I struggled with this and tested a number of speed bumps and the steepest entryway that I knew of before I decided to keep mine very low. It is probably too low for most but I haven't had any major incidents. Yet... The worst is probably trying to get on the lift ramps at some shops (bring 2x4's). I show a few of these scenarios in my review here -
I would go as low as you can until you get stuck somewhere, then raise it 1/4" by 1/4" until you don't get stuck any longer. Haha!
Are your carbon fiber side mirrors caps that go over the factory housing, or replacements?
The driver's mirror is still wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl and the other side is a mirror cap. I did a video comparing the two and never put the cap on the driver's side
www.jegs.com
I’m assuming this is California. There are a lot of Fremonts out there. If so, I bought all of my parts from autornd in Fremont and they were very helpful. My understanding is that they have done a lot of suspension jobs on the model 3. Rishie was very responsive and got me set up with everything I needed plus helped my installer with alignment specs and good starting points for the ride height.
Good choice. The MPP Comfort adjustables offer the widest range of possible suspension tuning. Even at the default 12/10, handling is significantly tighter and ride is actually better and you can of course go softer. My wife is no fan of firm riding cars and she actually likes the default. And of course you can tighten down on the shocks and get a car that is trackable even though the Springs are pretty soft
I am familiar with this - the front subframe is installed too far to the driver's side. The subframe isn't located on dowels, so it can be installed in a variety of positions! If you were to shift it to the passenger side, it would even out your front camber. This is an issue on the Model S as well.
You can't trust that suspension/alignment people know what they are doing. Many will tell you only the tow is adjustable on these cars, and they are flat out wrong about that. Not saying this guy is incompetent, but there's a 90% chance he is. Did he even try to adjust the camber?
Is this something worth fixing, or the amount of camber not worth the cost/hassle? I'm not that mechanically inclined and not sure what needs to be done to shift the subframe and how much it'll cost.
This would be something you'd get done at the shop. I imagine they would charge about 0.5hr labor to put it on the hoist, remove the undertray, loosen and shift the subframe, then install the undertray again. The biggest redundancy is realigning the car.
Well I was actually watching him the entire time because I had forgot my keycard at home, so he needed me close by to operate the vehicle. I'm not sure what goes into adjusting camber but he did take the frunk liner out and was wrenching on both sides in addition to the rear shroud and wrenching underneath there.
If he had the frunk liner out, it is very likely he used the small amount of camber adjustment available there, but it isn't enough to overcome that difference.
