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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

Discussion in 'Model 3: Driving Dynamics' started by beastmode13, May 24, 2019.

  1. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    #1 beastmode13, May 24, 2019
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
    Two of the weakest link of P3 are the brakes and suspension. Tesla walked a fine line between performance and comfort, for most of the customers, it might be perfect. However, I like my brake a lot more aggressive and suspension a lot more controlled and tight. When Mountain Pass Performance @MountainPass announced the Sports Coilovers for AWD/Performance Model 3 I jumped. I was number 11 on the queue. After seven months of the wait, the coilovers arrived. It was worth it, IMHO.

    My P3 is a daily driver with the intention to do 3 to 6 track days. For daily driving, I have the rebound set at 10 and compression 12 per MPP recommendation. With this setting, it retains the comfort similar to stock, but with much better control in reduction of pitch during braking and acceleration, and great amount of reduction in body lean during cornering. The car feels planted over undulating bumps compares to wallowing of the stock suspension. There is no additional detectable noise or vibration to the MPP system.

    I had upgraded my brakes to Racing Brake 380mm BBK before the MPP coilovers upgrade. During the bedding process of the new RB XT910 pads on the BBK, with the consecutive braking, I felt nauseous from the hard pitch of car. During the MPP installation, I swapped in RB XT970, which is more aggressive than the XT910. After the MPP installation, I ran the bedding process for the XT970. Even with the more aggressive pad, the pitch of car was significantly less, I was not nauseous at all. Here is the thread on the Racing Brake BBK installation and impression.

    Now the installation instruction. MPP instruction is good, it covers all the basic, so my instructions will serve as a pictorial with insights to tricks I used to make this one-person installation as smooth as possible.

    Prep:
    1. Get a thin-wall 13mm socket, the OD should not be more than 16.75mm. This is necessary to remove the three nut that secures the damper to the suspension tower.
    2. Old fashion hand file works the best to remove excess welding bead at the bottom and the side of the aligning pin. This is not a weight-bearing feature so removal of the weld bead at the bottom and side is okay.
    3. I also used a Dremel tool to remove a bit of material around the alignment slot, in particular at the bottom portion.

    IMG_2168.JPG

    Removal of the rear is pretty simple, use a jack to press up the low arm to reduce binding when removing the bolt holding the damper to the lower arm.

    IMG_2161.JPG

    Remove the front upper arm pinch joint before removal of front damper. As you need to apply upward pressue to release the tension on the bolt.

    IMG_2173.JPG

    Dissambling of stock damper/spring is the most challenge part of this installation. I used two sets of compression tools, one as safety, one does the actual work.

    IMG_2180.JPG

    That is almost 50% compression, lots of potential energy stored in that spring.

    IMG_2183.JPG

    This is how the front MPP should look. The helper spring is at the bottom. The seperation ring between the main spring and helper spring is packaged with the rear component, this caused some confusion.

    IMG_2184.JPG

    For the rear, I found it was easier to install the spring first then install the adjuster on top of the spring.

    IMG_2162.JPG IMG_2153.JPG

    The front installed.

    IMG_2190.JPG IMG_2191.JPG

    I made these 3d printer cube for setting the preload on the spring. MPP recommended 28mm front, 15mm rear. Looking at multiple MPP photos of their car, it was way too low for me. My settings are 38mm front and 30mm rear. The cube allow for quick measurement/setting of height in 5mm increments.
     
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  2. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    Here are the cubes in action.
    IMG_2197.JPG IMG_2195.JPG IMG_2198.JPG
     
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  3. FlyNavy01

    FlyNavy01 Member

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    Looks good. Do you have photos/ride height measurements of the car at these settings?

    Also, out of curiosity, did you happen to get the weight of these versus stock? Thanks for the write-up!
     
  4. SiNiSon

    SiNiSon Member

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    Thanks for the write up I am still a few orders down the list and can't wait.. would you have a side image of the car with the suspension would love to see the heights... and lastly :) any chance you would share your cubes models.. seems like such a convenient tool and solution!
     
  5. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    Here is the cube mode. Spring Offset Cube by ten13th

    It has been overcast since the MPP installation, will post some photos when weather is better.
     
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  6. cab

    cab Active Member

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    Beast - nice write up. Did you have to disassemble the factory struts because you re-use the factory upper strut mount/ bearing assembly?
     
  7. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Member

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    I have these and yes you do, for both front and rear.
     
  8. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    Yep, need to reuse the stock upper mount for both the front and rear. A note, the front upper rubber bushing between the mount and the spring is not reused, MPP kit comes with a replacement rubber piece.
     
  9. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    1BAD511C-8896-4716-B5A7-8A356D7CD830.jpeg

    Quick photo at some random street where my kid is playing soccer. I’ve 255/40/19 PS4S tires, they are 12mm taller compare to stock tires. This translate to 6mm higher ground clearance and 6mm shorter tire/wheel well gap, even with stock suspension.
     
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  10. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    Spring will settle a bit within a few thousand miles. I will adjust the spring preload after a few month to achieve my target of 15mm gap between top of the tire to the wheel well.
     
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  11. SiNiSon

    SiNiSon Member

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    Looks great!
     
  12. jyalpert

    jyalpert Member

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    Is it possible to buy an extra set of top hats? Would be worth an extra $100-200 to not have to use a spring compressor.
     
  13. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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  14. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    Unfortunately, you need to purchase the entire damper assembly. I have tried. I have even considered buying a used set from eBay, but it is just unavoidable to do a disassembly to recover the top hats.
     
  15. MasterC17

    MasterC17 Active Member

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    FWIW you can rent spring compressors from Auto Zone/Advance Auto and as long as you return them within 60 days it's free.
     
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  16. Triplett

    Triplett Banned

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  17. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    CABA14F5-D076-4143-B32C-4BA2FC4F8BCD.jpeg 1E2B9A68-0E7B-4E87-B5FB-6418F8FC6ACA.jpeg

    Better post installation photos.
     
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  18. wokuku

    wokuku Member

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    Looks great. I just bought same size tires and waiting for the wheels to come in.

    Can you tell me what’s the clearance in the upper control arm area? My concern is that the tires I bought is a hair bigger than yours so it might or might not clear the front upper control arm
     
  19. stickman

    stickman Member

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    If you were 11th on the list and just got yours I should get mine sometime in 2020 :(
     
  20. beastmode13

    beastmode13 Supporting Member

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    #20 beastmode13, May 29, 2019
    Last edited: May 29, 2019
    Depends on the brake you have, with P3 red calipers you will need 3mm spacer to get clearance. With the silver caliper, you will be fine. Without the 3mm spacer, it will rub, see photos attached. Red caliper brakes have rotor hat what is only 2.5mm thick, while the siliver caliper brakes have rotor hat that is ~7mm thick, this effectively changes the offset of the wheel.

    IMG_1121.JPG IMG_1123.JPG
     
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