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MPP compression rod and control arm bearings.

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You're replacing every single joint in the suspension because you have no faith in them? How do you evaluate an aftermarket part to be better for sure?

While it's no 911, I don't think I've heard anyone call the Model 3 handling "trash." In fact, the car is so fast it's in SCCA's top stock class (with GT3s and GT4s). I'm interested, what alignment parameter do you think is varying over loads that causes this poor handling?


I have 500+ AutoX runs, many on very sticky tires, and I have never once heard this.
the compression rod bushing and the lower control arm bushing were both torn in less then 15k miles, is that adequate longevity with no track time? the lower control arm deterioration was not acceptable, and would have failed inevitably....
(no track time, and i went through eagle f1 supercar 3s and hankook RS4s in a couple thousand miles, i drive really hard, all the time)

those bushings were designed to tune out NVH, while MPP designed them for performance....i dont see where my theory is flawed.
even if MPP parts last the same as factory, at least the performance is enhanced.
its only top of its class because of the electric motors....not because of the handling per se, the understeer is aggressively present, and aggressively reduced with bearings over bushings.

Under heavy braking, i could literally feel the wheels shaking, and losing far too much steering input. My guess was that heavy braking/turning loads is totally washing out any toe alignment I had.
 
I have 500+ AutoX runs, many on very sticky tires, and I have never once heard this.
i was referencing the increased NVH you may experience with MPP compression rod bearings, over the inserts or stock bushing.....
do you have the bearings?

why are you even debating my comments? we all know there is room for improvement, so my exaggeration/opinnion really set you off?
your trying to debate it, but I now have a substantially better handling car.
 
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the compression rod bushing and the lower control arm bushing were both torn in less then 15k miles, is that adequate longevity with no track time? the lower control arm deterioration was not acceptable, and would have failed inevitably....
(no track time, and i went through eagle f1 supercar 3s and hankook RS4s in a couple thousand miles, i drive really hard, all the time)

those bushings were designed to tune out NVH, while MPP designed them for performance....i dont see where my theory is flawed.
even if MPP parts last the same as factory, at least the performance is enhanced.
its only top of its class because of the electric motors....not because of the handling per se, the understeer is aggressively present, and aggressively reduced with bearings over bushings.

Under heavy braking, i could literally feel the wheels shaking, and losing far too much steering input. My guess was that heavy braking/turning loads is totally washing out any toe alignment I had.
I can validate that that compression rod bushing which is the one that is horizontally oriented on the curved lower compression arm is not very durable. The right front one failed on my wife's car in only forty thousand miles of pretty easy driving and no track time. Mountain Pass confirms that this bushing is very prone to failure. Unfortunately several track guys have confirmed that replacing it with the MPP hard spherical bearing that allows you to adjust caster introduces some nvh but I don't know if that's your experience or not?
 
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I can validate that that compression rod bushing which is the one that is horizontally oriented on the curved lower compression arm is not very durable. The right front one failed on my wife's car in only forty thousand miles of pretty easy driving and no track time. Mountain Pass confirms that this bushing is very prone to failure. Unfortunately several track guys have confirmed that replacing it with the MPP hard spherical bearing that allows you to adjust caster introduces some nvh but I don't know if that's your experience or not?
@dfwatt What did that bushing look like when it failed? Torn rubber? Any separation from the arm/rod itself?

Did your wife's car have inserts in that bushing for any of those 40k miles?

I'm wondering if the inserts could help with longevity, by reducing how much the rubber can be squished/stretched/pulled/pushed. For me this is mostly just a point of curiosity, I already installed the MPP inserts, but I imagine others still considering them might want to know.
 
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I can validate that that compression rod bushing which is the one that is horizontally oriented on the curved lower compression arm is not very durable. The right front one failed on my wife's car in only forty thousand miles of pretty easy driving and no track time. Mountain Pass confirms that this bushing is very prone to failure. Unfortunately several track guys have confirmed that replacing it with the MPP hard spherical bearing that allows you to adjust caster introduces some nvh but I don't know if that's your experience or not?
The increase in NVH is very subjective. Some people just look past that since they are trying to squeeze every bit of handling out of the vehicle. The compression rod bearing is likely not for most people's daily driver.
 
@dfwatt What did that bushing look like when it failed? Torn rubber? Any separation from the arm/rod itself?

Did your wife's car have inserts in that bushing for any of those 40k miles?

I'm wondering if the inserts could help with longevity, by reducing how much the rubber can be squished/stretched/pulled/pushed. For me this is mostly just a point of curiosity, I already installed the MPP inserts, but I imagine others still considering them might want to know.
We've got an upcoming service appointment to have it replaced. I can't wait to have the service technician tell me that the reason for the bushing failure is the mountain pass coilover set.
 
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We've got an upcoming service appointment to have it replaced. I can't wait to have the service technician tell me that the reason for the bushing failure is the mountain pass coilover set.
@dfwatt Ah good luck with that, let us know how it goes. I've been assuming Tesla won't do any suspension work with coilovers on. I'll consider it a very nice bonus if they do!

I take that to mean no inserts in that bushing, since you're seeking warranty repair.
 
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@dfwatt Ah good luck with that, let us know how it goes. I've been assuming Tesla won't do any suspension work with coilovers on. I'll consider it a very nice bonus if they do!

I take that to mean no inserts in that bushing, since you're seeking warranty repair.
A manufacturer has to prove or at least have evidence other than simply their say so that a modification led to the failure that the customer is seeking to get fixed under warranty. There is no evidence the coilovers increase the load on that bushing. The bushing does not have inserts.
 
A manufacturer has to prove or at least have evidence other than simply their say so that a modification led to the failure that the customer is seeking to get fixed under warranty. There is no evidence the coilovers increase the load on that bushing. The bushing does not have inserts.
@dfwatt I'm not who you need to convince. :) I'm well aware of that law you're referencing. As I said, good luck! I do mean that, I hope they repair it for you and under warranty. Let us know the outcome and whether you had to get adversarial to achieve it.

Is your wife's car lowered? Does a lower static ride height potentially add more constant stress to that bushing? (I've only taken my suspension apart once and I'm not confident to answer that question from memory.)
 
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A manufacturer has to prove or at least have evidence other than simply their say so that a modification led to the failure that the customer is seeking to get fixed under warranty. There is no evidence the coilovers increase the load on that bushing. The bushing does not have inserts.
If you're referring to the M&M act, they only have to prove stuff if you installed an OEM-spec replacement.
Aftermarket coilovers most definitely do not conform to OEM specs, especially if they lower the car. A lot of aftermarket parts these days specifically say "for off-road use only."
I suggest you play nice with Tesla techs and maybe they'd be nice to you as well. The minute you start mentioning the M&M act in a situation like this - you lose.
 
@dfwatt What did that bushing look like when it failed? Torn rubber? Any separation from the arm/rod itself?

Did your wife's car have inserts in that bushing for any of those 40k miles?

I'm wondering if the inserts could help with longevity, by reducing how much the rubber can be squished/stretched/pulled/pushed. For me this is mostly just a point of curiosity, I already installed the MPP inserts, but I imagine others still considering them might want to know.
drive like a grandma asleep at the wheel, or on autopilot 100% of the time and every bushing may last the life of the car....(battery life)

pull out of your driveway trying to burn rubber, and take exit ramps 100MPH daily, and YMMV.

model 3 is a taxi.
model 3 perf with MPP collection is a racecar
 
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