Mounted wrong size wheels - they’re now permanently stuck to the car. Disaster [resolved]

[martyb126]

Holy *sugar* am I an idiot. Had a set of fast wheels EV01 with winter tires for my 2020 M3LR. Bought a 2022 M3P. Quickly looked at the website for the wheels I own and they advertise as fitting all variants of model 3. Perfect.

Winter comes along so I throw the wheels on the car and take off the uberturbines. Went on completely fine. Nothing out of the ordinary. Couple drives later the wheels make a small clunking noise when driving, so I go home to take the wheel off and take a look. Wheel is completely stuck. Start to do some research and learn that there is a performance version of the wheels that have a different center bore diameter.

64.1mm hub bore diameter in the wheels I own. 70.22mm diameter on the proper set….

Bring the car to 2 local shops and Tesla service. Everyone tries to get the wheels off with sledge hammers, everything one can throw at it. I tell them all I don’t care if the wheels crack or break. Everyone gives up and says “they’re stuck. I’m afraid if I hit them any harder I’ll break the car.”

So this is where I’m at. The hub bore was the perfect (disaster) size where it wasn’t too far off where it wouldn’t mount on the car, and the exact size where they won’t even budge a millimeter with extreme force.

I’m at a loss. We’ve tried loosening the lugs and driving 10 feet forward and back to break loose. Leverage with a crow bar. Nothing works.

Anyone have any ideas? Or do I just file a claim with insurance and see if they’ll total it since at some point these tires will be bare and unable to be changed.

 

[MP3Mike]

Or do I just file a claim with insurance and see if they’ll total it since at some point these tires will be bare and unable to be changed.

I've never heard of insurance covering this kind of thing.

As far as what to try, has someone tried heating the wheels?

 

[buckets0fun]

If you're talking about the lip that the P brake rotors have, you'd have known they wouldn't fit within moments of mounting, if the wheels couldn't accommodate said lip. They wouldn't be flush to the rotor hat.

Please post photos looking into the wheel mounting face(hub) at the rotor, this will allow for better help.

 

[Stew-2]

Wow, that is something I’ve not heard of happening before. I guess if it comes down to it you could break out the saws all and angle grinder and cut them off.

 

[mpgxsvcd]

Holy *sugar* am I an idiot. Had a set of fast wheels EV01 with winter tires for my 2020 M3LR. Bought a 2022 M3P. Quickly looked at the website for the wheels I own and they advertise as fitting all variants of model 3. Perfect.

Winter comes along so I throw the wheels on the car and take off the uberturbines. Went on completely fine. Nothing out of the ordinary. Couple drives later the wheels make a small clunking noise when driving, so I go home to take the wheel off and take a look. Wheel is completely stuck. Start to do some research and learn that there is a performance version of the wheels that have a different center bore diameter.

64.1mm hub bore diameter in the wheels I own. 70.22mm diameter on the proper set….

Bring the car to 2 local shops and Tesla service. Everyone tries to get the wheels off with sledge hammers, everything one can throw at it. I tell them all I don’t care if the wheels crack or break. Everyone gives up and says “they’re stuck. I’m afraid if I hit them any harder I’ll break the car.”

So this is where I’m at. The hub bore was the perfect (disaster) size where it wasn’t too far off where it wouldn’t mount on the car, and the exact size where they won’t even budge a millimeter with extreme force.

I’m at a loss. We’ve tried loosening the lugs and driving 10 feet forward and back to break loose. Leverage with a crow bar. Nothing works.

Anyone have any ideas? Or do I just file a claim with insurance and see if they’ll total it since at some point these tires will be bare and unable to be changed.

Something doesn’t sound right. A 6 mm difference is a lot. This page says that ALL Model 3 versions had the exact same 64.1 mm Hub Bore. Who told you that it should be over 70 mm?

The Tesla Model 3 Wheel Guide

Tesla Model 3 Factory Wheel Specs and Options. Factory Spec Wheel Upgrade Options. 18" Model 3 Aero Wheel Specs: 18X8.5" Offset: +40 PCD: 5X114.3 Center Bore: 64.1mm Weight: 21.6 lbs (Without Aero Cover). 19" Model 3 Sport Wheel Specs: 19X8.5" Offset: +40 PCD: 5X114.3 Center Bore: 64.1mm. 20"...

tsportline.com

 

[thesmokingman]

You could remove the spindle/uprights and order new ones? But *sugar*, that's gonna be an ordeal. Then hope for a machine shop with a large enough press... crazy.

 

[martyb126]

I've never heard of insurance covering this kind of thing.

As far as what to try, has someone tried heating the wheels?

Haven’t tried heat yet. Probably worth a shot, though. Thank you

 

[martyb126]

If you're talking about the lip that the P brake rotors have, you'd have known they wouldn't fit within moments of mounting, if the wheels couldn't accommodate said lip. They wouldn't be flush to the rotor hat.

Please post photos looking into the wheel mounting face(hub) at the rotor, this will allow for better help.

I’m not super knowledgeable (clearly) about those specifics. But in terms of mounting these wheels, they went in perfectly fine. Slipped them on to the bolts and hand threaded the lugs an estimated 7-10 rotations before they were snug. Then used the torque wrench for the remaining rotations. I’ve mounted wheels a dozen times or so and nothing felt off about this time compared to any other.

I’ll post some photos when I get some better light and can pop off the center cap

 

[martyb126]

Something doesn’t sound right. A 6 mm difference is a lot. This page says that ALL Model 3 versions had the exact same 64.1 mm Hub Bore. Who told you that it should be over 70 mm?

The Tesla Model 3 Wheel Guide

Tesla Model 3 Factory Wheel Specs and Options. Factory Spec Wheel Upgrade Options. 18" Model 3 Aero Wheel Specs: 18X8.5" Offset: +40 PCD: 5X114.3 Center Bore: 64.1mm Weight: 21.6 lbs (Without Aero Cover). 19" Model 3 Sport Wheel Specs: 19X8.5" Offset: +40 PCD: 5X114.3 Center Bore: 64.1mm. 20"...

tsportline.com

My comments about the hub bore diameter being the issue is from the wheel manufacturer who said their performance wheels have a “slightly altered hub bore” and then pulling the specs off their website. The only other difference is the offset of 35mm on the P wheels and 40mm on the others, although clearing the brake calipers doesn’t seem to be the issue here

 

[driver7]

Have you tried WD40 and similar sprays to help lubricate?

 

[buckets0fun]

I’m not super knowledgeable (clearly) about those specifics. But in terms of mounting these wheels, they went in perfectly fine. Slipped them on to the bolts and hand threaded the lugs an estimated 7-10 rotations before they were snug. Then used the torque wrench for the remaining rotations. I’ve mounted wheels a dozen times or so and nothing felt off about this time compared to any other.

I’ll post some photos when I get some better light and can pop off the center cap

You won't need to removed the center cap. Look at your wheel, take a photo through the spoke from a foot or so back, facing the center of your brake rotor where the wheel seats to the rotor (hat).

I suspect that you live in an area where road salt / grime has caused the wheels to friction fit. I'd also suspect that the shops you dealt with don't want the liability. Next shop, I'd offer to sign the work order with any sort of 'liability waiver' that the shop is comfortable with.

I assume the wheels you have are meant for all 3's, which would track for cost effective model 3 specific wheels. And your comment about them mounting fine. You'd absolutely know if the wheels were not flush against the brake rotor hat.

To be funny, you could always joke with the workers to "hit it (harder) with their purse (sledge hammer)".

 

[father_of_6]

Penetrating oil, heat (a torch)... drill them out?

 

[Xenoilphobe]

 

[Xenoilphobe]

or go get a bearing puller and do this.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Once you get the wheel off, then treat the rotor hats with Wurth SBS Brake Treatment II SKU # 189311069

2018.08.05: Rotor Hat Restore

"The SBS Brake treatment is a revolutionary spray-on metalizing treatment designed to prevent brake noise at the source. When applied as directed, microfine aluminum products form a molecular bond with the rotor/drum friction surfaces. This composite surface finish ends annoying vibrations and brake squeal at the source, giving the assurance of a quality brake job."

Treats pads and rotors-
-Spray a light mist of SBS Brake Treatment directly to the rotors/drums and pads/shoes
-Effective on all brake systems
-No drying time required
-Benefits last up to 1 year or 10,000 miles
-Prevents rust and seizure of lugs
-Extends brake life
-Effectiveness tested from -100 degrees to 1800 degrees

PRICE-$21.00 and includes shipping

NOT ON WEBSITE, CALL TO ORDER

Phone: 1-800-WURTH-USA (1-800-987-8487)
Email: [email protected]
Wurth USA Inc.
93 Grant Street, Ramsey, NJ 07446

 

[LincolnsDoctor]

Maybe this? https://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-3-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-64982.html

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Maybe this? https://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-3-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-64982.html

Exactly, these guys in the shops today have no creativity.

 

[XPsionic]

So the set of wheels were on your M3LR, then you got a M3P and you put them on. If they fit your M3LR fine then there's no way the hub's the wrong diameter?

In any case, try the bearing puller or gear puller methods as posted above. Leave a lug nut on a few turns so the wheel doesn't just fly off the car like in the video, lol.

Maybe this? https://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-3-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-64982.html

 

[martyb126]

Exactly, these guys in the shops today have no creativity.

Thanks for all of your ideas. I definitely like the idea of the gear puller. I’m not sure the wheels will have best spot to place those hooks, and I’m concerned that the hooks are just going to eat through the rim with them touching such a small surface area of the wheel, though.

 

[martyb126]

So the set of wheels were on your M3LR, then you got a M3P and you put them on. If they fit your M3LR fine then there's no way the hub's the wrong diameter?

In any case, try the bearing puller or gear puller methods as posted above. Leave a lug nut on a few turns so the wheel doesn't just fly off the car like in the video, lol.

Baffling to me, too, but the wheel manufacturer said the wheels shouldn’t be used on a performance model 3 because the hub bore is incorrect on those wheels. Haven’t totally solved why, but I think it has something to do with the little 1-3mm lip that is on the performance hub that isn’t on the LR.