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MS P85D wheel spacers?

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Did you order the Design 3 spacers or the flat ones? That dictates whether you’ll need diff lug nuts or not. 20/25mm should be fine. The 19s in the back may look a bit much pushed out that far, but when you get the Turbines, it’ll look great.

Stock offset means the wheels are manufactured with 40mm of offset. No factory wheel setups ever have spacers installed.

Here’s the go-to site/tool to familiarize yourself with wheel specs/offset info.
Wheel Offset Calculator | 1010Tires.com Discount Online Tire and Wheel Store

I went with Design 3. Am I correct in my understanding that I will not need new lugs? I'm pretty handy, but thankfully I have a friend who's a mechanic helping me to install.

Thanks for the link, brilliant! I guess we'll have to see how everything looks once they're on... hopefully the rears aren't too out of proportion.
 
I went with Design 3. Am I correct in my understanding that I will not need new lugs? I'm pretty handy, but thankfully I have a friend who's a mechanic helping me to install.

Thanks for the link, brilliant! I guess we'll have to see how everything looks once they're on... hopefully the rears aren't too out of proportion.
You should be fine then. I think others also asked Lenny to send steel lugs vs aluminum.
Installing spacers is not daunting. All you’re doomg is putting a plate between the hub and the wheel.
 
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You should be fine then. I think others also asked Lenny to send steel lugs vs aluminum.
Installing spacers is not daunting. All you’re doomg is putting a plate between the hub and the wheel.

Thank you much. Yeah, I figured as much... can't be any more of a pain in the ass then the serpentine pulley I just replaced on my backup car, a 1999 VW Passat GL6 w/ 306K miles. $50 bucks and back on the road! ;)

Aside from the exaggerated aesthetic w/ 19's... is there any potential for tire/fender contact with 25 in the rear?

Also, I just now considered to ask this; are the 21" turbines also 8" wide? In other words, would I need to consider a different tire width when I swap summer/winter wheels?
 
Aside from the exaggerated aesthetic w/ 19's... is there any potential for tire/fender contact with 25 in the rear?

Also, I just now considered to ask this; are the 21" turbines also 8" wide? In other words, would I need to consider a different tire width when I swap summer/winter wheels?
Should have no issues with rubbing unless you slammed the car with lowering links or something.

Stock Turbines are 21x8.5 for a squared setup or 21x9 in the rear for staggered. Tires would be 245/35/21 square or 265/35/21 in the rear for staggered. I run 275 just fine on my 20s. Def need to do some homework if you go this route to ensure no rubbing. The rear fender liners are “warped” so I had to pin them back via zip ties.
 
Thank you much. Yeah, I figured as much... can't be any more of a pain in the ass then the serpentine pulley I just replaced on my backup car, a 1999 VW Passat GL6 w/ 306K miles. $50 bucks and back on the road! ;)

Aside from the exaggerated aesthetic w/ 19's... is there any potential for tire/fender contact with 25 in the rear?

Also, I just now considered to ask this; are the 21" turbines also 8" wide? In other words, would I need to consider a different tire width when I swap summer/winter wheels?

I run a 14mm ET offset in the rear with 19x9 OEM Forged BMW 6 Series wheels ... absolutely no issues :cool:

249 Wheel.jpg
 
10K Mile Update on the Motortech spacers:

No significant problems to report... yet. When I swap my tires (i.e. replace due to wear) every 10K miles, I check the spacers. I live in Southern LA (not L.A.), so no snow or salt. I noticed a couple of my spacer bolt head are looking puny...

TeslaSpacer.jpg


I'm not sure how far this oxidation will go, but hopefully not to a part failure point. I'll be watching it. I'm also not sure what all the "goober" is on the surface. I clean it with Simple Green, but it keeps returning.

People have asked about fender rubbing. With the factory Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 21", they rub very slightly on a near full lock steer in both directions...

TeslaRubbing.jpg


I'm still running the Michelin's in front. I've replaced the rear with Falken's this go-round and have noticed they have a slightly taller profile despite being the exact same 265/35R21 (about 3.65 inches tall) measurement. I know this because there is a specific spot (spots) on I-10 between Lafayette and Baton Rouge, that I frequent, that cause the car to "bottom out" the suspension at 70 mph. With the Michelin's in the rear, and the suspension on auto-lowering at 70 mph, those areas were never a problem. With the Falken's, they are a consistent problem. In my years as a "car guy", I know different tire manufacturers can have different profiles (rounded vs. squared) despite a consistent sidewall measurement.

As an additional note, people have voiced concern (myself included) about the metal quality of the Motortech supplied lug nuts. Here is a comparison....

TeslaLugNuts.jpg


Yes, I used the proper size socket on the nuts. Part of the problem is the depth of the nut and the flange close to the collar. There just isn't enough nut to grab. I torque to 130 specifically, so it isn't because of attempting to over torque.
 
do you think if i get a smaller spacer it would stop rubbing?
Unlikely. Without a spacer, turn your wheels and look at the clearance... it's very close with no spacer.

I would think some enterprising vendor would create an "anti-rubbing inner fender" for sale. A quick visual inspection gives me the impression that isn't a big piece of plastic. It looks like it comes out "easy" and could be easily replaced. It doesn't appear to have significant purpose aside from cooling ducts for the brakes.
 
Unlikely. Without a spacer, turn your wheels and look at the clearance... it's very close with no spacer.

I would think some enterprising vendor would create an "anti-rubbing inner fender" for sale. A quick visual inspection gives me the impression that isn't a big piece of plastic. It looks like it comes out "easy" and could be easily replaced. It doesn't appear to have significant purpose aside from cooling ducts for the brakes.
Scrub patch is really small for me. Only under close to full lock AND on an incline (my driveway).
So now I just don’t turn the wheel as much or just creep when backing into my garage. 245/40/20 fronts.
 

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Scrub patch is really small for me. Only under close to full lock AND on an incline (my driveway).
Mine is only slightly larger and on flat surfaces or otherwise.

245/40/20 fronts.
40% of 245mm is 98mm or about 3.9". The radius of a 20" wheel should be about 10" plus the 3.9" height of the tire, so 13.9" between the center of the hub and the inner fender. This doesn't account for the width of the tire (about 9.6") and how that changes the dynamics of contact.

On a 245/45-21 tire, the numbers tell a different story. 45% of 245mm is 4.4". The radius of a 21" wheel should be about 10.5" plus the 4.4" height of the tire, so 14.9"... almost an inch more! The tire width is the same, so the same dynamics would apply.

I'm actually surprised the 20" rubs. What brand of tire are you running? Different manufacturers have different tire profiles. I can see the difference in the profile of the Michelin Pilot Super Sports (more squared) vs. the Falken FK510s (more rounded).
 
Mine is only slightly larger and on flat surfaces or otherwise.


40% of 245mm is 98mm or about 3.9". The radius of a 20" wheel should be about 10" plus the 3.9" height of the tire, so 13.9" between the center of the hub and the inner fender. This doesn't account for the width of the tire (about 9.6") and how that changes the dynamics of contact.

On a 245/45-21 tire, the numbers tell a different story. 45% of 245mm is 4.4". The radius of a 21" wheel should be about 10.5" plus the 4.4" height of the tire, so 14.9"... almost an inch more! The tire width is the same, so the same dynamics would apply.

I'm actually surprised the 20" rubs. What brand of tire are you running? Different manufacturers have different tire profiles. I can see the difference in the profile of the Michelin Pilot Super Sports (more squared) vs. the Falken FK510s (more rounded).
We are very similar wrt to data. I calculated everything out before I pulled the trigger on my current setup. To be exact, it’s 704mm total, giving you 352mm or your 13.86” number. :)
The front wheels are +35mm offset so maybe that lines up the tire (FK510, btw) just right up with a “higher” part of the liner? Incline def contributes to this as well as always riding in low setting. Either way, no biggie and easily avoidable for me.
 
i'm rubbing as well on a near full lock steer, but mine sounds pretty rough, maybe my tires are too new? do you think if i get a smaller spacer it would stop rubbing?
Unlikely. Without a spacer, turn your wheels and look at the clearance... it's very close with no spacer.

I would think some enterprising vendor would create an "anti-rubbing inner fender" for sale. A quick visual inspection gives me the impression that isn't a big piece of plastic. It looks like it comes out "easy" and could be easily replaced. It doesn't appear to have significant purpose aside from cooling ducts for the brakes.

Scrub patch is really small for me. Only under close to full lock AND on an incline (my driveway). So now I just don’t turn the wheel as much or just creep when backing into my garage. 245/40/20 fronts.

Easy fix with a heat gun and my car... just apply heat to the inner fender liner and leverage from a 2x4 until clearance is just right :cool:

a0869b9a-5201-4a5e-8815-35f738b3d47e-jpeg.376320
 
Unlikely. Without a spacer, turn your wheels and look at the clearance... it's very close with no spacer.

I would think some enterprising vendor would create an "anti-rubbing inner fender" for sale. A quick visual inspection gives me the impression that isn't a big piece of plastic. It looks like it comes out "easy" and could be easily replaced. It doesn't appear to have significant purpose aside from cooling ducts for the brakes.

I actually ended up ordering 8mm spacers from motorsport tech, lets see what happens. Ive been just letting it rub thinking that eventually it will rub itself a little concave section of the fender lining.. but so far it hasn't happened.
 
I used a heat gun and a piece of 2" PVC with a cap on it. It gave a nice smooth, curved, surface to push against the inner fender. Surprisingly, it didn't seem to help much. There's now a slightly concave area, but it still rubs. My next effort is to investigate how to pull that inner fender piece out and modify it on the bench.