MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers

[Ruffles]

How many clicks are there supposed to be? My front compression has 14 clicks from full soft to full firm. Front rebound is 20 clicks. On the rear compression, from full stiff it turns 12 clicks and then stops clicking and doesn't feel like its hitting the detents but seems to turn 3 more positions before it gets hard to turn for a total of 15 positions? Rear rebound is 20 clicks.

Is this normal? It seems some of you have more clicks? If so, are the settings being discussed comparable? Some suggested 14 all around but that maxes out my front compression and almost maxes out the rear.

 

[Wreckz]

I’m thinking on the model y mpp struts I think you are right that the bump can go to 14 max. When I tried to go beyond that…I hit a wall. As for the rebound I never attempted to beyond 14, but by the sound of it you can go up to 20.

 

[TheDriveway]

Oh, this is perfect. Your shop is 15 minutes from my house. Can I get the Coil overs directly from you and have you install and set the camber? 2021 MY LR

Hello Rich you can order and install the parts through us. I'll send over a PM for details.

 

[Ruffles]

Mission accomplished...sort of . My son and I spent all day on Saturday and got it done BUT, I may need to make some adjustments. First, lets talk ride and settings. Comfort was my main priority so I decided to got one click softer than MPP recommended for bump. They recommend 12 for bump and 12 for rebound in front. I used 13 bump and 12 rebound. For the rear, the MPP recommendation is 10 bump and 8 rebound. One of the install videos mentioned keeping the bump & rebound within 2 clicks so I adjusted both and used 11 bump and 9 rebound. I've driven about 100 miles and the ride feels good. It's definitely smoother than stock and might have a little less body roll (but is very close to stock). I'm happy with the settings and might experiment further but first, I need to sort out the ride height.

First, measuring from the hub to fender is dumb because you can't accurately determine the center of the hub. Why aren't we all measuring from the ground to the fender lip? I took both measurements and this is what I had before. Sorry for mixing units but I didn't have a metric tape measure.

Before
	Drivers Side Hub to Fender	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passenger Side Hub to Fender	Passenger Side Ground to Fender
Front	409mm	29 3/4"	411mm	29 5/8"
Rear	416mm	30 1/8"	416mm	30 1/8"

MPP says with the front spring perch at 55mm and the rear perch at 16mm, the final ride height will be 395mm hub to fender. Judging from some of the pictures in this thread, I decided I wanted to go a tiny bit lower so I decided to take 5mm off and used a front spring perch of 50mm and a rear perch of 11mm. I used digital calipers to set them so I know they were exact. The end result is the following:

After	Drivers Side Hub to Fender	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passenger Side Hub to Fender	Passenger Side Ground to Fender
Front	380mm	28 3/4"	380mm	28 5/8"
Rear	390mm	29 3/8"	390mm	29 3/8"

Excuse the crappy pics from my phone but this is what it looks like. First pic is both front and rear done and how it sits right now.

To me, it seems the rear is higher than the front. This is also evident in the measurements. The front dropped exactly 1" but the rear only dropped 3/4". I'm wondering if I measured in the wrong place? The MPP pictures weren't very clear. Here is where I measured:

Is this correct? Also, have any of you experienced any settling? I'm thinking I'm going to take the rears apart tomorrow and lower it a bit more but should I wait? If they are going to settle, I'll raise the front up a bit and let them settle to where I want it. If not, I'll lower the rear. Hopefully, it won't settle and I can just adjust the rears since that is easier. Just for comparison, this picture has the fronts lowered and the rear stock.

Finally, I think it would be a BIG help if MPP would provide torque values. I did my best to comb through the thread and watch videos to get torque values but many came from Model 3s and there were some inconsistencies. This should have been included in the instructions.

 

[dfwatt]

Mission accomplished...sort of . My son and I spent all day on Saturday and got it done BUT, I may need to make some adjustments. First, lets talk ride and settings. Comfort was my main priority so I decided to got one click softer than MPP recommended for bump. They recommend 12 for bump and 12 for rebound in front. I used 13 bump and 12 rebound. For the rear, the MPP recommendation is 10 bump and 8 rebound. One of the install videos mentioned keeping the bump & rebound within 2 clicks so I adjusted both and used 11 bump and 9 rebound. I've driven about 100 miles and the ride feels good. It's definitely smoother than stock and might have a little less body roll (but is very close to stock). I'm happy with the settings and might experiment further but first, I need to sort out the ride height.

First, measuring from the hub to fender is dumb because you can't accurately determine the center of the hub. Why aren't we all measuring from the ground to the fender lip? I took both measurements and this is what I had before. Sorry for mixing units but I didn't have a metric tape measure.

Before
	Drivers Side Hub to Fender	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passenger Side Hub to Fender	Passenger Side Ground to Fender
Front	409mm	29 3/4"	411mm	29 5/8"
Rear	416mm	30 1/8"	416mm	30 1/8"

MPP says with the front spring perch at 55mm and the rear perch at 16mm, the final ride height will be 395mm hub to fender. Judging from some of the pictures in this thread, I decided I wanted to go a tiny bit lower so I decided to take 5mm off and used a front spring perch of 50mm and a rear perch of 11mm. I used digital calipers to set them so I know they were exact. The end result is the following:

After	Drivers Side Hub to Fender	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passenger Side Hub to Fender	Passenger Side Ground to Fender
Front	380mm	28 3/4"	380mm	28 5/8"
Rear	390mm	29 3/8"	390mm	29 3/8"

Excuse the crappy pics from my phone but this is what it looks like. First pic is both front and rear done and how it sits right now.
View attachment 668064

To me, it seems the rear is higher than the front. This is also evident in the measurements. The front dropped exactly 1" but the rear only dropped 3/4". I'm wondering if I measured in the wrong place? The MPP pictures weren't very clear. Here is where I measured:
View attachment 668065

Is this correct? Also, have any of you experienced any settling? I'm thinking I'm going to take the rears apart tomorrow and lower it a bit more but should I wait? If they are going to settle, I'll raise the front up a bit and let them settle to where I want it. If not, I'll lower the rear. Hopefully, it won't settle and I can just adjust the rears since that is easier. Just for comparison, this picture has the fronts lowered and the rear stock.
View attachment 668066

Finally, I think it would be a BIG help if MPP would provide torque values. I did my best to comb through the thread and watch videos to get torque values but many came from Model 3s and there were some inconsistencies. This should have been included in the instructions.

The car looks great and your cell phone pictures are definitely not crappy. As for torque values they are the same as the model 3. Curious which Wheels you have on the car. Like I said the car looks really great and you did a really good job

 

[pt19713]

Personally I like the rake stance and would leave it as is.

 

[WeooooooHuh]

Looks great Ruffles! Copied your chart to show you my measurements. I am with PT19713, I also enjoy the raked look.

Before	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passengers Side Ground to Fender	After	Drivers Side Ground to Fender	Passenger Side Ground to Fender
Front	29 3/4"	29 3/4"	Front	28 3/8"	28 3/8"
Rear	30 1/4"	30 1/8"	Rear	29 1/4"	29 3/8"

 

[vtplm]

The reason for hub to fender instead of ground to fender is that if you run different sized wheels/tires it will affect ground to fender but not hub to fender. To make it apples to apples regarding suspension only, it will eliminate one variable. The is is particularly important when you're talking about suspension geometry at the extremes. Easiest way I've found was to measure to the bottom lip of the center cap and subtract half the diameter for a more accurate measurement.

 

[cYnbios]

First, measuring from the hub to fender is dumb because you can't accurately determine the center of the hub. Why aren't we all measuring from the ground to the fender lip?

Because different wheel size yields different measurements.

To find the exact center of the hub, measure the diameter of your wheel (lip to lip) and divide by two. Then measure from the bottom lip of the wheel to the fender, and subtract that number to actually get hub to fender.

EDIT: Exactly what vtplm says too haha

 

[Ruffles]

I took a few more mm out of the back and set to perch to 6.5mm. Its hard to see from the pic but I like it . I'm going to see if I can get it aligned today and then clean up the garage

 

[Wreckz]

I took a few more mm out of the back and set to perch to 6.5mm. Its hard to see from the pic but I like it . I'm going to see if I can get it aligned today and then clean up the garage
View attachment 668173

Perfect.
Did you remove the 2 nuts to re-adjust the rear perched? Also how many mm did you go lower on your adjustment? Another 5-8mm?

 

[Ruffles]

Perfect.
Did you remove the 2 nuts to re-adjust the rear perched? Also how many mm did you go lower on your adjustment? Another 5-8mm?

Yeah. It was pretty quick now that I know how to do it. I took 4.5mm out so now I'm at 6.5mm rear pearch.

 

[vtplm]

So I've been playing with my suspension settings gradually going stiffer. Currently at 11/10 in the front and 10/8 in the back. About 1.5 camber front 1.9 rear. I went canyon carving this weekend with a bunch of buddies up at angles crest -- mostly race prepped ice cars. Obviously not remotely in the same league for that kind of stuff but did surprisingly well. Very stable and confidence inspiring with what felt like just a hair of the rear wanting to rotate. I was able to outpace a stock f80 m3 with a driver probably around my skill level.

 

[VikH]

I took a few more mm out of the back and set to perch to 6.5mm. Its hard to see from the pic but I like it . I'm going to see if I can get it aligned today and then clean up the garage
View attachment 668173

This looks really good!

 

[TheDriveway]

I took a few more mm out of the back and set to perch to 6.5mm. Its hard to see from the pic but I like it . I'm going to see if I can get it aligned today and then clean up the garage
View attachment 668173

Gorgeous. That setup looks amazing

 

[Ruffles]

For those of you that lowered your car a decent amount, were you able to get your front camber dial back in? I had Tesla align my car today (details in a different thread) and they got everything set except front camber. I didn't expect this to be out. I thought the MPP Corkscrew arms were only for racing and needing to dial in extreme amounts of camber. One nice thing is that they gave me a screen shot of the factory settings in case anyone needs them for another shop. What will be the effect of this much front camber? Just increased wear on the inside front tire?

Factory recommendations:

My results:

 

[cYnbios]

Correct that front cambers are not adjustable. The lower you go the more out of spec it'll be. I only have MPP Rear Camber arms so I'm within spec for the rears. Will have to just eat the wear on the fronts. My fronts are at -1.6 degrees, dropped at MPP recommended height so your results are about right.

 

[Wreckz]

For those of you that lowered your car a decent amount, were you able to get your front camber dial back in? I had Tesla align my car today (details in a different thread) and they got everything set except front camber. I didn't expect this to be out. I thought the MPP Corkscrew arms were only for racing and needing to dial in extreme amounts of camber. One nice thing is that they gave me a screen shot of the factory settings in case anyone needs them for another shop. What will be the effect of this much front camber? Just increased wear on the inside front tire?

Factory recommendations:
View attachment 669272



My results:

View attachment 669273

Thanks for the screenshot. I made an appointment for my alignment at my go to 3rd party place. He said he didn't have 2021 MY data, but to just find numbers on the web and they can input them in. I'm guessing they do have numbers for a 2020 MYP though.... Do 2020 vs 2021 have different specs?

Anyways comparing your screenshot and other folks alignment here, seems like the Tesla min max is must tighter.

 

[Nolakai]

View attachment 638893 View attachment 638894 View attachment 638895 View attachment 638896

Wow, your car is absolutely beautiful. Love the rims and the caliper covers with the gray.

 

[teamRAVEGREEN]

Just wanted to chime in here and say that I love these MPP coilovers thus far! Communication with MPP was excellent while I impatiently waited for delivery
I've had mine installed now for almost a month. Had them installed by a local shop, who did a great job. I'm thinking that I probably need to soften them up a bit, but I'm not setup to do that myself just yet...so I guess I need to decide whether I want to invest in a jack/stands or pay a shop to adjust for me... I'm not in too big a rush - might become more of a problem if the fam and I decide to take a road trip this summer.

Not the greatest shot, but here it is:

What do you all think I could safely install spacer wise to get a little more flush?