I hope that you or NorCal are adjusting them to these settings and not depending on them leaving the KW factory at these settings. I was told that they could be anything leaving the factory. I.e. I'm not sure what you mean by original settings
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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers
- Thread starter noshadow
- Start date
I hope that you or NorCal are adjusting them to these settings and not depending on them leaving the KW factory at these settings. I was told that they could be anything leaving the factory. I.e. I'm not sure what you mean by original settings
I would definitely adjust them when they come out of the box. When they leave the factory, they are at whatever settings were used for the damper dyno testing of each damper!
Ah, I thought they came out of the box at 12/12 10/8, but maybe I was reading something else?
I just drove the car back home, and if they did adjust it to that, it feels pretty harsh still. The feeling is different and possibly better, but not really much more comfortable.
I'll have to ask what they ended up doing.
I totally misread the other posts then. I guess I assumed they would be 12/12 and 10/8, but maybe that's not the case.
I'll ask them what, if anything, they did.
So far it's really stiff and about the same as before.
I pre-set mine so they probably thought that you did the same and that they didn't need to do anything.
I think that the settings that everyone is talking about is what MPP recommended for initial settings
gundarx
Member
It’s more likely that the KW dampers came just a few turns (IIRC mine were 4 turns) from full-stiff which is going to be too hard unless you’re in North Carolina with immaculate roads. I think KW assumes the customer drives these on the autobahn or the Nür
It’s more likely that the KW dampers came just a few turns (IIRC mine were 4 turns) from full-stiff which is going to be too hard unless you’re in North Carolina with immaculate roads. I think KW assumes the customer drives these on the autobahn or the Nür
I agree. I didn't have to turn them much to reach full stiff.
Got it! Yeah that might totally be it. I talked to the shop and they said for me to bring it back in on Wednesday and they'd check it all out. They didn't confirm that they actually set it to 12/12 and 10/8, so I'm just going to guess they just installed them as is. The good thing is they'll do this for me without charging, and they were really nice about it. No biggie.
It’s more likely that the KW dampers came just a few turns (IIRC mine were 4 turns) from full-stiff which is going to be too hard unless you’re in North Carolina with immaculate roads. I think KW assumes the customer drives these on the autobahn or the Nür
I'm hoping you're right and that I'm riding on a very stiff setting. I was a little sad that it felt just as stiff as before (though different), after all that. I mean, I am totally prepared to accept that I may have unreasonable expectations, or that my butt dyno is numb to the change, but from reading what others say, this should be at least a little noticeable. The only thing I notice is the feel is a bit different, but the comfort is as poor as before. Crossing my fingers we're just on like 1 or 2 clicks from stiffest
Got it! Yeah that might totally be it. I talked to the shop and they said for me to bring it back in on Wednesday and they'd check it all out. They didn't confirm that they actually set it to 12/12 and 10/8, so I'm just going to guess they just installed them as is. The good thing is they'll do this for me without charging, and they were really nice about it. No biggie.
I'm hoping you're right and that I'm riding on a very stiff setting. I was a little sad that it felt just as stiff as before (though different), after all that. I mean, I am totally prepared to accept that I may have unreasonable expectations, or that my butt dyno is numb to the change, but from reading what others say, this should be at least a little noticeable. The only thing I notice is the feel is a bit different, but the comfort is as poor as before. Crossing my fingers we're just on like 1 or 2 clicks from stiffest
You can easily see where you are by checking the rebound (top) of the rear dampeners. Mine are easily accessible since I didn't change the height.
Wreckz
Member
It seems like you folks are ALL Model Y Performance owners. And from my knowledge you folks are already 1 inch lower than A Model Y Long Range???
So when I put MPP Coil overs on my Model Y LR, What Height do you think it's going to be?
So when I put MPP Coil overs on my Model Y LR, What Height do you think it's going to be?
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I have a LR Model Y and I told the shop that I didn't want to change the height and they didn't.
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OMG fantastic, thank you for that! It's great to know how much they care and want to get all the information they can to do right by their customers.
I'm convinced my settings are just on one of the stiffest clicks at this point. I'll report back on the thread tomorrow once we have figured it all out.
Just went to look to see if I could see the rebound setting on the rears, and sure enough, they're both set to "3".
Maybe I'll bust out the instructions later to see if I can just make these quick adjustments myself instead of driving back to the shop. It takes about 35 minutes each way, plus a little time for them to do it, so if it's easy enough, maybe I can just do it myself... (I've swapped engines and transmissions out of hondas in the past, how hard can this be?)
Maybe I'll bust out the instructions later to see if I can just make these quick adjustments myself instead of driving back to the shop. It takes about 35 minutes each way, plus a little time for them to do it, so if it's easy enough, maybe I can just do it myself... (I've swapped engines and transmissions out of hondas in the past, how hard can this be?)
The adjusters themselves only count from 0 to 5, so the best bet is to turn it towards full stiff and see how many clicks away it was!
Question: how do I access the top adjustments? I popped off the trim so I can see the intake and small battery, but there seems to be a rubber "hat" over where I think I'm supposed to use the hex tool. Or am I looking in the wrong place? Do I just pull this "hat" off?
EDIT: I just yolo'd it and tried to take the hat off, and there it was. I just used an interior trim wedge removing tool and it popped right off. This top adjustment has VERY subtle clicks, I had to go back and forth a few times to feel the clicks towards the stiffest setting.
The rear adjustments I got. I found them to be set to 10/9, though I can't be sure as the "bump" setting was so tight at the end I might be off by one. But I've set the rears to 14/14 for now. The front "rebound" (I think that's the one on the bottom) was set to 6 on the left side, and 5 on the right, which is a good thing because of how stiff everything still felt. I've set those to 14. Now I just need to get to the tops to set those to 14 and take her out for a spin.
So far this has been easy to adjust by myself, wheels stayed on, though I did lift one rear wheel off the ground with a jack/puck to get easier access to the bump setting son the rear.
Now I just have to figure out the front top adjustment...
EDIT: I just yolo'd it and tried to take the hat off, and there it was. I just used an interior trim wedge removing tool and it popped right off. This top adjustment has VERY subtle clicks, I had to go back and forth a few times to feel the clicks towards the stiffest setting.
The rear adjustments I got. I found them to be set to 10/9, though I can't be sure as the "bump" setting was so tight at the end I might be off by one. But I've set the rears to 14/14 for now. The front "rebound" (I think that's the one on the bottom) was set to 6 on the left side, and 5 on the right, which is a good thing because of how stiff everything still felt. I've set those to 14. Now I just need to get to the tops to set those to 14 and take her out for a spin.
So far this has been easy to adjust by myself, wheels stayed on, though I did lift one rear wheel off the ground with a jack/puck to get easier access to the bump setting son the rear.
Now I just have to figure out the front top adjustment...
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Alright, in about 45 minutes I got it all figured out. Here's how I did my adjustment:
Rears:
1. My car is stock height still, so I was able to squeeze an arm in to adjust the top rebound adjustment. The stiffer you go, the harder it gets to turn. I had to use a small "hook tool" to push/pull at the tightest setting, but otherwise straightforward.
2. The bottom one is also pretty easy to access. I did jack the rear of the car up for a second so I could get a better look, but the other side was accessible since I knew what to look for. At the stiffest setting, it was hard to get the last click.
Fronts:
1. Bottom is pretty easy again, so no need to jack the car up
2. The top adjustment, just remove the top trim (not the whole frunk, just the trim above battery/intake, and then I just had to remove the rubber hat off the passenger side, and on the driver's side I just popped one clip for the window washer fluid reservoir, and pulled it forward a bit to pop out. Then I could get the hat off. These top adjusters' clicks are VERY subtle compared to everything else. They feel more like little bumps. it took me awhile to figure it out. Go slow.
Overall, I didn't feel like the car was any better after getting them installed, but that's because my settings were at 10/9 in the rear, and 6/8 and 5/8 on the fronts! I guess the rear was close enough to what I was hoping for, but the fronts were much different. I think they were 6/8 and 5/8, but they could have both been 5's or 6's, as I might have counted wrong. Now everything is 14/14 all around. I'm going to try this out and see how it feels. If anything, now I know how to readjust as I need.
Rears:
1. My car is stock height still, so I was able to squeeze an arm in to adjust the top rebound adjustment. The stiffer you go, the harder it gets to turn. I had to use a small "hook tool" to push/pull at the tightest setting, but otherwise straightforward.
2. The bottom one is also pretty easy to access. I did jack the rear of the car up for a second so I could get a better look, but the other side was accessible since I knew what to look for. At the stiffest setting, it was hard to get the last click.
Fronts:
1. Bottom is pretty easy again, so no need to jack the car up
2. The top adjustment, just remove the top trim (not the whole frunk, just the trim above battery/intake, and then I just had to remove the rubber hat off the passenger side, and on the driver's side I just popped one clip for the window washer fluid reservoir, and pulled it forward a bit to pop out. Then I could get the hat off. These top adjusters' clicks are VERY subtle compared to everything else. They feel more like little bumps. it took me awhile to figure it out. Go slow.
Overall, I didn't feel like the car was any better after getting them installed, but that's because my settings were at 10/9 in the rear, and 6/8 and 5/8 on the fronts! I guess the rear was close enough to what I was hoping for, but the fronts were much different. I think they were 6/8 and 5/8, but they could have both been 5's or 6's, as I might have counted wrong. Now everything is 14/14 all around. I'm going to try this out and see how it feels. If anything, now I know how to readjust as I need.
Haven’t checked this thread in while, got sucked into the Lucid Motors, CCIV SPAC drama
I haven’t noticed any settling but only 200mi on the coilovers.
Still loving them. I’m still caught off guard at how “comfortable” they are when I travel over a bump that used to piss me off and it no longer does.
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