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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

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Have been using this as my daily set up the last few days. Feels sooo much more stable but still so smooth and not jarring at all. I wonder if this would be ok to keep it at this setting as a daily driver. Where I live, the roads are fairly smooth. Would this put more stress on the tires and suspension components causing more wear?
There is no reason not to, as long as you like it you are good!
 
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If you want to start to feel some more of the road and get that lightning-fast response, you need to be at 8 or firmer on the rebound and compression. Generally speaking, the harshness comes from compression more than rebound for most of the common road obstructions (other than potholes) - so running something like 9C/7R will make a noticeable difference without taking much away from the ride quality.

While you'll certainly feel one click, if you're looking to party in the mountains you're going to want more!
Is the “compression = rebound + 2” setting mainly for street comfort? Also for AWD, is it better to set the front and rear the same values, instead of a stiffer rear for RWD cars?
Generally, how do you feel about 8C/7R setting for AWD cars?
 
Btw, KW definitely has different valvings from MPP. Not even close. All of those 12/10 talks...

Default for KW is F: 5C/8R R: 3C/9R on the same springs. And I have to say this setup is quite balanced at default, but it's weird choice. They have 12 clicks for compression and default is #3 for rear. I did #2 and that's like too big change already. There is just too big jumps if you want to go stiffer - I cant put my head on a headrest on a highway since its keep bouncing and hitting my head.

Anyway, one more reason to go for MPP valving - default is almost at the limit of softness and there are enough steps to find where is your preference.

Anyway, most who buy adjustable coilovers have no clue how to set them. Series of edicational blog posts about that would be real help. If there were remote controls - it's easy to do a/b comparison. When you need to lift a car to do a click, most keeping it default. Or taking a weekend trip on a track setup like idiots (me), because lazy.

Does this mean MPPs valving is stiffer from hard to soft shifting the curve more to the right vs the KWs? This is assuming the progressive springs variable spring rates are the same? I agree with more educational blog posts about tuning these coilovers especially as these platforms are so neutral and well designed. These cars are just begging for further tunability for those who want to ;)
 
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Ultimately there are a number of really difficult things when it comes to making a how-to video on damper tuning, here are some specific reasons why:

  • There is a big range based on driver preference. Some people like a firm ride, and other people think they like a soft ride but actually prefer much firmer to other people. There is no way to define what "soft" or "firm" is! We see all of these posts about how great suspension is, but there are no direct back to back comparisons on cars with the same wheels, same tire pressure, and same roads. So it's really meaningless discussion. The closest you can do is reference the OEM car, but even that can vary wildly as Tesla is constantly revising spring rates and damper valving without telling anyone!
  • The roads you're on make a huge difference. If someone is driving on broken roads in a downtown city their needs will be totally different from someone who drives only on smooth roads.
  • With too much detail, we give away too much IP and a lot of what we feel makes our suspension really work.
Ultimately the best thing to do is get out there and drive your car and get really good at adjusting the dampers. It should only take less than 2 minutes to do all of the adjusters. If you cannot reach the rear rebound adjuster simply drive the car up on some ramps or wood to get enough droop travel to get in there. If you put ramps on a front left and rear right, the rear left will become very accessible!

Once you're good at adjusting the dampers quickly, go to full stiff and drive for a little bit, and then go to full soft and drive for a little bit. This will give you an idea of your total range. I will say that on our dampers, the further you go from full stiff the less significant each "click" becomes. 1-2 is a much larger difference than 11-12. This applies to both compression and rebound.

As far as how to tune compression versus rebound, they each have very specific tuning uses and I personally could never be happy with a single adjustable coilover. Here's why:

Rebound tuning:
  • For comfort, this is used to control how much the body "comes up" after a big bump. Soft rebound = floaty, unstable, vehicle feels "light" after a big bump. Overly stiff rebound = vehicle falls into every pothole, judders over bumps, and feels extremely harsh
  • For the track, rebound is used for platform control and is a major factor in chassis setup. Too much rebound = skittering over the surface and a loss of mechanical grip. Too little rebound results in a lazy feeling platform but is generally not slower as long as stability is there (we're talking about sedans here, not formula cars).
Compression tuning:
  • For comfort, compression makes a big difference as you can imagine for impacts in the road. Too much compression results in harshness over cracks in the road and bumps (rather than potholes or ruts, which play more into rebound)
  • For the track, rear compression affects power down balance, and overall compression affects how the car feels over large bumps in the road.
It's hard to say much more than this! I can say that most do not understand damper tuning and many race engineers that I've worked with who think they have a strong understanding of damper tuning actually have it totally backward. It's a little bit un-intuitive.

The good news is that while our dampers have a wide range of adjustment for a street sport suspension kit, there isn't so much adjustment there that you can get yourself into trouble if you set them entirely wrong as the adjustments are primarily low and mid-speed. It's when you have 3 and 4-way adjustable dampers when you can get in trouble if the high speed is dangerously mismatched from the springs.

So please experiment, practice adjusting the dampers quickly and see what you like. Move the adjusters together initially to get an idea of overall firmness, and then adjust them individually when you want to see how that affects the feeling on a specific type of road, and the type of feel you like. Of course, those of you with MPP suspension can email us for more advanced advice at any time!
 
Hello, I'm glad I found this tread as I just ordered the MPP Model 3 Sports Coilovers AWD/Performance. I've had my Model3 since January but because of my short commute and then working from home because of COVID I haven't gotten much driving in it. I do not plan to tracking the Model 3 but I do enjoy carving through the Northern California hills. I've had coil-overs in my two other cars both BMW; E36 M3 and E92 335i which has KW Variant 2. Going with MPP was and easy choice since I have really liked the way the KW V2 performed for me these past 10 years. I'm hoping to get the same stance on my Model 3 as I did on my 335i. I don't really have setup questions as of yet because I have not read through the entire tread yet. On my past two coil-over I did not install them myself, but there are plenty of BMW and German Performance shops near by. I live in Fremont (yes home of Tesla motors) and am looking for a shop with experience with MPP coilovers, otherwise my BMW Performance shop said they have experience installing 3 UP coilovers. Please if there are any shop recommendations LMK.

I'd like to have my wheel and tires sorted out before the MPP coilovers are installed but am having some tough choices with going staggered or not. My past two cars have been staggered but from what I understand it's a bit different with an AWD electric car. With an ICE car no one talks about milage vs tire size and how range is effected. It comes down to aesthetics vs practicality vs performance. Aesthetics is very importance for me with the Model 3 since living in Fremont the Model 3 is a very common car and from experience a good stance can set a car apart. On my 335i the lowered stance along with the 19x8.5 F and 19x10 R I thought looked good and am looking to do something similar to the Model 3. I have never scrapped or bottomed out with my 335i KW V2 setup but I understand it's different with the Tesla. For reference of stance I've attached pics of my 335i. Please LMK if you think there is any risk or issue I should consider before going this route?
 
Somehow couldn't add picture for above post but.....I am looking to do something similar to the Model 3. I have never scrapped or bottomed out with my 335i KW V2 setup but I understand it's different with the Tesla. For reference of stance I've attached pics of my 335i. Please LMK if you think there is any risk or issue I should consider before going this route?
 

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I just posted this on the "MPP Comfort Coilover reviews" thread but I thought it might be good to post it here too.

I've had the Adjustable Comforts and Camber Kit in my MPP shopping cart for months. But I never pulled the trigger on them. So my wife decided to surprise me and ordered them for our 11th (steel) anniversary present last weekend. She called MPP and they gave her the two promotions that their currently offering without my wife even asking about it. Thank you, MPP for taking care of us! Now the wait begins...
 
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If you want to start to feel some more of the road and get that lightning-fast response, you need to be at 8 or firmer on the rebound and compression. Generally speaking, the harshness comes from compression more than rebound for most of the common road obstructions (other than potholes) - so running something like 9C/7R will make a noticeable difference without taking much away from the ride quality.

While you'll certainly feel one click, if you're looking to party in the mountains you're going to want more!

Appreciate the feedback, will give 9/7 a try!
 
After a couple hundred miles I just measured my ride height again since the front looks higher than the rear again. When I initially set it up to MPP's recommended height measurements the fronts were about 1/4in higher that the rears. I lowered the fronts to match. Now the fronts are exactly the same height that they were 2 weeks ago (27 1/4in from ground to fender) and the rears are lower than they were by 1/4in. They are now 27 inches ground to fender. I'm going to give it a little more time before I start messing with the height again.

Where did you net out? My front and rear are ~ the same height (ground to fender). Thinking I need to adjust height so the rear isn't lower than the front. It's probably only a few mm higher on the front. Overall, feels a bit less than a one finger game on the rear and about a finger gap on the front.
 
Where did you net out? My front and rear are ~ the same height (ground to fender). Thinking I need to adjust height so the rear isn't lower than the front. It's probably only a few mm higher on the front. Overall, feels a bit less than a one finger game on the rear and about a finger gap on the front.

I'm about the same, though I haven't measured lately. I think I'm going to toss the car on the lift sometime soon and raise the rear slightly.
 
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[Repost]

Anyone have any insight on how long coilovers take to settle? I'm running a set of recently installed (1 week) MPP coils and the front is maybe 1/4 inch (6mm) higher than the rear (roughly).

During the install the shop thought the front was too low out of the box so adjusted them. The difference isn't much but it has consumed me :)

The recommenced MPP settings are actually opposite (slightly higher rear than front by roughly the same delta ~ 5mm). Not sure why that is.

Was looking for a one finger gap on the fronts and rear so wondering if they will settle over time or if I need to go back to the shop to have the height adjusted.

Thanks all.

Side note: The MPP coils are simply an amazing experience. Set the rebound and compression to 10/8.
 
[Repost]

Anyone have any insight on how long coilovers take to settle? I'm running a set of recently installed (1 week) MPP coils and the front is maybe 1/4 inch (6mm) higher than the rear (roughly).

During the install the shop thought the front was too low out of the box so adjusted them. The difference isn't much but it has consumed me :)

The recommenced MPP settings are actually opposite (slightly higher rear than front by roughly the same delta ~ 5mm). Not sure why that is.

Was looking for a one finger gap on the fronts and rear so wondering if they will settle over time or if I need to go back to the shop to have the height adjusted.

Thanks all.

Side note: The MPP coils are simply an amazing experience. Set the rebound and compression to 10/8.
Most of it will settle within first 30 minutes at most.
 
Hello, I'm glad I found this tread as I just ordered the MPP Model 3 Sports Coilovers AWD/Performance. I've had my Model3 since January but because of my short commute and then working from home because of COVID I haven't gotten much driving in it. I do not plan to tracking the Model 3 but I do enjoy carving through the Northern California hills. I've had coil-overs in my two other cars both BMW; E36 M3 and E92 335i which has KW Variant 2. Going with MPP was and easy choice since I have really liked the way the KW V2 performed for me these past 10 years. I'm hoping to get the same stance on my Model 3 as I did on my 335i. I don't really have setup questions as of yet because I have not read through the entire tread yet. On my past two coil-over I did not install them myself, but there are plenty of BMW and German Performance shops near by. I live in Fremont (yes home of Tesla motors) and am looking for a shop with experience with MPP coilovers, otherwise my BMW Performance shop said they have experience installing 3 UP coilovers. Please if there are any shop recommendations LMK.

I'd like to have my wheel and tires sorted out before the MPP coilovers are installed but am having some tough choices with going staggered or not. My past two cars have been staggered but from what I understand it's a bit different with an AWD electric car. With an ICE car no one talks about milage vs tire size and how range is effected. It comes down to aesthetics vs practicality vs performance. Aesthetics is very importance for me with the Model 3 since living in Fremont the Model 3 is a very common car and from experience a good stance can set a car apart. On my 335i the lowered stance along with the 19x8.5 F and 19x10 R I thought looked good and am looking to do something similar to the Model 3. I have never scrapped or bottomed out with my 335i KW V2 setup but I understand it's different with the Tesla. For reference of stance I've attached pics of my 335i. Please LMK if you think there is any risk or issue I should consider before going this route?

I feel your pain about the dilemma of choosing between the better aesthetics of staggered versus the recommended square set up in an all-wheel-drive car. My solution was to compromise and go minimally staggered – 265/30 in front and 275/30 in rear on 9.5 x 20 VS 14 fronts and 10.5 x 20 rears. Somewhat surprisingly, there is no terminal understeer at all and in fact if anything the car maybe wants to oversteer a little bit at the limit – this may be a function of my alignment but in any case, it's neutral to oversteering slightly, and with wicked turn in. I've got MPP Sports Coilovers set at 10/8 compression and rebound both front and rear. It's pretty firm but it's not harsh. But I haven't been brave enough to try you guys are talking about in terms of anything below 10/8 (like even 9/7!). The suspension is already firm to the point of being a bit rough over our crappy New England roads. My wife's car which has the MPP Adjustable Comfort Coilovers, set to the default of 12/10, is much more compliant, and rides beautifully. But it does have some terminal understeer due to the smaller 235/35 stock Michelin pilot sport 4S in front, and the same 275/30 Tesla-specific tire in the rear.

I also just got the Mountain Pass front bushing installed earlier today, and it makes the steering a bit more linear in terms of effort and feedback. I have to believe that this is because the stock bushing was allowing some collapse/deflection change of caster and/or camber as cornering loads increased. Now the steering effort loads up a bit more as your tire is doing more work and in that sense it's more linear and communicative. Some people might even find the steering a touch heavy (it's set on the normal default in between comfort and sport), and although initially, when the car was completely stock, that was pretty light effort but now after adding the 265/30 fronts and the MPP front bushing assembly, the steering effort is about as high as I would want it to be. This front bushing kit is really something:

FLCA-Spherical-Bushing-With-Press-Tools.jpg


Overall – couldn't be more pleased with the cars handling and performance on the street. It doesn't have enough negative camber for track work and these tires (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S– Tesla specific only in the rear as they do not make a Tesla specific 265/30 – 20) wouldn't last for more than about two hot laps before being chewed up.

In any case the car has the benefits of a staggered aesthetic without the downside of terminal oversteer.
20200721_182323.jpg
 
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Thank you for your feedback on the FLCAB! They are likely my favorite bang-for-the-buck mod other than the Master Cylinder Braces.
It definitely makes the steering more communicative. And there's no additional grain or harshness or any kind of micro vibration that I can tell. Turn in is really amazing. Each upgrade has made a difference but collectively the overall impact on turn in has been really something. The coilover set has helped, the wider front tires helped, and now the front lower control arm bushing. You have to see it (experience it from the driver's seat) to believe it. A colleague of mine just got a brand new long-range dual motor. I'm trying to persuade him to go the mountain pass tuning route. I'm going to give him a test drive and get his feedback and post here.
 
Hi All,

Here's my set up. Received and installed the AWD Adjustable Comfort Coilovers mid-September and they are set to 12/10 per old MPP specs. They now seem to recommend 12/12 so I will try that when I get a chance. Comfort is the key word here. My commute to work (yes, I still go in everyday) is smooth over city streets with potholes and bumps. All bumps are much more predictable and I do not feel the bounce that I use to. I coincidentally upgraded my wheels and tires about a week prior to coilover install so there is somewhat of a lack of apples to apples comparison since I added larger, lighter, wider, and sportier tires (19"x9/5" +35 Titan 7 TS5 with 265/35 Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+) just recently before the coilovers so do not have a ton of mileage to discuss experience.

As far as handling around highway turns, there is definitely more stability although I will say I think I am still finding my comfort and feel zone that I like. I also bought the rear camber and toe arms and they are set to the following below. BTW, the rears are so easy now to dial in with these and the shop that I use is a tuning shop so we played with several alignment options. Issue is the fronts without any easy way to adjust so I am looking for some options there.

Front Camber: Left -1.0 Right -.7
Front Toe: Left: -.06 Right -.09
Total Front Toe: -.14
Rear Camber: Left -1.8 Right: -1.8
Rear Toe Left: -.06 Right -.09
Total Rear Toe: -.15

Overall, the car is WAY more fun to drive and now looking at some braking upgrades!

FYI, I had the guys at the shop drill some small holes above the front dampers for easier adjustment. Highly recommended!
 

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Hi All,

Here's my set up. Received and installed the AWD Adjustable Comfort Coilovers mid-September and they are set to 12/10 per old MPP specs. They now seem to recommend 12/12 so I will try that when I get a chance. Comfort is the key word here. My commute to work (yes, I still go in everyday) is smooth over city streets with potholes and bumps. All bumps are much more predictable and I do not feel the bounce that I use to. I coincidentally upgraded my wheels and tires about a week prior to coilover install so there is somewhat of a lack of apples to apples comparison since I added larger, lighter, wider, and sportier tires (19"x9/5" +35 Titan 7 TS5 with 265/35 Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+) just recently before the coilovers so do not have a ton of mileage to discuss experience.

As far as handling around highway turns, there is definitely more stability although I will say I think I am still finding my comfort and feel zone that I like. I also bought the rear camber and toe arms and they are set to the following below. BTW, the rears are so easy now to dial in with these and the shop that I use is a tuning shop so we played with several alignment options. Issue is the fronts without any easy way to adjust so I am looking for some options there.

Front Camber: Left -1.0 Right -.7
Front Toe: Left: -.06 Right -.09
Total Front Toe: -.14
Rear Camber: Left -1.8 Right: -1.8
Rear Toe Left: -.06 Right -.09
Total Rear Toe: -.15

Overall, the car is WAY more fun to drive and now looking at some braking upgrades!

FYI, I had the guys at the shop drill some small holes above the front dampers for easier adjustment. Highly recommended!

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this for everyone! Do you have any photos of your car now that it is lowered?