dfwatt, that nipple doesn't sit flush on the bottom of that cavity,. Inside the fork you'll see a tiny lip where it slides over the damper and meets a lip on the damper. Sorta like the L shape blocks from Tetris. If you look carefully through where the fork clamping bolts are, you can see where the lips meet. At least that's how it is for mine.
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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation
- Thread starter beastmode13
- Start date
My installer told me the front ride height is 365mm (+5mm than rear) to reach the 110mm ground clearance. And that already used the full adjustable range.
So first the 354mm (-5mm than rear) suggestion from MPP official guide probably be wrong? I checked a lot of lowered model 3 pictures, all the front fender gap seems bigger than rear. (However my factory original rear fender gap was bigger than front, so much confusion). Second the adjustable range for front seems influenced by this fork issue?
So first the 354mm (-5mm than rear) suggestion from MPP official guide probably be wrong? I checked a lot of lowered model 3 pictures, all the front fender gap seems bigger than rear. (However my factory original rear fender gap was bigger than front, so much confusion). Second the adjustable range for front seems influenced by this fork issue?
dfwatt, that nipple doesn't sit flush on the bottom of that cavity,. Inside the fork you'll see a tiny lip where it slides over the damper and meets a lip on the damper. Sorta like the L shape blocks from Tetris. If you look carefully through where the fork clamping bolts are, you can see where the lips meet. At least that's how it is for mine.
Thanks . . we sorta got that already! This was fixed weeks ago . . . .
CrewKize
Member
Got it done. Took me awhile, haven’t wrenched on anything for good 10 years but was able to do it by myself (with a few emails to Jesse) which got me thru it. At MPP settings and car is just like everyone says only better now because I get to say it and drive it! Will post up more images when get the new wheels on.
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Nice! What did you do to those Wheels? They look like they've got some kind of alternative paint or perhaps some iridescent clear coat or something? Not sure but they look great!
CrewKize
Member
Took off black center caps installed the silver caps from my old model s wheels. Almost feel bad that I’m taking the wheels off next week. It’s wife’s car and she wanted black wheels, so we will see. Have about 140 miles on the coilovers so far feel like a kid again. told the wife I’m Still “testing” will give it back soon... did little doctored of the photo with the filters.
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dfwatt, that nipple doesn't sit flush on the bottom of that cavity,. Inside the fork you'll see a tiny lip where it slides over the damper and meets a lip on the damper. Sorta like the L shape blocks from Tetris. If you look carefully through where the fork clamping bolts are, you can see where the lips meet. At least that's how it is for mine.
That dowel is not load-bearing at all, it just locates the fork on the damper. Otherwise, it could be installed 90* out and you would never be able to install the front suspension. There is some variation since the dowels are TIG welded by hand, so we needed to make sure the damper wouldn't stop sliding into the fork if the weld was bigger than usual. The damper is actually locked in by a small step on the bottom of the body, which matches a step inside the fork.
My pleasure, I have had shops ask me more questions than you working in your driveway (usually shops don't bother looking at instructions).
CrewKize
Member
[QUOTE="MountainPass, post: 3922251, member: 72831" (usually shops don't bother looking at instructions).[/QUOTE]
That reason alone was why wanted to do it myself
Regardless of how sore i knew I was gonna be from rolling around on concrete.
That reason alone was why wanted to do it myself
Regardless of how sore i knew I was gonna be from rolling around on concrete.
That reason alone was why wanted to do it myself
Regardless of how sore i knew I was gonna be from rolling around on concrete.[/QUOTE]
Yes the guy that installed mine made numerous small mistakes because he didn't want to read the instructions. Fortunately they were all fixed. It seems like mechanics hate to ask any question because somehow they think it makes them look stupid.
Just like the Tesla from the factory, why would the aftermarket world be any different?
Sorry, you tee it up so well. I can't help myself.
I'm laughing because the steering wheel was off centre on the delivery day of my car.Just like the Tesla from the factory, why would the aftermarket world be any different?
Sorry, you tee it up so well. I can't help myself.
Same here. Has SC looked at it and “adjusted” twice, it is still off center. Finally got an alignment done by 3rd party. There was -0.20 toe out on the front right wheel. That explains why my steering wheel has to be slightly off center to the left to go straight.
CrewKize
Member
I can't tell that there was any change after 500 miles of quote-unquote settling. Looks like your rear needs to come up maybe 8 mm. Or your front dropped slightly. But overall it looks great. And I love what you've done with the stock wheels. They look way cooler!
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Looks great! I love those stock wheels as well. There isn't really much settling that happens, so after 300 miles you are definitely good to set the ride height how you like it.
@MountainPass - I posted this on the other thread (on the comfort coilovers) where I suspect you guys might have missed it, but it really belongs here. Much of it relates only to the Sport kit (which of course is fabulous!)
Couple of questions –
1) I know the conventional notion is that compression firmness impacts handling more, while rebound firmness more the suppleness of the ride, but is that how you would describe and understand it? It seems like a little bit of an artificial distinction between ride and handling, and if this popular notion were so, why wouldn't people simply really back off on rebound and keep compression really high?
2) Where do you guys run your set up on the street in terms of ride height and shock settings? Do you tough it out, or go with the 12/10 baseline?
3) How do you set the shocks for particular tracks? Trial and error? Speed of corner/degree of compression? Just wondering what the heuristics are in a general sort of way?
4) I'm curious why you guys have as the default setting (12/10?) slightly different compression and rebound numbers (12 clicks off full hard for compression and 10 clicks off Full hard for rebound)? My understanding that the general design/functional parameter is that slow to medium movements are dampened more aggressively as you go towards full hard but superfast compressions/actuations are not? Is that correct?
Thanks again for all your support. We love your stuff – keep it coming! Speaking of which, when do you think your front camber/caster arms are going to be available?
best, Doug
I've asked the same question on track setup and they've directed me to The Future – Tesla Model 3
The bottom of the page you can see the damper setting for high speed or low speed track. It also depends on what kind of tire you're on, the more track focus the tire, the stiffer you want the damper to be.
The bottom of the page you can see the damper setting for high speed or low speed track. It also depends on what kind of tire you're on, the more track focus the tire, the stiffer you want the damper to be.
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