Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

MPP Comfort Coilover reviews?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I'm sorry for the beginner question but I'm trying to make sure I understand the difference between the adjustable and non-adjustable comfort coilovers. The way I understand it is that both these coilovers can be height adjusted (there's a default or starting recommendation for height adjustment) and the part that is non-adjustable is the compression and rebound part of it because it's preset.

Am I understanding this correctly or can anyone clarify this further for me?
 
I'm sorry for the beginner question but I'm trying to make sure I understand the difference between the adjustable and non-adjustable comfort coilovers. The way I understand it is that both these coilovers can be height adjusted (there's a default or starting recommendation for height adjustment) and the part that is non-adjustable is the compression and rebound part of it because it's preset.

Am I understanding this correctly or can anyone clarify this further for me?
Correct.
 
I'm sorry for the beginner question but I'm trying to make sure I understand the difference between the adjustable and non-adjustable comfort coilovers. The way I understand it is that both these coilovers can be height adjusted (there's a default or starting recommendation for height adjustment) and the part that is non-adjustable is the compression and rebound part of it because it's preset.

Am I understanding this correctly or can anyone clarify this further for me?


That's right! All of our coilover kits are height-adjustable, but only the higher-end kits have compression and rebound damping adjustment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NXN-P3D
Set at the default 12/10 the ride is still pretty supple but the handling is significantly better and there's way less float due to the lack of rebound control of the stock shocks. At 10 / 8, things tighten up quite a bit but now because of the extra compression firmness you really feel bumps significantly more so it depends on whether you like the super tight handling or the more supple ride. I tried 8/6 for a while but it was just too firm. Handling was amazing and on smooth roads the car was still very comfortable but on some secondary roads that were not in good shape it was just a little bit unpleasant. Of course you can go softer on the shocks so you can get the shocks to the point where the ride is quite comfortable or where you've got significantly augmented grip and transient response. And these settings are actually on the sport coilovers so the valving on the Comfort coilovers is a little softer in general. My wife's car has the Comforts and we've just kept them at the default 12/10. The ride has a kind of liquid quality to it at that setting. My wife is no fan of my super stiff car so she does not want me cranking the shocks up in her Model 3.
I am in the same boat too. Mine is currently at 12/10, but I've scheduled to have it adjusted to 10/8 to see if I like it. I drove it on the highway tonight (smooth roads) and it felt really good around corners at high speeds. Planted, but there is that liquid quality that you described. So part of me wants that supple slightly more comfortable feel, but at the same time, I want just a bit more firmness and response. Currently going over bumps is already a nice feel, and maybe just the right firmness, I wonder if 10/8 might start to feel a bit too firm for me. The car being lowered already has even better handling and comfort than before, so I question myself if I should just stick with 12/10 or firm it up to 10/8. I guess I'll find out in a few weeks.
 
How do we get notified of this June sale?

Probably by signing up for their newsletter on the website

@Pied is right, you can sign up for newsletters on our site (it isn't spammy, just the occasional product release or fun dyno test) and we will also make a post on our social media pages to let everyone know. We have learned from past sales that it can take some time for people to find out, so we will give advanced notice and make sure there is time for everyone to get onboard!
 
@Pied is right, you can sign up for newsletters on our site (it isn't spammy, just the occasional product release or fun dyno test) and we will also make a post on our social media pages to let everyone know. We have learned from past sales that it can take some time for people to find out, so we will give advanced notice and make sure there is time for everyone to get onboard!
Awesome thanks!
 
I made a followup to my detailed install video of the Mountain Pass Comfort Adjustable Coilover kit. (
)

I think lowering your car is the single best upgrade for your car that vastly improves looks as well as performance. Some may say wheels first to make a car look better, but I say don’t bother until you’ve lowered it.

To condense my review, using the MPP height and compression/rebound settings will give you a ride height that is ~1.5” lower and a ride that, to me, seems more firm than stock, but WAY more responsive and with less body roll. Turn the compression and rebound down all the way and it will overall be more comfortable than stock with some less body roll. Turn compression and rebound up all the way and you will feel every movement and imperfection in the pavement with very little body roll.

Under all conditions, the MPP suspension will feel much better overall. At full comfort it may feel very slightly more firm/sporty than stock with very small bumps, but it will feel so much better with larger bumps and when the car/suspension is more loaded. The initial turn-in and responsiveness is so much better - I couldn't believe how noticeable it was and I was barely moving the wheel at low speeds. Then the cornering ability is also drastically improved. And finally, the car looks SO much better.

My goal was to tell you as much as I could about this kit and I organized it into chapters to make it easier to jump ahead.
Sections:
  • I do a first-time drive on normal roads and take some corners and try to describe what I’m feeling.
  • And because I’m never satisfied, I decided to lower it even more, so I showed in detail how to change the ride height and how to adjust the compression and rebound while on the car. The results of this are awesome, the car looks even better! And I also describe any ride differences.
  • I then slalomed the car through some cones I set up at different compression and rebound settings. The one thing I noticed immediately was that the car was much easier to control on full firm and I think this comes through on video and audio. The video shows how much further I was going around the cones on full comfort and can be heard with the additional tire squeal. On full firm the car was way more composed and was even easier to drive through the cones. While I’m a novice driver, I think this actually makes a better test to show how much easier it is for a complete amateur to control their car when it has a better suspension on it.
  • I really wish I had done this test on the stock car, before I lowered it to show how much worse it would have been. The stock suspension has so much body roll due to the progressive springs and then the dampers can’t respond quick enough and you end up hitting the bump stops, which makes things even worse.
  • I tried it over some big speed bumps and steep entry ways where it did well, but there is an issue getting up on the ramps at some auto repair shops – not good, but you can get around this if you go to a performance shop or bring some 2x4’s…
  • The kit, along with the rear camber arms, save about 10lbs total.
  • Lowering your Tesla increases range! Youtube video from nextmove in Germany (
    ). They showed a 7% increase in efficiency at 93 mph! Not sure what that would mean at lower speeds, but it’s still going to be better.
  • What I think would make the kit even better – remote damper adjustment. I have an older EDFC on my Tein coilovers on my 2004 Acura TL and it is really cool. The latest versions include active adjustments based on speed, acceleration and cornering. This would be seriously cool! The only downside is that the compression and rebound are adjusted together, not independent. To me this would be worth it.
  • Why I chose MPP – their coilovers are based on KW, which has a fantastic reputation, but MPP added their own custom tweaks that improve KW even further. MPP has great customer service; online reviews are simply better than others with way less complaints. MPP has really dedicated themselves to improving Teslas and it shows in the products that they makes – that’s right, they make a bunch of their own products.
  • Don’t just buy springs, I’ve done it TWICE before on other cars and regretted it both times and ended up buying coilover kits. Especially with Tesla, the stock dampers aren’t up to the task – at the stock height they would hit the bump stops so if you use lowering springs, they will definitely be hitting the bump stops. You will also not be able to adjust the height, which I think is really important.
Comparison vs Stock suspension - What I think makes ride comparisons difficult is the fact that the stock springs are variable rate so can feel more comfortable/soft when driving slowly and hitting very small bumps, but then become much more uncomfortable as the car hits larger bumps or when the suspension is compressed for other reasons (many people in the car, cornering, etc). The reason for this is that the stock springs will depend on the bumps stops, which increase the effective spring rate very rapidly.

If you’re thinking of installing the suspension yourself, please see my detailed DIY install video. (
)
 
I made a followup to my detailed install video of the Mountain Pass Comfort Adjustable Coilover kit. (
)

I think lowering your car is the single best upgrade for your car that vastly improves looks as well as performance. Some may say wheels first to make a car look better, but I say don’t bother until you’ve lowered it.

To condense my review, using the MPP height and compression/rebound settings will give you a ride height that is ~1.5” lower and a ride that, to me, seems more firm than stock, but WAY more responsive and with less body roll. Turn the compression and rebound down all the way and it will overall be more comfortable than stock with some less body roll. Turn compression and rebound up all the way and you will feel every movement and imperfection in the pavement with very little body roll.

Under all conditions, the MPP suspension will feel much better overall. At full comfort it may feel very slightly more firm/sporty than stock with very small bumps, but it will feel so much better with larger bumps and when the car/suspension is more loaded. The initial turn-in and responsiveness is so much better - I couldn't believe how noticeable it was and I was barely moving the wheel at low speeds. Then the cornering ability is also drastically improved. And finally, the car looks SO much better.

My goal was to tell you as much as I could about this kit and I organized it into chapters to make it easier to jump ahead.
Sections:
  • I do a first-time drive on normal roads and take some corners and try to describe what I’m feeling.
  • And because I’m never satisfied, I decided to lower it even more, so I showed in detail how to change the ride height and how to adjust the compression and rebound while on the car. The results of this are awesome, the car looks even better! And I also describe any ride differences.
  • I then slalomed the car through some cones I set up at different compression and rebound settings. The one thing I noticed immediately was that the car was much easier to control on full firm and I think this comes through on video and audio. The video shows how much further I was going around the cones on full comfort and can be heard with the additional tire squeal. On full firm the car was way more composed and was even easier to drive through the cones. While I’m a novice driver, I think this actually makes a better test to show how much easier it is for a complete amateur to control their car when it has a better suspension on it.
  • I really wish I had done this test on the stock car, before I lowered it to show how much worse it would have been. The stock suspension has so much body roll due to the progressive springs and then the dampers can’t respond quick enough and you end up hitting the bump stops, which makes things even worse.
  • I tried it over some big speed bumps and steep entry ways where it did well, but there is an issue getting up on the ramps at some auto repair shops – not good, but you can get around this if you go to a performance shop or bring some 2x4’s…
  • The kit, along with the rear camber arms, save about 10lbs total.
  • Lowering your Tesla increases range! Youtube video from nextmove in Germany (
    ). They showed a 7% increase in efficiency at 93 mph! Not sure what that would mean at lower speeds, but it’s still going to be better.
  • What I think would make the kit even better – remote damper adjustment. I have an older EDFC on my Tein coilovers on my 2004 Acura TL and it is really cool. The latest versions include active adjustments based on speed, acceleration and cornering. This would be seriously cool! The only downside is that the compression and rebound are adjusted together, not independent. To me this would be worth it.
  • Why I chose MPP – their coilovers are based on KW, which has a fantastic reputation, but MPP added their own custom tweaks that improve KW even further. MPP has great customer service; online reviews are simply better than others with way less complaints. MPP has really dedicated themselves to improving Teslas and it shows in the products that they makes – that’s right, they make a bunch of their own products.
  • Don’t just buy springs, I’ve done it TWICE before on other cars and regretted it both times and ended up buying coilover kits. Especially with Tesla, the stock dampers aren’t up to the task – at the stock height they would hit the bump stops so if you use lowering springs, they will definitely be hitting the bump stops. You will also not be able to adjust the height, which I think is really important.
Comparison vs Stock suspension - What I think makes ride comparisons difficult is the fact that the stock springs are variable rate so can feel more comfortable/soft when driving slowly and hitting very small bumps, but then become much more uncomfortable as the car hits larger bumps or when the suspension is compressed for other reasons (many people in the car, cornering, etc). The reason for this is that the stock springs will depend on the bumps stops, which increase the effective spring rate very rapidly.

If you’re thinking of installing the suspension yourself, please see my detailed DIY install video. (
)
Great and detailed review. The front and rear plastic guards are low from the factory. They will easily breach when lowered, esp >1.5”. A note on adjusting the rears. The preload makes it difficult to adjust the height. Adjusting the collar with some force and leverage is possible if you’re only doing 5mm or so. However if you need to make more drastic adjustments, dropping the suspension like what you did is ideal. Agree on the ride and performance aspect. Ride is not necessarily more comfortable than stock but it is firm and compliant. Still my favorite mod as these coilovers totally transform the car.
 
Hello @MountainPass ,
do you have a recommended installer in Belgium?
Also for any lowering, some documents are mandatory,
one from the installer and the other one from the vendor (GOCA homologation) without those we cannot drove the vehicle on the roads :| .

KW has it for info. Do you 🙏 ?

For lowerings, two documents are required:

The installation certificate is provided during installation by the approved installer.
The validation report is provided during assembly by the installer. Otherwise, a request must be made to the importer of the brand of springs. If the importer cannot provide the document, a specific request must be made to the technical control department of GOCA.
 
To condense my review, using the MPP height and compression/rebound settings will give you a ride height that is ~1.5” lower and a ride that, to me, seems more firm than stock, but WAY more responsive and with less body roll. Turn the compression and rebound down all the way and it will overall be more comfortable than stock with some less body roll. Turn compression and rebound up all the way and you will feel every movement and imperfection in the pavement with very little body roll.



If you’re thinking of installing the suspension yourself, please see my detailed DIY install video. (
)
4 mm at the rear spring perch seems really low... Am I understanding correctly that you wanted to lower the car by 20mm so you went down 20mm at the perch?
 
Just got my @MountainPass comfortable adjustables and solid front lower control arm bushings installed a couple days ago by @AftershockPDX. Went about 1.5 inches down from stock, which feels like a perfect balance between better looks and handling and still practical ride height. Ben at Aftershock dialed it to 12 front and 10 back. Ride feels both firmer than stock around corners and over some bumps, but also more compliant and less jarring than stock in general. Considering going a bit softer front and back but going to give it a few days to evaluate.

The bushings also make a huge difference with the steering. The front end feels much more connected and steering response is more direct now. Great upgrade for not a lot of money.

Also big shoutout to Danny at @MODEL+ for answering my many questions about suspension and wheels over the past couple months and providing fantastic customer service throughout. Now just need to wait another 14ish weeks for my VS Forged VS14 wheels to complete the package!

PXL_20210809_152952317.jpg


PXL_20210809_152938776.jpg
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20210809_153007342.jpg
    PXL_20210809_153007342.jpg
    833.7 KB · Views: 133
4 mm at the rear spring perch seems really low... Am I understanding correctly that you wanted to lower the car by 20mm so you went down 20mm at the perch?
Yes it is low, but hasn't been too low for me. Yet...
20mm at the perch will probably lower the car a little more than 20mm due to the perch location in the suspension/wheel "lever". I did some initial measurements at the battery jacking points, but you really have to let the suspension settle for at least a couple weeks before getting any kind of accurate before/after comparisons.
The numbers don't matter as much as being able to drive without bottoming and if it looks good to you.
 
Just got my @MountainPass comfortable adjustables and solid front lower control arm bushings installed a couple days ago by @AftershockPDX. Went about 1.5 inches down from stock, which feels like a perfect balance between better looks and handling and still practical ride height. Ben at Aftershock dialed it to 12 front and 10 back. Ride feels both firmer than stock around corners and over some bumps, but also more compliant and less jarring than stock in general. Considering going a bit softer front and back but going to give it a few days to evaluate.

The bushings also make a huge difference with the steering. The front end feels much more connected and steering response is more direct now. Great upgrade for not a lot of money.

Also big shoutout to Danny at @MODEL+ for answering my many questions about suspension and wheels over the past couple months and providing fantastic customer service throughout. Now just need to wait another 14ish weeks for my VS Forged VS14 wheels to complete the package!

View attachment 694451

View attachment 694452

Lol nice ride man… I hope to get my red/white P3 tomorrow.

I think you need to get a white child seat to complete the package after the wheels haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mnewbs23