-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
alseTrick
Active Member
I haven't been invited to configure yet, but I like the location on the trunk of the RPM one. I just have some hesitation about it being a vinyl wrap. Conversely, I don't like that EVAnnex location, and I think $120 is overpriced, but I like that it's supposedly not just a vinyl application (their install video was weak, though; it didn't actually show any installation). I wonder if you could simply apply it to the bottom lip instead of putting it on the top lip like they suggest.
I definitely want the center console done, too. But I don't feel like spending the time to put it on, especially around the cupholders. I would be ok with hiring someone to do that when getting other aftermarket stuff done like window tint.
I think the only bummer about using the bottom lip is that the chrome won’t look as noticeable and the lettering won’t be as prominent (at least that’s my guess)
I'm pretty sure the Evannex applique is too tall for the lower lip. It wouldn't fit there, without part of it sticking above or below the lip, which I'm sure would eventually cause it to fall off from water and road grime getting under the adhesive. Part of the reason I don't like the RPM vinyl, is that it looks like it partially extends above the lower lip, and I would be afraid that it could look uneven.
I've asked my ppf guy if he can put a small strip of vinyl over the area, and then I can place the Evannex on top of the vinyl, and remove it without damaging the paint. At least that's my latest plan. Haven't decided 100% whether to commit to it. And yes, it would have been nice if Evannex would have shown the actual installation, instead of just describing it. But I think it sounds easier to place than the RPM version, since it's more rigid and you don't have to fiddle with the tiny TESLA vinyl cutouts.
Here's a side by side comparison (Evannex on left, RPM on right):
You can see that the RPM version actually extends above the lower lip:
Not that that's a bad thing. Maybe it even adds a sense that it's not 2D vinyl? But I feel like the RPM placement would look better from low down, since it's angled down, and the Evannex would be better from normal height or above?
You can see that the RPM version actually extends above the lower lip:
Not that that's a bad thing. Maybe it even adds a sense that it's not 2D vinyl? But I feel like the RPM placement would look better from low down, since it's angled down, and the Evannex would be better from normal height or above?
alseTrick
Active Member
I feel like it shouldn't be too hard for whomever EVAnnex has make their applique to make one for the bottom lip that is wedge-shaped (bottom portion being thicker than the top), in order for the "TESLA" lettering to face outwards instead of downwards. Right? That doesn't seem like it should be difficult at all.
I'm not so much worried about the installation. It should be fairly straight forward. But it would've been really nice if you actually saw the thickness of the applique and its overall "quality" (to the extent you can determine such via youtube).
For me, it's not even close. RPM looks much better. Crazy how that small difference has a big effect.
TheFunStarts
Member
insaneoctane
Well-Known Member
Not quite the same thing, but I prefer this look if the objective is to get the word 'Tesla' on the back of the Model 3, similar to the 'performance' Model 3 that Franz was spotted in. It's coming in a couple of weeks (chrome and matte black).
We took a video showing the removal of the T-logo (will be uploaded soon)....there's a view videos online which look quite brutal, but with the right tools and technique it's dead easy, and doesn't damage the paint at all. The letters are pre-spaced to make it really easy to install, and since the T logo marks the exact center, just mark where that is before it's removed, and you're good to go. Here's a couple of stills from the installation video, the first showing with the backing paper still attached, and the second part-way through the application. You start with the S as the center-marker, and then work outwards, aligning the bottom of the clear film with the arc of the trunk to maintain the correct line.
Get some waxed dental floss and shimmy it behind the T. If there's any adhesive left on the body, a cloth dabbed in mineral spirits will clean it right off. Mineral spirits is perfectly safe for cured paint. Same technique works for any sort of badging.
The dental floss didn't work for me, not sure why, but in the end some fishing line was far more successful. We've uploaded the videos showing the removal of the "T", and the addition of the performance emblem. Both are really easy, but the removal just takes a little time and patience.
Next time try the floss without preheating. I've never needed to heat the adhesive. The heating actually makes the adhesive goo-ey. Good for when you apply new badges to get them to stick better (or applying the Model 3 front plate mount). Not good for easy removal.
Also, mineral spirits, paint thinner, or gasoline. It would have taken 20 seconds tops to clean off all the adhesive. No need for scraper. Gas will leave a bit of oily residue. Mineral spirits and paint thinner will evaporate cleanly when wiped off with a cloth.
Nothing wrong with your method; it's just more work, and many people don't have ready access to fishing line.
If the floss is snapping for you, just double or quadruple up with the floss.
Also, mineral spirits, paint thinner, or gasoline. It would have taken 20 seconds tops to clean off all the adhesive. No need for scraper. Gas will leave a bit of oily residue. Mineral spirits and paint thinner will evaporate cleanly when wiped off with a cloth.
Nothing wrong with your method; it's just more work, and many people don't have ready access to fishing line.
If the floss is snapping for you, just double or quadruple up with the floss.
Last edited:
Thanks. I've got nothing left to test with, so I'll let someone else try without heating it, makes sense though. I'm not sure if the "T" being metal makes things more tricky in terms of having sharper edges, certain the fact that it retains the heat probably accounted for the earlier demise of the floss. Doubling up on the floss didn't work for me, and you're right, I was convinced I could find something vaguely like fishing line in the house, but nope, had to go buy some! I'm going to add the option for small kit with the basic tools needed, i.e. the plastic razor blade, fishing line and two 4oz spray bottles of the Speedshine and Adhesive Remover just to save a bit of frustration, since most people probably won't have all those bits easily to hand, and I'm all for making something as easy as possible.
Similar threads
