Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Took off black center caps installed the silver caps from my old model s wheels. Almost feel bad that I’m taking the wheels off next week. It’s wife’s car and she wanted black wheels, so we will see. Have about 140 miles on the coilovers so far feel like a kid again. told the wife I’m Still “testing” will give it back soon... did little doctored of the photo with the filters.

In this pic as well. Is this because you don't have rear camber arms?
 
For some reason it wouldn't attach the pics when I quoted you. Here's the pic for anyone looking
 

Attachments

  • crewkize.png
    crewkize.png
    1.9 MB · Views: 301
  • MPP Sport.png
    MPP Sport.png
    2 MB · Views: 290
  • Screen Shot 2019-10-23 at 4.20.35 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-10-23 at 4.20.35 PM.png
    2.4 MB · Views: 267
  • Screen Shot 2019-10-23 at 4.20.45 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2019-10-23 at 4.20.45 PM.png
    2.6 MB · Views: 264
The coil overs are adjustable. Can raise it. I could raise but after spending good 6 hours rolling on the ground putting these guys on myself I haven’t felt like messing with it Or I like it enough to not want to raise it I’m not really sure. It’s just a blast to drive.
 
I'm conflicted on If I should get comfort or sport coilovers. I don't plan on taking my car to the track. I'd like to have my car lower mainly for cosmetics while having an improve drive on comfort, handling and taking corners on spirited drives.

@MasterC17 says the handling is better with the comfort coilovers. How much more better is the handling then OEM's handling and cornering? While Masterc17 says he can't say the ride quality is better then stock/oem, @Perry says his Sport Coilover feels like riding on clouds. I thought the sport coilover was to be firmer and the ride would be harsher?

I'm confused!

Also another question, did any of you guys get rear camber arms?

The reason people may be reporting different experiences is because we may each have the compression and rebound set differently. The sport MPP coilovers have a huge amount of adjustment so you can set them up drastically different. To me the ride is noticeably more comfortable than stock on my sports with the recommended startup compression/rebound of 12/10. If you want comfort leave them at that setting, which would give you a softer than stock ride with better road hugging characteristics.

As far as rear camber arms. I ended up not needing them. The camber ended up just about right with slightly more negative camber than stock after lowering the car a little. I lowered it about 10mm little less than MPP recommends in their spec sheet to prevent bottoming out over speed bumps.
 
Keep in mind, ride quality is subjective and difficult to compare apples to apples.

I wouldn't worry about the added camber. It's not going to wear out your tires quicker or reduce your range. Just make sure you get an alignment to correct the toe (which will wear out tires and reduce range if not right).

The sports, while more expensive, do give you more options for adjustment and will let you set them from soft to hard, or in-between, depending on your personal preferences. I am guessing the Comfort Coilover is stiffer than the Sport set to full soft.
 
Last edited:
There's another guy who posted this pic in another forum about his MPP Sport Coilovers and his wheels looks tucked in. Is there a way to remedy that?
That's my car, and it's tucked in because I want it that way for going fast on the track. With 1.5 inch of lowering you should only very minimal negative chamber (around -1.2 is my guess) You can also find wheels with less offset so the wheels will stick out more. Here is a handy offset calculator

https://www.willtheyfit.com/
 
Got my coilovers installed on the scales. Here are the corner weights if anyone is interested:

View attachment 485103

That was with the frunk plastics missing and the mobile charge cable in the trunk plus a 220lb driver.


WOW! You have PERFECT cross weight balance! Would you mind measuring your central hub to fender distance (or something similar) for the four tires? You would be doing the community a great service!

I just installed my coilovers as well and was considering getting it corner balanced. Since I don't track, it didn't seem worth it.
 
Ok I designed a replacement knob so that you can drill a small hole and then leave your trunk plastics in place. Here is the CAD file:

KW Coilover Knob (For Long Reach Applications) by Davidss

20191207_143651.jpg 20191207_143316.jpg

WOW! You have PERFECT cross weight balance! Would you mind measuring your central hub to fender distance (or something similar) for the four tires? You would be doing the community a great service!
Ok I made a ride height gauge and got it measured:
Ride Height Gauge 90-130mm For Tesla by Davidss

Front Left: 110mm (perch height 58mm)
Front Right: 108mm (perch height 74mm)
Rear Left: 109mm
Rear Right: 114mm

This is with the factory 20" performance wheels/tires.
 
Last edited:
  • Love
Reactions: sajakh
Ok I designed a replacement knob so that you can drill a small hole and then leave your trunk plastics in place. Here is the CAD file:

KW Coilover Knob (For Long Reach Applications) by Davidss

View attachment 485877 View attachment 485878


Ok I made a ride height gauge and got it measured:
Ride Height Gauge 90-130mm For Tesla by Davidss

Front Left: 110mm (perch height 58mm)
Front Right: 108mm (perch height 74mm)
Rear Left: 109mm
Rear Right: 114mm

This is with the factory 20" performance wheels/tires.


This is great! Short of corner balancing every install, this is a very good starting point. Thank you so much!
 
Other than rotating the tires on my 1999 4Runner and changing air filters, I have zero experience working on cars. Would you recommend a person with no experience working on car suspensions to install these themselves or would you encourage them to get it professionally installed.

Do all 4 wheels have to be on jack stands to install these or can I jack up one wheel at a time, place a jack stand there, work on it, then move onto the next wheel? I only have a single scissor jack at this time and would need to get jack stands. Apologies if these are basic questions but I want to check with those experienced in this area.
 
Other than rotating the tires on my 1999 4Runner and changing air filters, I have zero experience working on cars. Would you recommend a person with no experience working on car suspensions to install these themselves or would you encourage them to get it professionally installed.

Do all 4 wheels have to be on jack stands to install these or can I jack up one wheel at a time, place a jack stand there, work on it, then move onto the next wheel? I only have a single scissor jack at this time and would need to get jack stands. Apologies if these are basic questions but I want to check with those experienced in this area.

Would not suggest somebody with minimal mechanical experience tackling a suspension disassemble. That's probably even more dangerous than doing your own brake job with no experience. That's a simpler process, and probably something any moderately talented person could do if they're careful with some instruction and YouTube video stuff. But taking apart suspensions is a little bit more difficult and a lot more dangerous if your underneath the car obviously. I've done my share of wrenching but decided actually to let somebody else do the install because I don't have a proper lift. And that's the other issue without a whole lot of expensive equipment and a way to safely stabilize the car on jacks, a suspension coilover job is just plain dangerous. And lifting the car safely requires four special hockey puck contraptions that sit in the battery frame rails. If you don't use those and the car slides off onto the battery pack itself your battery pack is probably toasted.
 
Would not suggest somebody with minimal mechanical experience tackling a suspension disassemble. That's probably even more dangerous than doing your own brake job with no experience. That's a simpler process, and probably something any moderately talented person could do if they're careful with some instruction and YouTube video stuff. But taking apart suspensions is a little bit more difficult and a lot more dangerous if your underneath the car obviously. I've done my share of wrenching but decided actually to let somebody else do the install because I don't have a proper lift. And that's the other issue without a whole lot of expensive equipment and a way to safely stabilize the car on jacks, a suspension coilover job is just plain dangerous. And lifting the car safely requires four special hockey puck contraptions that sit in the battery frame rails. If you don't use those and the car slides off onto the battery pack itself your battery pack is probably toasted.

Thanks for the honest assessment dfwatt. I was already wary of doing the task myself but this seals it. I’m going to get them professionally installed. Didn’t even think of the dangers of the Model 3 sliding off. oof you may have saved me an arm and a leg. Literally.
 
Thanks for the honest assessment dfwatt. I was already wary of doing the task myself but this seals it. I’m going to get them professionally installed. Didn’t even think of the dangers of the Model 3 sliding off. oof you may have saved me an arm and a leg. Literally.

Both UPP and MPP have decent installation instructions to let you install yourself. However, the amount of tool you'll need to buy will probably exceed a pro installation cost.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: onshi
Thanks for the honest assessment dfwatt. I was already wary of doing the task myself but this seals it. I’m going to get them professionally installed. Didn’t even think of the dangers of the Model 3 sliding off. oof you may have saved me an arm and a leg. Literally.
FWIW, I installed the comfort coilover myself over the weekend, and prior to this, I've only rotated tires.
For anyone attempting to do it yourself, I'd suggest reading up both UPP and MPP instructions, as well as watching both of these videos:

Each one of those sources has some vital information that are missing in the other places. (e.g. UPP is the only one that describes how to do this without a thin-wall socket, and only one of the video mentions the direction your damper should be facing.) I already have a good torque wrench, jack and jack stands, so I just had to buy a 200pc tool set to do the job. (edit: and spring compressor)