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Vendor MPP Development of Model S Plaid - All brake/suspension upgrades to date!

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MountainPass

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Mar 2, 2018
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Hey TMC Family!

We wanted to make a single thread to display the products we have developed for the Model S over the last year or so, and share any updates on where we are headed next. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them here as well. We will update this as we add products to the lineup. This is happening very soon in the rear suspension department. How exciting!

Let's start with the rear suspension:

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Rear Toe Arms For Model S Plaid

Anyone who has aligned a newer Model S will know that the stock toe arms are a huge pain to adjust. Unless you have a 20mm wrench, you'll be on the verge of rounding the adjuster the whole time. Not to mention, the jam nut locking style of the arm causes it to change length when you lock it in. The MPP arms are beefy, much easier to adjust, and include sealed spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings like the OEM arms. When it comes to tightening up the Model S and making it a driver's car, reducing suspension compliance is vital.

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Adjustable Rear Trailing Arms For Tesla Model S Plaid

These arms bear all of the advantages of the MPP toe arms, but are focused on camber adjustment and geometry correction. The arms can be used to either increase or reduce rear camber, and the kit includes specially sized spacers to improve the bump steer characteristics of the rear suspension. Correcting the rear suspension geometry makes the car more predictable and driveable at the limit - something we all want from a sports car.

Front Suspension:

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Front Upper Control Arms + Air Drop Kit for Tesla Model S Plaid and Long Range

While the Model S does have stock caster and camber adjustment in the front suspension, they are only eccentric adjusters for the front lower control arms, and they are easily maxed out when looking for enough camber to track the car. Our front upper control arms use a novel shim system to quickly and repeatably adjust the camber and improve the front end grip. Not to mention, you can fit much bigger tires when you are running enough front camber, like the 315s we installed on all 4 corners of our MPP.R Plaid! As a bonus, our FUCA kit includes adjustable links for your air suspension so you can lower the car as well.

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Solid Front Lower Bearings for Tesla Model S Plaid

This is probably our favorite upgrade for this car and the Model 3/Y. Both front lower control arms on the MS have large rubber bushings which deflect quite a bit under load. This results in a very numb and wishy-washy feeling from the front end both under heavy braking and cornering. The stock bushings were largely responsible for Sasha saying "this was the worst driving experience of my life" when we benchmarked the car in stock form. Installing the spherical bearings for both front lower arms provides a huge increase in response and predictability with negligible impact on NVH. Not to mention, you won't have "active camber and toe" anymore after you install them.

Brakes:

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Brake Master Cylinder Brace for Tesla Model S Plaid and Long Range

When it comes to building a true driver's car, all of the inputs need to feel right. We found that in stock form, the Model S has a very long and squishy brake pedal. When designing this brace, we measured the actual brake line pressure to pedal travel ratio to ensure that our brace was working as designed. The brace reduces pedal travel by 1/2" and ensures that when you are pressing on the brake pedal, you're slowing the car down instead of flexing the firewall.

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400mm “Easy Big Fella” Big Brake Kit for Tesla Model S Plaid and Long Range

If you have 20" wheels or larger, this is the brake kit to go with. These brakes can throw anything you can handle at them, from street driving to time attack racing. They also allow you to retain your stock calipers and use any pads that are designed for them. We want our customers to have the largest range of brake compounds moving forward, as we are sure that there will be more brake pad suppliers producing pads for this shape and there will be more customers who need them. They are also still 4.4lb lighter per corner than the stock rotors, not bad at all!

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Two-Piece Stock Diameter Front Rotors for Tesla Model S Plaid and Long Range

If you're set on keeping the OEM 19" wheels, this is the kit to go for. You will reduce your unsprung weight by 5lb per corner and greatly improve the heat capacity of your braking system.

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Two-Piece Rear Rotors for Tesla Model S/X Plaid and Long Range

If you have tracked your MS already, you may have noticed that the vehicle stability control uses the rear brakes to control the attitude of the car. This is one of the things that makes Track Mode awesome, but a side effect is much more rear brake heat than normal. Keeping brake rotor temperatures down allows us to run less aggressive pads and get more out of them too. You can melt through a set of stock pads in one lapping day with stock rotors. They get hot and stay there!

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Castrol SRF Racing Brake Fluid

This should go without saying, but if you are going to take your Tesla to the track, you can't use OEM brake fluid. Castrol SRF is the best stuff on the market and has never let us down. We have been using this fluid since our Canadian Touring Car Days and have yet to boil it! The Castrol fluid is more expensive than the Pagid fluid, but the flush intervals are longer so you won't have to buy it as frequently.

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Pagid RBF Racing Brake Fluid

If you're cool with flushing your brake fluid more often (once a year at least), this fluid is much less expensive than the Castrol SRF, but quite comparable in performance. It's good to have options!

Thank you for reading and we will keep everyone updated on what's new!
 
what brake pads do you recommend using with the 400mm rotors? Also do you need to change the rear rotors if you are mostly using it for spirited driving?
If it is a street car, you can run the stock pads, or upgrade to a more street/sport-oriented pad. We just warn people to be realistic about how they are going to use the car because overdoing it on the brake pads is not pleasant after a while. The squealing and brake dust can be quite annoying! We are working on getting our own pads made to fit in with our Model 3 brake pad lineup, but in the meantime, we have been suggesting that customers reach out to G-Loc Brakes. They have the pad shapes for the Model S Plaid and can cut them in any of their compounds. I would call them and consult on which pad compound is best for your use!
 
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Do you think you could develop anything for the Plaid half shaft vibration issue? Or at least track down a cause? Tesla has no idea. Maybe upgraded half shafts or dampers to reduce the vibration?
 
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If it is a street car, you can run the stock pads, or upgrade to a more street/sport-oriented pad. We just warn people to be realistic about how they are going to use the car because overdoing it on the brake pads is not pleasant after a while. The squealing and brake dust can be quite annoying! We are working on getting our own pads made to fit in with our Model 3 brake pad lineup, but in the meantime, we have been suggesting that customers reach out to G-Loc Brakes. They have the pad shapes for the Model S Plaid and can cut them in any of their compounds. I would call them and consult on which pad compound is best for your use!
My street pads from gloc are a bit dustier than the OEMs. Not a big deal but they are dustier
 
Do you think you could develop anything for the Plaid half shaft vibration issue? Or at least track down a cause? Tesla has no idea. Maybe upgraded half shafts or dampers to reduce the vibration?
We would have to be able to reliably recreate the problem first in order to resolve it, and unfortunately, it isn't something that we or Team PGR experienced since getting the car last year.
 
We would have to be able to reliably recreate the problem first in order to resolve it, and unfortunately, it isn't something that we or Team PGR experienced since getting the car last year.
Try driving between 40 and 50 mph, and accelerate lightly up a slight hill. You'll feel a vibration in the yoke. It's possibly stronger with the suspension in medium than in low. If you have lowered the car from stock, you won't have the vibration.
 
Try driving between 40 and 50 mph, and accelerate lightly up a slight hill. You'll feel a vibration in the yoke. It's possibly stronger with the suspension in medium than in low. If you have lowered the car from stock, you won't have the vibration.
Our Plaid is lowered on MPP competition dampers, so that likely explains why! If you lower your car to the lowest ride height setting on the screen, does it go away? If so, to me, that points to driveline angles being a factor.
 
Our Plaid is lowered on MPP competition dampers, so that likely explains why! If you lower your car to the lowest ride height setting on the screen, does it go away? If so, to me, that points to driveline angles being a factor.

No, it won't go away at the lowest stock setting. A few of us have lowered the car ~0.75" with lowering links (5mm on the links). That almost entirely eliminates the vibration on the lowest setting.

 
I’ve been thinking about adjusting rear camber from the top (n2itive) versus the bottom (MPP)… can’t find anything on it that explains the pros / cons other than the bottom is easier to reach when aligning.

Would really like a physics explanation if there is one.
 
I’ve been thinking about adjusting rear camber from the top (n2itive) versus the bottom (MPP)… can’t find anything on it that explains the pros / cons other than the bottom is easier to reach when aligning.

Would really like a physics explanation if there is one.
For others, here is what my research ended up at. It is the design philosophy that shifted me to MPP over N2itive.

N2itive indicates their need to save tires and therefore reduce camber, meanwhile MPP indicates driving performance as their design ethos, not necessarily saving tires.

I thought about it and figured I wanted these parts to improve my driving performance, so I went MPP. Then I got a bit carried away and ordered “All The Stuff” - front and rears! :)

I’m sure the N2itive stuff is darn good too, but I made my choice .
 
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It has been 3 days with the totally new MPP suspension links and bearings, and oh my word… this is a totally different car than what I bought.

Yes it always had the power earlier but that was unrefined. Now all that power is channeled exactly where it needs to be.

Just changing lanes is an amazing feeling :) there is just no steering lag anymore

I may also have taken a curving freeway exit at 80mph and it handled just beautifully!
 
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It has been 3 days with the totally new MPP suspension links and bearings, and oh my word… this is a totally different car than what I bought.

Yes it always had the power earlier but that was unrefined. Now all that power is channeled exactly where it needs to be.

Just changing lanes is an amazing feeling :) there is just no steering lag anymore

I may also have taken a curving freeway exit at 80mph and it handled just beautifully!
Neat! I wonder if it fixes the half shaft vibrations?
 
It has been 3 days with the totally new MPP suspension links and bearings, and oh my word… this is a totally different car than what I bought.

Yes it always had the power earlier but that was unrefined. Now all that power is channeled exactly where it needs to be.

Just changing lanes is an amazing feeling :) there is just no steering lag anymore

I may also have taken a curving freeway exit at 80mph and it handled just beautifully!
This is what we love to hear! Glad you're enjoying it, and that you're noticing that massive difference in front-end response and feedback!

Looks like the alignment shop did a good job too, that's great to see. And as you've noticed, they had no problem removing some camber - so you can either add or remove camber with our links, all based on your preferences.
 
This is what we love to hear! Glad you're enjoying it, and that you're noticing that massive difference in front-end response and feedback!

Looks like the alignment shop did a good job too, that's great to see. And as you've noticed, they had no problem removing some camber - so you can either add or remove camber with our links, all based on your preferences.
Thanks. Yea Gabe at GTE is quite well know. For his alignments :) he was ecstatic when he stepped under the car. I think he let out a “hell yea” when he saw all that adjustability :)
 
Thanks. Yea Gabe at GTE is quite well know. For his alignments :) he was ecstatic when he stepped under the car. I think he let out a “hell yea” when he saw all that adjustability :)
That's what we like to hear! The easy-to-use design is a result of us spending years saying "oh hell no" when aligning customers' cars with a variety of aftermarket parts.
 
I was back at the alignment shop today because I think my front camber was a bit much for street driving. It was running -2.2 in the fronts with a wee bit toe out… as much as I loved the handling, I’m sure I’d have eaten the front tires in 3 months!

So new front alignment is now -1.3 with a toe of … wait for it… toe IN (wee bit).

The handling is even better. I was explained that if you toe IN the front, the contact patch actually elongates while turning!

How cool that I can do these sorta things now :)