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MPP Comfort Coilover reviews?

TLLMRRJ

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
2,176
2,629
Houston
I've also got mine installed last week at The Driveway in San Jose. I've decided to have the comfort Coliovers, along with Master brake Cylinder Brace, and front lower control arm bushings done. And yes, those harsh bumps are pretty much gone. A lot of times, I'm going over a bump and expecting that harsh feel, but instead, it was very mild and indeed, comfortable, yet sporty.
I used to feel the floatiness on moderate/highway speed long curve/corners and now it feels more planted, stable. Mine is lowered to MPP's recommendation, which is about 1-1.5 inches lower, so I've been very careful going over speed bumps and drivesways. So far, only hit the speedbump at work, which is one of those higher ones, so I've learned to go around it, or just half of the car over it, and it's been fine.

The recommended compression/rebound setting is slightly more towards comfort, so I'm thinking of adjusting to slightly firmer to see. So from 12C/10R to 10C/8R. Which would firm up a bit more and hopefully be more responsive.

Jesse from MPP has been extremely helpful, so shoutout to him.

2019 Model 3 LR AWD. View attachment 647704 View attachment 647705 View attachment 647706

It became obvious to me that when you lower the 3 slightly with MPP on OEM 19" rims, the wheels look too tucked in, and it looks weird.

So I bought a set of 15mm/20mm spacers from Motorsport-Tech for my 19" rims. Now it looks like the fenders are sculpted around the wheels instead of looking like they are tucked under a woman's skirt.

2021-03-21 19.43.40.jpg
2021-03-21 19.44.02.jpg
 

MountainPass

Active Member
Global Vendor
Mar 2, 2018
1,954
4,119
Toronto, Canada
It became obvious to me that when you lower the 3 slightly with MPP on OEM 19" rims, the wheels look too tucked in, and it looks weird.

So I bought a set of 15mm/20mm spacers from Motorsport-Tech for my 19" rims. Now it looks like the fenders are sculpted around the wheels instead of looking like they are tucked under a woman's skirt.

View attachment 647825 View attachment 647826
Your car looks great, but I have to ask. Is that a Murcielago and Esprit back there?!
 
It became obvious to me that when you lower the 3 slightly with MPP on OEM 19" rims, the wheels look too tucked in, and it looks weird.

So I bought a set of 15mm/20mm spacers from Motorsport-Tech for my 19" rims. Now it looks like the fenders are sculpted around the wheels instead of looking like they are tucked under a woman's skirt.

View attachment 647825 View attachment 647826
Nice Cars! and thanks for the suggestion on spacers. I don't know much about spacers, but any downsides to you adding that? is it purely for the look?
 
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TLLMRRJ

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
2,176
2,629
Houston
Nice Cars! and thanks for the suggestion on spacers. I don't know much about spacers, but any downsides to you adding that? is it purely for the look?

It's just for improving the looks, and it makes a shocking amount of improvement to the looks.

There's no measurable downside as long as you use a quality made spacer. The cheapo ones on eBay that ship from China are suspect because they use low quality hardware. A model owner had some of the bolts break on those cheap ones, so buy a set from a US manufacturer. Also you must to follow the directions to retorque the spacers after 500 miles.

I got mine from Motorsport-Tech for $285 shipped. A lot less than buying new wheels to get more offset.
 
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It's just for improving the looks, and it makes a shocking amount of improvement to the looks.

There's no measurable downside as long as you use a quality made spacer. The cheapo ones on eBay that ship from China are suspect because they use low quality hardware. A model owner had some of the bolts break on those cheap ones, so buy a set from a US manufacturer. Also you must to follow the directions to retorque the spacers after 500 miles.

I got mine from Motorsport-Tech for $285 shipped. A lot less than buying new wheels to get more offset.
Great, thanks for the tip.
 
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MountainPass

Active Member
Global Vendor
Mar 2, 2018
1,954
4,119
Toronto, Canada
Wow, really happy to see that and to save custom+tax🙏.
It also explain the reasonable shipping cost on your site 😇.
Will order soon 🤗!
You've got it! I feel bad for my UK customers who don't get to benefit from this anymore. I need to make sure to specify that there is no VAT in the EU rather than in Europe.
 
It became obvious to me that when you lower the 3 slightly with MPP on OEM 19" rims, the wheels look too tucked in, and it looks weird.

So I bought a set of 15mm/20mm spacers from Motorsport-Tech for my 19" rims. Now it looks like the fenders are sculpted around the wheels instead of looking like they are tucked under a woman's skirt.

View attachment 647825 View attachment 647826
Liking the lug/center cap setup. Could you tell us what you're running? Thanks.
 

TLLMRRJ

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
2,176
2,629
Houston
Liking the lug/center cap setup. Could you tell us what you're running? Thanks.

I bought these:

But I can't remember which center caps I ended up using because I bought a few to try. Some fit the Tesla T sticker better than others. Here are 3 versions I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MD1C369/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Before.jpg

After.jpg

After After.jpg

So I finally lowered my Tesla 3 AWD and as I expected, I wish I had done it sooner!

I installed the Mountain Pass Performance Comfort Adjustable Coilovers and so far they are awesome. The car looks WAY better, handles way better and the ride is whatever I want to make it. Because they are adjustable I can raise or lower the car and make it ride softer, the same, or more firm than original. I also bought their rear adjustable camber arms just in case I needed the extra adjustment. MPP says that you can get away without needing them, but I expected to at least try to lower it too far :)

I first installed the kit using the suggested height, compression and rebound adjustments and it turned out to be a perfect middle ground. The car was lowered an inch or so, felt much more responsive, handled better and felt slightly more firm in terms of comfort - hitting bumps, expansion joints, cracks, etc.

Of course, just a few days later, I decided to lower it some more and it feels even better in terms of handling. Ride comfort seems to be about the same. The lower ride is more of a risk in terms of scraping the front end, the underside or even bottoming it out, though.

The measurements I'm about to cite are all from the ground to the 4 different jacking points on the car, which are pretty much the lowest points on the car aside from mudflaps or underside plastic fairings.

Non-performance Tesla 3's start at about 140mm from the ground at these points with the 18" aero wheels. The initial suggested setup height from MPP will drop this to about 110mm, which was pretty accurate. But after a couple of days I decided to drop it another 20mm which put it close to 90mm off of the ground. Looks even better, IMO.

Before and after dropping it an additional 20mm I visited one of the biggest speed bumps I knew of as well as the steepest parking lot entrance. Both clear fine as long as I take it slow. Going too quick will cause the suspension to bounce and the bottom frame will contact the speed bump or the front end will scrape on the entranceway. Also, you may not be able to get the car onto some of the larger lifts at auto repair shops without using something to drive the rear tires of the car onto after the front has already made it up. It’s not a huge deal, but if your mechanic/shop are not friendly, they’ll immediately send you elsewhere… (I have a whole Firestone rant I will probably post soon.)

I chose the fully adjustable MPP coilovers because they are fully stainless steel which I think is more necessary here in Chicagoland. They sell a version that is only height adjustable and non-stainless for much less.

Installation is not that hard - I know it's all relative, but if you've ever done a complete brake job - pads and rotors, I would say you could tackle this project and install these yourself and save a bunch of money (~$500).

The only special tools you will need are the spring compressors, but these can be "borrowed" from auto parts stores like Autozone and Advance Auto. By "borrow", I mean you give them a $50 deposit that you will get back if you return them within 90 days, which is pretty sweet.

And then you may need some type of through-hole wrench or maybe open end to remove the top of the shock.

I created a pretty big DIY video (
) with more details on the install, if you’re interested. It’s broken down as follows:

0:00 - Intro, w/unboxing, then some discussion - why I chose this version of MPP coilover, rear camber arms and why you may need them.

9:30 - Camber & Toe talk

12:20 - Frunk removal

13:50 - Raise car

15:07 - Remove front Tesla coilovers

23:27 - Disassemble Tesla coilovers

29:21 - Assemble MPP front coilovers, set ride height

36:40 - Install MPP front coilovers

42:58 - Reinstall frunk

43:57 - Remove rear shocks & springs

46:35 - Disassemble rear Tesla shocks

47:18 - Assemble MPP springs & set ride height

47:55 - Install MPP rear springs

48:34 - Assemble MPP rear shocks

49:30 - Install rear shocks

50:38 - Remove Tesla rear camber arm

51:05 - Install MPP rear camber arm

51:59 - Reinstall rear spring cover

52:05 - Alignment needed – NOT by Firestone

54:13 - Before/After Pics

54:25 - Full Review Coming Soon

55:27 - Update your look inside and out

If you’re new at this, you may want to start with the rear install first – it is easier and will get you warmed up. Even after doing this once it would probably take me a full day as I like to be careful and double-check everything. Basically, I’m slow :) I wouldn’t say anything was really difficult at all, just time consuming.

After I get the alignment done and play with the settings some more, I will complete and post a full drive review.

Also, a small bonus is that the kit is lighter than the stock components. This is most likely due to the smaller diameter of the springs. All of the coilovers combined weigh about 7.2 lbs less than stock according to my scale. I forgot to weigh the MPP camber arms before installing them, but I would estimate conservatively that the pair are a total of 3 lbs lighter. So ~10 lbs total saved.
 
Congratulations. Car looks great. I ended up with 10/8 as about as firm as I can stand on the street.
Hi there,

Just wonder how’s the 10/8 handling and ride quality compared with 12/10?

I have just installed a Comfort adjustable on my LR and the initial setting is 12/10. I’m consider to go for 10/8 thus will be great if you can share your experience.

thanks.
 
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dfwatt

Best Car Ever
Sep 24, 2018
3,740
5,895
FL
Hi there,

Just wonder how’s the 10/8 handling and ride quality compared with 12/10?

I have just installed a Comfort adjustable on my LR and the initial setting is 12/10. I’m consider to go for 10/8 thus will be great if you can share your experience.

thanks.
Set at the default 12/10 the ride is still pretty supple but the handling is significantly better and there's way less float due to the lack of rebound control of the stock shocks. At 10 / 8, things tighten up quite a bit but now because of the extra compression firmness you really feel bumps significantly more so it depends on whether you like the super tight handling or the more supple ride. I tried 8/6 for a while but it was just too firm. Handling was amazing and on smooth roads the car was still very comfortable but on some secondary roads that were not in good shape it was just a little bit unpleasant. Of course you can go softer on the shocks so you can get the shocks to the point where the ride is quite comfortable or where you've got significantly augmented grip and transient response. And these settings are actually on the sport coilovers so the valving on the Comfort coilovers is a little softer in general. My wife's car has the Comforts and we've just kept them at the default 12/10. The ride has a kind of liquid quality to it at that setting. My wife is no fan of my super stiff car so she does not want me cranking the shocks up in her Model 3.
 
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Set at the default 12/10 the ride is still pretty supple but the handling is significantly better and there's way less float due to the lack of rebound control of the stock shocks. At 10 / 8, things tighten up quite a bit but now because of the extra compression firmness you really feel bumps significantly more so it depends on whether you like the super tight handling or the more supple ride. I tried 8/6 for a while but it was just too firm. Handling was amazing and on smooth roads the car was still very comfortable but on some secondary roads that were not in good shape it was just a little bit unpleasant. Of course you can go softer on the shocks so you can get the shocks to the point where the ride is quite comfortable or where you've got significantly augmented grip and transient response. And these settings are actually on the sport coilovers so the valving on the Comfort coilovers is a little softer in general. My wife's car has the Comforts and we've just kept them at the default 12/10. The ride has a kind of liquid quality to it at that setting. My wife is no fan of my super stiff car so she does not want me cranking the shocks up in her Model 3.
Thanks mate for the info. It helps! Thanks again.
 

MountainPass

Active Member
Global Vendor
Mar 2, 2018
1,954
4,119
Toronto, Canada
Thanks mate for the info. It helps! Thanks again.
Agreed with @dfwatt

12/10 is a great street setting and will be perfect for nearly everyone. Firming them up even a few clicks makes a noticeable difference in handling, but may give you a little more feedback from the road than you'd like. It is fun to tune them to your liking!
 
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