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MPP Comfort Coilovers - Do I need additional parts?

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I am looking to install the MPP Comfort Coilovers non-adjustable on my M3P. Looking to drop it at the recommended settings from MPP which is about 1.4 inches.

I have two questions:
  • Do I need to buy the additional camber arms for lowering the car by this amount? I would want to get the camber back to factory settings.
  • Do I need wheel spacers?
    • If so, what mm wheel spacer is recommended?
 
I have a parts related question (re: MPP Comfort Coilovers):

I would want to be able to reverse the install with the least amount of hassle (or reduce the effort on the initial install for that matter).

Would it help to buy a set of the OEM top hats (and related bushings/fasteners as needed), and just keep the OEM suspension parts assembled? Does MPP sell those parts (or an aftermarket equivalent)?

I guess the question is really about appreciable reduction in effort, etc.
 
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I have a parts related question (re: MPP Comfort Coilovers):

I would want to be able to reverse the install with the least amount of hassle (or reduce the effort on the initial install for that matter).

Would it help to buy a set of the OEM top hats (and related bushings/fasteners as needed), and just keep the OEM suspension parts assembled? Does MPP sell those parts (or an aftermarket equivalent)?

I guess the question is really about appreciable reduction in effort, etc.
Can't get OEM top hats from Tesla. Not sold separately at the moment.

If you want something that is fully assembled and ready go to. TEIN Flex Z is a very good option.
 
I am looking to install the MPP Comfort Coilovers non-adjustable on my M3P. Looking to drop it at the recommended settings from MPP which is about 1.4 inches.

I have two questions:
  • Do I need to buy the additional camber arms for lowering the car by this amount? I would want to get the camber back to factory settings.
  • Do I need wheel spacers?
    • If so, what mm wheel spacer is recommended?
I would advise getting rear camber arms. All too often we see more negative camber in the rear than the front and personally that makes the car understeer more than I'd like on AWD. In addition to that, I like being able to reduce potential premature wear due to unevenness. I tend to see about a half a degree more negative camber on the driver side than the passenger. Passenger side can be reasonable but the driver rear tends to be closer to -1.8 many times. It's really hit or miss. Very few cars turn out symmetrical or closer to -1.0 where we'd like it to be. This will also allow you to dial in your wheel fitment. What year is your P? I can recommend spacer sizes for you if I can confirm you have OEM rotors, red calipers, and which oem 20" wheel you may have.

Depending on the year of your P3D, I advise you measure yourself, the height can vary from 390-400mm hub to fender. MPP install guide suggests 377mm front and 382mm rear. With that said the drop seems to be less than you indicate. I think a 365 - 370 front and 370 - 375 rear seems to be the happy place in my experience for the non adjustables. So depending on your oem ride height it may fall within your 1.4" drop values.

Please take note that many will advise to wait until the suspension settles for a bit before aligning but I am not a fan of this. We see a lot of toe out in the front when lowering the vehicle and although the car might drive straight it will not make for a happy tire. I always make sure bushings are preloaded when tightening down and then drive a few miles before aligning. If the vehicle does settle it might be a half inch or so which is far less delta to toe values in comparison to a 1.4" drop. I then have clients come back in a few months for a ride height health check and button up the alignment. IMO, that's the most ideal way to go about it. Different strokes for different folks but that's what we do. I chart all before and after measurements in a spreadsheet so the client can quantify any settling remotely and report back to me.

The vehicle below represents where we like to setup the non adjustables for optimal ride quality. Hope this is helpful.
20210709-Mparaz T6S MPP CNADJ-10.jpg
 
I have a parts related question (re: MPP Comfort Coilovers):

I would want to be able to reverse the install with the least amount of hassle (or reduce the effort on the initial install for that matter).

Would it help to buy a set of the OEM top hats (and related bushings/fasteners as needed), and just keep the OEM suspension parts assembled? Does MPP sell those parts (or an aftermarket equivalent)?

I guess the question is really about appreciable reduction in effort, etc.

Just wanted to say I reached out to MPP directly and Jesse provided some excellent information.
 
He always does. Jesse is the best. What year is your P and which wheel do you have? If you want spacer recs I can advise.

I'm on stock '21 M3P brakes and Ubers (with original Pirelli).

FWIW, I was going to do some 255/35 (vs. the stretched 235/35) on the stock wheels, maybe do a 5mm slip on in the front and a 14mm slip on with extended shank lugs, but that's on hold as I may wind up going with aftermarket wheels.
 
I'm on stock '21 M3P brakes and Ubers (with original Pirelli).

FWIW, I was going to do some 255/35 (vs. the stretched 235/35) on the stock wheels, maybe do a 5mm slip on in the front and a 14mm slip on with extended shank lugs, but that's on hold as I may wind up going with aftermarket wheels.
I would say 5mm slip ons front and rear with 265/30/20 tires. I think 255/35 are very tall tires and have seen some instances where an all season/winter tire has very tall tread and can rub the upright. This doesn't seem to be an issue with summer tires. I would highly advise getting the rear camber arms and running a half a degree more positive camber in the rear than the front. That should make for a symmetrical fitment with great rotation when cornering and good tire wear. Just some food for thought. If it was my car that's what I would do.
 
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I have a parts related question (re: MPP Comfort Coilovers):

I would want to be able to reverse the install with the least amount of hassle (or reduce the effort on the initial install for that matter).

Would it help to buy a set of the OEM top hats (and related bushings/fasteners as needed), and just keep the OEM suspension parts assembled? Does MPP sell those parts (or an aftermarket equivalent)?
I guess the question is really about appreciable reduction in effort, etc.
It's doable if you really want to cut down on downtime. But it's gonna cost you a few hundred bucks extra.
Plenty of used shocks/mounts on Ebay. The tophats are the same on all RWD/AWD/P trims.

IMG_20221025_215813_917.jpg
 
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It's doable if you really want to cut down on downtime. But it's gonna cost you a few hundred bucks extra.
Plenty of used shocks/mounts on Ebay. The tophats are the same on all RWD/AWD/P trims.

Yeah, I see quite a few, for < $200 I might pick up a front set, seems like something that would be easy to turn around if I wound up with a setup that didn't require them.

Thanks for the clarification on the fitment (i.e., same for all Model 3s)
 
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Yeah, I see quite a few, for < $200 I might pick up a front set, seems like something that would be easy to turn around if I wound up with a setup that didn't require them.

Thanks for the clarification on the fitment (i.e., same for all Model 3s)
If your plan is to swap just the coilovers with tophats, w/o touching the FUCA mounting bracket, don't forget to buy a thin-walled 13mm socket.
If you want to swap in FUCAs as well (like on my pic), you'll need FUCA mounts, extra FUCA mounting bolts, and extra tophat nuts. If you're not in a rush, rather than buying separately you can wait for a complete assembly similar to this one but for AWD to show up on ebay for under $150. Or call around some junk yards.