You do this with no jacks and only on the floor? Tbh im having trouble locating the conpression setting even with the wheels turned all the way to one side. I tried to use some wood planks and a floor jack and I still couldnt find it
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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation
- Thread starter beastmode13
- Start date
SK360
Member
I change it when I swap my AutoX wheels on and off but I have adjusted it with the wheels on. You have to go from the rear of the wheel, turn it all the way to one side, feel where the shock is attached to the control arm, feel up and you’ll find the front axle and then the compression is above the axle.
You’ll never get to it from the front as it’s where the red line is.
Thanks so much for the help guys! I managed to finally be able to adjust the front compressions just on the floor alone.
For anyone else who is curious or might want to do this in the future I'll just sum up with:
1. Turn your wheel all the way to one side
2. You will be reaching your arms behind the turned wheel
2. Record a video on your phone with the flash on to get a reference point and then you just touch around and match up what you see in the video. I felt a certain part and then I knew the adjusters were close by.
if you have a lift then you can just ignore this post
For anyone else who is curious or might want to do this in the future I'll just sum up with:
1. Turn your wheel all the way to one side
2. You will be reaching your arms behind the turned wheel
2. Record a video on your phone with the flash on to get a reference point and then you just touch around and match up what you see in the video. I felt a certain part and then I knew the adjusters were close by.
if you have a lift then you can just ignore this post
Since the compression dial is on the bottom of the strut and installed on the car, the correct orientation to adjust clockwise/counter clockwise is imagining that you're looking straight up at the dial.
So compression (lower dials) are adjusted as if you're under the car looking straight up at the strut. Rebound (top dials) are adjusted as if you're looking top down on the strut. With that in mind, you don't need to visually see the +/- to make adjustments.
I notice I get more body roll with 10/8 compression rebound all around compared to 12/8 fronts, 10/8 rears. Anyone else notice that or have similar experience? Would love to know why as I'm still new to suspension/compression/rebound stuff
You might be going the wrong direction? Here's a video from MPP that will help.
Agreed, it should be noticeably firmer with only a few clicks. If it got softer, you likely went the wrong way!
Question on bottoming out:
I was previous on Eibach springs with no issues on bottoming/scraping. It was perfect. Recently switched to MPP Sport coilovers and lowered the car about another inch (ground to fender about 26.5", with Eibachs it was 27 1/4") and I started bottoming (prolly twice now granted I had 4 people in the car each time lol so I dialed in the compression and rebound and it was better) and my Vorsteiner front lip broke on the highway when there was a slight uneven road dip lol and I've scratched the black rubber part by my side skirts . Could it be that the car is too low or could I avoid that by adjusting the dampers? Ideally what ratio should I have the rebound/compression to avoid bottoming out?
I had to raise it back to about 26 3/4"-7/8th but the cornering IS not the same, curious to hear about others experiencing or If I'm the one. I push the car a lot and notice the difference around 50-70+ mph at a corner, granted this time I don't have my front lip so maybe that could make a difference? But the thing is when I was on Eibachs I had the same front lip and it was higher but the handling and cornering was still good so I'm wondering if that front lips downforce could play that huge of a difference?
To those who track the car or driving hard, do you guys notice it corners differently when you slightly rise or lower it? My car went from 26.5" to 26 3/4-7/8" and I can't believe how different it is. The guy who raised it adjusted the height by turning the adjuster twice on all four corners.. How crucial is alignment if I turned it back 1 turn? I really want to lower it again to 26.5" cause the cornering on it was absolutely fantastic but not that practical as I usually have up to 3-4 people total in my car on the weekends.
Edit. If I were to lower it back to 26.5" and install my front lip again the ground clearance from bottom of the front lip (centre) to the floor would be about 4". I checked around with other cars especially the BMW M3/M4 guys that are lowered and have a lip and theirs are around 3"-3.5", Porsche GT3RS is 4", Mclaren 720s is around 4.2". But I don't hear much of them bottoming out, yes they do scrape here and there on the front though which is normal but at highspeeds on the highway their lips didn't break like mine so It must be suspension that I could dial in to not make the front dip as much? I know a lot of the guys that go to gold rush rally and other rallies have their cars really low too and they don't have much issues.
My side profile clearance is also about 4".
When it bottomed out while I was lowered I was 12/8 C/R front, 10/8 rear, then I changed it to the MPP less grip track setting and notice it was better. But now that my ride is higher, the less grip track setting doesn't feel as good. So now everything is 12/10 C/R front, 10/8 C/R rear and the cornering has more body roll. If I make the dampers tighter (lower number) the drive feels very disconnected.
I was previous on Eibach springs with no issues on bottoming/scraping. It was perfect. Recently switched to MPP Sport coilovers and lowered the car about another inch (ground to fender about 26.5", with Eibachs it was 27 1/4") and I started bottoming (prolly twice now granted I had 4 people in the car each time lol so I dialed in the compression and rebound and it was better) and my Vorsteiner front lip broke on the highway when there was a slight uneven road dip lol and I've scratched the black rubber part by my side skirts . Could it be that the car is too low or could I avoid that by adjusting the dampers? Ideally what ratio should I have the rebound/compression to avoid bottoming out?
I had to raise it back to about 26 3/4"-7/8th but the cornering IS not the same, curious to hear about others experiencing or If I'm the one. I push the car a lot and notice the difference around 50-70+ mph at a corner, granted this time I don't have my front lip so maybe that could make a difference? But the thing is when I was on Eibachs I had the same front lip and it was higher but the handling and cornering was still good so I'm wondering if that front lips downforce could play that huge of a difference?
To those who track the car or driving hard, do you guys notice it corners differently when you slightly rise or lower it? My car went from 26.5" to 26 3/4-7/8" and I can't believe how different it is. The guy who raised it adjusted the height by turning the adjuster twice on all four corners.. How crucial is alignment if I turned it back 1 turn? I really want to lower it again to 26.5" cause the cornering on it was absolutely fantastic but not that practical as I usually have up to 3-4 people total in my car on the weekends.
Edit. If I were to lower it back to 26.5" and install my front lip again the ground clearance from bottom of the front lip (centre) to the floor would be about 4". I checked around with other cars especially the BMW M3/M4 guys that are lowered and have a lip and theirs are around 3"-3.5", Porsche GT3RS is 4", Mclaren 720s is around 4.2". But I don't hear much of them bottoming out, yes they do scrape here and there on the front though which is normal but at highspeeds on the highway their lips didn't break like mine so It must be suspension that I could dial in to not make the front dip as much? I know a lot of the guys that go to gold rush rally and other rallies have their cars really low too and they don't have much issues.
My side profile clearance is also about 4".
When it bottomed out while I was lowered I was 12/8 C/R front, 10/8 rear, then I changed it to the MPP less grip track setting and notice it was better. But now that my ride is higher, the less grip track setting doesn't feel as good. So now everything is 12/10 C/R front, 10/8 C/R rear and the cornering has more body roll. If I make the dampers tighter (lower number) the drive feels very disconnected.
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That’s a long ass post. Just play with your settings until you find something you like. The 3’s design is a bit unusual in that the car sits low from factory but has a huge wheel gap. If you’re lower than Eibachs you will inevitably scrape, likely the black plastic side guards often, then front. Like you said, stiffening up your suspension up will help but it’s all about finding that balance in the 3. You really can’t lower it like other cars and expect it to not scrape.
If you're not tracking the car I'm not sure what the percentage or payoff is around getting it lower and lower. Other than maybe you're going for a quasi slammed look. It's worth emphasizing that Tesla built the car so that the battery pack would already be pretty low to the ground even in a car with a stock suspension so you don't have ~4-5 in to play with there. In terms of expecting a car with four adults in it not to bottom out on bumpy roads or speed bumps when you've already lowered substantially again I am not sure that that's realistic. When I put four adults in my car which is probably not quite as low as yours I take it real easy. You can always dial up compression which will be the more critical shock parameter in terms of preventing bottoming out, but you will pay for that around town in relationship to the same roads you're concerned about bottoming out on if you go much past a setting of 8 or 10 on the compression side. The other cars that you mention with four inches of ground clearance are not sedans and are not carrying four adults.
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No bottoming out since I've raised my car although I'm at 5/5 c/r front and 3/3 c/r rear. Installed the front lip and boy does it make a difference around corners lol
I had it at 2/3 in the rears and the handling was amazing up until 50 MPH where I started to feel the understeer so I changed it back to 3/3 but it's not really the same, any idea what settings I should play around with because 2/3 was amazing but I also want to push harder in the corner but the understeer is not inspiring
I had it at 2/3 in the rears and the handling was amazing up until 50 MPH where I started to feel the understeer so I changed it back to 3/3 but it's not really the same, any idea what settings I should play around with because 2/3 was amazing but I also want to push harder in the corner but the understeer is not inspiring
My current ride height is:
26 ¾ front left
26 ½ rear left
26 ⅞ front right
26 ⅝ rear right
is this within spec or somewhat normal? How does this effect the drive vs if I was even on all corners? Do you guys actually try to have it all even or if you're 1/8th off its not a big deal? I'm just wondering if its worth adjusting and getting another alignment done on it.
26 ¾ front left
26 ½ rear left
26 ⅞ front right
26 ⅝ rear right
is this within spec or somewhat normal? How does this effect the drive vs if I was even on all corners? Do you guys actually try to have it all even or if you're 1/8th off its not a big deal? I'm just wondering if its worth adjusting and getting another alignment done on it.
You should’ve gotten it corner balanced after settling on a ride height. I doubt you’ll feel a difference on the street, but it definitely makes a difference for an experienced track driver.
In a perfect world, yes. But otherwise you would corner balance with endlinks disconnected and then hope you can hook them back up without any swaybar preload. Then you'll know if you need adjustable links or not.
Endlinks barely make any difference unless they heavy loaded and that shouldn't be the case. It's only about changing ride height so that a car can stand equally on 4 wheels instead of 3.In a perfect world, yes. But otherwise you would corner balance with endlinks disconnected and then hope you can hook them back up without any swaybar preload. Then you'll know if you need adjustable links or not.
Just as with 4 legged table - one leg is always shorter a bit and table might not be standing straight if you didn't level it.
MasterC17
Active Member
For a corner balance, yeah that's actually pretty good.
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