Vendor MPP Model 3 Build Thread

[Blu Angel]

Sasha,
Finally got the MPP camber arms and MPP toe arms installed today.

My first impression is that my TM3 is riding on a "pillow of air"
All those jiggly tar strips anDD cracked pavement aberrations disappear!

The ride has become limousine smooth!!
Btw, great to finally meet Sasha in person.....the little nugget of info I gleamed today is that
both the MPP sport & MPP comfort coilovers will soon be arriving from Germany (Manufactued in Europe)

Fellow GTA (Greater Toronto Area) Tesla owners, The fellas at Touge Tuning really rock!
Chris re-aligned my wheels using some new damaged laser sited machine....very professional
and super clean tune shop

 

[MountainPass]

Sasha,
Finally got the MPP camber arms and MPP toe arms installed today.

My first impression is that my TM3 is riding on a "pillow of air"
All those jiggly tar strips anDD cracked pavement aberrations disappear!

The ride has become limousine smooth!!
Btw, great to finally meet Sasha in person.....the little nugget of info I gleamed today is that
both the MPP sport & MPP comfort coilovers will soon be arriving from Germany (Manufactued in Europe)

Fellow GTA (Greater Toronto Area) Tesla owners, The fellas at Touge Tuning really rock!
Chris re-aligned my wheels using some new damaged laser sited machine....very professional
and super clean tune shop

We are glad to hear you are loving your MPP parts! The Touge guys are great, we would recommend them to any other Tesla owners in the GTA looking to get work done on their car.

 

[GregRF]

Hey @MountainPass could you post screen caps of your SOC dyno tests?

Great Work!

 

[Daniel in SD]

I see on your website that you're planning to go to 275/35R19 tires on 19x10 +35 on all four wheels. That must be a super tight fit in the front! Does that require rolling the fenders or extra camber?

 

[240W]

sweet, I was just guessing that 19X10 +35 with 275's will fit when gilscales provided the clearance pic at the other thread, only requirement is that it needs to be lowered (stock setup will stick out alot)
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and now MP will actually do it!

I thought for the front, camber wasn't adjustable, unless they've already made adjustable camber kit!!! (if so, how many degrees adjustable?)

 

[Daniel in SD]

sweet, I was just guessing that 19X10 +35 with 275's will fit when gilscales provided the clearance pic at the other thread, only requirement is that it needs to be lowered (stock setup will stick out alot)
Group Buy Poll for Mono-Block Forged Alloy Wheels by Titan

and now MP will actually do it!

I thought for the front, camber wasn't adjustable, unless they've already made adjustable camber kit!!! (if so, how many degrees adjustable?)

How will lowering give more fender clearance? You also need to consider clearance on the inside of the wheel well at full steering lock.

 

[240W]

How will lowering give more fender clearance? You also need to consider clearance on the inside of the wheel well at full steering lock.

That is correct, I was referring to having a widest wheel fit from the outside standpoint/fender (where lowering will allow more room), inner clearance also must be considered.
I assumed the inside will clear based on someone running the 9.5 +38 and someone else running 9.5 +30 so anything that occupies that space like 10 wide +35 on 275 “should” fit

 

[Daniel in SD]

That is correct, I was referring to having a widest wheel fit from the outside standpoint/fender (where lowering will allow more room), inner clearance also must be considered.
I assumed the inside will clear based on someone running the 9.5 +38 and someone else running 9.5 +30 so anything that occupies that space like 10 wide +35 on 275 “should” fit

I'm not picturing how lowering will allow more room though... It doesn't change the path the wheel travels in.
I'm planning on running 265/40R18 on 18x9.5 +35 so I'm glad to hear that there will be some margin on that.
Interested in hearing what MPPs experience since they're probably flexing the bushings with high-g cornering. There can be significant tire deflection too.

 

[240W]

I'm not picturing how lowering will allow more room though... It doesn't change the path the wheel travels in.
I'm planning on running 265/40R18 on 18x9.5 +35 so I'm glad to hear that there will be some margin on that.
Interested in hearing what MPPs experience since they're probably flexing the bushings with high-g cornering. There can be significant tire deflection too.

lowering is like compressing the car, the suspension is on fixed pivot points (when it pivots, it will go inwards), simple picture via google:

so imagine the dotted blue wheel is your new lowered set up, with lower roll center, and imagine even if it's aligned and cambered to factory spec (so outer wheel edge = the solid red line), as you can see, now you have more room on the outside to fit to the fender. So even if you want the same spec factory width wheels, you'll need to get a lower offset (or spacers) for the same "flush" fitment.

well, that's the way I think of it, hopefully I'm not waaay off, lol

 

[Daniel in SD]

lowering is like compressing the car, the suspension is on fixed pivot points (when it pivots, it will go inwards), simple picture via google:

so imagine the dotted blue wheel is your new lowered set up, with lower roll center, and imagine even if it's aligned and cambered to factory spec (so outer wheel edge = the solid red line), as you can see, now you have more room on the outside to fit to the fender. So even if you want the same spec factory width wheels, you'll need to get a lower offset (or spacers) for the same "flush" fitment.

well, that's the way I think of it, hopefully I'm not waaay off, lol

It seems like if you adjust the camber on the lowered car to match the factory alignment it will actually move the top of the wheel outwards, giving you less clearance.
The wheel moves inward as it travels upward toward the fender whether the car is lowered or not.

 

[240W]

Hmm, I don’t see it that way, I see it go inwards toward the wheel well, further away from fender lip

So the red dotted line intersects the blue dotted line as the top center point of lowered set up. If you adjust the camber correctly the outer wheel edge will be the red solid line. I don’t see how it’ll give less clearance to fit wider wheel. Anyhoo, I’m curious to see if they do run 10 wide up front...

 

[JRP3]

You don't want to run the car with that camber angle because of inside tire wear. You would have to adjust the camber after lowering the vehicle.

 

[MountainPass]

Yes, we ran the car with the 10+35 and the 275 RE71-R (a tire that fits a bit on the large side), and there was no rubbing at full lock in either direction, or on the racetrack - even with full countersteer when sliding.

There is a tiny amount of clearance to the knuckle and a very small amount of clearance to the fender. I thought the wheel/tire would rub the fender when countersteering, but I guess we have enough roll rate in it to prevent that.

More front camber from the upper control arm would certainly help both in terms of grip and clearance. This is about as tight as you can run and it's just a total fluke that it worked out so perfectly using an off the shelf wheel size!

 

[Perry]

Yes, we ran the car with the 10+35 and the 275 RE71-R (a tire that fits a bit on the large side), and there was no rubbing at full lock in either direction, or on the racetrack - even with full countersteer when sliding.

There is a tiny amount of clearance to the knuckle and a very small amount of clearance to the fender. I thought the wheel/tire would rub the fender when countersteering, but I guess we have enough roll rate in it to prevent that.

More front camber from the upper control arm would certainly help both in terms of grip and clearance. This is about as tight as you can run and it's just a total fluke that it worked out so perfectly using an off the shelf wheel size!

Would it be possible to take some pictures of that setup so we can see what it looks like?

 

[Daniel in SD]

Hmm, I don’t see it that way, I see it go inwards toward the wheel well, further away from fender lip

So the red dotted line intersects the blue dotted line as the top center point of lowered set up. If you adjust the camber correctly the outer wheel edge will be the red solid line. I don’t see how it’ll give less clearance to fit wider wheel. Anyhoo, I’m curious to see if they do run 10 wide up front...

You reduce the camber by shortening the lower arm (most common way) or lengthening the upper arm. Either way the top of the wheel moves outward.
The Model 3 has no camber adjustment anyway. Lowering the car just moves the wheel along the same path as compressing the suspension so it’s not going to give you more fender clearance.

More front camber from the upper control arm would certainly help both in terms of grip and clearance. This is about as tight as you can run and it's just a total fluke that it worked out so perfectly using an off the shelf wheel size!

Any plans to make a camber adjustment solution for the front? On previous cars I’ve had to run more camber to get my tires to wear evenly

 

[240W]

You reduce the camber by shortening the lower arm (most common way) or lengthening the upper arm. Either way the top of the wheel moves outward.
The Model 3 has no camber adjustment anyway. Lowering the car just moves the wheel along the same path as compressing the suspension so it’s not going to give you more fender clearance.

not actual physical clearance, but a visual clearance (if that makes any sense). Sticking a 10 wide +35 in a lowered car will look flush to the fender, sticking the same wheel on a non lowered one will stick out half inch. Compression path is the same.

 

[MountainPass]

Would it be possible to take some pictures of that setup so we can see what it looks like?

From the outside it looks almost exactly the same as our 9" +25 wheels that you would have seen. I'll see if I can find any photos from our track day, but the 10" +35 is not much further out (0.5" - 10mm = 2.7mm)

 

[MountainPass]

You reduce the camber by shortening the lower arm (most common way) or lengthening the upper arm. Either way the top of the wheel moves outward.
The Model 3 has no camber adjustment anyway. Lowering the car just moves the wheel along the same path as compressing the suspension so it’s not going to give you more fender clearance.

Any plans to make a camber adjustment solution for the front? On previous cars I’ve had to run more camber to get my tires to wear evenly

Thinking long and hard about it! We have a couple of ideas but the OEM upper arm is a pretty beautiful piece of engineering, anything aftermarket would be heavier and taller.

 

[Daniel in SD]

Thinking long and hard about it! We have a couple of ideas but the OEM upper arm is a pretty beautiful piece of engineering, anything aftermarket would be heavier and taller.

How bad was your outside tire wear on those RE71Rs?
Maybe some sort of offset bushings could work?

 

[Perry]

From the outside it looks almost exactly the same as our 9" +25 wheels that you would have seen. I'll see if I can find any photos from our track day, but the 10" +35 is not much further out (0.5" - 10mm = 2.7mm)

I did not see any pictures directly from the front or back to see how much the wheels stick out from the fenders.