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MS Coupe - Completely Flat Floor

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by wycolo, Apr 27, 2014.

  1. wycolo

    wycolo Active Member

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    #1 wycolo, Apr 27, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2014
    Folded down, the rear seat back is lumpy, unstable and in the way. Car camping is a nightmare due to the different levels and there being inadequate length (too much rear legroom). Then there are those owners who never use the rear seats anyway, NEVER. Thus we are building a perfectly level floor that offers 5 foot 8 inches straight, 7 ft diagonally into the hatch side pockets. This floor could be made longer, but at 5' 8" there is 10" of 'foot room' behind driver's seat for storage, so a good balance. Also the carpeted floor will be 9.5 inches above passenger floor and only 4.0 inches above door sill.

    See separate thread on 'Removing Rear Seat Completely'.

    Two layers of 0.42 inch flake board are used as two are easier to handle and work with. Also allows more careful trimming of top panel around the edges. If you extend the top panel into the curved side areas further than the lower panel, it could be cut in two pieces to make handling easier. The lower panel with support cleats attached, lifts up at the front and then slips out of the five rear hooks (part of the seat frame).

    The cleats are 1x3/8 by 3/4 inch fastened with sheet rock screws.

    MS-floor-1-supports.jpg MS-floor-2-bottom.view.jpg MS-floor-3-detail.jpg MS-floor-4-bottom.panel.R.jpg MS-floor-5-bottom.panel.L.jpg
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  2. JerryNycom

    JerryNycom Member

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    Whats the project?
     
  3. flodrab

    flodrab Member

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    I absolutely love this concept, as I mentioned in the other thread about removing the rear seat ... (I'm the guy with the PT Cruiser) ... but it requires a fairly big, somewhat destructive, not easily reversed, commitment in the form of hacksawing out the back seat ... I want something similar, and hope to figure out a way to have an easily-removed platform over the intact rear seats ... best of both worlds ... but that's not the reason for this response ... as I said, I love the concept, but I must take exception with the title ... a coupe, by definition, is a 2-door ... (also must have a fixed roof, but that's irrelevant to the discussion) ... therefore, by definition, this is NOT a coupe ... you really need to call it something else
     
  4. wycolo

    wycolo Active Member

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    > but it requires a fairly big, somewhat destructive, not easily reversed, commitment in the form of hacksawing out the back seat [flodrab]

    You misunderstand the removal process probably because I failed to take a photo of the rear seat frame OUTSIDE the car with the center support being cut off with a Sawzall. I leaned it up against a wall and the cut was quick n easy. NO metal filings were shed over the twin chargers! The frame is easy to remove and replace, just the 10 bolts, nothing to fuss with.

    Replacing stock rear seat requires removing frame, inserting 5 inch steel bar, then drilling and tapping for 4 flathead bolts which will reattach the center mount 'ouch post'. Or of course it can be welded back into place. Bolting together will be very strong and always convertible.

    The ONLY thing that was difficult during seat removal was yanking the 2 corner clips of the seat bottom. If you can't manage to pop these I'd suggest having your Service Center do this for you. They tend to bind up.

    > this is NOT a coupe ... you really need to call it something else [flodrab]

    NON-SEDAN would be accurate since it has become a 2-passenger vehicle legally speaking. If the rear door latches could be disconnected without throwing faults, then this would essentially become a COUPE or mini HEARSE. Rear door handles would never present, rear doors never open, yet windows would still work normally.

    The OP of the REAR SEAT COMPLETE REMOVAL thread and myself are the only self-admitted 'rear seat refusniks' that I'm aware of. IOW we have no use for the back seat as a passenger accommodation. I have given test drives on three occasions briefly in a town. The only other times I have put the rear seat back UP is when I'm carrying something heavy or cumbersome in the hatch area. Some MS owners carry dogs back there. I plan to eventually add a vertical partition (removable) to simulate this barrier function. Right now I need to carry 2 crates that will extend further foreward, so will rely on the side seatbelts (clipped together in the center) to restrain the crates during decelleration. French Clipping - an old SUV practice of joining the two belt clips together.

    MS CAMPER - This would best describe the main intention here, but this is no VW-Westfalia concoction with everything including a kitchen sink. The beauty of car camping is that ALL it requires is a long flat floor in back that can be immediately accessed. Drive until you almost drop, then crash in the back.

    Hatch window will have alum reflective permanently attached. Driver's rear window will have Flat Stanley attached then be spray painted black over it. Other rear window will have a black cover that can pop on/off for privacy. That is the extent of this project.

    > Whats the project? [Jerry Nycom]
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  5. flodrab

    flodrab Member

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    I've had my PT Cruiser for a little over 8 years ... the first week I had it I removed the rear seats, wrapped them in some heavy plastic, put them in a storage closet in the garage, and they've been there ever since ... due to its boxy shape, there's quite a bit a room back there, and I think of it as a 3/4 scale mini-van ... I, too, have no use for a back seat, and consider myself a "rear seat refusnik" ... I just wish it was a little easier to accomplish
     
  6. roblab

    roblab Active Member

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    Just for interest's sake, I have wanted to be able to crash in the back. I have pain issues, so whenever we go on a trip, I take a 3" egg crate to help with hotel mattresses. I have found that a 2' x 4' sheet of three eighths plywood, sanded so no splinters, will lay down behind the driver's seat, partly over the leg room to up near the back seat itself, and back over the folded rear seat hump. Then the egg crate with a sheet, and you have a nice comfy bed for someone 6'4" laying on their side. Or for someone shorter, even better. Luggage goes in the Frunk, so it's made in Tesla Heaven.

    And it saves removing the seat, or feeling lumps and angles under you. It really is quite comfy.
     
  7. flodrab

    flodrab Member

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    this is exactly what I'm trying to figure out ... something easily installed and removed, no hacksaws involved, and allowing the rear seats to remain in place ... could you post a picture?
     
  8. Jeeps17

    Jeeps17 Cath Jockey in a P85

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    As an aside, nice view of the twin chargers in your first picture.

    Good luck with your project!
     
  9. wycolo

    wycolo Active Member

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    I used to have 2 or even 3 dogs so the Chevy Crew Cab pickup needed a flat rear floor. Got a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and a 2x6 plus some carpet. Dogs ecstatic with their new space. Retired the one-ton Chevy gasser for a diesel '98 Dodge Cummins and moved the doggie floor into the new truck. It fit perfectly without modification!! How is such synergy possible? Perhaps a plot by SAE engineers to slip this by the Big Three; give them a good chuckle at Truckfests.

    TM appears to be following this revered tradition by making a perfectly flat rear floor easily doable.

    Dodge.rear.floor1.jpg

    Toss the dogs into the front seats and you could almost completely stretch out on the flat rear floor. So you could leave the camper-back at home unless you really needed it.

    In the photos you see the 60 pounds of removed MS rear seating parts.

    No outdoor work today, brrr.
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  10. wycolo

    wycolo Active Member

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    New floor in use: tossed 82 pounds of feed bags into the back with hardly any lifting required. Next up, couple layers of rug.

    MS-rear.floor1.jpg
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