Hi Guys,
This past week I installed MPP swaybars on my car. Just wanted to give you guys some comments about the bar installation and feedback on both street and track.
Install:
Front:
-This process is a bit involved, you have to remove two panels:
first one under the front bumper – this one is tedious as there are many 2-piece plastic clips to remove (using a small flat head screwdriver). You also have to open up the inner wheel liner a bit to access inside the bumper opening corners to remove the 10mm nuts holding the panel to the bumper (2)
-For the second panel, under the front suspension – easy, simply remove all the 10mm bolts and 2 nuts to remove the panel.
-Once that’s all done remove the nuts holding the endlinks, and then the 4 nuts holding the bar brackets
-Another tedious part is to swap the OEM bar brackets, you have to force them off the rubber bushings but they eventually come off
-Careful with the white grease (EXTREMELY STICKY!). Use a napkin to spread the grease inside the new poly bushings
-Press bushings onto the bar
-Press the OEM brackets onto the poly bushings (use a rubber mallet on a firm surface to help).
-Orient the bushings brackets properly
-Use a jack to pump the bar up close the mounting points and then install the 4 nuts first. Then pick your desired mounting hole for the endlinks and attach the 2 nuts
Rear:
-rear bar is the easiest, all you need to do is to remove the rear plastic panel (that covers rear motor and suspension). These are 10mm bolts (use a power tool it goes a lot faster).
-Install the provided brackets/bushings (make sure to put white grease inside the openings – be careful the grease is very sticky on your hands!)
-You don’t need to swap brackets, just install as is. Remove the nuts holding the endlinks to the ends of the swaybar (2) and the 4 bolts holding the bar brackets to the underframe.
-Use a jack to pump the bar up close the mounting points and then install the 4 bolts first. Then pick your desired mounting hole for the endlinks and attach the nuts
Street:
-Definitely an increase in stiffness, due to the stiffer poly bushings and increased stiffness of the bar itself, this translates to a somewhat firmer ride, I lowered the compression adjustment a bit (2 clicks) and it was fine.
-The car is more uniform (side to side). You can tell there was more slop in the old bar (rubber bushings)
-Less body roll, quicker transitions, great for spirited driving.
-Complements the MPP suspension components nicely
Track:
-Harmony of the bar and components is amazing, everything working together. Car takes a set and sticks.
-I ran middle setting on both bars and the balance was very neutral
-Definitely adds spring rate to the corners, and loads the outside tires more but allows the car to stay planted better (in transition). I always thought the car wallowed alot in transitions. The bars help correct this.
-With the flexibility to make adjustments front and rear, you can dial in as much front to rear stiffness ratio as you want (if you feel the car pushes, soften the front and if it’s too snappy, soften the rear).
Job well done for the MPP team again - another component that completes the suspension puzzle. One thing I love about MPP products is that they all are designed to work together in concert, a result of real world testing and true engineering.
-Steve
This past week I installed MPP swaybars on my car. Just wanted to give you guys some comments about the bar installation and feedback on both street and track.
Install:
Front:
-This process is a bit involved, you have to remove two panels:
first one under the front bumper – this one is tedious as there are many 2-piece plastic clips to remove (using a small flat head screwdriver). You also have to open up the inner wheel liner a bit to access inside the bumper opening corners to remove the 10mm nuts holding the panel to the bumper (2)
-For the second panel, under the front suspension – easy, simply remove all the 10mm bolts and 2 nuts to remove the panel.
-Once that’s all done remove the nuts holding the endlinks, and then the 4 nuts holding the bar brackets
-Another tedious part is to swap the OEM bar brackets, you have to force them off the rubber bushings but they eventually come off
-Careful with the white grease (EXTREMELY STICKY!). Use a napkin to spread the grease inside the new poly bushings
-Press bushings onto the bar
-Press the OEM brackets onto the poly bushings (use a rubber mallet on a firm surface to help).
-Orient the bushings brackets properly
-Use a jack to pump the bar up close the mounting points and then install the 4 nuts first. Then pick your desired mounting hole for the endlinks and attach the 2 nuts
Rear:
-rear bar is the easiest, all you need to do is to remove the rear plastic panel (that covers rear motor and suspension). These are 10mm bolts (use a power tool it goes a lot faster).
-Install the provided brackets/bushings (make sure to put white grease inside the openings – be careful the grease is very sticky on your hands!)
-You don’t need to swap brackets, just install as is. Remove the nuts holding the endlinks to the ends of the swaybar (2) and the 4 bolts holding the bar brackets to the underframe.
-Use a jack to pump the bar up close the mounting points and then install the 4 bolts first. Then pick your desired mounting hole for the endlinks and attach the nuts
Street:
-Definitely an increase in stiffness, due to the stiffer poly bushings and increased stiffness of the bar itself, this translates to a somewhat firmer ride, I lowered the compression adjustment a bit (2 clicks) and it was fine.
-The car is more uniform (side to side). You can tell there was more slop in the old bar (rubber bushings)
-Less body roll, quicker transitions, great for spirited driving.
-Complements the MPP suspension components nicely
Track:
-Harmony of the bar and components is amazing, everything working together. Car takes a set and sticks.
-I ran middle setting on both bars and the balance was very neutral
-Definitely adds spring rate to the corners, and loads the outside tires more but allows the car to stay planted better (in transition). I always thought the car wallowed alot in transitions. The bars help correct this.
-With the flexibility to make adjustments front and rear, you can dial in as much front to rear stiffness ratio as you want (if you feel the car pushes, soften the front and if it’s too snappy, soften the rear).
Job well done for the MPP team again - another component that completes the suspension puzzle. One thing I love about MPP products is that they all are designed to work together in concert, a result of real world testing and true engineering.
-Steve
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