is going to compress, pushing the wheel up into the wheel well. Then, after the car drives past the 2x4, if the rebound number setting is not low enough (meaning, the shock extends way to slowly), then the wheel is still stuck up in the wheel well, and not descending to the ground fast enough. Since the wheel has not descended, that part of the car falls onto the ground instead, jarring the occupants..

Is that sort of the gist of it?
 
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I had to re-read that a few times to see get it, and I think I almost do. So let's see if I have it right.

I think we all know, from the previous post, how compression dial works. I'll take an example, made up shock with adjustments from 1-4, like KW's. A lower number, (like 1) means that its super difficult to push the rod into the cylinder. a high number, (like 14), means you can push the rod into the cylinder very easily.

Now, for the rebound dial, a lower number, like 1, would mean that, for the same shock, starting from a fully compressed state, the rod will shoot out super fast, launching a Lego to the top of Mt. Everest, and a high number, like 14, would be like an elevator submerged in molasses, taking 30 minutes to go from fully compressed to full extension. Not that extreme, but did I get this right so far?

So, putting this together, Let's take a shock which has a rebound setting of say, 14, (which is super slow to extend) and is mounted to the rear wheel, and then have the car drive over a 2x4 lying flat on the ground. What will then happen is this.......

Right when the car hits the 2x4. the shock is going to compress, pushing the wheel up into the wheel well. Then, after the car drives past the 2x4, if the rebound number setting is not low enough (meaning, the shock extends way to slowly), then the wheel is still stuck up in the wheel well, and not descending to the ground fast enough. Since the wheel has not descended, that part of the car falls onto the ground instead, jarring the occupants..

Is that sort of the gist of it?

You've got it! The only thing is that for the rebound, if you set it to 1, it will be full stiff, which means it will extend very slowly like an elevator submerged in molasses (I love that). Setting the rebound to 14 will mean it can extend quite quickly without much resistance.

Your example was spot on though and you have a 100% understanding of it :)
 
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Anyone recommend an installer for MPP coilovers in the Phoenix area? The one recommended to me seems like the work would be good, but he never follows through, rarely answers the phone, never responds to emails. Not really what I'm looking for in a business.