MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

[pawlik]

I have 2 weird noises, which, I believe, associated with KW suspension (sorry, not MPP, I didn't know I can avoid reexporting to EU for MPP, but it's the same product with a small difference).

First one - at time 00:04.
Loud ping at right turn followed by a bunch of more subtle ones (could be a bearing, but I'm not sure yet).

The second one - at time 9:05.
Something banging at the left side on any bump. I retorqued already all major suspects - no results.

So if anyone here had something similar with MPP/KW - please, let me know. Thanks.

Hi Mash!

Have you managed to fix the second noise in your suspension? I am not sure what it was because your videos don't work anymore. I installed the KW v3 coilovers few days ago and have this nocking sound on bumps. The car is new, around 2K miles.

Here is the video

. After a few plays you can recognize the sound better.

Have you guys got any suggestions what it can be?

 

[beastmode13]

@pawlik Check the top nuts on the damper, torque to 12ft/lb ~ 16Nm. There are two thin nuts stacked together, tighten the first one to 16Nm then add the second one and tighten to 16Nm. I use a bit of blue Loctite to prevent future loosening.

 

[dfwatt]

Hi Mash!

Have you managed to fix the second noise in your suspension? I am not sure what it was because your videos don't work anymore. I installed the KW v3 coilovers few days ago and have this nocking sound on bumps. The car is new, around 2K miles.

Here is the video

. After a few plays you can recognize the sound better.

Have you guys got any suggestions what it can be?

I couldn't tell if the sound was coming more from the front or from the rear. If it's from the rear, Check to make sure that they actually put the rear isolation Donuts back on the lower portion of the spring assembly. Some folks leave those isolation rubbers out and I think that's a mistake.

 

[pawlik]

@pawlik Check the top nuts on the damper, torque to 12ft/lb ~ 16Nm. There are two thin nuts stacked together, tighten the first one to 16Nm then add the second one and tighten to 16Nm. I use a bit of blue Loctite to prevent future loosening.

@beastmode13 Thanks for the suggestion. I will check it. Not sure if the guys who installed the suspension checked these nuts.

@dfwatt The sound comes from the front, at least everybody can hear it from the front. We checked springs at the rear and front. The rear ones have these plastic isolators, front ones do not. We also lowered the front to the max to make the springs a bit looser, it did not change anything.
Oh, and it's not the swaybar for sure. We removed it completely with links. No change at all.

There is this plastic isolator on the rear springs.

The front ones are naked.

 

[Mash]

After many times of reinstalling suspension I don't have this noise anymore. I have a different ones now, but those are clearly endlinks. Unfortunately I don't know what exactly fixed an issue.

 

[dfwatt]

I couldn't tell if the sound was coming more from the front or from the rear. If it's from the rear, Check to make sure that they actually put the rear isolation Donuts back on the lower portion of the spring assembly. Some folks leave those isolation rubbers out and I think that's a mistake.

If it's coming from the front and you replaced the sway bars then it's most likely the end links

 

[dfwatt]

If it's coming from the front and you replaced the sway bars then it's most likely the end links

Scratch that I just reread your post and you said you removed the front sway bar and the end links. Then I think you're left with the removal of the front suspension isolator. I'm not sure why people take that out. I could really tell the difference between front isolator removed and replaced back in.

 

[pawlik]

After many times of reinstalling suspension I don't have this noise anymore. I have a different ones now, but those are clearly endlinks. Unfortunately I don't know what exactly fixed an issue.

Thank you guys. On Friday I am reinstalling one side. I will check the top nuts before - this sounds promising I will let you know.

 

[Pied]

Thank you guys. On Friday I am reinstalling one side. I will check the top nuts before - this sounds promising I will let you know.

I think it could be the top nut on the strut. You can tighten it without removing the suspension. I helped installed KW on my friends car and he had clunking because the front strut nut wasn't tight enough. I used MPP instructions because I figured it was the same.

The KW springs are longer than MPP version, so I believe you actually need more torque on the top nut vs MPP. KW I had to put my full weight on the front spring and barely got the strut nut on vs MPP springs being loose at lowest setting.

 

[whatsupsor]

Just wanted to say thanks for the CAD file. Finally drilled my Frunk and had a buddy with a 3D printer make me one. Not planning on leaving it in but rather just making a longer tool to change each side. The clicks are so light I like having the reference point. Now I just need to find a long enough hex key to sacrifice

View attachment 662092

Dang how are you guys getting such clean perfect cuts on that? Is it really obvious and easy to find the perfect place to make the hole so that it lines up with properly? Are you guys also leaving the dust cover off the rubber piece that sits atop the top hat?

Thanks everyone your cars look awesome!

 

[pawlik]

I think it could be the top nut on the strut. You can tighten it without removing the suspension. I helped installed KW on my friends car and he had clunking because the front strut nut wasn't tight enough. I used MPP instructions because I figured it was the same.

The KW springs are longer than MPP version, so I believe you actually need more torque on the top nut vs MPP. KW I had to put my full weight on the front spring and barely got the strut nut on vs MPP springs being loose at lowest setting.

I contacted the KW through the seller. They said they know the clunk problem and that it was springs. I am now waiting for the Teflon covers they sent to me. They are supposed to fix the problem. I'll let you know after installation.

 

[skrtskrt]

So I just installed the MPP Sports and 10R/12C is too soft and comfortable for me and has a bit of a body roll which I'm trying to eliminate.

I think my eibach springs were a bit more stiffer/aggressive and I prefer it that way, it was comfy but also sharp in steering and cornering. Any recommendations on what I should adjust the dampers too? So the recommended settings on the coilover is pretty good with steering and handling, I just want to dial it in a bit more and make it a bit stiffer then the eibachs while being able to daily drive it and still have some comfort.

I'm running 235/35/20 20x9 Square. I like driving hard and fast around corners, curves, twisty roads. I do this about 2-3x a week. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[MountainPass]

So I just installed the MPP Sports and 10R/12C is too soft and comfortable for me and has a bit of a body roll which I'm trying to eliminate.

I think my eibach springs were a bit more stiffer/aggressive and I prefer it that way, it was comfy but also sharp in steering and cornering. Any recommendations on what I should adjust the dampers too? So the recommended settings on the coilover is pretty good with steering and handling, I just want to dial it in a bit more and make it a bit stiffer then the eibachs while being able to daily drive it and still have some comfort.

I'm running 235/35/20 20x9 Square. I like driving hard and fast around corners, curves, twisty roads. I do this about 2-3x a week. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

I like to adjust them in increments of 2 clicks, so in your case, I would try 10C/8R and see what you think. I had my own car set to 8C/6R for the last month and the handling was amazing, but a bit bumpy for me to drink my morning coffee!

 

[dfwatt]

I like to adjust them in increments of 2 clicks, so in your case, I would try 10C/8R and see what you think. I had my own car set to 8C/6R for the last month and the handling was amazing, but a bit bumpy for me to drink my morning coffee!

Yes 10/8 compression rebound was the sweet spot for me. About as firm as I could be comfortable with in terms of Street driving

 

[skrtskrt]

So I can basically change everything without a jack on the floor besides the front compression, any advice?

 

[MountainPass]

So I can basically change everything without a jack on the floor besides the front compression, any advice?

The front compression can be reached by turning the steering wheel all the way in one direction. The front rebound is a little tougher, you'll either need to remove the frunk to access the top of the dampers or drill a small hole in the frunk plastic above each one and use a long hex key.

 

[skrtskrt]

The front compression can be reached by turning the steering wheel all the way in one direction. The front rebound is a little tougher, you'll either need to remove the frunk to access the top of the dampers or drill a small hole in the frunk plastic above each one and use a long hex key.

I actually find the front rebound to be the easier then the lower compression as I can't even see the numbers or +/- while on the floor. I turned the steering wheel all the way one direction and it's still very hard to figure it out or even locate the settings because its not at eye distance like the rear settings

 

[Pied]

I actually find the front rebound to be the easier then the lower compression as I can't even see the numbers or +/- while on the floor. I turned the steering wheel all the way one direction and it's still very hard to figure it out or even locate the settings because its not at eye distance like the rear settings

You just have to feel around for it. It's clockwise to stiffen suspension and counter clockwise to soften. The direction is when you're looking directly at the dial. So the bottom lower dials you imagine laying down on the ground and looking up at the dial to adjust. The top dials, you look down. Hope that makes sense.

I adjusted my suspension today and I had to jack the rear slightly to get my hand in, didn't need to lift wheels off the ground. The front I didn't take the frunk out, just the top 2 trim pieces and pulled the corners up a bit to access.

 

[SK360]

Yeah don’t rely on sight… those front compression clicks are very noticeable, just turn them to full stiff ( clockwise if you’re looking at them from the bottom ) and count clicks backwards

 

[skrtskrt]

You just have to feel around for it. It's clockwise to stiffen suspension and counter clockwise to soften. The direction is when you're looking directly at the dial. So the bottom lower dials you imagine laying down on the ground and looking up at the dial to adjust. The top dials, you look down. Hope that makes sense.

I adjusted my suspension today and I had to jack the rear slightly to get my hand in, didn't need to lift wheels off the ground. The front I didn't take the frunk out, just the top 2 trim pieces and pulled the corners up a bit to access.

That's exactly what I do with the front. Just take the 2 pieces out!

As for the front lower compressions, which way are you imagining laying down?