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MPP compression rod and control arm bearings.
- Thread starter SFLM3P19
- Start date
SK360
Member
This. Plus soap... mallets... etc.
It's not just additionally - tire width influences normal tire pressure a lot. You can't be possibly talking about pressure on different tire widths.
Depends on what you do. If you running on the track you need to set your cold pressure much lower, because tires will be hot and pressure will increase. For traction stock tires seems to be best at 38. Use that number to target hot pressure on different size tires (depends on how fast you drive and how cold it's outside).
In your case it will be
OEM Size (235/35R20 XL)
Load Capacity: 1281 lbs. @ 38 psi.
New Size (265/35R19 XL)
Load Capacity: 1294 lbs. @ 31 psi.
Lindenwood
Active Member
I have about 350 miles and and 12 AutoX runs on my new MPP LCA Bearings.
WITH my Coilovers cranked toward the stiffer end and running my race tires, which were already loud and a bit more harsh, I do notice an increase in NVH. Specifically, the hum from the tires is a bit louder in the cabin, and bumps feel a bit harsher.
Back on my street tires and with the Coilovers cranked down, I can’t detect any additional NVH.
That said, handling at the limit—to include even the ~1g peak limit of my street tires, is much crisper, especially in steering precision. I am very happy with the upgrade!
My son really wanted to help:
(This was almost my first time ever beating the Fiesta!)
WITH my Coilovers cranked toward the stiffer end and running my race tires, which were already loud and a bit more harsh, I do notice an increase in NVH. Specifically, the hum from the tires is a bit louder in the cabin, and bumps feel a bit harsher.
Back on my street tires and with the Coilovers cranked down, I can’t detect any additional NVH.
That said, handling at the limit—to include even the ~1g peak limit of my street tires, is much crisper, especially in steering precision. I am very happy with the upgrade!
My son really wanted to help:
(This was almost my first time ever beating the Fiesta!)
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Lindenwood
Active Member
I have the exact same harbor freight hydraulic press. in my shed now. But i’m trying to figure out how i can use it on other projects around the house.
You could make the most dense chocolate chip cookie in history
Lindenwood
Active Member
I figured if / when I installed MPP Compression Rod Bearings I would break even from a pure cost standpoint.
That doesn’t include the hundreds of dollars in personal hourly labor I would be wasting by 1) working on my car during business hours so a shop with a press would be open, 2) driving to and waiting for a shop to actually do the work.
It ended up being a no-brained for me.
I did a Northern Tool press. Other than much preferring to do the work myself, its always a great excuse to buy new tools. I let the finance manager know how much money i saved doing it myself, and all the great honey-do things ill be able to do now. Perfect for pressing pant can lids on after painting the bedrooms, crushing plant containers for recycling bin after planting her favorite flowers and shrubs, lots of useful stuff.
Lindenwood
Active Member
Oh, and yeah I would concur longevity itself is almost a good enough reason to upgrade. Even being only 7 months old, 15k miles, 4 Autocross events, and two days on a road course were enough to already start degrading the LCA bushings:
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Had a friend installed the lfca bearings and inserts today on my MYP and omg what a difference it made in steering improvement. It compliments very nicely with the Ohlins I have and the car actually feels like a performance SUV now. I cannot believe how I could have gone so long without this.
Update:
I think most of my concern was do to everyone that had posted, commenting there was no NVH associated with the bearing. So when i got significant added road noise i was concerned that repressing the bearing had compromised it. It was very helpful to hear some people have experienced this, and that mine was not a stand alone issue. Surprisingly when i had my windshield replaced last month there was a noticeable reduction in the road noise. So maybe depending on the car, some are more sensitive to this, and additionally hearing something different that you are not anticipating, amplifies it.
Thanks for all the replies
I think most of my concern was do to everyone that had posted, commenting there was no NVH associated with the bearing. So when i got significant added road noise i was concerned that repressing the bearing had compromised it. It was very helpful to hear some people have experienced this, and that mine was not a stand alone issue. Surprisingly when i had my windshield replaced last month there was a noticeable reduction in the road noise. So maybe depending on the car, some are more sensitive to this, and additionally hearing something different that you are not anticipating, amplifies it.
Thanks for all the replies
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Lindenwood
Active Member
So, are the compression rod bearings a worthwhile upgrade over the inserts? I am putting together my “to do” list for next year, and mostly only have Comp Rod Bearings, various MPP arms, and cooling mods as the next best upgrades.
MasterC17
Active Member
I think it depends on what you're going for. A car that is only being driven on the street would be fine with just the inserts - they should sharpen up front end steering/braking and hopefully extend the life of the OE bushings.
For Auto-X/Road Course use though, having the additional caster is definitely a plus and you minimize movement in the bushing and shaking under heavy braking.
bpon89
Member
@MountainPass do we need an alignment if we only install the solid front lower control arm bearings? It’s the only things I’ve done/changes since my tire rotation on 13k mile tires in Dec. Now at 17k miles 45 days after install FLCAB, my front tires are completely bald on the inside.
Lindenwood
Active Member
It is very possible that the original bearings were not centered over the mounting holes when installed. Since the MPP bearings are centered with the pins, the camber (and thus toe) could have changed by several mm, causing your issues.
So, as a general rule of thumb one should get an alignment after any suspension work, with few exceptions (and usually the product will be advertised as not needing an alignment).
So, as a general rule of thumb one should get an alignment after any suspension work, with few exceptions (and usually the product will be advertised as not needing an alignment).
TacoSteve
Closed
You absolutely need an alignment. They can dramatically affect Toe. I see more often than not that installing the bearings pull in the front wheels causing a decrease in Camber and an Increase in Toe out.
Source: I am an alignment Tech and have installed dozens of these bearings.
bpon89
Member
For Sale. MPP LCA Bearings and press tool $350 shipped
I have MPP coilovers and FUCA and camber arms
There is only one alignment shop in my area that will do an alignment on a Tesla, and they wont adjust aftermarket parts. I thought i could adjust the camber myself . After 2 $120.00 alignments I still dont know if its close enough.
They will give me a printout for $25.00. My thought is going forward to just pay for a couple print outs and adjust it myself between printouts.
Is that feasible?
Do i need MPP rear toe arms for adjustment, i know OEM is an eccentric style?
currently camber LF -1.4 RF -1.0
toe .09 .09
LR -1.2 RR -1.0
toe .18 .20
Aiming for camber 1.5 front 1.0 rear. Toe
What would be an acceptable variance?
I have MPP coilovers and FUCA and camber arms
There is only one alignment shop in my area that will do an alignment on a Tesla, and they wont adjust aftermarket parts. I thought i could adjust the camber myself . After 2 $120.00 alignments I still dont know if its close enough.
They will give me a printout for $25.00. My thought is going forward to just pay for a couple print outs and adjust it myself between printouts.
Is that feasible?
Do i need MPP rear toe arms for adjustment, i know OEM is an eccentric style?
currently camber LF -1.4 RF -1.0
toe .09 .09
LR -1.2 RR -1.0
toe .18 .20
Aiming for camber 1.5 front 1.0 rear. Toe
What would be an acceptable variance?
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